Danstar BRY-97?

[carniebrew]

Any new yeast will only be able to eat any fermentables left in the wort. i.e. you could pitch 2 packs on 23 litres, or you could pitch 5 packs on 23 litres, and they would likely end up with the same final gravity. The taste may differ due to the by-products produced by yeast that have been over-pitched, but it won't affect gravity (i.e. dryness).

I suggest you do a forced ferment test on your wort. Take a ~250ml sample into a jar (make sure everything is sanitary as per usual, you don't want infection to mess the results here), keep it somewhere warm and shake the crap out of it as often as you can. After 24 hours of this, check the gravity of this sample. If it hasn't changed, then there's no fermentables left in the wort. If the gravity has dropped, then you need to either rouse the existing yeast in your main fermenter, or add more yeast.

 

[DeGarre]

Bought two of these babies for my single hop Citra and Chinook. Thanks for all the info.

 

[MichaelM]

Tried the west coast ale yeast this weekend. My brew buddy used Safale us5 in the same recipe and his fermenter started bubbling within 6 hrs. My fermenter started bubbling somewhere between 30 and 36 hrs later. Was worried that there was a problem but all is good now. I am sure the taste will be worth the wait.

 

[Bribie G]

I just pitched two sachets into a double batch of American Cream Ale, and of course I rehydrated in tepid water (as posted by Warra48, pitching dry into wort will waste around half of your purchase due to cell wall rupture when rehydrated in a sugary solution).

Sitting on 17.

 

[Lord Raja Goomba I]

Found that you need to rehydrate this, if you don't want to panic. It does nothing for a day or two (more if not rehydrated), then BAM! Tries to climb out of the fermenter.

Does mute hop aroma, and for an APA/AIPA, I still prefer US05 and am happy to wait the extra time at the end to drop out.

If you're kegging, CC will pretty much do the job anyway, and won't extend the time period.

BRY97 - more estery, though not in the British fashion.

 

[paulmclaren11]

Should have followed Carnie's advice... pitched another pack of Saf Ale 05 on my batch on Friday to see if I could get it down from 1020 - hasn't budged an inch.

Followed this schedule with my Braumeister for it's first use:

5 mins @ 52c
60 mins @ 67c
10 mins @ 78

Going to have to test the temps of the BM next time I use it. I have 2 more brews cubed hope they don't suffer the same fate in not being fermentable.. will be using Saf Ale for these to see.

 

[Liam_snorkel]

Where did you get that mash schedule?

 

[paulmclaren11]

I sort of made it up to play around with it. Was just going to go for my normal 60 mins @ 66-67....

 

[mje1980]

Add a low 60's step for 20 mins, it will help with attenuation. I always add a 62c rest for all beers, even uk ales. For the uk ales though I make it short, and add a longer low70's rest for dextrins and head.

 

[paulmclaren11]

Cheers for the tip, will need to do more research on stepped mashes and what works best for the yeasties...

What I have (accidently) made is a full bodied mid strength (wife will be happy) - it still tastes fine, enough bitterness there and the fruitiness is only subtle.

Gonna dry hop and keg this weekend.

All learning!

 

[tavas]

Should have followed Carnie's advice... pitched another pack of Saf Ale 05 on my batch on Friday to see if I could get it down from 1020 - hasn't budged an inch.

Followed this schedule with my Braumeister for it's first use:

5 mins @ 52c
60 mins @ 67c
10 mins @ 78

Going to have to test the temps of the BM next time I use it. I have 2 more brews cubed hope they don't suffer the same fate in not being fermentable.. will be using Saf Ale for these to see.

Just make sure you didn't end up with 52*c for 60 mins and 67*C for 10mins. I got mine around the wrong way (BM puts time first then temp) and ended up with a stout at 1.020.

 

[paulmclaren11]

Yeah I need to check a few variables next time (eg, owner programming error :huh:, BM temps are accurate).

Cheers.

 

[Mr. No-Tip]

Those who've seen long lag times, did you see airlock/blowoff activity during the lag? Ever take a hydro reading?

I've used this yeast four or five times and never seen more than a 24 hour lag. At about 45 hours now and still no visible sign. No blowoff activity either. It may have dropped a point, but it could be an off reading either on brew day or now.

