Brewtech SS fermenting vessels discussion thread

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mombius hibachi said:
Hi guys,

I bought a 100L SS conical from Keg King, which came with ball valves. First ferment was fine, then an infection crept in. You guessed it! Turns out it was the ball valves. Fermenting wort enters the chamber around the ball valve every time you take a sample, which I've found to be a pain in the arse to clean.
I've since bought butterfly valves and a reallly nice sprayball from glacier in the US. As every commercial brewery uses butterfly valves on their fermentors, why are companies supplying us with ball valves? Happy to be corrected here, but I think ball valves are just for flow control, thread and ball valves don't belong on fermentors...
Happpy and infection free fermenting!

Cheers
Triclover buttefly valves are also at the very top of my shopping list.

I highly recommend for anyone with a Chronical to completely pull the ball valves apart (including the actual ball and white plastic discs) as there is quite a bit of oil in there which might taint your first batch.
 
Florian you are 100% correct.
They come supplied with lovely black oil (at least mine did) around the ball.
The problem is once you open a ball valve once, the wort which is inside the ball when you twist it shut then drains into the chamber around the ball.
I found when taking a sample, the fermenting wort would build pressure and the valve would fart on opening. Potentially sending **** back into the fermentor. Not cool...
Sorry to hijack the thread, and in no way trying to criticise the fermentors build quality. Butterfly valves are not that much more expensive ($60US), and they save the heartache of pouring beer down the drain....
Just trying to save others from my mistakes....
Cheers
 
Florian said:
Triclover buttefly valves are also at the very top of my shopping list.

I highly recommend for anyone with a Chronical to completely pull the ball valves apart (including the actual ball and white plastic discs) as there is quite a bit of oil in there which might taint your first batch.
Very good and salient point. I just finished my first batch with my new stainless fermenters (not Chronicals) and obviously didn't clean the ball valves well enough. I soaked them in PBW for an hour and opened and closed the valve a few times, but it wasn't enough. Every time I took a sample I would get this horrible solvent/oil smell and taste. I almost considered tossing the batch, it was so bad, but decided to persist and think I have managed to salvage it. So I highly recommend pulling apart the ball valve prior to first use and giving it a good scrub. I found tricleanium worked well, followed by PBW.

EDIT: typo
 
Florian said:
Triclover buttefly valves are also at the very top of my shopping list.

I highly recommend for anyone with a Chronical to completely pull the ball valves apart (including the actual ball and white plastic discs) as there is quite a bit of oil in there which might taint your first batch.
Thanks Florian,
Just pulled mine apart and the smell reminded me of a mechanics workshop. I followed the instructions on the brewtech website for cleaning and obviously its just not enough.
Am due to brew this weekend and I think you saved my arse!
 
mckenry said:
I dont have one extra and I will want to take samples during the course of fermentation. I'll also be dumping trub and yeast. I want to just hook up the co2 and push out whatever I am after at the time, without opening the fermenter or sucking in air.
Sorry thought you had a spare tri clamp.... must be someone else. Will you be using a standard air lock?
 
blair said:
Sorry thought you had a spare tri clamp.... must be someone else. Will you be using a standard air lock?
Probably at first. I might use a blow off tube if things get out of control.
Still, not a big deal as I cant see a way around opening up for dry hopping. It would be nice to have two hole in the bung. One for CO2 in, and use the other for air out.
 
I grabbed an elbow and two more triclamps with cap with a 12mm barb. Thinking of making it a t piece and making the other end a CO2 barb. Thoughts?
 
Only used my brand new Brew Bucket once, and already I've got SS Brewtech envy.
Damn you high-falutin' Chronical people...
 
mckenry said:
Thanks Florian,
Just pulled mine apart and the smell reminded me of a mechanics workshop. I followed the instructions on the brewtech website for cleaning and obviously its just not enough.
Am due to brew this weekend and I think you saved my arse!
No worries mckenry, am glad that I remembered to do it myself.

IMG_20140819_130442.jpg

I'll post a few pics of what I have done so far.

After cleaning the whole unit with the recommended TSP I filled it with a Star San solution at the recommended strength. A bit of overflow helps passivating the outside as well.

IMG_20140818_142246.jpg

I brewed a batch this morning and decided to no chill straight in the fermenter, rather than in the Braumeister which I have been doing on the last few brews. The idea being that at least I can no chill away from the trub at the bottom of the BM, and any junk that might still accumulate at the bottom of the Chronical once chilled can be easily dumped out the bottom valve.

Before I transferred the wort I purged the Chronical with Co2, the hose fits neatly into the rotating racking arm which is inside the ball valve.

