Brewtech SS fermenting vessels discussion thread

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Got a reply back from Prochem. The 3 piece ball valve is $27 .. not too bad at all, but $25 freight :unsure:
As a one off purchase I'll probably buy one for peace of mind.

[SIZE=11pt] [/SIZE]
[SIZE=11pt]Thanks for your enquiry. Prochem do not have specific distributors or re-sellers, but you are welcome to buy these direct from us.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=11pt]I can offer the valve per below. Pick up is OK or I have include a freight charge, just keep in mind we have a minimum order value of $100.00 for cash sale customers.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=11pt] [/SIZE]
[SIZE=11pt]Any questions about this just let me know.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=11pt] [/SIZE]
[SIZE=11pt]P/N: VFB13010NGA[/SIZE]
[SIZE=11pt]10NPT 3-PIECE FULL BORE BALL VALVE 1000WOG GRTFE SEAL CF8M[/SIZE]
[SIZE=11pt]$27.00EA – EXSTOCK[/SIZE]
[SIZE=11pt] [/SIZE]
[SIZE=11pt]FREIGHT $25.00 [/SIZE]
[SIZE=11pt] [/SIZE]
[SIZE=11pt]Kind regards[/SIZE]
[SIZE=11pt] [/SIZE]

[SIZE=11pt]David Kingsley[/SIZE]
[SIZE=10pt]Prochem Pipeline Products Pty Ltd[/SIZE]
[SIZE=10pt]27 Lisbon St Villawood NSW 2163[/SIZE]
[SIZE=10pt]Ph: 02 9727 0044[/SIZE]
[SIZE=10pt]Fax: 02 9728 6766[/SIZE]
[SIZE=10pt]Email: [email protected][/SIZE]
[SIZE=10pt]Web: www.prochem.com.au[/SIZE]
 
dave doran said:
Cheers Jord.
Don't go to too much effect. If it starts getting tricky leave it alone. I was nervous drilling a hole in mine for a thermowell.
Was no effort mate, there's nothing too complicated about them!

The barb comes out easy enough with some padded multigrips holding the body and a shifter. Then open the valve to half way and poke the blunt end of a bamboo skewer or something through the ball from the inlet side to catch the edge of the external seal and give a nudge to push it up off the ball. Then gently work it up the thread and out of the body (has a flange that mates and seals with the female thread inside the body). Turn the valve back to the closed position and the ball will drop out. Then you just need a small hook pick or a bent pin to reach in and lift up the internal seal. This comes out easy from there as it doesn't have the flange. And voila, that's all there is too it. The only tricky bit is getting that flanged seal out, and getting the ball back in afterwards takes a bit of jiggling.

2014-08-20 20.05.33.jpg
barb removed, external seal exposed with the tight mate between flange and thread

2014-08-20 20.06.52.jpg
pushing through from the back to unseat the seal

2014-08-20 20.12.14.jpg
ball will fall straight out, the flanged edge of the external seal shown removed, and the internal seal

2014-08-20 20.25.26.jpg
all broken down, minus the tap handle and stem assembly

This all literally took me two minutes, its quicker than stripping down a three piece! Care does need to be taken removing the external seal, as that flange is quite delicate and will likely strip off with excessive force, and even then I can't see it holding up very long to frequent removals. My gut tells me this won't be an issue to the function of the valve or cause any leaking, but I do not guarantee that the tap won't leak once this seal to the thread becomes damaged. This is a shame, because otherwise it is a dead simple operation, and one I personally feel is important to maintaining good sanitation in your fermenter. These things are ball valves after all, and we all know how nasty these things can get after a while!

All things considered, I intend to strip and clean mine after each fermentation, and will replace the tap one way or another should I ever run into trouble. At that time I will be happy in the knowledge that I have been eliminating this potential source of infection, and will consider it as nothing lost.
 
Thanks for that. Even Bunnings sell plain brass versions that look identical to the SS supplied one, so I'd guess they are around the place in various guises. The barb is actually a separate accessory because I'd guess in general usage the valve would often be inline in a pipe system.

