Pressure Relief Valve.

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01. EmptyB x 4
02. 3StringCigar x1
03. pommycol x2
04. Fleabag x 3
05. Dan walker x 2
06. Moonhead x 3
07. Weizenbonk x 3
08. Danscraftbeer X 2
09. Belgrave Brewer x 4
10. blotto x 2
11. HaveFun x 2
12. Gazza 1958 x 2
13. Poacher x 2
14. PTG x 3
15. Lonte x 2
16. theSeekerr x 2
17. swarve x 1
 
01. EmptyB x 4
02. 3StringCigar x1
03. pommycol x2
04. Fleabag x 3
05. Dan walker x 2
06. Moonhead x 3
07. Weizenbonk x 3
08. Danscraftbeer X 2
09. Belgrave Brewer x 4
10. blotto x 2
11. HaveFun x 2
12. Gazza 1958 x 2
13. Poacher x 2
14. PTG x 3
15. Lonte x 2
16. theSeekerr x 2
17. swarve x 1
18.MikeyR x 2
 
01. EmptyB x 4
02. 3StringCigar x1
03. pommycol x2
04. Fleabag x 3
05. Dan walker x 2
06. Moonhead x 3
07. Weizenbonk x 3
08. Danscraftbeer X 2
09. Belgrave Brewer x 4
10. blotto x 2
11. HaveFun x 2
12. Gazza 1958 x 2
13. Poacher x 2
14. PTG x 3
15. Lonte x 2
16. theSeekerr x 2
17. swarve x 1
18.MikeyR x 2
19.Schooner_downunder × 2
 
Hey guys. Seeing as you guys are all talking about spunding valves i was wondering if you could give us some advice on which option you guys would prefer. I dont think we will stock both optoins so we will either stock option 1 or option 2.

We have started to manufactur a stainless spunding valve and we have completed the testing but we are trying to work out if we make them with 8mm push in or make them with FFL thread so they fit onto the MFL disconnects. If we use the 8mm push in we can configure them in many different ways as we have a growing number of push in fittings that we are making at the moment.

Option 1
As you can see below option 1 is so you can attach the stainless spunding valve directly to the disconnect. This will be the cheapest option as the spunding valve will sell for about $9.95 and the ball lock disconnects we currently sell the for about $3 each. The issue is that you dont know what pressure it's set to.
spunding%20valve%20to%20go%20directly%20onto%20the%20MFL%20ball%20lock%20disconnect-01.jpg


Option 2
We make the stainless spunding valve with 8mm push in so you would be able to hook this up as shown below. The push in fittings are nice because they are easier to take apart and clean. This whole assembly below would cost about $22 in comparison. (this would include the disconnect, the duotight to FFL fitting, the duotight tee piece, spunding valve with 8mm push in and the 8mm push in dial.
spunding%20valve%20with%208mm%20push%20in%20to%20go%20into%20other%20push%20in%20fittings-01.jpg



I should also say that in the future we will also have a diaphram spunding valve available too which is about 2-3 months away and the advantage of a diaphram style spunding valve is the set pressure is far more accurate but this would be about $30.
 
Hey guys. Seeing as you guys are all talking about spunding valves i was wondering if you could give us some advice on which option you guys would prefer. I dont think we will stock both optoins so we will either stock option 1 or option 2.

We have started to manufactur a stainless spunding valve and we have completed the testing but we are trying to work out if we make them with 8mm push in or make them with FFL thread so they fit onto the MFL disconnects. If we use the 8mm push in we can configure them in many different ways as we have a growing number of push in fittings that we are making at the moment.

Option 1
As you can see below option 1 is so you can attach the stainless spunding valve directly to the disconnect. This will be the cheapest option as the spunding valve will sell for about $9.95 and the ball lock disconnects we currently sell the for about $3 each. The issue is that you dont know what pressure it's set to.
spunding%20valve%20to%20go%20directly%20onto%20the%20MFL%20ball%20lock%20disconnect-01.jpg


Option 2
We make the stainless spunding valve with 8mm push in so you would be able to hook this up as shown below. The push in fittings are nice because they are easier to take apart and clean. This whole assembly below would cost about $22 in comparison. (this would include the disconnect, the duotight to FFL fitting, the duotight tee piece, spunding valve with 8mm push in and the 8mm push in dial.
spunding%20valve%20with%208mm%20push%20in%20to%20go%20into%20other%20push%20in%20fittings-01.jpg



I should also say that in the future we will also have a diaphram spunding valve available too which is about 2-3 months away and the advantage of a diaphram style spunding valve is the set pressure is far more accurate but this would be about $30.
Option 2, I have two already but will definitely be getting more, so handy for under pressure transfers as well as pressure fermenting. Your setup looks so so much easier to strip down and clean. Either way allowing the option of a pressure gauge is a must, it lets you know if fermentation has started and is a good warning for kegmenter owners that there's some pressure before attempting to open. Buy once cry once I say.
 
Hey guys. Seeing as you guys are all talking about spunding valves i was wondering if you could give us some advice on which option you guys would prefer. I dont think we will stock both optoins so we will either stock option 1 or option 2.

