20l Stovetop All Grain Aussie Lager

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yeah ok might try to do all in the same day. Wonder how they do them AG fresh wort kits they must boil the wort after the mash I guess.

Yup - FWKs are just no-chilled cubes, they've been though the hop boil and only need to be splashed into the fermenter.
 
Where did you get the "heater" thing, and how much?

I just did my second and like the first my hands are red with all the squeezing i do to the bag!

and the liquid is not "clear" I noted, Its all thick with sediment, That's ok, yes?


the brew shop...a site sponsor
link is top right of this screen.

It cost $130.00 at the shop but is a bit more online.

I don't know how long it will last but I can say it worked great with the 19 ltr pot.

no cutting out switches or runnig out of gas to worry about...just heaps dangerous looking :)
 
I got one of these things
immersion.jpg


and did the 19 ltr pot outside.
It gets it up and boiling in about 10 mins .
wortboil.jpg

did you have anything left at the end, looks vigorous!!
 
did you have anything left at the end, looks vigorous!!


yeah ...it was virtually the same as the stove.
OG was a bit different though
stove was 1050
this was 1054

dunno if that has anything to do with it though.
 
hey,

not sure if its already been posted somewhere, but im having trouble working with Beersmith when adopting the 20L biab system (e.g. adjusting batch sizes, mash profiles etc), any tips? or is a futile effort?

thanks
 
you can add your equipment into beersmith there is a option but with this you need to put your boil volume in as well so just dont put 20lt batch size and 20lt boild size as the hop utilization will be out. Work out roughly what the boil size is (nick said his was around about 15lts from memory) but yours could be different. As for mash profiles I dont put them in but you can add it just for reference to your next batch it doesnt change the recipe at all. I got a book I write everything in so that is a log of all my brews beersmith is a tool just to work it out for me.
 
I found understanding Beersmith more difficult than making beer.

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.

EDIT: also wanna ask can you mash one day then boil the next? as I am finding it hard to find 3-4 hours in a single day to do the lot lol


You can but there is a risk that lacto bacteria will sour your wort.

If you have to (I've done it but wouldn't recommend as standard practice) then I would make sure you include a mashout step (bring wort to 76+ degrees) and cube into a no-chill container.

Over all it will take longer but sometimes splitting steps can help.
 
you can add your equipment into beersmith there is a option but with this you need to put your boil volume in as well so just dont put 20lt batch size and 20lt boild size as the hop utilization will be out. Work out roughly what the boil size is (nick said his was around about 15lts from memory) but yours could be different. As for mash profiles I dont put them in but you can add it just for reference to your next batch it doesnt change the recipe at all. I got a book I write everything in so that is a log of all my brews beersmith is a tool just to work it out for me.

yeah cheers it makes things a lot easier knowing that it doesnt impact the recipe specs

I found understanding Beersmith more difficult than making beer.

BELETED!



yeah! 1. throw grain in big container, 2. throw hot water in big container and mix everything around and let it sit for a while, 3. move liquid into another pot and boil then add flowers, 4. move to another plastic container and keep the lid open because then somehow it turns into beer
 
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hey fellas, got a confusing result from brewday yesterday:

3.2kg pilsner
0.7kg dark munich
0.3kg wheat

mash with 15L of water, then sparged with 5 for a preboil of 15L. this was the same amount of water i had for my previous batch with the same amount of grain, the only thing that was different was the mash temp was 65 this time as opposed to 60 last time.

last time preboil i had an SG of 1.065 with 60C mash
this time preboil i had an SG of 1.048 with 65C mash

and seeing as postboil i would have ~11L, diluting it would make a very light wort.


question is: why is it that the higher mash temp resulted in a lower OG? or is there something else that might have occurred? there were some doughballs that were tough to break up, perhaps more of these were around?


cheers
 
the mash temp shouldnt affect OG that I know of. Your efficiency as dropped though maybe from the dough balls. maybe there was more liquid in the pot. Was the grain cracked the same as the last time? did you do anything different? A higher mash temp will make a heavier beer. mashing at 60c must of been a light beer or was that mash out temp?
 
the mash temp shouldnt affect OG that I know of. Your efficiency as dropped though maybe from the dough balls. maybe there was more liquid in the pot. Was the grain cracked the same as the last time? did you do anything different? A higher mash temp will make a heavier beer. mashing at 60c must of been a light beer or was that mash out temp?

ok thats good to know, cheers.

yeah it wouldve been the doughballs+slightly different grain cracking.

it was difficult to break up some doughballs because i had unknowingly used 100g more grain in my recipe+ knowingly 1L more liquid than the last batch, which caused the pot to be filled to the brim, risking spillage if i had forcefully broken up the doughballs.

lesson learned:
4.2kg of grain+15L of water into a 19L stock pot=bad
4.1kg of grain+14L of water into a 19L stock pot=good

it wasnt a light beer btw, just an accidentally low mash temp because of insufficient insulation and too slow mashing the grain in. that batch actually ended up at 5.5% because of a 1.006 FG due to the low mash temp. very thin+dry though, not so happy.

cheers for that, had a taste of it from the fermenter today (day 3) and it had a nice body to it and the SG had gone down to 1.010 already, hoping it stays at that level.

if i rack and CC i can stick it there, cant i? its pretty low so its not significant to risking bottle bombs is it?
 
These are the only two things it could have been.

from experience, what has given you a greater efficiency, the average level of cracking you get from an lhbs or your flour consistency cracking?
 
from experience, what has given you a greater efficiency, the average level of cracking you get from an lhbs or your flour consistency cracking?

Flour gives a great efficiency, but not a big enough difference to account for your difference.

Also, I find that doughballs aren't there at the end of the mash. I reckon they're gone after a few minutes. It's difficult to keep water out of something dry...
 
just a quick queastion!
Im just heating up my water now to do my first stovetop AG. I have 1.5 m of Swiss Voile to put in and over my pot and i have noticed......ITS A CRAP LOAD.......of swiss Voile! Do you guys fold it in half or somthing so its 2 layers? or do you need all that extra hanging over the pot!?
Cheers!
 
just a quick queastion!
Im just heating up my water now to do my first stovetop AG. I have 1.5 m of Swiss Voile to put in and over my pot and i have noticed......ITS A CRAP LOAD.......of swiss Voile! Do you guys fold it in half or somthing so its 2 layers? or do you need all that extra hanging over the pot!?
Cheers!
I cut mine to size but still have a fair bit hanging over. It comes in handy to have extra to tie the bag up when draining. Don't double over as it won't drain as well.

Good luck mate.

Cheers

MOM
 
Trim to fit, for your next batch. I do full size batches (40L urn) and got 1.5m for my original bag that the sewing lady made for me, and she handed me back a shedload of spare voile she couldn't use. Still in a drawer, I might make keg hop bags out of it.
 
Thanks guys just putting in the grain now.
also how do you guys go about washing/cleaining your Swiss Voile after you have used it?
 
dump the majority of the grain in the compost then hit it with a hose, hang it up on the clothes line to dry fully
 

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