Show us your brewrig

[brad81]

http://www.nationalmanufacturingweek.com.au/en/Exhibitors/80605/QHDC-Australia-Pty-Ltd/Products/527178/QHDC-Australia-Height-Adjustable-Castors

Might be what you are looking for.

 

[bradsbrew]

Jockey wheel?

 

[cat007]

Hmmm those adjustable castors look awesome - they also look expensive haha. I'll find out how much they're worth.

Cheers
Hunt

 

[Camo1234]

I bought my castors from supacheap. Just figure out the maximum weight you'll be putting on the stand (including the stand, and don't forget the MLT/HLT/kettle contents), and divide by the number of castors you want and round up to the nearest load rating.

Cheers! I thought each wheel needed to be rated at the total weight..! That will make the casters alot cheaper now!

 

[cat007]

Hi again.

Just wondering about hard vs soft lines for my 4V brew rig. I was going to use hard lines for the 80% of the lines that won't need to be moved and then some soft of soft (silicone) lines for the remainder 2 lines.

Then I just realised how much of a PITA the hard (stainless) lines/pipes will be to clean etc.

I know soft lines won't look as pretty - but in the grand scheme of things - they'll work just as well and are easier to clean.....?

What's everyone's thoughts on this? Is it worth using hard lines/pipes if only really for bling factor? Or should I just use soft lines?

 

[Logman]

I think a big factor is how easily you can hose out your brew area - I use all silicone and just push them onto barbs (no QD's) and spill a small amount each day - luckily there is a main drain outside the garage and I can hose it straight into there, if it went on the grass it would be a problem with ants etc eventually - same goes for cockroaches in the garage, I've only got to not hose a bit properly and they're in there like a shot.

If you're brewing on a patio or backyard pool area or anything like that I can see the value of hard lines for sure....

 

[TidalPete]

Does anyone have any genius and simple ideas to raise/lower a corner of their brew rig? My garage isn't flat and has ridges all over the show - so when I move it around the garage, or in summer when I brew outside, I'd like to be able to make sure that all 4 corner castors are adjusted so the rig is flat and level....

For my workbench I just used some M20 bolts and welded nuts to the legs so the head of the bolt is the foot - and I screw it up/down to make the bench level.

Not sure if this is the best way, or if it'll even work with castors though....??

Thoughts?

No reason why the bolt/welded nut combo won't work on your brewframe.I have a slanted garage floor (drainage) & used adjustable feet that fit into the ends of RHS framework for my storage along the walls http://www.google.com.au/search?q=adjustable+feet+for+cabinets&hl=en&tbo=u&tbm=isch&source=univ&sa=X&ei=qhsPUfPEAanBiQf7ioF4&ved=0CEgQsAQ&biw=1920&bih=945 which is just a fancy bolt & nut job.
A cheap & easy way out is a block of wood & a wedge. Fast to adjust but not pretty.

 

[cat007]

Yeah I think I'll just go the threaded rod welded to the castor and with a nut welded to the inside of the frame legs. Cheapest and easiest.

In regards to the hard/soft line question - if I have hard lines going to various items - lets say for example the MLT - how do you disconnect the hard line from the MLT as the hard line won't be able to be pulled away from the MLT.....?

 

[TidalPete]

Yeah I think I'll just go the threaded rod welded to the castor and with a nut welded to the inside of the frame legs. Cheapest and easiest.

In regards to the hard/soft line question - if I have hard lines going to various items - lets say for example the MLT - how do you disconnect the hard line from the MLT as the hard line won't be able to be pulled away from the MLT.....?

You would use ss unions to allow relatively quick separation from your ss lines, valves, etc for ease of cleaning.
My brew rig isn't hard-plumbed. I just use silicone hose with ss QD's which are reasonably cheap & convenient. Camlocks are good if you have the room for them.

 

[Camo1234]

OK guys... Playing around with a few design thoughts for the plumbing and I have come up with the below design.... I am a mechanical numb nut so feel free to point out issues with the design or ideas that would suit better.

I am building a single level system so need to pump everything around.... I am thinking of two pumps...

I am stuck on the line connections at the moment for the area that is circled in red in the diagram... I would like the HLT pump to be able to run through the line that goes to the HX but also to be able to shut it off and run the mash pump whilst cirulating during mash...i would also have another 3 way before this point where the mash pump would either pump straight up to the HX or go to the boiler during a fly sparge at which point the HLT pump would be running through the HX.

What would be the best plumbing for these 3 way points? Would a 3 way ball valve do the trick or is that just for splitting one line into 2 rather than deciding on which of two lines go into one??? (It sounds like it should work, just in reverse, but not sure if I am missing something?)

Keen to hear your thoughts on the set up and any suggested plumbing changes or what plumbing I should use for the 3 way connections?

Camo

 

[breakbeer]

Looks like more than 1 vessel to me, but I failed Maths

 

[Camo1234]

Looks like more than 1 vessel to me, but I failed Maths

Single level... Not single vessel.... But I failed English so not sure

 

[breakbeer]

bahahahaha, looks lyk eye need sum moar skoolin

 

[TidalPete]

Yeah I think I'll just go the threaded rod welded to the castor and with a nut welded to the inside of the frame legs. Cheapest and easiest.

In regards to the hard/soft line question - if I have hard lines going to various items - lets say for example the MLT - how do you disconnect the hard line from the MLT as the hard line won't be able to be pulled away from the MLT.....?

Forgot to mention ---- Welding the widest flat washer practicable to your bolt head should give more stability?

 

[hsb]

Here you go, alley oop


View attachment 60398

 

[gazeboar]

Man, these rigs are beautiful. I look at mine and smile, considering that my entire rig consists of a Birko urn, strainer and a thirty dollar utility cart :lol:

 

[MastersBrewery]

Man, these rigs are beautiful. I look at mine and smile, considering that my entire rig consists of a Birko urn, strainer and a thirty dollar utility cart :lol:

yeah but it makes Beer don't it!!

 

[gazeboar]

yeah but it makes Beer don't it!!

It sure as hell does I like the simplicity. Maybe I can do one of these three vessel systems further on down the track as a fun project.

 

[hsb]

Does anyone here have a chilling coil permanently fitted in their kettle? I'm thinking of putting one in mine, with compression fittings. (So I could take it for a good clean now and then.)
I no chill for a lot of beers but would chill anything hop-forward like IPAs, ESB's etc.

I just wondered if there's any downside to having all that (stainless) tubing full of air inside the kettle, does it effect the boil negatively?

I would just leave the coil in/out open, no valves, can't see a need. I would just hook up the hose at the bottom and run tubing back to my HLT from the out to reuse the water for clean-up.
I'd prefer a permanent setup so I can fine-tune my whirlpooling, and it's not like I'll be using the coil anywhere else, so might as well plumb it in permanently.

I seem to recall donburke might have one that you don't use? Any downsides? Just taking stock before taking the plunge and drilling holes in my lovely kettle.

 

[razz]

I thought about it before changing my chilling routine hsb, I can't see any problem with having one in the kettle as you see it. http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/hot-liquor-tank
This is a pretty good set up if you need some ideas.