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Danstar BRY-97?

Discussion in 'Yeast' started by Ivonavich, 29/3/13.

 

  1. paulmclaren11

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    Posted 13/1/14
    Thanks Ross.

    I have brewed most of my pales at 66-67c and never had an issue with attenuation (this is when I was BIABing).

    As I said this was the first time using my Braumeister and perhaps my candy thermo isn't as accurate as I once thought when I was BIABing so I will drop the mash temp for sure as you suggest.

    I have a couple more packets of this yeast so will pitch 1g/ltr as suggested and give it another shot.

    The beer is kegged and carbing as we speak - it has actually turned out to be a nice hoppy full bodied mid strength APA so no real complaints about the yeast (more brewers error!).
     
  2. Bribie G

    Adjunct Professor

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    Posted 21/1/14
    And fifteen days later:

    Cream ale.jpg

    No finings, only about 4 days cc. Third day in keg.

    This is definitely one of the best Cream Ale / Blonde ales I've ever done, clean, low IBUs but the hops just stay with you during the finish. This is almost as good as my best lagers, if they had euro hops. (I used a wee touch of Chinook).

    And..... it's a partial :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:

    I'm definitely sold on this yeast, it reminds me very much of those fast clean Wyeasts like San Diego Superyeast or Pacman.
     
    1 person likes this.
  3. carniebrew

    Brewvy baby, brewvy!

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    Posted 21/1/14
    Sorry to quote myself, but I wanted to follow up on this. I bottled my IPA done with BRY-97 on Nov 3 (no crash chill), and was saying in late Dec that it was still a bit yeasty. Well I drank the last dozen or so of this batch while on holidays the last couple of weeks (with some help), and noticed the yeasty taste was completely gone. So it may have just taken a good few months for it to fully drop out in the bottle. Or perhaps it just took a while for my IPA to come good....or both?

    As I said though I'll crash chill from now on with this yeast, hopefully that'll help it come good more quickly.
     
  4. jyo

    No Chillin' Like a Villain.

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    Posted 21/1/14
    To update on mine-

    The first keg cube (fermented at 19-20') is still tasting yeasty and generally very disappointing.
    The second cube (fermented at 17') is tasting great. I haven't really noticed any difference in flocculation when comparing this to US05.
    I will give it another run at 16-17' and see how I go as this temp seems to be a sweet spot.
     
  5. Bribie G

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    Posted 21/1/14
    CB, I've found that crash chill is handy with a lot of these "chico" yeasts. That's tied in with why I stopped using US-05 in frustration and tried a full gamut of family members such as Wyeast 1056 and so on, but (like the BRY-97) at the end of primary they all seem to have this characteristic of hanging around like a bad smell, particularly US-05, with a scummy little head that won't go away.

    The BRY kept throwing up a big spongy head after daily swirling (after about the fifth day). In some ways it acts not unlike an old fashioned Yorkshire yeast, floating up to the surface as a mat after attenuation. When the BRY had subsided to the scummy little head I unleashed the mini-lagering on it -1°C for 4 days and as usual it waved the white flag and flocced beautifully to a surprisingly clear and clean beer.

    Current brightness - no finings uses - is more like what I would expect from a beer after two weeks in the keg, never mind two days.

    cream ale 2.jpg
     
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  6. malt_shovel

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    Posted 21/1/14
    Man I am envious of the results other are getting with this yeast. For some reason I am struggling to get it to floc out and attenuate fully. I put it down to my particular sachets were poorly handled before I got them but others in WA seem to be getting good results. I think I will wave the white flag and go back to US-05 for now. I am building up some dark lager and RIS stocks for winter time anyways so will revisit when done with those.
     
  7. paulmclaren11

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    Posted 22/1/14
    I got mine in WA too from a reputable retailer - got them via post though.

    When mine stalled at 1020 (only pitched 1 packet) I questioned my mash temp which was 67c and whether my Braumeister was accurate. I have a Bright Ale clone mashed at 66c in the BM fermenting now with Saf 05 and it's down to 1010 no worries in 7 days.

    Perhaps there are some suss packets floating around in Perth... next time I will pitch 2 packets (as I have some left) but I have never had a brew stall so high mashing at 67c (and I have verified the temps are correct).
     
  8. carniebrew

    Brewvy baby, brewvy!

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    Posted 22/1/14
    But Paul, didn't you say previously that you pitched a packet of us-05 onto the BRY-97 beer that stalled at 1.020, and it didn't drop any further? If that's the case then it wasn't the BRY causing your high final gravity issue.