If worst comes to the worst you can buy the Prochem one.
 
Keg plus about two bottles for archive. Although they hold less than the 30L Bunnings, I get around the same beer out because with a flat bottomed fermenter I seem to waste a litre when the beer gets down to trub level and even though there is a layer of clear beer it starts sucking the yeast through as well. With a conical this level is lower as the yeast is down in the cone so less wastage.

ed: for the odd brew that gets a very big krausen, to avoid a boilover through the airlock I'd guess you could go Lion Fosters and brew over gravity then dilute to "serving strength" towards the end of fermentation.
 
OK Cool I keg, so really making that size batch makes sense. I look a pics of these at least once a day... Actually, about 5 times. !!
 
What about fermenting under pressure to keep the krausen down?
 
Bribie G said:
Got a reply back from Prochem. The 3 piece ball valve is $27 .. not too bad at all, but $25 freight :unsure:
As a one off purchase I'll probably buy one for peace of mind.

[/size]
Thanks for your enquiry. Prochem do not have specific distributors or re-sellers, but you are welcome to buy these direct from us.[/size]
I can offer the valve per below. Pick up is OK or I have include a freight charge, just keep in mind we have a minimum order value of $100.00 for cash sale customers.[/size]
[/size]
Any questions about this just let me know.[/size]
[/size]
P/N: VFB13010NGA[/size]
10NPT 3-PIECE FULL BORE BALL VALVE 1000WOG GRTFE SEAL CF8M[/size]
$27.00EA – EXSTOCK[/size]
[/size]
FREIGHT $25.00 [/size]
[/size]
Kind regards[/size]
[/size]

David Kingsley[/size]
Prochem Pipeline Products Pty Ltd[/size]
27 Lisbon St Villawood NSW 2163[/size]
Ph: 02 9727 0044[/size]
Fax: 02 9728 6766[/size]
Email: [email protected][/size]
Web: www.prochem.com.au[/size]
Prob get away with it at this size but they have quoted an npt thread. Most hose tails and threaded fittings here are bsp.
 
I bought a few parts as a cash sale from Prochem in Melbourne. There was no minimum order from memory and came in under $100. It was a Saturday morning which may have made a difference. Quality fittings too but pricey as they're pressure rated.
 
Maybe an EOI on a BB? Not like we don't have enough TLA's on AHB.
 
Mine's so purdy I got a glass door fridge so i can gaze upon it's beauty at all times... I've also modified it to take butterfly valves, which wasn't particularly difficult and it's not something that changes the actual vessel.

086_zpsef5ae828.jpg


I kind of screwed up with the dimensions, so my blow off doesn't work with this fridge... hoping lids will be available so I can cut and weld mine without stress!
 
Fat ******* said:
Mine's so purdy I got a glass door fridge so i can gaze upon it's beauty at all times... I've also modified it to take butterfly valves, which wasn't particularly difficult and it's not something that changes the actual vessel.

086_zpsef5ae828.jpg


I kind of screwed up with the dimensions, so my blow off doesn't work with this fridge... hoping lids will be available so I can cut and weld mine without stress!
Wonder If the brew bucket lid would fit the chronical??
 
dave doran said:
Wonder If the brew bucket lid would fit the chronical??
Yes it does, but honestly, seeing you have such a pretty fridge, I wouldn't compromise the beauty of the domed lid just so you can fit a blow off. You say you don't need the extra height of the domed lid so why do you need a blow off then?

Just attach a sanitary filter to the bung that is supplied with the lid and you will be sweet.

sanitry-filter.jpg

EDIT: added quote
 
dave doran said:
Wonder If the brew bucket lid would fit the chronical??
Reminds me of one of those " in emergency break glass " cabinets.
Cheers..spog...
 
Jeebus FB - that is ******* awesome... :super:

Mine is passavisationing as I type.

Also, you know you posted a swear word? The sign on the fridge? Sorry....



Reported.
 
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