We have started to manufactur a stainless spunding valve and we have completed the testing but we are trying to work out if we make them with 8mm push in or make them with FFL thread so they fit onto the MFL disconnects. If we use the 8mm push in we can configure them in many different ways as we have a growing number of push in fittings that we are making at the moment.

Option 1
As you can see below option 1 is so you can attach the stainless spunding valve directly to the disconnect. This will be the cheapest option as the spunding valve will sell for about $9.95 and the ball lock disconnects we currently sell the for about $3 each. The issue is that you dont know what pressure it's set to.
spunding%20valve%20to%20go%20directly%20onto%20the%20MFL%20ball%20lock%20disconnect-01.jpg


Option 2
We make the stainless spunding valve with 8mm push in so you would be able to hook this up as shown below. The push in fittings are nice because they are easier to take apart and clean. This whole assembly below would cost about $22 in comparison. (this would include the disconnect, the duotight to FFL fitting, the duotight tee piece, spunding valve with 8mm push in and the 8mm push in dial.
spunding%20valve%20with%208mm%20push%20in%20to%20go%20into%20other%20push%20in%20fittings-01.jpg



I should also say that in the future we will also have a diaphram spunding valve available too which is about 2-3 months away and the advantage of a diaphram style spunding valve is the set pressure is far more accurate but this would be about $30.

Wouldn’t this be better with a 1/4bsp thread on it so as to avoid the cost of the push infittings ?
Cheers.
 
Wouldn’t this be better with a 1/4bsp thread on it so as to avoid the cost of the push infittings ?
Cheers.
A metal 1/4bsp T would have to be more costly than a push fitting, also you'd need to hit with thread seal/tape each time you disassemble for cleaning, which would be, well every brew, (i do this now) KL's solution looks a lot tidier and easier to deal with brew to brew.
 
If you have to disassemble for cleaning each time you use it, you haven't a clue what you are doing, I haven't had any krausen come anywhere near mine, and if you are having to clean **** out of the valve that means disassembling the gauge because you will also have **** in that.
First rule make sure you have enough head space, know what PSI you are setting to (pressure prevents the krausen from rising) and get rid of that 100 PSI pressure gauge, its about as useful as **** on a bull.
 
If you have to disassemble for cleaning each time you use it, you haven't a clue what you are doing, I haven't had any krausen come anywhere near mine, and if you are having to clean **** out of the valve that means disassembling the gauge because you will also have **** in that.
First rule make sure you have enough head space, know what PSI you are setting to (pressure prevents the krausen from rising) and get rid of that 100 PSI pressure gauge, its about as useful as **** on a bull.
See your not backward in putting your .02c in. Maybe it's just me but I think there'd be moisture is that gas that is being expelled through that valve (especially in the 18-25c range), mould loves moisture.
You keep not cleaning that equipment, I'm sure has been said in many a commercial brewery... err not! Commercial spunding valves strip right down specifically so they can be cleaned every brew. But hey maybe they have no idea what they're doing.
 
There is moisture in the co2 mainly alcohol, commercial breweries DO NOT cap the gas being released in the initial phase of fermentation, it gets blown off into a bucket or barrel, the reason being there are other undesirable gases being vented at the start of fermentation and another reason is yeast health.When they bring the spunding valve into operation the ferment is close to finishing. No bugs will live in an atmosphere of co2 but if you are worried about them make your own spunding valve using hose, starsan, hose clamp and water, works just as well.
 
01. EmptyB x 4
02. 3StringCigar x1
03. pommycol x2
04. Fleabag x 3
05. Dan walker x 2
06. Moonhead x 3
07. Weizenbonk x 3
08. Danscraftbeer X 2
09. Belgrave Brewer x 4
10. blotto x 2
11. HaveFun x 2
12. Gazza 1958 x 2
13. Poacher x 2
14. PTG x 3
15. Lonte x 2
16. theSeekerr x 2
17. swarve x 1
18.MikeyR x 2
19.Schooner_downunder × 2
20. Cb341982 x 2 (posted for new starter)
 
01. EmptyB x 4
02. 3StringCigar x1
03. pommycol x2
04. Fleabag x 3
05. Dan walker x 2
06. Moonhead x 3
07. Weizenbonk x 3
08. Danscraftbeer X 2
09. Belgrave Brewer x 4
10. blotto x 2
11. HaveFun x 2
12. Gazza 1958 x 2
13. Poacher x 2
14. PTG x 3
15. Lonte x 2
16. theSeekerr x 2
17. swarve x 1
18.MikeyR x 2
19.Schooner_downunder × 2
20. Cb341982 x 2 (posted for new starter)
21. Abird89 x 2
 
If you have to disassemble for cleaning each time you use it, you haven't a clue what you are doing, I haven't had any krausen come anywhere near mine, and if you are having to clean **** out of the valve that means disassembling the gauge because you will also have **** in that.
First rule make sure you have enough head space, know what PSI you are setting to (pressure prevents the krausen from rising) and get rid of that 100 PSI pressure gauge, its about as useful as **** on a bull.