    On the subject, I'm not sure a dodgy packet of dry yeast would necessarily cause stalling at a high gravity....even a significantly under-pitched beer should still ferment out, it might just take a while, and possibly produce some off flavours from the stress the yeast is under?
     
  9. verysupple

    Supremely mediocre brewer

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    Posted 23/1/14
    It depends how he pitched the US-05. Apparently the yeast needs to be metabolically active when pitching into something that already has an appreciable amount of alcohol in it. Inactive yeast apparently just say, "Nope, we aint touchin' that." if pitched into alcoholic solutions. But if they're already active they say, "Yeah, alright. We may as well finish this job while we're at it.". So sprinkling or even rehydrating won't cut it. You need to get them munching on some sugar first.

    Of course, this still doesn't mean the BRY-97 failed. It may be that 1.020 really is the limit of attenuation. Who knows?
     
  10. paulmclaren11

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    Posted 23/1/14
    Yeah I dumped a packet of Saf Ale straight onto the wort sitting @ 1020 - no rehydrating.
     
  11. manticle

    Standing up for the Aussie Bottler

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    Posted 23/1/14
    As very supple says - try making an active starter first. Not normally necessary with dry yeast but for stalled ferments it is a good thing.
     
  12. carniebrew

    Brewvy baby, brewvy!

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    Posted 23/1/14
    I wouldn't waste my yeast without doing a forced ferment test first though. You want to know there's still some fermentables left into the wort before throwing more yeast at it.
     
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  13. verysupple

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    Posted 2/6/14
    Another thread got me thinking about BRY-97 again, and how it seems to behave a bit differently to other clean American style ale yeasts. I have a new theory about why there are so many reported cases of extended lag times. Is it possible that it actually starts fermenting well before it forms a krausen? I came up with this idea because once it does form a krausen it seems to reach FG very quickly. So maybe half the work is done before the krausen? I never take gravity readings until I think it's about done, and my FV lid doesn't seal properly any more so the airlock doesn't bubble unless a batch is in full swing. So I can't tell if it's producing CO2 before the krausen forms.

    Have people who use glad wrap or who have good seals and bubbling airlocks noticed if CO2 is produced (and therefore fermenation has started) before the krausen forms or other visual signs of fermentation?
     
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  14. jkhlt1210

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    Posted 9/6/14
    Big fan here! Definitely slow starter but hammered after two days of nothing!
     
  15. Gavo

    Dogwood Brews

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    Posted 9/6/14
    I reckon it could do this. I have a fermenter with BRY97 ATM, it seemed like a slow start however I could see that the break material was sitting at the top of the fermenter which I find is the result of the yeast working and creating enough CO2 to float the break material and atached yeast.

    Know what you mean by the fluffy top BribyG mine is just the same ATM and reckon I will have to crash chill just to get it to drop.
     
  16. Milk-lizard84

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    Posted 30/6/14
    Hey guys just a quick question in regards to this yeast. I made a partial rye pale ale and it finished quite high. Og was 1.048 but finished at 1.018. I used the 1g per litre recommended for this yeast. I tried to ferment it in the house while my fermentation fridge was being used so it sat at about 16 to 17 degress most of the time.
    I did rehydrate my yeast and seemed to start quite well but seemed to fizzle out. Tried agitation to the wort and more heat when my fridge was free but it won't seem to budge past 1.018. Will this be safe to bottle?
    Haven't had anything finish this high before
     
  17. Lord Raja Goomba I

    Prisoner of Sobriety

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    Posted 30/6/14
    What temp did you mash partial grains at?
     
  18. Milk-lizard84

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    Posted 30/6/14
    It was about 65 from memory
     
  19. manticle

    Standing up for the Aussie Bottler

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    Posted 30/6/14
    What else was in the recipe? Are you measuring gravity with a hydrometer or refractometer? What temp, how consistently and how long for fermentation? I know you said mostly 16-17 but how long and did it swing much?
    Don't bottle anything till you know it's done.
    How long stalled at 1018?
     
  20. Milk-lizard84

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    Posted 30/6/14
    Yeah I was measuring with a hydrometer. I guess the temp did fluctuate abit due not being controlled and its been in fermenting for about 2 weeks. It just had a kilo of grain, 1 can of coopers pale ale and I kilo.of ldm. Hope that helps.
     

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