The Brauduino (Matho’s Controller) Build/Advice/Question Thread

[lael]

bigmac - PM'd you.

sluggerdog - I know qldkev put an outlet at the bottom of his 1v recirc rig to make sure there was adequate movement around his elements. It seems like running top-bottom produces a slower flow which may not move the wort around enough. I would recommend looking at his build and working out something similar and see how it goes.

 

[sluggerdog]

sluggerdog - I know qldkev put an outlet at the bottom of his 1v recirc rig to make sure there was adequate movement around his elements. It seems like running top-bottom produces a slower flow which may not move the wort around enough. I would recommend looking at his build and working out something similar and see how it goes.

Thanks Lael,

I actually copied qldkev's setup, his diagram is as below (stolen from his build thread). this is how mine is also setup (except my element being the crown urn element). I used this setup without the controller and I didn't get burning, adding the controller in I got burning, this is why I am suspecting it's a controller setting. PID or Pump settings I mentioned a few posts back that may be the cause. Something I need to change to suit my setup. I also have that issue of the PID not getting to temp for upto 10 mins (e.g. 62.5 trying to get to 63c) which may also be contributing to the burning possibly.

I have my PID I setting on 5 at the moment, I guess I could try this at 15 instead and see how it goes?

You also mentioned the D setting which I have 5, maybe that should change?

Cheers

qldkev's diagram

 

[zwitter]

Bigmac
Does your relay "click"? ie in manual mode when you turn pump on and off does the relay click on and off? I assume the green LED turns on and off?

I looked at your photo but a bit hard to see much with the lighting in the base a bit poor.

james
zwitter

 

[bigmacthepunker]

Bigmac
Does your relay "click"? ie in manual mode when you turn pump on and off does the relay click on and off? I assume the green LED turns on and off?

I looked at your photo but a bit hard to see much with the lighting in the base a bit poor.

james
zwitter

I don't remember the relay clicking. I'll check that when I get home tonight and advise.
Cheers
Bigmac

 

[SBOB]

How do your settings on the controller look compared to mine (I'm wondering if some of the burning could be caused by pump rest / cycle options in combination with the PID settings? Maybe us urn users need to have some specific setting try and work around the limitations of the high watt elements in the urns.

Thanks

I was running mine in manual so only the heater PID settings were being used and i think there were pretty similar (the ones lael gave as some example defaults as I havent bothered 'thinking' about what the might be better tuned to yet)

 

[breakbeer]

Has anyone used an immersion element with one of these controllers?

Thinking about using one as my 2nd element, which I only need during the boil. Reason being that I can also use it to heat up sparge water during the mash

 

[OneEye]

Finally set mine up to test run the heater and pump and validate the temperature reading..

Am I right in that the temp is only accurate to 0.5c? Running in manual and it jumps 0.5c steps so I'm guessing the resolution of the temperature is ±/— 0.5c?

Couldnt find any reference to it with a quick search on my phone

Is this right?

 

[breakbeer]

I don't know for certain, but I'd be surprised if it was only accurate to within .5 of a degree. I have one of the first Brauduino controllers & it's accurate to within .25 of a degree.

 

[SBOB]

The current code appears to only read the value assuming a 9-bit value (0.5c resolution) as opposed to 12-bit which the DS18B20 supports (0.0625c resolution)..
Being bored, im currently looking to see how easy it is to modify this


--- Ran out of enthusiasm so 0.5c will do for now

 

[RobB]

Has anyone in Perth had any luck finding the male Neutrik connectors? Jaycar doesn't have them on their website and Altronics are out of stock until late December.

 

[The Judge]

Soz man, no idea. Have you tried a music store? Aren't they also microphone connectors?

 

[Mardoo]

I don't know for certain, but I'd be surprised if it was only accurate to within .5 of a degree. I have one of the first Brauduino controllers & it's accurate to within .25 of a degree.

Here's a crosslink of a good little discussion about temperature resolution in ArdBir, just to make sure all get a chance to see it.

 

[lael]

All the time. I didn't want to change the plug on the OTS element, so my aux heat goes from the heater to an extension cord with a female socket on the end. Just one of the cheap 3m $3 ones from bunnings.

Has anyone used an immersion element with one of these controllers?

Thinking about using one as my 2nd element, which I only need during the boil. Reason being that I can also use it to heat up sparge water during the mash

 

[lael]

Just be aware that the Neutriks are not as good. They have an open back rather than a fully sealed back and from memory are rated to 15A. I'm happy to supply spares if anyone wants them - just PM me.

Has anyone in Perth had any luck finding the male Neutrik connectors? Jaycar doesn't have them on their website and Altronics are out of stock until late December.

 

[MastersBrewery]

Has anyone used an immersion element with one of these controllers?

Thinking about using one as my 2nd element, which I only need during the boil. Reason being that I can also use it to heat up sparge water during the mash

yes Lael, as a second element.

 

[zwitter]

A few comments

Immersion heaters are exactly what the second element circuit is designed for. I have had some issues getting 40 litres to boil vigorously and have. A 2400w immersion heater and it gets it going. Be aware that immersion elements are high density heat elements and you may experience some burning around the element so keep an eye out.

As far as using "extension cords" in the special plugs we used in the controller. Most extension cords are rated for 10amps and that is on a good day with the cord unraveled and in clear air etc. they will not be 2.5mm copper. If you choose to use an extension cable then at least go for a quality 15a one and keep the length to a minimum. No matter how good quality the cable is if you draw a big current the cable will have voltage drop and will get hot.

I would probably suggest buying extras from ebay or Lael.

Anyone with serious issues with their controllers like relay not switching or display scrambling or other weirdness, PM me or Lael and we can sort out some repairs or replacements.

I will stress that you must run through the setup and enter values etc or it will not work correctly.

I am interested to hear what PID settings you are using. Would need to know the settings you use plus pot volume, element wattage, temp sensor position etc

I had the same issue with getting close but never actually hitting the temp and spent hours getting it to work with a live wort, still drinking the beer though.

James
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[lael]

An update on the 0.5 resolution on the temp probe. I'll post a video showing how to change it to .25 resolution tonight.

 

[breakbeer]

Thanks zwitter,

I've ordered a 2400W OTS element & I already have a cable made up for it. It's rated to 20amp and is quite short, one end is female 3 pin & the other is the connector that came with the kit

 

[lespaul]

Is the board rated to 250v. The sparky is worried about the power is going straight to the board.
Edit: he can see the relay is rated to 250v but he just wants to double check the board is?

 

[real_beer]

Is the board rated to 250v. The sparky is worried about the power is going straight to the board.
Edit: he can see the relay is rated to 250v but he just wants to double check the board is?

Hi les,

I don't think zwitter would have got involved if it wasn't safe. There are a few other electricians on the forum as well who would probably have jump on the line quickly if they thought it was unsafe. Having said that it pays to be safe. :icon_cheers: