Ringwood Ale Yeast

[hazard]

That's far from 1060>12, that yeast does not attenuate that far, open for correction. 41>08 tick the box 53>10 hmmmm 60>12 ???

Haysie, not far at all if my maths is correct
41->8 = 80%, 53 -> 10 = 81%
Therefore, according to my calculation, not far from 60 -> 12 at all.
So Stubby has achieved same attenuation as me. Why do you say that Ringwood won't attenuate that far?

As for question in other post "How did I do it"
1. Lots of break material in the fermenter - I tip the whole wort through a kitchen sieve, I guess the hops will filter a lot, but some must get through
2. regular beating for first 2 days
3. constant temp
4. olive oil (refer earlier post)
5. big starter - a smack pack into 1.5L of wort @ 1040
6. fresh yeast
BTW - I wasn't aiming for this level of attenuation - it just happened.

 

[Stubbie]

BTW - I wasn't aiming for this level of attenuation - it just happened.

Me neither. <_<

Haysie,
I was really surprised at my FG's, so much so I grabbed a spare hydrometer, a new one, for a second opinion. Identical readings.

Stubbie

 

[Bribie G]

A question for the rousers and beaters:

So if you don't reoxygenate ringwood with a few rousings and beatings at the start of the ferment, do you find the yeast just quits before target FG has been reached?

I remember I brewed with landlord a few years ago and the ferment just completely died in the arse around 3/4ths of the way through.

I did a stout on Ringwood recently and only thrashed it for one day and the bloddy thing blooped every thirty seconds for about ten days but turned out ok in the end. My latest Mild got whacked twice a day for two days and has finished and clearing from the top in only 5 days. As far as I have found, the early oxygenation is very desirable.

 

[hoppinmad]

Dr. Smurto put me onto this yeast for a stout i made a while ago and i have to say it is now one of my favorites. I have however found you need to be a little patient when priming a beer fermented with it. Some of mine have taken over a month to get properly carbed and never less than 3 weeks (even in a warm room). The first lot i made was still flat after 3 weeks which prompted me to re-prime half the batch... only to find a month later the original bottles were pefectly carbonated... so yeah... don't make the same silly mistake i did

 

[Kodos]

Does anyone know how the White Labs ringwood strain (WLP005 British Ale Yeast) compares to the Wyeast version?

The website has audio of the White Labs president saying it's the Ringwood strain but it's been trained to bottom ferment - so does this mean there's no need to give it a BribieG-style thrashing?

My first brew with it was clear as mud, some gelatine and PVPP (following instructions taken of this website) cleared it up beautifully but there a fair bit of fluffy sediment still made it into the bottles (I bulk prime, so thought I'd left most of that stuff behind), tastes great but if the sediment gets disturbed it looks a little odd.

It fermented from 1048 down to 1013 after about a week.

The cloudiness might relate to forgetting whifloc in the boil. I did crash cool for 2 weeks at 0-2 in the fermenter (with dry-hops) but this didn't seem to help.

I used a sterile water wash to save four stubbies of the yeast cake from primary, (1cm of slurry at the bottom of each stubby) hope to do another brew with it in a week or so. Incidentally, the yeast dropped out beautifully in the stubbies - crystal clear after a week in the fridge.

 

[buttersd70]

Dr. Smurto put me onto this yeast for a stout i made a while ago and i have to say it is now one of my favorites. I have however found you need to be a little patient when priming a beer fermented with it. Some of mine have taken over a month to get properly carbed and never less than 3 weeks (even in a warm room). The first lot i made was still flat after 3 weeks which prompted me to re-prime half the batch... only to find a month later the original bottles were pefectly carbonated... so yeah... don't make the same silly mistake i did

Treat the bottles similar to the fermenter; rouse it often to keep the yeast in suspension, instead of on the bottom of the bottles.

Does anyone know how the White Labs ringwood strain (WLP005 British Ale Yeast) compares to the Wyeast version?

The website has audio of the White Labs president saying it's the Ringwood strain but it's been trained to bottom ferment - so does this mean there's no need to give it a BribieG-style thrashing?

My first brew with it was clear as mud, some gelatine and PVPP (following instructions taken of this website) cleared it up beautifully but there a fair bit of fluffy sediment still made it into the bottles (I bulk prime, so thought I'd left most of that stuff behind), tastes great but if the sediment gets disturbed it looks a little odd.

It fermented from 1048 down to 1013 after about a week.

The cloudiness might relate to forgetting whifloc in the boil. I did crash cool for 2 weeks at 0-2 in the fermenter (with dry-hops) but this didn't seem to help.

I used a sterile water wash to save four stubbies of the yeast cake from primary, (1cm of slurry at the bottom of each stubby) hope to do another brew with it in a week or so. Incidentally, the yeast dropped out beautifully in the stubbies - crystal clear after a week in the fridge.

Fluffy sediment could be indicative of too high a dose with the finings. Less is more.

 

[Kodos]

Fluffy sediment could be indicative of too high a dose with the finings. Less is more.

