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yardy

BI3V
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Guys,

having a look at Jamil's walk in cooler and was wondering if anyone has built/seen/had a go at one of these ?

he claims that a 12000 btu air con kept it at temp for 4 years, seems like it was a fairly large space with a bit of gear in it.

his design is a garden shed with insulation from what i can gather, i have a few sheets of 100mm cladded styrofoam and an 18000 btu air con that maybe could be converted, like i said, anyone got any info on this setup ?

Cheers

Yard
 
Tips-

Thicker the insulation the better.

An airtight seal, such as the foil over the insulation you see in the pics.


Oh, IF YOU CAN, INSULATE THE FLOOR and SEAL it.


Question: About how often is it running in the summer to keep those temps?

Answer: It depends on how hot the day, but even on 110F days, it runs maybe 30 minutes total once or twice a day.

This seems a little unbelievable being a fridge tech myself. But I'm sure he wouldn't have anything to gain from lying.
 
Thanks OldBugman,

Yeah 3*C through mid summer is a good effort.

the sheets i have are 100mm and i would sikaflex or similar all joins.

the plan is a coolroom 2.5mtr x 2.5mtr x 2.2mtr, would marine grade ply with some sort of rubber sealant for the floor be ok ?

Cheers

Yard
 
Yardy, if you go with this project post some progressive photos as you go. I've been considering doing something like this (once wife issues are resolved <_< )
 
I'm planning to build a small coolroom(before summer) with bits and pieces I've picked up from work, so the $ outlay should be minimal. probably not walk in size, but then again I tend to get carried away.
 
Yardy, if you go with this project post some progressive photos as you go. I've been considering doing something like this (once wife issues are resolved <_< )


no problem,

just going to fix the sheets together by tek screwing with ali angle and sikaflex, the floor i think will be the biggest pita.




I'm planning to build a small coolroom(before summer) with bits and pieces I've picked up from work, so the $ outlay should be minimal. probably not walk in size, but then again I tend to get carried away.

are you going the air-con with a temp controller option ?

i've got a spare adlo temp control that i want to use, any good for this do you think ?

Cheers

Yard
 
dosnt ross have a walk in cool room?
 
no problem,

just going to fix the sheets together by tek screwing with ali angle and sikaflex, the floor i think will be the biggest pita.
are you going the air-con with a temp controller option ?

i've got a spare adlo temp control that i want to use, any good for this do you think ?

Cheers

Yard


I'll just use a danfoss or ranco electric thermostat, like a mashamster but with built in defrost timer and a few other goodies.

Any thermostat will work. aslong as it operates in the range.
 
I am half way through building one of these.

It was pretty much the first thing I embarked on when I decided I wanted to start brewing beer back in March. But as winter was approaching, I built the structure, then fited it with a fan heater running through a thermostat. Obviously It's almost time to switch over to refridgeration.

The room measures roughly 2m x 2m x 2m. I built the frame out of 70x35mm pine, braced on the four walls with that steel angle they use on houses. I insulated the floor by cutting pieces of 75mm polystyrene to fit in between the studs and nogans, then screwed 19mm yellow tounge flooring to both sides on it. For the walls and the roof I screwed 100mm polystyrene, and filled the gaps with space-invaders - This is a standard contruction technique for houses, then the outside gets rendered, which I plan to do to mine, it will look great (my brother is a renderer, so I got all this stuff cheap, and good advice). The door is a piece of 75mm cool-rom panel, this is 75mmpolystyrene with colorbond (about 2 or 3mm thick) on each side. I dug out the poly on one side of the door panel, and screwed in a piece of hard wood so I could mount hinges on it. Then I used a fridge seal to seal it up. The fridge seal sits on a few pieces on colorbond, that I installed specifically around the door so it could seal.

The whole things sits on castors, so I can roll it around the garage and move it if need be. The only major problem, is that I stuffed up the calcualtions of height, so to get it out my garage door, I will have to take the castors off, un-hook the garage door and drag it out.

I have calulated, that with a temperature difference of 20 C between inside and out, I should be losing about 300W, so I dont need a very powerful cooling unit to run it, a fridge motor would probably be fine. Even ona 40 C day, maintainig 4 C inside, I need less than 600 W of cooling capacity which isnt much.

As for the refridgeration part, Ive thought long and hard over winter about what I would do about it. You cant just use a regualr split system, as the temp control is in the wrong range. I got a quote on one that could control the correct temp range, and it was $4000 (as opposed to the same thing designed to control temps 18-30C, is about $300-400 from ebay or bunnings).

What I was going to do, was get small chest freezer, cut the lid off, or even maybe cut the whole thing in half. And install the part with the refridgeration motor into the room, by cutting a hole the right size in the polystyrene, sliding it through the hole and sealing it up. I have such a freezer at home, and it has a vent for cooling the heat sink on the back, so if I installed it with that vent pointing out the side of the room, then sealed it up, and run it off a thermostat...I should be sweet.

But, afer seeing Jamils unit, I never thought of that type of wall unit. The main problem with most air-con systems is they have some type of temperature set-point with a minimum of 18 C. They also are often inverter type syetms, that I dont think will handle being turned on and off frequently (I could be wrong about this, can any one confirm/deny?) Those old wall mount types are usually just on-off units, so they would be perfect to run of a thermostat. I think I am off to ebay to see if I can find a suitable one!!

