Starting an Electric Brew control panel for AG brewing

Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum

Help Support Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
The ability to was nice. Don't need to though so I won't miss it.
 
Hey rockeye, could you link the transformer you used?
 
I have a spare one hanging around somewhere. I originally purchased two thinking I would need it. Don't think I'm ever going to use it. If I can find it I will cod post it 2 ya. Ie. Free transformer u pay the postage. I'll have a look around 2moz.
 
Or this is the exact one I used..
120922542058 eBay

If you are going to switch to a 5volt psu you should use these as isolators.
281463165342 eBay

My isolators are 5v in 5v out.
 
Or just keep your 12v supply and use these to isolate & step down to 5v to run you meters m.

290562102703
 
rockeye84 said:
Or this is the exact one I used..
120922542058 eBay

If you are going to switch to a 5volt psu you should use these as isolators.
281463165342 eBay

My isolators are 5v in 5v out.
Thanks for that. I just bought the power supply and 2x isolators. I grabbed one of the earlier listed isolators but they only had one.

It will be great to have this part of the panel finished.
 
So the brew is at a week and a half and its sitting at 1.024 and was that three days ago.. Thoughts?
 
warm it up, gently stir, add a little bit of boiled sugar solution as a kickstarter, and cross your fingers...
 
Might be a little more complex than that Matto.

What was the grain bill? Lager or Ale? Fermentation temps? Pitching rate?

All these will have an affect on rate and/or FG. For example my lager is at 2 weeks and is sitting around 1.019. Still has 9 points to go.

Ed: lest we forget yeast type and mash schedule. A consistently high FG could be the result of improper temperature measurement, which is definitely a risk with HERMS.
 
When the yeast was dumped at 18c the whole batch was accidentally cooled to 1c... Then it was brought slowly back to fermentation temps.

Maybe not all the yeast survived? The recipe was an American Pale Ale Citra (scaled up) from beersmith.
 
Probably a bit late but why not buy equipment that uses the same voltage instead of putting all that other crap in?
 
 
sjp770 said:
Another iBrew order arrived: copper immersion chiller which will double as Herm's coil for now, blichmann brewery gloves and a bronco tap for my first pour. I'll add a font and taps later.

Also bit the bullet and grabbed this Chronical 64L fermenter. :)
 

That fermenter is so blinging sweet. I want one but it has to be jacketed and I would have to sell the mother in law to buy it.
How much was that conical?
 
$799 :)

Maybe you want a brew bucket with jacket?
1404704519.png
 
WoW sjp770
That's fecking choice.
Do tell where to buy etc.
Is that jacketed with glycol cooling or just a insulating cover.
I wouldn't have room in a fermenting fridge for this. That's why jacket is a must.

Just found them. Unfortunately they don't do a 16 Gallon(60litre) FTS system but it wouldn't be difficult to do.
 
So I'm thoroughly confused. My hydrometer reads 1.009, my Refractometer reads 1.024...?? Weird.
 
That old chestnut.
The presence of alcohol will cause a false reading on a refractometer. Do a web search for 'Refractometer OG-alcohol correction' and check out the charts. Use these to find your true SG using a refractometer.
 
So what do I do now? If its at 1.009 and not moving after two weeks should a pitch another sachet of yeast or oxygenate it?
 

Latest posts

Back
Top