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Ok so the wood is just held on by the tension of the colourbond straps? No glue holding the wood on?

Looks very nice! I would suspect hed used some temporary strapping/rope to hold them all in place then go the tigther colourbond straps to fix it all into place? Awesome job - some closer brew p0rn piccies required in this thread me thinks.
 
Looks very nice! I would suspect hed used some temporary strapping/rope to hold them all in place then go the tigther colourbond straps to fix it all into place? Awesome job - some closer brew p0rn piccies required in this thread me thinks.


yep raven right onto it
 
Lots of valves. It based on an inlet and outlet manifold connected to the inlet and outlet side of the pump. This allows me to transfer liquid from any place to any place. There are also to long tubes on each manifold that reach nearly to the ground that are for draing and cleaning purpose.

The wood acts as an insulator. It is held in place with two stainless steel bands and are tightened quite tight. The wood (Jarrah) is heavily varnished with marine grade varnish on all sides.

Ther 2nd hand stainless bench was a lucky find. The burner side was already in place and required only minor modification. It originally held a wok / wok burner, now holds the kettle.
 
The wood acts as an insulator. It is held in place with two stainless steel bands and are tightened quite tight. The wood (Jarrah) is heavily varnished with marine grade varnish on all sides.

Interested to know how you went about tightening the bands. Maybe you could throw a pic up if that would explain it better?
 
This is a nice and tidy brewery Tim. I like it.

I thought I would share a pic of my current brewery. Having started out on a ghetto bucket of death system and then going up to a 3V 60L setup, I have simplified things now and moved towards a single vessel brewery with a removable lauter tun (currently a 20L bucket with a perforated bottom, will upgrade to stainless soon) for full volume mashing aka BIAB style. All up the bits and pieces here probably are pushing towards making a braumeister look economical, but I have been accumulating this stuff over the last 10 years.

Aside form the lauter tun, I still need to tidy up the wiring and potentially put a PID based temp controller for recirculated mashing but as always its work in process and light years ahead of my old bucket and esky system (although that did produce some great beer)

Tim

W0Jrel.jpg
 
I thought I would share a pic of my current brewery. Having started out on a ghetto bucket of death system and then going up to a 3V 60L setup, I have simplified things now and moved towards a single vessel brewery with a removable lauter tun (currently a 20L bucket with a perforated bottom, will upgrade to stainless soon) for full volume mashing aka BIAB style. All up the bits and pieces here probably are pushing towards making a braumeister look economical, but I have been accumulating this stuff over the last 10 years.

Aside form the lauter tun, I still need to tidy up the wiring and potentially put a PID based temp controller for recirculated mashing but as always its work in process and light years ahead of my old bucket and esky system (although that did produce some great beer)
Tim

W0Jrel.jpg
Tim where did you get your stand from?,I love it!
 
It's got hospital written all over it!
 
This is how I worked out how to tighten straps around the mash tun. The photo says it all.

Ockey straps to do the temporary hold then get a couple of 150mm hose clamps from Pirtec or similar and rivet the stainless strap onto the fittings. Posted a "how to" with pics years ago - will try and find it.

Wes
 
Ockey straps to do the temporary hold then get a couple of 150mm hose clamps from Pirtec or similar and rivet the stainless strap onto the fittings. Posted a "how to" with pics years ago - will try and find it.

Wes

That'l work. I used strapping as a temporary hold, the stuff they use to tie down pallets, you can do that stuff up really tight. But for permanent, coiling the ends of strap around around a dowell and using a threaded rod to pull them together means you get them super tight.
 
That'l work. I used strapping as a temporary hold, the stuff they use to tie down pallets, you can do that stuff up really tight. But for permanent, coiling the ends of strap around around a dowell and using a threaded rod to pull them together means you get them super tight.

Here's a pretty good HOW TO I found on the intertwizzle.
It even explains how to calculate the correct bevel angles on the staves.
Can't wait to get home because I'M PIMPING MY PORTAKEG WITH WOOD BABY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

BOOYA!
 
Here's a pretty good HOW TO I found on the intertwizzle.
It even explains how to calculate the correct bevel angles on the staves.
Can't wait to get home because I'M PIMPING MY PORTAKEG WITH WOOD BABY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

BOOYA!

The 'staves' in this case are Jarrah parquetry tiles. They are already chamfered but not enough for the mash tun. I used a router mounted in a router table and the correct bit to chamfer them to the correct angle. Then, using the router table again I routered a wide, but shallow trench (maybe 5mm deep only) down the centre back of each piece so it hugs the circumference.
 
The 'staves' in this case are Jarrah parquetry tiles. They are already chamfered but not enough for the mash tun. I used a router mounted in a router table and the correct bit to chamfer them to the correct angle. Then, using the router table again I routered a wide, but shallow trench (maybe 5mm deep only) down the centre back of each piece so it hugs the circumference.

Sweet. Good idea on the parquetry tiles.
I have a bunch of spotted gum floorboards. I plan to machine them a bit thinner, then rip them into maybe 3 staves per board.
Hopefully it should fit snugly on the 6mm yoga mat that I'll wrap around the portakeg.
 
Here's the progress of my herms HLT, dressed up with 400 grit wet and dry ready for the final buff.
After 6 weeks of design, counter design, experimentation with jigs and tools etc. I can finally see light at the end of the tunnel
HLT_2.JPG
 

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Here's the progress of my herms HLT, dressed up with 400 grit wet and dry ready for the final buff.
After 6 weeks of design, counter design, experimentation with jigs and tools etc. I can finally see light at the end of the tunnel
View attachment 57313

Ok, so we have, Sight glass and bracket.

Out tap and Thermometer above it?

WTF are the other 2 for on a HLT?

Looks nice BTW!
 
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