Thanks butters, any tips on where to read up on appropriate amounts? I was going off the instructions here: (Gelatine) and (PVPP), also probably based the latter on Al Korzonas's Homebrewing - volume I which suggests 3-5grams (4-6 teaspoons) of PVPP per 5 gallons.

next time hopefully I won't need any finings.

 

[Bribie G]

I have put Ringwood beers into comps with only a couple of weeks to spare and they have carbed up by simply up-ending the bottles twice a day. I'm currently carbing two bottles of a Best Bitter by sending them in the mail to Adelaide :lol: :lol: - should get them started off on the right track.

 

[buttersd70]

kodos,
I was referring to the geletine, not the pvpp. Specific dosing rates are hard to determine...it depends on the volume to be treated, as well as the amount of yeast that is actually in suspension, and also the way it's administered. The guide that you linked to is a very good guide, but it is only a guide. Some use less (in the discussion thread iirc there are several ppl that say they use half the amount), some use the amount in the guide. Personally...I use 1 1/2, myself...but I fine as soon as it's cold, so it has a fairly large amount still in suspension at that point. If cold crashing for longer before fining with geletine (or if using a high flocc yeast), you will have less yeast in suspension, and therefore less geletine is required...it really comes down to trial and error, using the rates in the guide as a starting point. Too little, and it will be hard to clear, too much, and it will have fluffy sediment. Given that you have fluffy sediment when using that rate, I would be looking at using slightly less, say 1 1/2 tsp, then if still a problem drop it to 1 tsp. I wouldn't change your other process to match your fining rate; but rather change your fining rate to match your process/yeast strain/amount of yeast in suspension.

 

[Bizier]

Oh, I forgot to mention that I have had problems with it looking finished at a gravity like 1.010 or whatever and then deciding to kick off again in the bottle. Spritzy mild ales are not my thing... It pays to make sure that Ringwood has finished its job completely.

 

[Kai]

I did a stout on Ringwood recently and only thrashed it for one day and the bloddy thing blooped every thirty seconds for about ten days but turned out ok in the end. My latest Mild got whacked twice a day for two days and has finished and clearing from the top in only 5 days. As far as I have found, the early oxygenation is very desirable.

Thanks Bribie, I'll bear that in mind.

 

[rude]

jeez Im excited this sounds like a really good yeast.
Hope I can pull off a good fermentation havent got fridge control but the whether is just warming up here in perth so hopefully Ill be able to hold it at 19 - 20 c.
Some great tips here cheers Bribie & others for comming fwd with there knowledge otherwise it would take me a lot longer to make a good beer.

 

[rude]

here is Type: All Grain

Date: 27/08/2009Batch Size: 25.00 L

Brewer: RudeBoil Size: 30.11 LAsst Brewer: Boil Time: 90 min Equipment: My Equipment Taste Rating(out of 50): 35.0 Brewhouse Efficiency: 75.00Taste Notes:

Ingredients​

AmountItemType% or IBU3.20 kgPale Malt (2 Row) UK (5.9 EBC)Grain79.21 %0.44 kgCaramel/Crystal Malt - 60L (118.2 EBC)Grain10.89 %0.25 kgBlack (Patent) Malt (985.0 EBC)Grain6.19 %0.15 kgWheat, Flaked (3.2 EBC)Grain3.71 %25.00 gmChallenger [7.50 %] (60 min)Hops20.7 IBU18.00 gmGoldings, East Kent [5.00 %] (10 min)Hops3.6 IBU1.00 itemsWhirlfloc Tablet (Boil 10.0 min)Misc1.00 tspYeast Nutrient (Primary 3.0 days)Misc​

my mild go hope it doesnt end up spritzy

 

[rude]

sorry about the horizontal post not sure how to paste beer smith vertical like others

 

[muckey]

jeez Im excited this sounds like a really good yeast.

got a best bitter in the fermenter at the moment. bramling / styrian and ringwood yeast. Is almost finished and ready for secondary conditioning.
hydro sample at 1016 smelt and tasted absolutely devine.

Love that ringwood!!

 

[rude]

Hey mucky care to post youre bitter recipe
cheers rude

 

[Ross]

One of the most used (commercially) yeasts in the USA.

Guess what yeast Dogfish Head use B)

Cheers Ross

 

[matti]

A question for the rousers and beaters:

So if you don't reoxygenate ringwood with a few rousings and beatings at the start of the ferment, do you find the yeast just quits before target FG has been reached?

I remember I brewed with landlord a few years ago and the ferment just completely died in the arse around 3/4ths of the way through.

pretty much.
Ringwood Yeast Loves Oxygen as it is a Hybrid yeast.
Because it attenuates so well it is important to give a good rouse and it is worth to give the fermenter a shake after 4 or 5 days especially if the temperatur drop by a couple of degrees.

Luv that yeast even if only used it 3 times thus far.

 

[chucke]

Yeah, Ringwood does love the Oxygen-

I never plug/airlock the carboys with this one- just sterilized tin foil.

 

[muckey]

Hey mucky care to post youre bitter recipe
cheers rude

I actually got it from butters and he's welcome to post it if he wants. I asked him for a recipe and he put it together based on some thoughts he'd had about TTL type beers.