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Ouch HSB, that would infuriate me.

Sorry to hear that. I hope you get things fixed up without too much hassle
 
His response has been to stonewall with "it was fine when i left it", inferring I've somehow ruined the thread myself.
That's what's made me most angry. H

He made a mess the first time with the first one and returned a week later with a tapping tool to 'fix it'
Now he claims its all fine when clearly there was a problem. He ruined the thread welding it from the inside.

It wasn't Phil Jones, whoever that is, I'll name and shame - with pictures - tomorrow.
Still totally fuming. My kettle now has two shit sockets attached for just $180.

What recourse do I have? Sweet fa I'm assuming. I have his ABN/personal details and plenty of evidence. But all I can do is make plain the quality of the work and service provided I guess.
 
hsb said:
Looks like I've just been fleeced on two welded sockets.
I was unable to stay until the end of the job, had to leave someone else to pay.

When I return, the internal threads in both sockets are useless. One doesn't even accept a fitting of any kind.

Called the 'provider' who claims everything is fine. Refuses to enter into discussion that there is a problem. And is now ignoring calls.

One of the fittings, they'd grinded away the compression fitting to try and shoehorn it in there and left it perched without any thread bite.

So angry right now, out of pocket, and left with a butchered kettle. Totally furious!

Giving a final chance before I name and shame and look into what action I can take.
This shit really pisses me off & it's so darn common these days.
Name & shame if they want to ignore your calls.
Hope you get it sorted.
 
just had some welding done myself on an old 18 gal keg recently, after grinding it all back with a flap disc I have a few pin holes, so will be returning early next week to get them to touch it up with a weld or 2, saying that is was the internal weld that had 3 or 4 pin holes .... external weld was A1. Let you guys know how it turns out.

edit: Typo ... too much samplin the wares I thinks
 
I'm with Cocko. Phil Jones is the gift that keeps giving. The fact good old Phil wasn't the culprit on this occasion doesn't matter. Don Burke, come on down and tell hsb about phil.
 
thats fucked it is not that hard to weld in sockets get it fixed some were and send him the bill
 
MastersBrewery said:
That urn looks like a little bit of over kill for sparg water, though the extra is probably useful for cleanup, nice setup, very tidy
It's the urn from my BIAB days. Works a treat. I heat up all my water on a timer then transfer into the BM. Left over water goes into sparge.
 
Crusty said:
It does but the temp correction will be much quicker.
Too large a volume of hex water results in too slow a ramp speed. The smaller the volume the better.
So what's people's thought on the best volume for your HEX?
 
hsb said:
His response has been to stonewall with "it was fine when i left it", inferring I've somehow ruined the thread myself.
That's what's made me most angry. H

He made a mess the first time with the first one and returned a week later with a tapping tool to 'fix it'
Now he claims its all fine when clearly there was a problem. He ruined the thread welding it from the inside.

It wasn't Phil Jones, whoever that is, I'll name and shame - with pictures - tomorrow.
Still totally fuming. My kettle now has two shit sockets attached for just $180.

What recourse do I have? Sweet fa I'm assuming. I have his ABN/personal details and plenty of evidence. But all I can do is make plain the quality of the work and service provided I guess.
$180.00 is a lot of money,takes a long time to earn a spare $180.00,tradies etc who DO NOT back their work aint worth shit.
name and shame them.harsh,yes but giving a fck takes but a moment of your time and pays dividends...cheers..spog..
 
Wolfman said:
So what's people's thought on the best volume for your HEX?
The smallest volume you can fit your coil into. Less water the quicker it heats up when the element cuts in, and less thermal mass means less overshoot.
 
hsb said:
His response has been to stonewall with "it was fine when i left it", inferring I've somehow ruined the thread myself.
That's what's made me most angry. H

He made a mess the first time with the first one and returned a week later with a tapping tool to 'fix it'
Now he claims its all fine when clearly there was a problem. He ruined the thread welding it from the inside.

It wasn't Phil Jones, whoever that is, I'll name and shame - with pictures - tomorrow.
Still totally fuming. My kettle now has two shit sockets attached for just $180.

What recourse do I have? Sweet fa I'm assuming. I have his ABN/personal details and plenty of evidence. But all I can do is make plain the quality of the work and service provided I guess.
http://www.badtradie.com.au/
 
bradsbrew said:
Nev's coil in a 1.7L $8 kettle works well.
How do you find the temperature stability with that? When I was testing my HERMS controller I used a 1.7L kettle and with a 2.4KW element it proved a very unruly beast to try and tune the PID. Way over powered. I know that with the coil and the constant heat exchange with the wort would change that, but I still think a larger mass of water or a smaller element would be more stable... keen to hear your experience with it though.
 
Bonj said:
How do you find the temperature stability with that? When I was testing my HERMS controller I used a 1.7L kettle and with a 2.4KW element it proved a very unruly beast to try and tune the PID. Way over powered. I know that with the coil and the constant heat exchange with the wort would change that, but I still think a larger mass of water or a smaller element would be more stable... keen to hear your experience with it though.
It can under and over shoot by 1 or 2 deg during the recirc but this is only for a short time, less than a minute, where 35-40L of wort is being circulated through the mash. So i cant see the short term temp readings effecting the whole mash temp.

Cheers
 
Im using a 2/3 full Big W pot, ghetto style, my overshoot is about 0.3'c - 0.4'c reliably, hence Im still using an STC-1000 and havnt felt the need to go PID. Mash tun temps when ramping are generally 1'c - 2'c behind and I get ramp times of about 1'c per 70 seconds.. all in all, within cooee of other smaller blinger systems.. close enough for me not to rebuild/buy better/other.

It may have something to do with the proximity of the immersion element sitting right in the middle of the copper coil.. dunno why it works so well, just know Im happy with it.

it was looking a little tarnished on the weekend so I set up 10 lt of starsan and recirculated that for an hour.. damn near looks brand new. ;)

:icon_cheers:
 
There has been content on the bad tradies site before. It is most commonly used as a means for getting tradies to behave themselves, fix their dodgy work, or apologise for being jerks. If he won't fix his dodgy work, put him up on bad tradies and watch him squirm... then offer to remove it if he plays nice this time.
 
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