The Brauduino (Matho’s Controller) Build/Advice/Question Thread

[lespaul]

Yeh. I personally had no idea. I assumed but I thought I'd ask anyway.
As a side note the electrician wasn't happy with the jaycar crimps, said they were a poor fit and no insulation over crimp. He didn't like that all the earth points weren't together (each input had its own separate earth circuit). He preferred the flex cable to the twin and earth. And I used red speaker cable for the DC and he said to use grey or something. So overall a little pedantic but at least he's taking it seriously.
Rewired it all today, see what he says.

 

[sluggerdog]

UPDATE:

I've just finished, everything went well controller wise, I love it.

My Setup:
Crown Urn
Keg King Pump with top and bottom return
Brew Bag sitting ontop of a stainless tray with stainless legs (so the tray sits higher then the bottom return)

My Current PID Settings:
KP: 95
KI: 5
KD: 5
Sample Time: 3500
Window Set: 4000

I'm wondering what other people are setting their PID too? Still trying to work out what they mean and how to best tune it for my system.

After my above settings were causing slow ramp up times when the temperature was 1 or 2 degrees off I performed a sample brew thismorning (water only, no grain) with the following:


KP: 100
KI: 30
KD: 3
Sample Time: 3500
Window Set: 7500

This was better but it seemed to slightly overshoot the temperature while it was holding at each mash level. e.g. it would get to 63.5 (temp was programmed for 63.0) and still the heat would briefly flick off and on even though the temp was over. it didn't seem to get any higher but it did hold at 63.5 longer then it should have.

Thanks

 

[breakbeer]

Decided to go without the face plate, gives it an industrial look

 

[lael]

I'm wondering what other people are setting their PID too? Still trying to work out what they mean and how to best tune it for my system.

After my above settings were causing slow ramp up times when the temperature was 1 or 2 degrees off I performed a sample brew thismorning (water only, no grain) with the following:

KP: 100
KI: 30
KD: 3
Sample Time: 3500
Window Set: 7500

This was better but it seemed to slightly overshoot the temperature while it was holding at each mash level. e.g. it would get to 63.5 (temp was programmed for 63.0) and still the heat would briefly flick off and on even though the temp was over. it didn't seem to get any higher but it did hold at 63.5 longer then it should have.

Thanks

Personally I would be happier with that. 0.5 over in a mash step is not really going to have that much of an impact compared to sitting at 10mins under target. You could increase the sample time or KD would be my next experiment - prob KD to 4 first and sampletime to 4500.

 

[breakbeer]

Looks like I have a couple of issues with my controller

1. When I plugged in the front panel via usb I tried it in manual mode. When I press the red button I get the little H symbol on the screen but the light doesn't come on

2. When the unit was fully assembled I plugged it into mains power & the screen is completely blank but the pump light flashes

The sparky who checked it for me said the wiring seemed fine but he wasn't overly confident with guaranteeing its functionality as he hasn't really worked on these type things. I showed him the wiring diagram that I followed (the one masters brewer posted) & he said it was wired correctly

This has got me stumped & a bit annoyed as I really NEED to brew next weekend

 

[marc280]

For point one, have you checked that it is not in 'gas' mode? There have been a few posts about this and changing that might fix your problem.

Check Lael's YouTube Clips and there is a word doc in here as well that goes through the setup.

Not sure about the second part.

 

[breakbeer]

I haven't updated the software in it so it's got the version that it came with (2.6.70), on this version it doesn't seem to give me the option to change from gas to electric.

I'm now trying to download the new version but in all honesty the instructions are going a little over my head, mainly the part about the library folders

 

[lael]

Hi breakbeer,
The libraries just need to be downloaded from the link and copied into the libraries folder in program files(x86)>>arduino. Just pause the video as it goes and do one step at a time.

For the heat - check that the set point is above the measured temp and that the heat led is fully pushed on.

You also need to fully set up the software - pid settings and unit settings before running any tests.

I did have an issue when testing boards yesterday - on 2.8.3 it seemed that the heat wouldn't turn on in manual mode when using Fahrenheit. In Celsius it was fine. No idea why.

