Perforated Stainless Steel Sheeting, False Bottoms

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I was thinking about 3 spokes, (bend a T into a Y and drill the intersection for the drain, it would cut the number of clamps down to 12.

The dead space in the bottom of the keg.
I have seen only one reference to this on the net so here goes. Take the normal bottom of your keg plus 1 rubber hammer and bang it for all your worth until you turn it inside out to leave an upside down cone ^ like so. The put run your manifold around the outside which will then be the lowest point.

You would have to think hard about efficiently, by having the keg bottom domed shaped ^ you in effect will cause chanelling to the edges of the keg, however the apex of the dome would in effect divid the keg width in half as it would cause a current to flow down the side of the down to the bottom on the keg being the keg wall. I guess you could put another ring higher on the dom but I dont know what effect that would have.

But hammering the round bottom to turn the bottom of the keg inside out is a novel solution.

any feedback about this idea would be appreciated as I have seriously thought about it.
 
I know this is bringing up a really old topic but this is a must. I got some of the Solomons ClearShield to make a false bottom for my CB pot.

This is a warning to any one else going to use this product removing the powder coating is a real B#^%H.

I firstly used Gasket Remover which is recommended to remove powder coating worked great to remove the coating on the flat surface, but not the holes. I then sand blasted it trying to get the powder coating out of the holes to no joy. Then soaked it in PBW over night hoping that would shift it still no joy. Read up on removing powder coating some more to find that acetone will remove it, but not from 2mm holes obviously. So I ended up spending 6 hours with a 2mm drill in the Dremel and re-drilled each individual hole which worked a treat. So now I got myself a full size false bottom for my CB 100L pot :D
Ross said:
Security screen manufacturers have either S/S woven or perferated sheets. Solomons of Capalaba have the sheet & more than happy to sell it to you....
 
nathan_madness said:
So I ended up spending 6 hours with a 2mm drill in the Dremel and re-drilled each individual hole which worked a treat. So now I got myself a full size false bottom for my CB 100L pot :D
damn man, sometimes the DIY just doesnt pay off, thats a hell of an effort for a FB..

is it steel under or stainless? isnt it just going to rust now?
 
Any decent sheet metal joint will have perforated stainless sheet. A false bottom needs the 7/32" holes which I think ( from a well used memory ) is a standard size
 
Ha ha that is what I thought to I have 2 specialist S/S sheet metal shops near me and both of them said that it is as rare as rocking horse s%^t. There is a supplier called metal mesh that will supply you a sheet 2000x1000 for $500ish.
 
I dunno, couldn't you have set it on fire?
 
Heating stainless can change it's properties which can lead to rusting. I read all about it in my search for removing powder coating.
 
Possibly, but wouldn't that be true in any welding application? I guess it is moot now anyhow.
 
metal mesh in sydney make perforated sheets
Home - Metal Mesh
I emailed them for a quote for 40cm diameter disc with 2mm holes and they told me $350 delivered and be more than happy to plasma cut it. I didn't take up the offer.
"more beer" in the states will custom make you one, up to 20 inches for about $70 USD.
I ended up getting a $14 dollar 40cm stainless steel serving tray( 2mm thick) from a catering supplier which fits perfeclty in the bottom of my mash tun. I then got a metal punch and drill and put heaps of 2mm holes in it and 4 stainless steel bolts for support legs. I would have used a braid set up but the mash tun has a heating element in the bottom ( old boiler). I just heat up the water in the mash tun and then add the grains.
This is exactly the sort of set up I'm looking to build (element under the false bottom). Whereabouts did you get the service tray and is it working out ok?
 
You do realise you are replying to a thread from 2005, and asking a question of a member last seen in 2006?
Might be better off doing a search on eBay or similar.
Mark
 

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