The Brauduino (Matho’s Controller) Build/Advice/Question Thread

[lael]

Slugger dog, what settings ate you currently using?

 

[sluggerdog]

Slugger dog, what settings ate you currently using?

ha, I had a feeling this would be the first question asked. I cannot remember off the top of my head, it's currently brewing in progress.

I think my settings were close to yours from the video, I used your video and a post I found by MaxN68 here as my initial guide. I have an external sensor.

I guess I cannot check these settings until I have finished today?

 

[lael]

Hmmm, yeah, unless you start the mash again. Depends on how far through you are. I noticed a similar problem once but caught it in the first stage and adjusted.

I haven't tested the settings in the video which is why I commented to test them on your own system

I personally find it annoying to test and set them (and the changes to the way it runs from version to version so you have to check the settings each time), but once done, it works.

 

[sluggerdog]

Hmmm, yeah, unless you start the mash again. Depends on how far through you are. I noticed a similar problem once but caught it in the first stage and adjusted.

I haven't tested the settings in the video which is why I commented to test them on your own system

I personally find it annoying to test and set them (and the changes to the way it runs from version to version so you have to check the settings each time), but once done, it works.

I'll just wait and report back later this morning, I'm not that far from mash out.

 

[matt211181]

I have a question, I think it's probably a PID setting but I'm not sure what they all mean exactly.

Everything is working well with my controller however it seems to be sitting on 1/2 degree short of each step. e.g. 62.5c for upto 10 mins while it slowly tries to get to 63c.

Any idea what setting I could tweak to have the heat go a little longer when it flashes off and on?

I'm in 2.8.3

Thanks

Hi Sluggerdog - I had the same issue during my first mash, so I increased the integral term in the PID settings from 15 (as originally recommended in Lael's video - but as he said, the values will be dependent on your system) to 30 on my system. My increasing that value, I found it got to temps quicker.

Oh and I also found I could do this mid-mash too. I held both black buttons together to get back to main menu, changed the PID settings, then went back to Auto mode and resumed from the same spot in the mash sequence.

 

[lael]

The other option is to reduce the derivative as well if you are stalling out close to temp values.

 

[sluggerdog]

Slugger dog, what settings ate you currently using?

UPDATE:

I've just finished, everything went well controller wise, I love it.

My Setup:
Crown Urn
Keg King Pump with top and bottom return
Brew Bag sitting ontop of a stainless tray with stainless legs (so the tray sits higher then the bottom return)

My Current PID Settings:
KP: 95
KI: 5
KD: 5
Sample Time: 3500
Window Set: 4000
HIB: 100% (External Sensor)

Unit Settings:
Temp Boil: 99c
Pump Cycle: 10
Pump Rest: 1


Now on to the bad news, I completed by brew, filled my cube and found I have a burnt element.


My Steps were as follows:
60c Mash In
63c for 50 mins
72c for 20 mins
78c for 10 mins - Mash Out

90 min boil

I brewed with this same recirculating setup about 3 weeks ago, manually checking the temperature on a simple 66c for 75 min and then 78c for 10 mins. No burnt issues there so I am wondering if it's to do with my controller settings somehow?

I deliberately started at 60c rather then chucking in a protein rest, this has caused others issues in the past with a crown urn and burning so I hoped by mashing in at 60c I would bypass this issue.

When planning my setup I figured that if the bottom return hit the bottom element of the crown it would help prevent burning as it was curculating the whole time the pump run (this is why I only have 1 min rest above)

I trailed 2 return options:

Return A

AND
Return B

Both splashed the bottom element however Return A seemed to do a better job so I ran with that one.


Does anyone have any ideas how I can get around this issue? Changing the crown for something else isn't really an option. Could it be as simple as removing the pump rest? Or also some of the other controller settings?

