The Brauduino (Matho’s Controller) Build/Advice/Question Thread

[zwitter]

For anyone interested
I am planning to show how to swap pump relay for a small SSR.
Am going to use SY4080 from Jaycar but any can be used. As the relay is 12volt coil you will need an SSR that takes 12volt input to switch. The one I have chosen is a wide input range. Note also that there are DC versions that do not switch 240vac. So check the specs.

The one suggested is very straight forward to fit and switches up to 3A so all good for chugger, march etc but no good for DC pumps like LBP.

Will post with pics in a day or so.

Note this is really not required. If and only if you get LCD scrambling often would I suggest this be done. It also requires soldering and some electronics skill and practices.

Zwitter

James


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[gap]

Where have you extracted the files within the 'ArdBir_2_8_3RC8.rar' file? Seems thats saying they are in some temp location?
Also, not sure why its looking for a cpp file with that name as there isnt one in the project with that file name (there is a Ardbir_2_8_3RC8.ino, but not a .ino.cpp)
I would try starting again by
- extracting the rar file to a dedicated folder on either your desktop or even better a folder in the root of C drive and
- open the Ardbir_2_8_3RC8.ino file from this folder
- re configure the params for board type, screen size and language within the Ardbir_2_8_3RC8 file
#define PCBType 1
#define LCDType 20
#define LCDLanguage 1
- Verify the project (tick symbol top right) to see if you get any errors

Should be as straight forward as that, then upload it to the device after verifying the correct port selection from Tools->Ports

I had to download everything onto another PC and the upload worked first time.

Thanks for your help.

 

[real_beer]

Anyone got any tips on twisting the wires together and getting them into the crimps? (2.5mm2 cable) Just starting to wire mine now. Not having much luck with the twist.

I'm wiring my box up differently than others using these: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/111809213788?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I'm not wiring mine up until the Christmas holidays so I can't say anymore atm though.

 

[espreso]

I'm wiring my box up differently than others using these: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/111809213788?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I'm not wiring mine up until the Christmas holidays so I can't say anymore atm though.

Nice... those look easier than mine http://www.rapidonline.com/cables-connectors/helacon-wire-connectors-178109
These a B1tch :unsure: to remove once they're in but make the connections a 2 second job

 

[breakbeer]

Where exactly inside the box will you be using terminal blocks? I can't think of anywhere they'd be useful or even possible to use.

All connections either use a spade connector or ring/fork shaped connector

 

[SBOB]

Where exactly inside the box will you be using terminal blocks? I can't think of anywhere they'd be useful or even possible to use.

All connections either use a spade connector or ring/fork shaped connector

I imagine the plan is to use wires from the terminal blocks to single spade/ring connectors, instead of needing to daisy chain with multiple wires in each connector.

 

[real_beer]

I imagine the plan is to use wires from the terminal blocks to single spade/ring connectors, instead of needing to daisy chain with multiple wires in each connector.

Hit the nail on the head.

 

[Mardoo]

I like that idea a whooooooole lot. Electricians or others, any reason not to?

 

[SBOB]

I like that idea a whooooooole lot. Electricians or others, any reason not to?

only downside would be an increased number/length of AC cables in the box, but if you route them neatly and away from the DC/board there shouldnt be any increase in interference issues
It doesn't really have any electrical benefit and does cost more, but may be easier for some to wire (though it wont work for all cables, but could be handy for at least the earth connection as it branches to ~6 points, and possibly the main power active as it branches to ~4 points)

 

[zwitter]

Hi real beer

I would not use those in high current connections. They are usually for low current applications. Not saying no but make sure the connections are up to the job. Really the element connections should be short and well connected.

James


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[espreso]

Hi real beer

I would not use those in high current connections. They are usually for low current applications. Not saying no but make sure the connections are up to the job. Really the element connections should be short and well connected.

James


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

I hear you... mine are rated at 450v 24A. I'm running a 2kw element so well within my limits.

 

[gap]

I finally have lift off with my controller.

Thanks again to everybody for their help na especially to Lael for putting this kit project together.
The project is a great test of patience.

Regards

Graeme

 

[tommy160]

Hi Zwitter
update. from Saturday brewing after 1.5 hour boil whats no burned malt in bottom of pan. so it's a super resutat.

 

[lael]

Tommy, that looks great! How does your wort return work? Is that a BM 20L malt pipe?

 

[SBOB]

Tommy, that looks great! How does your wort return work? Is that a BM 20L malt pipe?

What lael said... possibly a build thread or post for inspiration for others

 

[tommy160]

pump pulls water up through the center of the pan.
yes it's BM 20 malt pipe.I bought it with the filter plates and grid plates.
link. https://www.maltbazaren.dk/shop/braumeister-20-l-198c1.html
unfortunately it is in Danish, but google translate is my friend

 

[barneey]

A couple of mods to my build, basically I have swapped out 3 of the sockets for the powercon true1's these can be connected / disconnected under load (had these in my spares box) (not too sure if the one supplied can or cant?) It also makes the use of crimp connectors easier as they have the 6.25mm spades on them.
It also means there is less chance of me getting the sockets confused.
Also worth a mention if you want to colour co ordinate things a little more the "body" of the supplied sockets can be swapped over.

Also thought about engraving the dust caps to identify the sockets.

 

[barneey]

Just finished wiring mine + a couple of other extras (a variable supply to the 2nd element & I will add another switch to on/off the dc supply to the ssr)

Again many thanks to Lael, James + all the others behind the scenes which made the project possible / happen


Cheers

 

[lael]

Just finished wiring mine + a couple of other extras (a variable supply to the 2nd element & I will add another switch to on/off the dc supply to the ssr)

Again many thanks to Lael, James + all the others behind the scenes which made the project possible / happen


Cheers

Nice work! How did you do the variable power to the second element?

 

[barneey]

The part number is CSR2-15E , not too sure how hot the thing will get without a bigger heat sink or how much noise it will make / if any further suppression is needed? (experimental idea)

The toggle switch is however IMHO a must for me, the idea both supplies are connected then with a simple toggle of two switches I can choose between either element / none at all or both.