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The Brauduino (Matho’s Controller) Build/Advice/Question Thread

Discussion in 'Electronics, Hardware & Software' started by SBOB, 5/11/15.

 

  1. SBOB

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    Posted 5/11/15
    Seems to be a few people asking in the buy thread so, as no one else has done it... How about we use this for build/advice/technical questions that are bound to be plentiful over the coming weeks. If it turns out everyone keeps using the buy thread then I'll copy paste this post as a 'summary' so far to there

    Stealing some useful info from the current buy thread with references to those people that posted them.

    Default disclaimer (quoting Lael):
    It is your responsibility to confirm with your electrician that this is in fact a safe way to wire the controller and to certify the wiring job that is done on the controller. 240v can kill. Don't risk it.

    Build videos by Lael:


    240v wiring example by Lael:




    Build word doc by Zwitter:


     
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  2. sluggerdog

    Beer In Here

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    Posted 5/11/15
    I showed this wire diagram from lael (quoted above) to my sparky and they asked me to find out how the DC power supply is worked into this.

    [​IMG]
     
  3. SBOB

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    Posted 5/11/15



    I would be tempted to say 'find a new sparky' ;)

    The following are words written by 1000 monkeys typing on a 1000 keyboards and shouldn't be taken as electrical advice ;)

    But the DC power supply (from memory, not got one in front of me) will have a 240V incoming (G/N/L) and then a 12 volt outlet side (V+/V-)
    Power into the DC power supply would come from the main 'Power In' (think that's the top inlet shown on Lael's drawing, which has one active going to the 'Pump in' on the board, the other connects to the top SSR) and the 12V outlet would be supplying power to the Arduino board

    The outlets from the box (Main Heater Out, Main Pump Out and Aux Heater Out) are switched by the relays on Arduino board or via the SSRs

    You should be able to 'kind of' make this out from zwitters word document and the image shown on page 11 but I will note

    - Zwitter has wire this configuration up different to the image shown in Lael's diagram
    Zwitters example has (from my squinting and following wires) - Zwitter please correct me i'f im wrong. Its difficult following grainy wires on a computer screen ;)
    Top Middle as Pump Out
    Middle Row as Main Power In/Main Power Out
    Bottom Row as Aux Power In/Aux Heater Out
     
  4. SBOB

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    Posted 5/11/15
    Details on ArdBir source, documentation for PCB/Manual, Code and Repository links - Thanks to Zwitter
    Lael/Zwitter have mentioned previusly a 'guide' will be created re updating the Brauduino, but these will be handy for anyone wanting to learn themselves


     
  5. real_beer

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    Posted 5/11/15
    I think with all the confusion and uncertainty going on at the moment a lot of people might be better off just assembling their controllers and then waiting for the wiring video to be uploaded by Lael's electrical contacts.

    If you blow yours up by following someone's well intentioned advice it wouldn't be fair to then blame them for something you haven't understood. If you have a bottle with poison in it you can see the danger (unless its in an unmarked drink bottle :angry: ), a cable with electricity flowing through it looks just the same as one without. I'm really worried someone is going to get caught out very soon. At least make sure you all have it plugged into a circuit with RCD protection on it.

    You can still plug it in and play with it using a usb cable to get your jollies in the meantime.

    So if you've got family, friends, or a life you'd like to keep enjoying for a while I'd wait until your 100% sure your going to be safe before wiring one up and turning it on.

    Sorry to be a joy killer for the impatient ones among us but we've all waited so long that a little longer wont hurt. :icon_cheers:
     
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  6. SBOB

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    Posted 5/11/15
    Sound advice. Not a single bit of information in this thread should be blindly followed (whether its Lael's or someone elses), especially on the 240v side.



    Indeed.... turning on red and green LED's is hours worth of entertainment already
     
  7. real_beer

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    Posted 5/11/15
    And adjust all the menu settings and enter recipes, but the LED's are the highlight and very good entertainment :lol:.
     
  8. MastersBrewery

    Journeyman, the learning never stops

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    Posted 5/11/15
    ok so I went for a look for matho's original stuff but his diagram may just confuse things further and it's burried deep in the matho thread. Now this was done in my most hated software so bare with me a little. The usual disclaimers regarding electrical work apply get a sparky in and get in checked!
    Brau wiring.jpg
     
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  9. SBOB

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    Posted 5/11/15
    Nice.