Thanks

 

[bigmacthepunker]

Hi All,
I hope that your builds are traveling well. I have completed mine and current testing ATM . Everything seams to be running to order but I have an issue with the pump power outlet. It is always powered and I unable to switch it off. The pump switch is working correctly. In manual mode the green led comes on and off as the P in the LCD screen. I thinking I might be the onboard relay that might be the issue. As I want to connect this to my Grainfather and will be not using the second SSR. Is they a way of bypassing the onboard relay and using the SSR instead. Any thoughts will be gladly appreciated.

 

[MastersBrewery]

Hi All,
I hope that your builds are traveling well. I have completed mine and current testing ATM . Everything seams to be running to order but I have an issue with the pump power outlet. It is always powered and I unable to switch it off. The pump switch is working correctly. In manual mode the green led comes on and off as the P in the LCD screen. I thinking I might be the onboard relay that might be the issue. As I won't to connect this to my Grainfather and will be not using the second SSR. Is they a way of bypassing the onboard relay and using the SSR instead. Any thoughts will be gladly appreciated.

Yes you can, how ever I can't remember the pin number for the pump, PM Lael he will know and I'm sure he will come up with the best and easiest solution for you.

MB

 

[zwitter]

Hi Big Mac....

Yes can use the second SSR for the pump. If the relay switches it is as easy as switching 12v with the relay and the output to the SSR. A little messy but does not require soldering etc. if you have a soldering iron you can remove the Relay from the board and use the coil end of the relay (as different to the switch end) and just take the two wires to the SŚR. You will need to keep positive and negative the right way round.

If Lael gives me the latest circuit diagram and PCB overlay I can do pictures. Note that this is really for the big boys with the knowledge in electronics and the tools.

There is another way and that involves buying a small SSR from Jaycar or similar and using that for pump. Really the relay should be fine for the purpose though and not require changing.

James
Zwitter


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[SBOB]

UPDATE:

I've just finished, everything went well controller wise, I love it.
.
.
.
Does anyone have any ideas how I can get around this issue? Changing the crown for something else isn't really an option. Could it be as simple as removing the pump rest? Or also some of the other controller settings?

Thanks

no tips, but I also did an impromptu brew today to test out the controller (just in manual)
Did a Rye IPA, and tried recirculating just using my BIAB inside the crab pot cooker insert I normally use. Started out ok but then after a small adjustment to the recirc flow I ended up overflowing a bit (which is wierd considering the number of holes in the side of the cooker insert). Then after mashing out the bag was like a balloon and wouldnt drain. And then at the end of the boil I had some burnt crap on my Birko element.. I'm not sure how much was a result of recirculating and how much (im expecting most) was due to a Rye IPA with ~18% rye...

So, all in all, a pretty eventful and annoying brew day.. So in summary, you could have gone worse.

 

[zwitter]

Real beer & others

There is no need to apologise!

If you kill yourselves with this controller I will be upset!!!

If you slag me out or the like, that is up to you and while not encouraged or desired it is a free world. I am far from perfect and in no way normal. But it does not hurt me even a little bit.

I have had my share of mental issues along with about a third of all people in this country. PTSD, my sister's death when I was 5 and some other stuff. I live with OCD, AD and some other stuff the quacks have fancy names for but unless I tell you, you would never know. I live with them and control them without medication.

I have been in the RFS for 21 years and if the SH1T goes down I am the most together person you will ever meet. I have been to almost every big fire in that time. Give me firestorm etc any day. A crying woman though can bring me undone and leave me in pieces.

Give me a beer and You will do better than if you give me crap.

But give me crap if I deserve it and do not apologise.

Zwitter. ( surprised no one has commented on the name? No German speakers here? I chose it when registering a business name. Zwitter-ion an ion possessing properties of both positive and negative ions). Seemed to fit.

James zwitter
Sorry if that is too personal. Guess could delete that or move it somewhere?

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[Barge]

I got it (being a chemistry teacher) but never thought to comment on it.

Nice post. Should be more of it.

