Show us your brewrig

[Lionman]

I put together a simple single vessel stove top system made from an adapted crab cooker.

As well as the 1/2" ball valve with cam lock disconnect, I have added a system for holding the inner basket above the wort.










I've done 4 batches of all grain now. One still on tap, one in the fermenter and one in the cube with one already filtered by my liver. So much more enjoyable than kits or extract.

I have also built a budget electric grain mill, works really well for BIAB. I run it off my drill and it eats through grain.

 

[Hawko777]

My 32 amp rig not long finished

 

[Benn]

Very nice, good job

 

[malt junkie]

I like that you've taken a slow and considered approach to the hobby

 

[goodbrew]

Nice work hawko, I am almost finished making my 'Electric Brewery' too, very similar setup except for the control panel, mine is more of a budget version compared to yours, no bells or whistles!!

Have you got to test it out yet?

 

[Hawko777]

Nice work hawko, I am almost finished making my 'Electric Brewery' too, very similar setup except for the control panel, mine is more of a budget version compared to yours, no bells or whistles!!

Have you got to test it out yet?

Hi Goodbrew
I have only done a wet test thus far but my first brew will be an American Citra IPA. ( Planned for a couple of days time )
Its going to take a few brews to get all of the settings and nuances sorted.

It has taken a while as noted by malt junkie, but I wanted it to be as right as possible, and I work away. So when I'm home, it's spent with the family and brewing when possible.
No doubt there will be tweeks and the March Stainless Pump Heads with 3/4" centre inlet and 1/2" out had to happen due to the volume needed to push wort through 20 metres of 1/2" copper coil.

I'm sure you'd be pleased with your setup once finished.
Happy Brewing

 

[Lionman]

I upgraded my rig to an electric element on the weekend and included some foam insulation.

 

[Thefatdoghead]

My 32 amp rig not long finished

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Hey mate nice setup. I was looking into the 32 amp but couldnt find much on power requirements for it.
Is it 240v with over a 32 amp breaker? What is the current draw at full load?
If so what size cable is run? Must be decent?

Gav

 

[mr_wibble]

Hey mate nice setup. I was looking into the 32 amp but couldnt find much on power requirements for it.
Is it 240v with over a 32 amp breaker? What is the current draw at full load?
If so what size cable is run? Must be decent?

32 amp needs a correct circuit on your house/shed/brew-cave, with appropriate circuit breaker (especially around water).
This requires significant standards-compliant wiring. The thickness of the cable also depends on the length of the run. If the run is longer, the cable tends to be thicker.

Also don't forget you probably want to run pumps, and secondary heaters, control panels, etc. So 32 amps is a minimum.
I had an electrician install a 25A/4500w power point, he used 4mm cable (IIRC) on a ~10 metre run. I use it only for my heating element and control box. Pumps etc. I run off another circuit. I should have had him put in another 10A circuit at the same time.

Drawing too much current over under-rated wires can lead to fires. I don't want to sound like your-mum, but: make sure it's wired properly.

 

[Thefatdoghead]

32 amp needs a correct circuit on your house/shed/brew-cave, with appropriate circuit breaker (especially around water).
This requires significant standards-compliant wiring. The thickness of the cable also depends on the length of the run. If the run is longer, the cable tends to be thicker.

Also don't forget you probably want to run pumps, and secondary heaters, control panels, etc. So 32 amps is a minimum.
I had an electrician install a 25A/4500w power point, he used 4mm cable (IIRC) on a ~10 metre run. I use it only for my heating element and control box. Pumps etc. I run off another circuit. I should have had him put in another 10A circuit at the same time.

Drawing too much current over under-rated wires can lead to fires. I don't want to sound like your-mum, but: make sure it's wired properly.

Ok, hang on, im confused.
Your saying you run 1 element on a 25A circuit breaker at 4500watts.
So basically you have the two 4500watt elements running to 2 separate 25amp circuit breakers?
Sorry if i sound stupid im just trying to understan how you supplying the heating elements.
Thanks

Gav

 

[malt junkie]

Ok, hang on, im confused.
Your saying you run 1 element on a 25A circuit breaker at 4500watts.
So basically you have the two 4500watt elements running to 2 separate 25amp circuit breakers?
Sorry if i sound stupid im just trying to understan how you supplying the heating elements.
Thanks

Gav

no switches between elements, so only one element can fire at a time.

 

[mr_wibble]

Ok, hang on, im confused.
Your saying you run 1 element on a 25A circuit breaker at 4500watts.
So basically you have the two 4500watt elements running to 2 separate 25amp circuit breakers?
Sorry if i sound stupid im just trying to understand how you supplying the heating elements.