    Also, for clarity of people following the lines, there's no reason the DC supplies 'Gnd' & 'A' connections need to 'hop' via the SSR (apart from trying to neaten wiring,the DC supply is permanently powered)
     
  10. MastersBrewery

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    Posted 5/11/15
    I didn't like that one, so I tidied it a bit and this will be my wire trace. As lael said the 12v power going to the board has to be correct or you will blow shit up. The board I've shown is actually matho's but the layout ( the most important bits) is the same.
    Brau wiring.jpg
     
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  11. zwitter

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    Posted 5/11/15
    Hi SBOB

    You are correct I chose to arrange the sockets differently from what Lael did in his wiring diagram.

    Note Lael is planning to do a video with me but he is doing HSC marking so the few moments he is not teaching and marking is totally consumed in getting home and sleeping. Probably will do this on the weekend.

    I may try and draw a diagram or two that reflect my box and a schematic diagram for the back half as well.

    The power supply does have 5 screw terminals on the end and they are 240v power and earth and v+ (12v positive) and v- (0volts/ground)

    The 240v side is labeled but will look at that and add photos and description later tonight.
    James


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
     
  12. zwitter

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    Posted 5/11/15
    Masters brewery

    Actually the old Mathos diagram is not correct. As the SSRs are one up right way and other upside down the connections to the input side will have to cross over for one of the SSRs as the input has polarity ie - to - and + to +. Otherwise the second SSR will not turn on. Note the SSRs have integral LEDs to show they are being turned on.

    The diagram also is not clear as to which pin on the socket the wires connect to.

    James
    Zwitter


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
     
  13. MastersBrewery

    Journeyman, the learning never stops

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    Posted 5/11/15
    ok so after having all sorta put together and packed away, Ive followed Zwitters advice and took a picture. I've shown conection of each wire seperately as cross over was confusing. If anyone picks up on an error let me know.
    Active wire
    Active.jpg

    Earth wire
    earth.jpg

    Neutral
    Neutral.jpg

    Low Voltage
    low volt.jpg

    ED: note the red and black wires are as comes with the kit for the alarm and temp sensor The white wire for the temp sensor goes to the centre port as shown.
    My net hates me that took for ever to upload
     
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  14. SBOB

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    Posted 5/11/15
    connecting all earth wires would be my only comment
     
  15. zwitter

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    Posted 5/11/15
    Hi Masters

    Yes you have correctly done the crossover with the low voltage side of the SSRs.

    If I was pedantic I would also have same pin on SSR as active in and other as out but it works either way.

    I would say the earth should be connected between the two inputs. You have drawn as 2 different earth circuits but I would say they should be connected together.

    You have correctly drawn the other wires but the bends in your neutral may confuse and the active crosses multiple pins on the sockets. Maybe dots where there is a connection would make it a bit clearer?

    Zwitter

    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
     
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  16. OneEye

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    Posted 5/11/15
    My old man is a sparky and I've been asking him to have a look and he's not happy with the main power being a male plug. Saying that it doesn't meet Aus standards? Basically, when plugged into the 240v, if it's not plugged into the box then it's a potential hazard
     
  17. LiquidCurrency

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    Posted 5/11/15
    So I broke this. Jaycar only has red. Anyone know where I can get another? ImageUploadedByAussie Home Brewer1446717274.352472.jpg
     
  18. LiquidCurrency

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    Posted 5/11/15
    ImageUploadedByAussie Home Brewer1446717420.817788.jpg
     
  19. MastersBrewery

    Journeyman, the learning never stops

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    Posted 5/11/15
    ok joined the earth :D, put little circles where wires attach, couldn't do the dot thing, this software sux.

    Active
    Active.jpg

    Earth
    earth.jpg

    Neutral
    Neutral.jpg

    Low Voltage
    low volt.jpg

    OneEye the blue (power in) connector is being used the same as an IEC(computer cable) connector/ socket, if you bend a fork well enough you can electrocute yourself as well with either, that said throw any cord in a bucket of water you'll get the same result, you can't easily get to 2 terminals in the socket the same as an extension or IEC. The advantage of the powercon is it locks into place, unlike an IEC or extension cord, trip on the cord and you will pull it from the wall before it will come away from the controller. To my mind that makes it a lot safer for our application. Your kitchen kettle most likely plugs into the wall and then plugs into the kettle, but its on the bench and you can't trip on the wire......
     
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  20. SBOB

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    Posted 5/11/15
    Its less of a hazard than an extension cable as the plug type being used has its conductors more recessed than a standard AUS female socket on the end of an extension cable. No different than say an IEC plug on a computer/kettle lead.
     
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