The Brauduino (Matho’s Controller) Build/Advice/Question Thread

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lael said:
Looks fantastic! What settings did you use?
P= 100
I = 25
D= 0
3500
7500
100%
+ 2.5 deg
From Biab to GF 60- 70 % EF to GF 84% EF.
Thanks Lael for making it so easy to build.
Regards Bigmac

PS: Having controller details on a phone would be might handy, but it wouldn't be brewing. I did miss my pulley for a bag. Another step to better beer.
 
Greetings from Denmark
I Can not wait to the package arrives.
hi i want to share my ideas.I have built my system with a heater from the stove see photo. 230V / 2000W 180 MM
I have a 10 mm thick aluminum plate in the pan and heater to distribute the heat.
Heater can raise a degree per min, with 25 liters of water in the pan. and is easy to clean than a tubular heating element.
and many thanks to lael. and all those who have contributed
http://www.nettoparts.dk/shop/komfurer-ovne-kogeplade-16c1.html
tommy160

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tommy160 said:
Greetings from Denmark
Hi tommy160,

Fantastic idea and it looks really neat. I really enjoy seeing how people think outside the box and come up with new ways of doing the same thing.

Your score is 6 stars out of 5 :beer:
Your going to really enjoy using the controller over the long winter months ahead in Denmark. When the green led turns on it's bright enough to light your whole brew house by itself :lol:
 
Anybody made a controller stand yet. I'm thinking of ideas now, as it is hard to read with flat.
 
I have something similar to this:

ImageUploadedByAussie Home Brewer1449362601.684486.jpg

Clamps on to my brew stand & can be tilted or adjusted to any angle
 
bigmacthepunker said:
Hi bigmacthepunker,
Am I correct in assuming that you have hooked up your Mathos to the grainfather? This is exactly what I was going to do (when I buy my grainfather). I would love to get a bit of a "how to" on what you did to complete the conversion.

The other alternative I have considered is the Robobrew by Keg King. Either way I think the proccess will be the same.

TIA
 
tommy160 said:
hello again a few new photo of building installations.
Looks nice Tommy! Is that a standard electric plate or an induction plate? I've been wondering about the effectiveness of induction elements for these systems....
 
bigmacthepunker said:
P= 100
I = 25
D= 0
3500
7500
100%
+ 2.5 deg
From Biab to GF 60- 70 % EF to GF 84% EF.
Thanks Lael for making it so easy to build.
Regards Bigmac

PS: Having controller details on a phone would be might handy, but it wouldn't be brewing. I did miss my pulley for a bag. Another step to better beer.
Nice work! Glad you found it easy :)

I've played with the PID settings a little and am currently using:
P= 100
I = 20
D= 3
3500
4500

It works really well. I might try dropping D down to 2. I would rather have a mild overshoot (0.5) and faster mash time, than a slower mash.
 
ken_gilchrist said:
Hi bigmacthepunker,
Am I correct in assuming that you have hooked up your Mathos to the grainfather? This is exactly what I was going to do (when I buy my grainfather). I would love to get a bit of a "how to" on what you did to complete the conversion.

The other alternative I have considered is the Robobrew by Keg King. Either way I think the proccess will be the same.

TIA
Hi Ken,
All I did was to purchase the correct plugs to fit the GF pump and heater inlet sockets. you can get the plugs from Jaycar $ 6.00 each. That's all you need to do. I like the GF over the Robo, just my opinion.
Cheers
 
tommy160 said:
Greetings from Denmark
I Can not wait to the package arrives.
hi i want to share my ideas.I have built my system with a heater from the stove see photo. 230V / 2000W 180 MM
I have a 10 mm thick aluminum plate in the pan and heater to distribute the heat.
Heater can raise a degree per min, with 25 liters of water in the pan. and is easy to clean than a tubular heating element.
and many thanks to lael. and all those who have contributed
http://www.nettoparts.dk/shop/komfurer-ovne-kogeplade-16c1.html
tommy160
Skide godt "Egon" !!! Do you use the pot from Storagrytor.se ? Marvelous idea :)
 
lael said:
Looks nice Tommy! Is that a standard electric plate or an induction plate? I've been wondering about the effectiveness of induction elements for these systems....
hi its a standard Electric plate.
 
freelander2002 said:
Skide godt "Egon" !!! Do you use the pot from Storagrytor.se ? Marvelous idea :)
The pot its from bergland24.de i plaid 89 euro. its a thermoport with lit 45x45cm ss 50L

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images9.jpg
 
Hi Tommy 160

Nice use of the element!
What is the energy density like as far as burning the mash where the plate is?
How well does the aluminium base spread the heat?
Do you use any kind of thermal compound either paste or sheet between the element and the pot?