Yeah, that's basically correct: 1 element using 4500 watts at 240 volts takes 18.75 amps (watts = volts x amps).
The circuit (wiring) needs to be able to handle this amount of current as a continuous load.

If I wanted to run more heaters simultaneously, then I would need the circuit to handle the correct amount of power.
So for 2x 4500 watt elements, I need a circuit to handle a continuous load of 37.5 amps (i.e: 2 x 18.75 amps), plus a little to spare.
Maybe there's a standard or maximum here, a sparky would know.

Of course it's possible to install two circuits and run a heater off each circuit.

EDIT> In the previous post I said I had a 25A point installed, actually it was only 20A. I am unable to edit that post at this later time.

 

[Thefatdoghead]

Yeah, that's basically correct: 1 element using 4500 watts at 240 volts takes 18.75 amps (watts = volts x amps).
The circuit (wiring) needs to be able to handle this amount of current as a continuous load.

If I wanted to run more heaters simultaneously, then I would need the circuit to handle the correct amount of power.
So for 2x 4500 watt elements, I need a circuit to handle a continuous load of 37.5 amps (i.e: 2 x 18.75 amps), plus a little to spare.
Maybe there's a standard or maximum here, a sparky would know.

Of course it's possible to install two circuits and run a heater off each circuit.

EDIT> In the previous post I said I had a 25A point installed, actually it was only 20A. I am unable to edit that post at this later time.

Ok so your running the one element at full load of 18.75 amps.
What volume do you boil and is it a decent boil?
Im looking at 110 litres to boil and I want to know if one 4.5kw element will be enough.

 

[Crusty]

Ok so your running the one element at full load of 18.75 amps.
What volume do you boil and is it a decent boil?
Im looking at 110 litres to boil and I want to know if one 4.5kw element will be enough.

Hey Gav.
Not trying to hijack the thread but in my opinion, one 4.5kw wont be enough.
I'm also installing a 32A system for my control panel from The Electric Brewery in the USA.
I'm running 2 x 5500w elements with a 3 way selector switch so only one element can operate at any given time.
2 x March pumps, one for the HLT circulation & the other for the mash running through the coil in the HLT.
The 5500w element is fine up to a maximum of a finished 20g batch as recommended by them over in the USA but I think you'll struggle getting a decent boil with your 4500w doing 110L & it'll take quite a while to get to the boil.

 

[Moad]

I have 8KW to boil ~150L pre boil... gets a pretty good boil going

 

[Crusty]

I have 8KW to boil ~150L pre boil... gets a pretty good boil going

Nice!

 

[mr_wibble]

Ok so your running the one element at full load of 18.75 amps.
What volume do you boil and is it a decent boil?
Im looking at 110 litres to boil and I want to know if one 4.5kw element will be enough.

I don't boil on electricity.
The 4500 is in my HLT (185 litre, but I typically run 80-100).
I have another element in the HERMS (3000 watt), but the controller switches only one element on at a time.

Crusty is right too, you'd want more power for a quicker boil start time.
But we only have single-phase power available, so 4500 watt is my household limit.

The guys at Romar Elements (in Victoria) can suggest a good element.
If you tell them what you want to do, they'll recommend the necessary element.
Mine should take 100 litres of water from ambient temperatures to boiling in around an hour.
Of course post-mash you're only going from high-60's to boiling, so it shouldn't take so long for the boil to start.

 

[Thefatdoghead]

Thanks for the info. Gives me a fair idea of where to go with the system plan.
Also i see the electric brewery runs the herms coil through the HLT.
Going to be better off with a smaller herms vessel? Better faster control hey?

 

[mr_wibble]

Separate Heat Exchange for me.
You're adjusting the temperature on less water.
My HX is ? Say 4-6 litres.

 

[Hawko777]

Hey mate nice setup. I was looking into the 32 amp but couldnt find much on power requirements for it.
Is it 240v with over a 32 amp breaker? What is the current draw at full load?
If so what size cable is run? Must be decent?

Gav

Hey Gav
1. Yes its a 240 v 32 amp system with 32 amp breaker and RCD protected
2. Amps with one element and both pumps going pulls about 23 amps.
Remember, just because your element says its 5500 watts, doesn't necessarily mean it is exactly that. I think mine are ACTUAL MEASURED at around 5200 watts.
3. Cable size is 6mm Flex twin and earth.
4. The GPO can also be used for 10, 15 20, 25 and 32 amp plugs. So you can use it for a welder if need be. Same flat pins and profile, apart from the 32 amp which has a special shaped earth pin.
Having a 32 amp system gives you that extra room too for spiking and not putting too much strain on a circuit. I also have breaker switches in the panel to protect the equipment

Try theelectricbrewery site, they have heaps of info.