 

[bigmacthepunker]

Hi Breakbeer,
I found that I had to adjust the screen brightness the first time for changing from 5v to 12v. Just need a small screwdriver and turn the blue pot. See Lael video, as it shows how to do it in that.
Cheers
Bigmac

 

[breakbeer]

Hi Lael,

Can you please post the link to the files I need to put in the library?

I think i need to update the software before I proceed any further

I updated the PID settings as per your instructions before I had any of these issues & the blank screen is definitely not the pot as I adjusted it several times to make sure

 

[SBOB]

Hi Lael,

Can you please post the link to the files I need to put in the library?

They are in the links under the youtube video demo'ing how to upgrade


Links:
Arduino Software:
https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software

Arduino Libraries:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/v290helbdkm...

ArdBir Dropbox Link:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/96o6i39o50...

 

[zwitter]

Breakbeer

A word of warning.
If it does not work with "old" software new software is just asking for trouble. You will not be able to see if it has loaded properly, will be unable to do setup etc

Get it working before you even attempt the upgrade. The software as shipped is perfectly functional.

The setup must be run even with the software as it was shipped. This takes time and is responsibility of the builder of the system as they will all be different.

I am happy to look at your unit but would need to either send to me or bring it over if you are in Sydney. I am near north Parramatta.

James
Zwitter


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[breakbeer]

I have read every single post in this thread, several times. I know I had to run the setup as per the video, which I did

In the software that came with the controller there is no option to change from Gas to Electric

Here is a pic of the front panel which is connected via USB, as you can see there is a H symbol on the screen but no light, this might just be a faulty led



That only covers my first issue though, obviously I've done something wrong when wiring it up & I have no idea what that is? A sparky said it was safe to plug in but couldn't say whether or not it would work, which doesn't fill me with confidence in his qualifications.

 

[lael]

Oh, it could be simple. Has the led ever turned on? You might have it the wrong way around. The tabs on the led header should be facing the LCD.

 

[marc280]

For the gas option, gas mode is under the PID menu as shown in the attached pics. Hopefully that helps...

I couldn't work out why my heating led wasn't turning on for a while and this fixed it.

 

[breakbeer]

Thanks mate, but mine isn't giving me that option. When I hit the green button for Setup the first option is P.I.D Parameters, I press the green button again and it goes straight to Konstant P



I've checked every single option in Setup mode & there is absolutely no mention of Gas or Electric

 

[breakbeer]

Oh, it could be simple. Has the led ever turned on? You might have it the wrong way around. The tabs on the led header should be facing the LCD.

Success! Even though it took me a couple of tries. I turned it around & it still didn't light up, unplugged it & tried again & she now lights up like a Christmas tree.

Feeling a bit stupid but also relieved

 

[bigmacthepunker]

I could be wrong, but think the the gas & electric is only on the newest software.

 

[marc280]

So I've finished wiring it all up and everything is working fine except for the pump control.

I've checked and checked the wiring and it all seems ok. I've checked that the relay is working with nothing connected to it. I.e. it goes open circuit and closes with nothing attached to it. There is also only 240v on one of the wires when not connected to the relay. As soon as I connect the plug to the board I get 240v on the pump outlet all the time.

You can hear the relay clicking when pressing the pump button.

It's got me a bit stumped!

Any ideas?

 

[zwitter]

Hi marc280

I have one thing to check. You are switching active?

I once had a circuit using IEC sockets where male and female effective ly have active and neutral on opposite sides for a plug and a socket and a late night of wiring and had one socket, for the pump backwards and pump would not switch off! 20 seconds later it was solved.

The photo is a bit hard to follow but can not see any obvious problems.

I would suggest if you have the gear to do this. Is to measure with no power connected anywhere. Measure the active pin of the power plug to one side of the relay plug and the other side to the active of the pump output. Then plug the relay plug in to the board and measure from active of power plug to the pump socket.

The first two measurements should be connected but the third should not be connected when the unit is off and not plugged. In. Then you could use a paper clip to short the two pins of the relay plug and see the connection from power plug through to the pump socket.
Note all these tests are with no power connected.

James
Zwitter




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