James zwitter

I love the variations people come up with to solve the same problem.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 
hi Zwitter malt burnes only slightly on the one side of the pot when the bottom is very thin about 1-0,5mm it's hard to get aluminum plate level up to the bottom. and I have not been using thermpasta.
I think that the paste will help.
We goner brew beer on Saturday 12/12 when we are finished I will take a few pictures of the pan base.
 
Anyone got any tips on twisting the wires together and getting them into the crimps? (2.5mm2 cable) Just starting to wire mine now. Not having much luck with the twist.
 
I get this error message when I try to verify the new ArdBir version

Any clues please?

Arduino: 1.6.6 (Windows 7), Board: "Arduino/Genuino Mega or Mega 2560, ATmega2560 (Mega 2560)"

C:\Program Files\Arduino\arduino-builder -dump-prefs -logger=machine -hardware "C:\Program Files\Arduino\hardware" -tools "C:\Program Files\Arduino\tools-builder" -tools "C:\Program Files\Arduino\hardware\tools\avr" -built-in-libraries "C:\Program Files\Arduino\libraries" -libraries "C:\gparker\My Documents\home\Brewing\Controller Software\2.8\ArdBir_2_8_3RC8\libraries" -fqbn=arduino:avr:mega:cpu=atmega2560 -vid-pid=0X2341_0X0042 -ide-version=10606 -build-path "C:\Users\gparker\AppData\Local\Temp\build5732cc9fe57b74ebc3fec6365e4ea3fe.tmp" -warnings=none -prefs=build.warn_data_percentage=75 -verbose "C:\gparker\My Documents\home\Brewing\Controller Software\2.8\ArdBir_2_8_3RC8\ArdBir_2_8_3RC8.ino"
C:\Program Files\Arduino\arduino-builder -compile -logger=machine -hardware "C:\Program Files\Arduino\hardware" -tools "C:\Program Files\Arduino\tools-builder" -tools "C:\Program Files\Arduino\hardware\tools\avr" -built-in-libraries "C:\Program Files\Arduino\libraries" -libraries "C:\gparker\My Documents\home\Brewing\Controller Software\2.8\ArdBir_2_8_3RC8\libraries" -fqbn=arduino:avr:mega:cpu=atmega2560 -vid-pid=0X2341_0X0042 -ide-version=10606 -build-path "C:\Users\gparker\AppData\Local\Temp\build5732cc9fe57b74ebc3fec6365e4ea3fe.tmp" -warnings=none -prefs=build.warn_data_percentage=75 -verbose "C:\gparker\My Documents\home\Brewing\Controller Software\2.8\ArdBir_2_8_3RC8\ArdBir_2_8_3RC8.ino"
"C:\Program Files\Arduino\hardware\tools\avr/bin/avr-g++" -c -g -Os -w -std=gnu++11 -fno-exceptions -ffunction-sections -fdata-sections -fno-threadsafe-statics -w -x c++ -M -MG -MP -mmcu=atmega2560 -DF_CPU=16000000L -DARDUINO=10606 -DARDUINO_AVR_MEGA2560 -DARDUINO_ARCH_AVR "-IC:\Program Files\Arduino\hardware\arduino\avr\cores\arduino" "-IC:\Program Files\Arduino\hardware\arduino\avr\variants\mega" "C:\Users\gparker\AppData\Local\Temp\build5732cc9fe57b74ebc3fec6365e4ea3fe.tmp\sketch\ArdBir_2_8_3RC8.ino.cpp"
open NUL: The system cannot find the file specified.
Error compiling.
 
gap said:
I get this error message when I try to verify the new ArdBir version

Any clues please?

Arduino: 1.6.6 (Windows 7), Board: "Arduino/Genuino Mega or Mega 2560, ATmega2560 (Mega 2560)"
.
.
."C:\Users\gparker\AppData\Local\Temp\build5732cc9fe57b74ebc3fec6365e4ea3fe.tmp\sketch\ArdBir_2_8_3RC8.ino.cpp"
open NUL: The system cannot find the file specified.
Error compiling.
Where have you extracted the files within the 'ArdBir_2_8_3RC8.rar' file? Seems thats saying they are in some temp location?
Also, not sure why its looking for a cpp file with that name as there isnt one in the project with that file name (there is a Ardbir_2_8_3RC8.ino, but not a .ino.cpp)

I would try starting again by
- extracting the rar file to a dedicated folder on either your desktop or even better a folder in the root of C drive and
- open the Ardbir_2_8_3RC8.ino file from this folder
- re configure the params for board type, screen size and language within the Ardbir_2_8_3RC8 file
#define PCBType 1
#define LCDType 20
#define LCDLanguage 1
- Verify the project (tick symbol top right) to see if you get any errors

Should be as straight forward as that, then upload it to the device after verifying the correct port selection from Tools->Ports
 
Hi marksy
Big pliers.
Cut the wires long and then strip ends long then twist all together using pliers then cut to length. Sometimes after cutting may need a little twist to get all tight.
Then jam them in and crimp.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 
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