Dedicated Grainfather Guide, Problems and Solutions Thread

[Exile]

My grainfather has a sight glass now

 

[kaiserben]

Today I finally got around to replacing parts with the upgrade kit (pipework etc)

So to those who had the old Grainfather, what is better:

The old or new filter?
Keep or remove ball and spring?

 

[Mattrox]

Today I finally got around to replacing parts with the upgrade kit (pipework etc)

So to those who had the old Grainfather, what is better:

The old or new filter?
Keep or remove ball and spring?

Remove ball spring, unless you are prone to removing bits with the pump on.

I only have the new filter. Haven't had problems.

 

[Beppe]

Hello guys i'm finding that my beers with granfaither are cloudy and do not understand where i'm wrong,first cooled cooked must with immersion coil and hai ad no problem now with counter flow supplied to the pot always clodi beer,al control ph always,use for yeast nutrients,it aslo happens to you?I can not understand the problem

 

[Killer Brew]

I'm trying to think if I need this upgrade or not. Staying close to my brew to adjust temps at different stages doesn't bother me, I feel like it is part of the process. Is that the only advantage I would get?

 

[Coodgee]

I think the upgrade will be worth it for me. I didn't think so initially. But refining and automating some of the steps, as well as prompting me to not forget things like the whirlfloc should result in a more consistent product

 

[A.B.]

I have to monitor mine the whole way, except for the boil, so the hands off ideas that the new controller provides doesn't grab me

 

[HBHB]

Hello guys i'm finding that my beers with granfaither are cloudy and do not understand where i'm wrong,first cooled cooked must with immersion coil and hai ad no problem now with counter flow supplied to the pot always clodi beer,al control ph always,use for yeast nutrients,it aslo happens to you?I can not understand the problem

Start with looking at the recipe formulation on what malts are used, how they are milled. - if too fine, then the grain bed may be overly compacted and all wort is running through the overflow pipe without getting good filtration.
couple of points to start with.

I'm trying to think if I need this upgrade or not. Staying close to my brew to adjust temps at different stages doesn't bother me, I feel like it is part of the process. Is that the only advantage I would get?

Sorry KB, I try to avoid bumping our threads on the sponsors pages as much as possible.

Thanks Brad for moving this to here.

The new controller has Bluetooth interaction with your smart phone or tablet etc, so you can be away from the brew and still see what's going on. preprogramming step mashes and the use of PID algorithm means step mashing is more reliable allowing for overshoot etc. App works with any beer design program running export capability in beer.xml format, so Beersmith etc all work with it. App runs alarms and timers as well as a sparge water counter etc so you can be ready to brew before the first coffee of the day is made. or be ready to brew when you arrive home from work etc. (personally, I like waking up to the clatter of Karen making a beer out in the bar area, so this may be a disadvantage in our household)

There's lots to be said for the new controller, it's just a matter of guys/girls deciding whether they want that level of functionality. Maybe not for some folk, but think it'll have a wide appeal.

Hope that helps.
Martin

 

[welly2]

Hello guys i'm finding that my beers with granfaither are cloudy and do not understand where i'm wrong,first cooled cooked must with immersion coil and hai ad no problem now with counter flow supplied to the pot always clodi beer,al control ph always,use for yeast nutrients,it aslo happens to you?I can not understand the problem

This comment reads like you were getting drunker and drunker by the second.

 

[Chridech]

This comment reads like you were getting drunker and drunker by the second.

Google translator of its face again!

 

[welly2]

Just installed my STC-1000 with the flashed firmware into my Grainfather. It took a little bit of pissing about and I'm not entirely sure if it's quite set up properly but I'll do a test later. You've got to set it to Mash for it to run and leave the heating element set to Normal rather than Mash. I'm still figuring out how it works but I'm getting there. I'll make a video on how it works for those who are thinking about getting one.

I bought a pre-flashed and set up STC-1000 from a guy off eBay. Nice fella, easy to deal with. Cost me $55 and comes with an Arduino which you can use to flash the STC-1000. Actually programming it on the device itself rather than using the editor (http://matsstaff.github.io/stc1000p/profile/hextabbed.html) is not really that tricky. I'm planning on using this for a while before I upgrade to the new Grainfather controller - I want to see it in use on other people's Grainfather before I decide if it's worth the upgrade (I'm sure it is) and then I'll probably reflash this to use as a fermentation fridge controller for stepped timings.

 

[kaiserben]

Just installed my STC-1000 with the flashed firmware into my Grainfather. ...

I've been using one (that I flashed myself) for quite a while now, and it's great. I doubt I'll spend the $200 to buy the new GF controller. It'd be nice to have the bluetooth connectivity with my phone, but that won't improve my beer. It's very easy to program multiple steps and alarms using the STC1000+. (it only takes me a minute or so before each brew).

If I hadn't done this upgrade to flashed STC1000 then I'd definitely be getting the new GF controller.

 

[welly2]

I've been using one (that I flashed myself) for quite a while now, and it's great. I doubt I'll spend the $200 to buy the new GF controller. It'd be nice to have the bluetooth connectivity with my phone, but that won't improve my beer. It's very easy to program multiple steps and alarms using the STC1000+. (it only takes me a minute or so before each brew).

If I hadn't done this upgrade to flashed STC1000 then I'd definitely be getting the new GF controller.

I'm sure I'll figure it out properly but there's a few things that I'm finding a bit confusing. So what I can see to get the thing to run is you click on S, go to Run and then select Pr and press S. If you then press the power button, that seems to get the actual program starting. Is this correct or have I missed anything?

Could you possibly go over the steps you take to set a program and get it going?

Cheers!

 

[kaiserben]

Yeah - once you've programmed it how you want it, you go to "run" and select "Pr" to run what you've programmed.

Most of the parameters won't need to be changed, or won't need to be changed after you set it up the first time.

Setting it up first time you click on "S" and then use the arrows to cycle through the menu items.

Menu item
Sd = Strike delay (set to zero, unless you want set it up to start heating later on - up to 999 mins later on).
St = Strike temp (the temp you want the water to be when you add your grains)
SO = Strike output (this is how often your element stays on as a percentage. Leave at 100)
Pt1 = Mash Step 1 temp
Pd1 = Mash step 1 duration
Pt2
Pd2
Pt3
Pd3
Pt4
Pd4
Pt5
Pd5
Pt6
Pd6
PO = Mashing output (% of how often your element is on), which I've set at 25.
Ht = Hot Break Temp (97)
HO = Hot Break Output (60)
Hd = Hotbreak Duration (10)
bO = Boil Output (100)
bd = Boil duration
hd1 = Hop alarm 1
hd2
hd3
hd4
tc = temperature correction (pretty sure this is for if your probe is slightly out)
APF = Set this to 511 so that all the alarms are enabled.
PF = This is for pump control (which is not something you need to worry about with a simple STC1000+ flash set up. Leave as 31.
Pd = Heating period interval. I've set this to 5 (seconds) and am happy with that. This is how often the element switches on/off when the output is at anything other than 100%.
cO = Manual mode output (80). Never use it.
cP = Manual mode pump (0).
cSP = Manual mode thermostat setpoint (0).
ASd = Safety shutdown timer (number of minutes before it switches itself off if you've failed to acknowledge an alarm or other step requiring your attention). 100 is good.
rUn = select Pr when you want to start what you've programmed.

 

[kaiserben]

And once you've set it up that first time, all you really need to change from brew to brew are:

I'll occasionally change my strike water temperature (St) depending on the first mash step temp in my recipe.

Then change my mash step temps and times:

Pt1
Pd1
Pt2
Pd2
Pt3
Pd3
Pt4
Pd4
Pt5
Pd5
Pt6
Pd6

and boil/hop alarm settings.

bd = boil duration (I change between 60 and 90 minute boils depending on recipe)
and your hop alarms - depending on what minute additions my recipes have. I also use one of these for whirfloc addition (if I don't already have a hop addition at the same time).
hd1
hd2
hd3
hd4

And if you find you don't need as many steps as are available, just set the duration to zero.

And that's it. It's much easier than these long explanations make it look.

 

[welly2]

Great stuff, thanks very much!

 

[paulyman]

Anyone else had issues with getting to the boil? I've noticed in the last few brews that it takes well over an hour to rise from the 90 that it gets to during the sparge and a rolling boil! I'm sure It hasn't taken that long in the past. Once it's there it's fine and I get the same boil off rate as I always have.

 

[HBHB]

Not sure i'm getting that right Paulyman....90 at end of sparge? then > than an hr to the boil? couple of things, if you're using a cheap arse light weight power cord then you might not have full power capability. Also, If you've got a sparky mate, get him to look at the power supply to see if you're getting full power to the unit. Got to be something wrong to get those ramp times. Look at the simplest ones to fix first.

 

[kaiserben]

Speaking of simple ... There's a chance (and I've done this before, but don't judge me h34r: ) that he's accidentally flicked the 'element variation' switch near the base of the unit so that it's on 'mash' instead of 'normal'. Or forgotten to flick it. Or something like that.

 

[paulyman]

Sorry I should have said it gets to 90 after the sparge but while the basket is still draining. But yeah the last few times it takes an hour to get to the boil from 90. I make sure the Variation switch is on normal, give the bottom a good careful clean with the mash paddle to remove any crud from over the element. I am getting my sparky to put a seperate circuit outside under the carport for my brewing maybe that will help as You said Martin as I won't need a long extension lead.