IMG_20140819_143256.jpg

In the above pic you can also notice that I have ditched the 90 degree elbow that comes standard and is normally attached between bottom outlet and ball valve.
I just can't see the point of beer and yeast and trub sitting in that elbow during ferment.
Once I have a triclover butterfly valve I might attach the elbow behind the valve for easier trub removal.

After purging I racked the hot wort directly through the lid port into the Chronical. The silicone hose goes all the way to the bottom to avoid oxygenation at this stage. Once the wort is chilled to ferment temp I will then oxygenate the wort before pitching.

IMG_20140819_143609.jpg

My plan was to attach one of those sanitary air filters to the bung in the lid port, but the brew shop around the corner had no idea what I was talking about and I didn't want to steal the one from my oxygen setup, so I just used 137 layers of different tissue papers and attached them with a hair band to the port. Hopefully that will let enough clean air through so my new fermenter doesn't implode before the first ferment.

IMG_20140819_144140.jpg

Once the wort is chilled I will carry the full fermenter into the garage (I have tested carrying it full with Star San and it works quite well), stick it in the fridge and push the STC-1000 probe into the thermowell.

As for fridge, I had one that I thought was suitable but of course the door shelves were in the way as usual. Rather than hacking into them I took it off completely and reattached the seal in an amateur effort with duct tape.
I could have just used the big fridge next to it but there was too much stuff in the freezer compartment which I couldn't be bothered shifting around.

IMG_20140818_114538.jpg
 
Thanks for that Florian! I like the idea you can get the CO2 line in the racking arm.

Is that hair band sanitised? :D
 
Bit more info. For anyone who does smaller batchs like myself sometimes (or anyone really) the chronical 7 bottom is around 6.5 liters give or take a couple of hundred mLs.
 
Pretty sure this eBay item number is the right butterfly valve BTW.

121350278324

Copy and paste into eBay search.
 
Bribie G said:
The 3/8" ball valve tap can't be taken apart.

The barbed tail could presumably be taken off (Guy at Bunnings showed me an almost identical tap in brass with a barbed tail that can be bought separately the the two screwed together) but that's as far as it can be dismantled.

Strikes me that this would be fine for a boiler but for a fermenter, chance of infection building up.

Bunnings can't help with a 3/8 three piece, does anyone know of a source for a 3/8" 3 piece ball valve?

edit: would it damage anything to take off any rubber o rings and boil the tap for half an hour or even pressure cook it after every use?
Did you end up changing the ball valve out Bribie or stay with the supplied valve with hose barb?
 
Elcarter (retailer) said they were available but he never got back to me.

edit: however I realise I read his post wrong and have got onto Prochem myself, awaiting their response. I pointed out to them that they might get a few repeat sales as a lot of the buckets have been imported.
 
Ok thanks.

I got a brew bucket yday and would never have thought the ball valve would have been an issue but there you go. Presuming the change over is a long term thinking thing as everyone seem really pleased with initial brews.
 
Dave and Bribie,

Are you trying to replace the factory valves due concerns over sanitation? I've just been doing a bit of light reading through the extensive BB thread over on HBT, and some of the guys there have shown that you can actually break the supplied taps down for cleaning. They also highly recommend it, with reports of trapped liquid and beery smells upon opening after only a couple of brews! :unsure:

It sounds like a pretty simple process... hold the body of the tap padded in the vice and remove the barb with a shifter. Then with the valve in the closed position, push the ball and outer seal through from the inlet side with a dowel or whatever. The internal seal sounds a bit trickier to remove, but could probably remain in place for the purposes of cleaning. There are photos provided in that thread here - http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/brew-bucket-ss-brewing-technologies-446675/index28.html, but I only received my bucket yesterday so haven't tried it myself yet. I will guinea pig it tonight and let you know how it goes if you care.
 
Picked up some TSP (tricleanium) from bunnings. 2.2kgs @ $24
 
Jord said:
Dave and Bribie,

Are you trying to replace the factory valves due concerns over sanitation? I've just been doing a bit of light reading through the extensive BB thread over on HBT, and some of the guys there have shown that you can actually break the supplied taps down for cleaning. They also highly recommend it, with reports of trapped liquid and beery smells upon opening after only a couple of brews! :unsure:

It sounds like a pretty simple process... hold the body of the tap padded in the vice and remove the barb with a shifter. Then with the valve in the closed position, push the ball and outer seal through from the inlet side with a dowel or whatever. The internal seal sounds a bit trickier to remove, but could probably remain in place for the purposes of cleaning. There are photos provided in that thread here - http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/brew-bucket-ss-brewing-technologies-446675/index28.html, but I only received my bucket yesterday so haven't tried it myself yet. I will guinea pig it tonight and let you know how it goes if you care.
Cheers Jord.
Don't go to too much effect. If it starts getting tricky leave it alone. I was nervous drilling a hole in mine for a thermowell.
 

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