Not too worried after reading this thread, but it's certainly a different experienced this time. The only difference to my normal procedure was a warmer rehydration - close to 35.

 

[Mr. No-Tip]

Just to give further wait to what was already a pretty established suggestion in this thread....this one can be slow.

12...24....40 hours. Nothing, no drop in grav or activity despite oxygenation and rehydration.
48 hours. No visible activity but a very healthy blow off tube.
52 hours. The lid looks like an nightclub toiletbowl at 3am on a Sunday morning.

While this matches up with other expereinces here, it doesn't match up with my previous experiences using this yeast. As much as one can at home, these brewed under similar conditions. The two variables to my mind are either the way it reacts to wort composition or factory variation in the yeast itself. This slow beer was a very turbid lambic base, whereas the fast starters were standard 'gateway' pales.

 

[MichaelM]

Mine started fermenting around 36 hrs after pitching and took a week to complete fermentation. OG was 1.045. Safale definitely gets the job done faster in my experience.

 

[billygoat]

Pitched one packet into 22L of 1.053 wort. Temperature set to 18C. This is a recipe I have made on 3 other occasions using US05.
After 24 hours there were bubbles forming on the top of the wort. After 36 hours there was a krausen of about 25mm thick.
After 48 hours the krausen was 75mm thick.
After 72 hours the krausen was around 125mm thick which seemed to be its peak.
After 5 days the gravity was 1.018.
Didn't pay much attention until day 9 and the gravity was 1.009. Set temperature to 1C for a week and kegged yesterday. Very clear going into the keg.
Compared to US05 - the BRY-97 starts slower, the krausen is much thicker than I have experienced with US05. With US05 I usually lift the temperature from 18C to 20C for the last 2 days of fermentation which usually knocks off a couple of gravity points, didn't need to do this with BRY-97.
When I have done this particular recipe with US05, it has attenuated to the same degree as it has this time, except all visible signs showed it started slower but got to FG a bit quicker with BRY-97.
Won't know what the taste is like for a week or so, will report back then.

 

[Spiesy]

Pitched one packet into 22L of 1.053 wort. Temperature set to 18C. This is a recipe I have made on 3 other occasions using US05.
Compared to US05 - the BRY-97 starts slower, the krausen is much thicker than I have experienced with US05. With US05 I usually lift the temperature from 18C to 20C for the last 2 days of fermentation which usually knocks off a couple of gravity points, didn't need to do this with BRY-97.

To be fair you should have hydrated and pitched 2 x packs of BRY-97 for that brew, as per the manufacturers recommendations.

 

[billygoat]

To be fair you should have hydrated and pitched 2 x packs of BRY-97 for that brew, as per the manufacturers recommendations.

Thats right, and I also should do the same with the US05. With the recipe that I used, I have only pitched 1 packet of rehydrated US05 previously and the results have been good. There were two reasons I only used one pack of BRY-97. One reason was to do a comparison with US05 and the other reason was I only had one pack of BRY-97.

 

[Bribie G]

I'm currently fermenting with BRY-97 for the first time, it's a double brew so I used two packs rehydrated.
It kicked off within 24 hours but after a week at 17 degrees there was still a huge frothy krausen. I raised the temp to 20 for the last few days, krausen still there on day 10.

I've found that before with Chico yeasts, they often seem to behave as a true old school top cropper and rise to the top during fermentation. I note that when I swirl the current brew by rocking the FV, you can see "yeast soup" vortexing down from the top of the liquid and re-mixing with the body of the brew.

When the brew has finally attenuated I find that with these yeasts a good strategy is to CC at -1 degrees for three or four days, and the head finally vanishes.

 

[Ross]

Should have followed Carnie's advice... pitched another pack of Saf Ale 05 on my batch on Friday to see if I could get it down from 1020 - hasn't budged an inch.

Followed this schedule with my Braumeister for it's first use:

5 mins @ 52c
60 mins @ 67c
10 mins @ 78

Going to have to test the temps of the BM next time I use it. I have 2 more brews cubed hope they don't suffer the same fate in not being fermentable.. will be using Saf Ale for these to see.

67C is not going to give you that fermentable a wort - try dropping to 65c.


Cheers Ross