Dedicated Grainfather Guide, Problems and Solutions Thread

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Coodgee said:
Going to pick up my grainfather tomorrow. I'm thinking of doing a recipe based on the 'sticks and stones' one from the recipe database as my first brew with the new rig.

So if there was one word of advise you could give for a first time grainfather user what would it be?
Kinda depends where you're coming from. If like me you were doing BIAB with no sparge, and you're planning to sparge with your GF, then my advice would be make sure you start the sparge as soon as you lift the malt pipe! Not that I've done it myself yet, but if it works out it'll be the best advice I've been given in a while.
 
carniebrew said:
Kinda depends where you're coming from. If like me you were doing BIAB with no sparge, and you're planning to sparge with your GF, then my advice would be make sure you start the sparge as soon as you lift the malt pipe! Not that I've done it myself yet, but if it works out it'll be the best advice I've been given in a while.
I've had a break from brewing for a long time but I've done plenty of 3V brews back in the day. I also read that advise to begin sparging as soon as you lift the grain out of the water so I will definitely look to do that. I don't want to be standing there with a jug for half an hour while the water trickles through.

tugger said:
ok. I have a couple of hop bags, do you think it would ok to just throw them into the boil and then fish them out before chilling?
 
Coodgee said:
ok. I have a couple of hop bags, do you think it would ok to just throw them into the boil and then fish them out before chilling?
I was using a hop sock pegged (literally) to the top of the kettle, but just bought a KK hop spider which will just hang over the side now.
 
Coodgee said:
Going to pick up my grainfather tomorrow. I'm thinking of doing a recipe based on the 'sticks and stones' one from the recipe database as my first brew with the new rig.

So if there was one word of advise you could give for a first time grainfather user what would it be?
Oh and little things like remember to switch the element to "Mash" once you reach your mash temp, and back to Boil after mash out.

Make sure you tighten ALL the connections on your counter flow chiller regularly, too many reports (and personal experience) of hoses flying off at the worst moments.

And make sure your bottom plate for the malt pipe is flat, mine turned up pretty skewiff and I got a fair bit of grain in my first couple of brews. After spending some time bending it into as flat a shape as possible I've had no issues.
 
Coodgee said:
ok. I have a couple of hop bags, do you think it would ok to just throw them into the boil and then fish them out before chilling?
Yes. But why not peg them onto the side of the GF?
 
seems like it would get better hop utilization to have them rolling around in the boil. (based on 0 actual knowledge haha).
 
You can have the hops roll around free if you want, but I think the difference between being bagged or spidered would be extremely minimal at best, if non completely non existent.
 
slcmorro said:
You can have the hops roll around free if you want, but I think the difference between being bagged or spidered would be extremely minimal at best, if non completely non existent.
Everybody knows that spidered hops have a lower sperm count. :unsure:
 
Coodgee said:
so what is the advantage of the spider? not having to fish around for the hop bag at the end of the boil?
Have you ever cleaned a hop sock? Bloody PITA compared to a metal hop spider which you can pretty much just spray rinse. Otherwise not much. You could use a BIAB bag for a hop sock if it was just a space issue.
 
spider v sock -
you're not untying and tying bits with a spider. you turn the garden hose on it when you're done, and it's clean. you can throw 2, 3 or even 16 hop adds straight into the thing without having to bag them up, knot them down and fish them out later. at 200 - 300 microns spider mesh, bugger all hops escapes into the wort, as opposed to any sock i've used. a stainless steel spider is sub $30, and lasts, as opposed to socks which cost about $5 each. if you do 3 hop additions, that's $15 worth of socks that you have to individually load and then clean. and mine always seem to deteriorate at a rate of knots. nah - give me a spider. like going from a copper and stick to a fully automated washing machine. ultimately, though, sock, spider or loose, the hops are still rolling around in the boil. it's just a case of whether or not they're confined to one pocket of the boil environment. bit like a teabag, or loose.

throwing hops straight into the boil in a gf, my experience (and general, from what i can gather) is that the gf filter ain't built for it, (in spite of the demonstration on the youtube videos) so you're going to wind up with a lot of green gunk choking your retriculation system. may be harmless, but if you've got a new gf, it's a bit disturbing when you hear your pump gasping for air. the filter is good for grain and that very modest amount of hops that might escape from a spider, but the whole design is probably not meant to have a flock of hops rampaging around on the loose. better to round 'em up and keep 'em in a paddock. not to mention that they then wind up in your fantastic wort chiller, potentially making it smell like, well, like carniebrew's hopsock boxer things. and we don't wanna drink THAT.