If you want pics, let me know, I could probably post them tomorrow.

Edit: Incidently, I have a friend who is a refridgeration mechanic, he too told me that my freezer cutting idea will not last more than a week. He also pointed out, that due to condensation, my frame is likely to rot unless it is varnished or something.
 
I am half way through building one of these.

It was pretty much the first thing I embarked on when I decided I wanted to start brewing beer back in March. But as winter was approaching, I built the structure, then fited it with a fan heater running through a thermostat. Obviously It's almost time to switch over to refridgeration.

The room measures roughly 2m x 2m x 2m. I built the frame out of 70x35mm pine, braced on the four walls with that steel angle they use on houses. I insulated the floor by cutting pieces of 75mm polystyrene to fit in between the studs and nogans, then screwed 19mm yellow tounge flooring to both sides on it. For the walls and the roof I screwed 100mm polystyrene, and filled the gaps with space-invaders - This is a standard contruction technique for houses, then the outside gets rendered, which I plan to do to mine, it will look great (my brother is a renderer, so I got all this stuff cheap, and good advice). The door is a piece of 75mm cool-rom panel, this is 75mmpolystyrene with colorbond (about 2 or 3mm thick) on each side. I dug out the poly on one side of the door panel, and screwed in a piece of hard wood so I could mount hinges on it. Then I used a fridge seal to seal it up. The fridge seal sits on a few pieces on colorbond, that I installed specifically around the door so it could seal.

The whole things sits on castors, so I can roll it around the garage and move it if need be. The only major problem, is that I stuffed up the calcualtions of height, so to get it out my garage door, I will have to take the castors off, un-hook the garage door and drag it out.

I have calulated, that with a temperature difference of 20 C between inside and out, I should be losing about 300W, so I dont need a very powerful cooling unit to run it, a fridge motor would probably be fine. Even ona 40 C day, maintainig 4 C inside, I need less than 600 W of cooling capacity which isnt much.

As for the refridgeration part, Ive thought long and hard over winter about what I would do about it. You cant just use a regualr split system, as the temp control is in the wrong range. I got a quote on one that could control the correct temp range, and it was $4000 (as opposed to the same thing designed to control temps 18-30C, is about $300-400 from ebay or bunnings).

What I was going to do, was get small chest freezer, cut the lid off, or even maybe cut the whole thing in half. And install the part with the refridgeration motor into the room, by cutting a hole the right size in the polystyrene, sliding it through the hole and sealing it up. I have such a freezer at home, and it has a vent for cooling the heat sink on the back, so if I installed it with that vent pointing out the side of the room, then sealed it up, and run it off a thermostat...I should be sweet.

But, afer seeing Jamils unit, I never thought of that type of wall unit. The main problem with most air-con systems is they have some type of temperature set-point with a minimum of 18 C. They also are often inverter type syetms, that I dont think will handle being turned on and off frequently (I could be wrong about this, can any one confirm/deny?) Those old wall mount types are usually just on-off units, so they would be perfect to run of a thermostat. I think I am off to ebay to see if I can find a suitable one!!

If you want pics, let me know, I could probably post them tomorrow.

Edit: Incidently, I have a friend who is a refridgeration mechanic, he too told me that my freezer cutting idea will not last more than a week. He also pointed out, that due to condensation, my frame is likely to rot unless it is varnished or something.

Informative post Pip,

would like to see some pics :beer:

Cheers

Yard
 
The benefit of the cheaper window/wall units is that they have a dial like a standard aircon in a car. Just set it to maximum cooling and use a separate thermostat like a fridgemate to control it. I have heard of problems with the cooling coils freezing up with this arrangement though.
 
I'm looking forward to building this, been thinking about the floor though, it should be ok straight onto the concrete as long as it's sealed shouldn't it ?
be a lot easier to build that way as well.

Cheers

Yard
 
Concrete has a high heat capacity, and a decent heat conduction - I think you would want to insulate the floor that sits on the concrete.
 
You guys make me jealous. I live in the inner city. My block of land is 5m x 25m. It is all taken up by house.
 

I would be very surprised if that goes for less than a grand.

Incidently, that method of construction, using coolroom paneling and aluminium angles and strips, is a very easy and cheap method of building such a room. When I costed mine out, I decided I could do it cheaper by the method I described above, one of the reasons being I got the materials cheap because of my brother. But at the end of the day, I had forgotten a few things and I think that it would have been cheaper to build it with the coolroom panels. You can get thos panels from bluescope steel I think, in a various thicknesses, and they pop rivet together with appropriate pieces of aluminium an dsilicoen to seal.
 
I would be very surprised if that goes for less than a grand.

Incidently, that method of construction, using coolroom paneling and aluminium angles and strips, is a very easy and cheap method of building such a room. When I costed mine out, I decided I could do it cheaper by the method I described above, one of the reasons being I got the materials cheap because of my brother. But at the end of the day, I had forgotten a few things and I think that it would have been cheaper to build it with the coolroom panels. You can get thos panels from bluescope steel I think, in a various thicknesses, and they pop rivet together with appropriate pieces of aluminium an dsilicoen to seal.



I bet you have just put it on you ebay watched items list. :lol:
 
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