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wow that's cool!

how much did something like that set you back?
and do you have a link?
 
Hi Cocko,

I'm about to put together and electric kettle and want to include sockets on the conduit boxes like you've done. Did you source those sockets (C14, I think?) anywhere in particular? The IEC standard rates them for 10A at 70c, so I'm wondering if there'd be overheating issues with it drawing that current for extended periods of time, in close proximity to the hot elements? C15/C16 is rated for 120c so might be a better bet, but I don't have a heap of derelict equipment with those connections lying around to be cannibalised (plenty of stuff I can rip a C14 socket off, though).

Also, are those boxes waterproofed?

Cheers.

Hey Squirt,

I sourced all the parts from Jaycar, I have no idea of the ratings and/or what the 'C' number references you are making, sorry.

I can tell you they don't melt. I was going to go the aluminum boxes, as you will find in a post from QLD Kev in one of the element threads but figured if the box was going to conduct heat, metal would be worse....

Sorry I can't help more, I am sure some knowledgeable chap will jump in and assist!

Cheers



EDIT: Clutch, please post pics of actual unit when it arrives! Well done on the purchase... may it heal your wounds and make great beer!
 
Mate, that is a very tidy looking rig! Fecking awesome.



Good stuff PF!

My next step:

Stand painted, control box mounted and wired [For now]... HX will be made up in the coming months...

For now:

View attachment 55653

3x 2400w inside kettle:

View attachment 55654

Went hard plumbed MT:

View attachment 55655


And please excuse the blur - but for those days when you need to fly sparge with only one pump:

View attachment 55656


Stay tuned for final HERMS config.

:icon_cheers:
 
I sourced all the parts from Jaycar, I have no idea of the ratings and/or what the 'C' number references you are making, sorry.

I can tell you they don't melt. I was going to go the aluminum boxes, as you will find in a post from QLD Kev in one of the element threads but figured if the box was going to conduct heat, metal would be worse....

On the flip side mate, my big bertha kettle had the plastic boxes housing the electrics, and they started to soften - so I went aluminum boxes. Yes they get warm, but work a treat for me now.

My elements are 2400W ceramics which hold a lot of heat (low density), a large contribvuting factor in my metal housing choice.
 
On the flip side mate, my big bertha kettle had the plastic boxes housing the electrics, and they started to soften - so I went aluminum boxes. Yes they get warm, but work a treat for me now.

My elements are 2400W ceramics which hold a lot of heat (low density), a large contribvuting factor in my metal housing choice.

Good to know mate, thanks for that.

Any pics? Also, how did you pic up on the plastic ones softening? Touch, I assume.. but how soft were they?

With the metals ones getting warm, wouldn't the plastic socket be copping a bit too?
 
Thread here mate: Raven's Kettle

Post 31 shows current aluminium boxes - still get warm but the IEC plugs work a treat - does not seem to soften at all.

I was finding the plastic box was softening at the base - charring even after long boils!
 
My new 3 tier/3V rig is starting to come together a little messy but I'll get there. My Dad had some spare Gal pipe laying around so managed to end up with the stand for near nothing.... :)

IMG_0854.JPG
 
...
With the metals ones getting warm, wouldn't the plastic socket
be copping a bit too?
If you want to put an IEC appliance inlet on the metal wiring
junction box, you'd need one rated for high temperature
- a C16 one like THIS one (ref. IEC-320 Appliance Connectors)
rated for up to 120C - even better would be a C16A one but
you'd have to order from overseas (e.g. here) which is
rated for 155C.

Or if you can get some silicon mains flex, use that to join to the
element conductors & earth and pass it thru a metal cable gland
(see BA members' gallery - you know where that is ;) ).
 
If you want to put an IEC appliance inlet on the metal wiring
junction box, you'd need one rated for high temperature
- a C16 one like THIS one (ref. IEC-320 Appliance Connectors)
rated for up to 120C - even better would be a C16A one but
you'd have to order from overseas (e.g. here) which is
rated for 155C.

Or if you can get some silicon mains flex, use that to join to the
element conductors & earth and pass it thru a metal cable gland
(see BA members' gallery - you know where that is ;) ).

Thanks heaps mate! The gland looks awesome but I don't want leads hanging off my pot....

:icon_cheers:


@ Cambrew- looking good mate! - got any more pics?
 
Thanks heaps mate! The gland looks awesome but I don't want leads hanging off my pot....

:icon_cheers:


@ Cambrew- looking good mate! - got any more pics?

That is it for now but I will probably put some more up when I do my first batch. :icon_cheers:
 
I originally was just going to be relying completely on gravity and just using simple step infusions like usual but I have recently bought one of those brown pumps and have considered setting it up to recirculate the mash through my urn to increase temps through the mash schedule. Has any one else done anything like this before and without any temperature control?
 
What do you guys use for heating? I see a lot of electric rigs. Is that something that is better than gas or just more convenient/cheaper?

I was looking at gas, but can find info on the output required for a pot the size of the craft brewer 70l?

Any help?
 
What do you guys use for heating? I see a lot of electric rigs. Is that something that is better than gas or just more convenient/cheaper?

I was looking at gas, but can find info on the output required for a pot the size of the craft brewer 70l?

Any help?

Electric is cheaper to run and probably about the same price to purchase, but you will have to get advice on what elements would suite as I use a 4 ring burner for my boiler.
 
italian spiral burner. A 3 or 4 ring would work with a adjustable regulator but spiral is the way to go or the big jet burners if you want to waste heaps of gas and get it to boil faster
 
italian spiral burner. A 3 or 4 ring would work with a adjustable regulator but spiral is the way to go or the big jet burners if you want to waste heaps of gas and get it to boil faster

I like to waste heaps of gas and be boiling at the drop of a hat
 
Well after toying with many different ideas I have settled (for now) with a simple BIAB rig with an extra bolt on frame to allow the bag to be attached and drain while I am in a rental. It isnt finished yet with a shelf to be added to the base and a few layers of stain to be added. Just bashing out a batch of American Amber Ale for my pending Wedding to test it out aswell.

20120713_195740_resize.jpg
 
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