This might be the case but we have seen many customers using spunding valves which end up getting clogged up with dried beer wort. I am not sure what these customers are doing but we see it frequently. I gues our belief is that anything that can be connected to the fermenter should really be possible for it to be easily dissasembled and cleaned. The real problem is the pressure gauge as you have pointed out.

For a really sanitary pressure gauge you really need to use a diaphragm pressure gauge. But these are quite expensive and we would normally only use these on the large commercial conical fermenting tanks. So we dont really have any option but to use a capillary pressure gauge.
 
Wouldn’t this be better with a 1/4bsp thread on it so as to avoid the cost of the push infittings ?
Cheers.

The 1/4bsp fitting is a similar cost. As mashmaniac has pointed out though we really feel that using push in fittings makes it far easier to clean and take apart so we feel that it's the best option.
 
TBH if you’re using the spunding valve for keg to keg transfers it can be easy enough to get some beer to blow through it.
 
Hey guys. Seeing as you guys are all talking about spunding valves i was wondering if you could give us some advice on which option you guys would prefer. I dont think we will stock both optoins so we will either stock option 1 or option 2.

We have started to manufactur a stainless spunding valve and we have completed the testing but we are trying to work out if we make them with 8mm push in or make them with FFL thread so they fit onto the MFL disconnects. If we use the 8mm push in we can configure them in many different ways as we have a growing number of push in fittings that we are making at the moment.

Option 1
As you can see below option 1 is so you can attach the stainless spunding valve directly to the disconnect. This will be the cheapest option as the spunding valve will sell for about $9.95 and the ball lock disconnects we currently sell the for about $3 each. The issue is that you dont know what pressure it's set to.
spunding%20valve%20to%20go%20directly%20onto%20the%20MFL%20ball%20lock%20disconnect-01.jpg


Option 2
We make the stainless spunding valve with 8mm push in so you would be able to hook this up as shown below. The push in fittings are nice because they are easier to take apart and clean. This whole assembly below would cost about $22 in comparison. (this would include the disconnect, the duotight to FFL fitting, the duotight tee piece, spunding valve with 8mm push in and the 8mm push in dial.
spunding%20valve%20with%208mm%20push%20in%20to%20go%20into%20other%20push%20in%20fittings-01.jpg



I should also say that in the future we will also have a diaphram spunding valve available too which is about 2-3 months away and the advantage of a diaphram style spunding valve is the set pressure is far more accurate but this would be about $30.
Is this going to be a better quality PRV than the one you put together while you guys were at KegKing, that has to be the worse one on the market. Why don't you get some scale markings put on it and what will the pressure rating be?
 
01. EmptyB x 4
02. 3StringCigar x1
03. pommycol x2
04. Fleabag x 3
05. Dan walker x 2
06. Moonhead x 3
07. Weizenbonk x 3
08. Danscraftbeer X 2
09. Belgrave Brewer x 4
10. blotto x 2
11. HaveFun x 2
12. Gazza 1958 x 2
13. Poacher x 2
14. PTG x 3
15. Lonte x 2
16. theSeekerr x 2
17. swarve x 1
18.MikeyR x 2
19.Schooner_downunder × 2
20. Cb341982 x 2 (posted for new starter)
21. Abird89 x 2
22. Uyllii x 2
 
Just upping mine to 2. Is there a date this BB is open until or a target number of interest? Thanks for organising!

01. EmptyB x 4
02. 3StringCigar x1
03. pommycol x2
04. Fleabag x 3
05. Dan walker x 2
06. Moonhead x 3
07. Weizenbonk x 3
08. Danscraftbeer X 2
09. Belgrave Brewer x 4
10. blotto x 2
11. HaveFun x 2
12. Gazza 1958 x 2
13. Poacher x 2
14. PTG x 3
15. Lonte x 2
16. theSeekerr x 2
17. swarve x 2
18.MikeyR x 2
19.Schooner_downunder × 2
20. Cb341982 x 2 (posted for new starter)
21. Abird89 x 2
22. Uyllii x 2
 
01. EmptyB x 4
02. 3StringCigar x1
03. pommycol x2
04. Fleabag x 3
05. Dan walker x 2
06. Moonhead x 3
07. Weizenbonk x 3
08. Danscraftbeer X 2
09. Belgrave Brewer x 4
10. blotto x 2
11. HaveFun x 2
12. Gazza 1958 x 2
13. Poacher x 2
14. PTG x 3
15. Lonte x 2
16. theSeekerr x 2
17. swarve x 2
18.MikeyR x 2
19.Schooner_downunder × 2
20. Cb341982 x 2 (posted for new starter)
21. Abird89 x 2
22. Uyllii x 2
23. Others x 20 running total 71
I have put this up in various places but there are others who may not have seen it, a cheaper way of closed vessel fermentation.
004.JPG 006.JPG 002.JPG
I use a manifold to house the PRV and the gauge, vent gas 1st day before applying pressure, I try and keep mine at 17 - 20 kPa. Using the empty cube as a secondary transfer through the taps at the bottom, shut off PRV open valves to equalise the pressure between the cubes and transfer.
 

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