 

[Barge]

no tips, but I also did an impromptu brew today to test out the controller (just in manual)
Did a Rye IPA, and tried recirculating just using my BIAB inside the crab pot cooker insert I normally use. Started out ok but then after a small adjustment to the recirc flow I ended up overflowing a bit (which is wierd considering the number of holes in the side of the cooker insert). Then after mashing out the bag was like a balloon and wouldnt drain. And then at the end of the boil I had some burnt crap on my Birko element.. I'm not sure how much was a result of recirculating and how much (im expecting most) was due to a Rye IPA with ~18% rye...

So, all in all, a pretty eventful and annoying brew day.. So in summary, you could have gone worse.

Apart from being a **** up, how did it go in terms of clarifying the wort. I'm heading down the same path (already have the pot and bag) but I'm wondering once the pump arrives if I should just get a Big W pot as a malt pipe.

I like BIAB but the 3-4L lost to trub is a bit annoying.

 

[MastersBrewery]

for the guys with burning issues ( burnt wort on elements) you'll note most previous builders and the original braumeister used low watt density elements, you will probably also note that protein rests and urn elements do not play well either. When I Biab in my(now dented with broken sight glass) urn I always mash @ 65+ step to 72 then to 78, I still got some carramelising on the element. Rye won't help either

OT BTW I hate moving!

 

[SBOB]

for the guys with burning issues ( burnt wort on elements) you'll note most previous builders and the original braumeister used low watt density elements, you will probably also note that protein rests and urn elements do not play well either. When I Biab in my(now dented with broken sight glass) urn I always mash @ 65+ step to 72 then to 78, I still got some carramelising on the element. Rye won't help either

OT BTW I hate moving!

Mine was a single mash in at 67 then mash out at 78... similar to what I normally did without the recirc. Im hoping todays issues were mostly due to rye but we will see.. Already have a big-w pot so plan was to modify that to remove the bag from the setup, but hopefully Lael will have some nice pot/malt-pipe combos available in the not to distant future for an upgrade

do you think the recirc would add to any scorching issues?

 

[SBOB]

Apart from being a **** up, how did it go in terms of clarifying the wort. I'm heading down the same path (already have the pot and bag) but I'm wondering once the pump arrives if I should just get a Big W pot as a malt pipe.

I like BIAB but the 3-4L lost to trub is a bit annoying.

to be honest I dont think it made any difference, but thats most likely due to me needing to mix and scrape the bag to get it to drain both when I had the overflow and on mashout/draining (plus squeezing)

 

[bigmacthepunker]

Thanks for the info MB and Zwitter. I did some more testing. Checking the heating pins for reference they are working fine, open and closing the circuit via the switch in manual mode.When I checked the pump pins it was an open circuit. Turning the pump switch on and off made no difference.
I then disconnected the the pump connector at the shield and turn the unit on to check if there was a short circuit feeding power back to the outlet connector. There was no short circuit. Looks like its the relay.
Cheers Bigmac

 

[bigmacthepunker]

 

[sluggerdog]

Mine was a single mash in at 67 then mash out at 78... similar to what I normally did without the recirc. Im hoping todays issues were mostly due to rye but we will see.. Already have a big-w pot so plan was to modify that to remove the bag from the setup, but hopefully Lael will have some nice pot/malt-pipe combos available in the not to distant future for an upgrade

do you think the recirc would add to any scorching issues?

I have had my pump for the last 18 months, recirculating BIAB old school without any issues. My burning only started when I used the controller for the first time this weekend, plus a mash in at 60c, I have done many 63c then 78c in the past recirculating without burning issues. So I don't think it's the recirculating causing the scorching / burning.

My Current PID Settings:
KP: 95
KI: 5
KD: 5
Sample Time: 3500
Window Set: 4000
HIB: 100% (External Sensor)

Unit Settings:
Temp Boil: 99c
Pump Cycle: 10
Pump Rest: 1

How do your settings on the controller look compared to mine (I'm wondering if some of the burning could be caused by pump rest / cycle options in combination with the PID settings? Maybe us urn users need to have some specific setting try and work around the limitations of the high watt elements in the urns.

Thanks