for a one word piece of advice - you'll get a little bottle cap to put on the top of your retriculation pipe to stop grain falling into the pipe as you introduce grain to wort. throw it out. get a chunk of alfoil and wrap that over instead. that does the job perfickly. use the cap and you'll keep bumping it off, then fishing for it in ever hotter wort and greater grain mass.

oh - ps.. i note you're in greenslopes - craftbrewer at capalaba has spiders sub $30. not advertised on their website for some reason, but i got mine after spotting them in the shop one day. (i shop between them and the guys at annerley - i find craftbrewer good for grains and annerley good for everything else)

the other thing is - i'd think about beersmith software - or similar, if only to measure hops input. my first few brews were a bit hit and miss - bland or hopped out. my more recent are just hop balanced stunners. the downside with all this is that i notice that the brews are way green and unbalanced for about 3-4 weeks, so there is a certain amount of tapping the clock and gazing at the calendar before they show their true colours. but man, it's worth it.
but yeah - probably none of us are masters at gf yet - for mine - i just get better each brew on it. there is a learning curve, but it's already consistently churning out the best brews i've done. so enjoy and keep us posted, especially with any discoveries. cheers :icon_chickcheers:
 
butisitart said:
for a one word piece of advice - you'll get a little bottle cap to put on the top of your retriculation pipe to stop grain falling into the pipe as you introduce grain to wort. throw it out. get a chunk of alfoil and wrap that over instead. that does the job perfickly. use the cap and you'll keep bumping it off, then fishing for it in ever hotter wort and greater grain mass.
FYI - National Homebrew (no affiliation, just happy with the service!) sells their GFs with some handy little free of charge add-ons including a Perlick tap cover, which sits perfectly snug over the wort return pipe in the malt pipe.
 
slcmorro said:
FYI - National Homebrew (no affiliation, just happy with the service!) sells their GFs with some handy little free of charge add-ons including a Perlick tap cover, which sits perfectly snug over the wort return pipe in the malt pipe.
New/Current version has a drop in metal pipe blocker that does a good job, so the tap covers aren't required any more.
 
Does anyone know where I can buy an overflow attachment, the top piece that locks the plate in.
Would prefer somewhere in Sydney.
 
might have to go direct to gf for an overflow, and they'd be able to tell you if sydney has any. there's also a list of suppliers on their website. neither of my 2 local gf dealers have got spare parts yet. (i not in sydney, but you may be in for a long hunt if you go down that road)
how did you manage to lose that?? throwing the top sliding stem of the reticulation pipe out with the mash grain seems to be the popular way of stuffing up what otherwise would be a perfectly good day. which reminds me. i need to go and scientifically examine another munich dunkels.
It's my life calling, and i tend to it purely for the beneficial furtherment of humanity. :chug:
 
carniebrew said:
Cheers for the detailed info, will definitely give it a go next brew. I'm keen to change only 1 thing at a time to see which has the biggest effect...so next brew I'll do the insta-sparge after lifting the malt pipe...then after that I'll increase my roller width to 1.3mm (mashmaster mini mill). I've also been told the speed of my drill could be making a big difference to how my grain ends up...I've been doing full bore, so at some stage will back the speed off and see how it goes.
Full bore is great for BIAB, but at high speeds you will have less chance of keeping your husks fully intact decreasing the porosity of your grain bed.
 
butisitart said:
might have to go direct to gf for an overflow, and they'd be able to tell you if sydney has any. there's also a list of suppliers on their website. neither of my 2 local gf dealers have got spare parts yet. (i not in sydney, but you may be in for a long hunt if you go down that road)
how did you manage to lose that?? throwing the top sliding stem of the reticulation pipe out with the mash grain seems to be the popular way of stuffing up what otherwise would be a perfectly good day. which reminds me. i need to go and scientifically examine another munich dunkels.
It's my life calling, and i tend to it purely for the beneficial furtherment of humanity. :chug:
Yes I tossed it in the green waste bin never to be seen again.
 
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