NPT vs BSP thread type in a new set-up

[mofox1]

Hi all,

As I'm in the wonderful position of having (almost) none of my SS plumbing yet, I get to decide whether I go for NPT or BSP threads.

Hopefully this won't turn into another thread about whether you can successfully mate NPT and BSP thread types together. I know it *can* work and have done so previously, but you can (and usually do) end up with leaks eventually, and if you have to disassemble/reassemble a few times the SS is going to burr up because of the pitch mismatch.

Basically - I'm a cheapskate (that's why we're here right?) and there are a couple of ebay retailers out there with very competitive prices. Also I can more blindly follow theelectricbrewery step by step instructions.

My preference would normally be toward the BSP - it's the standard here and it makes picking up parts locally a bit easier. However, the (only) ebay retailer I've found for the BSP fittings doesn't have a large sell history, and that tends to make me nervous. And while the NPT reseller doesn't have a massive sell history (as in the +100k for the usual electronics guys) it's large enough that confidence value can be trusted a bit better.

Would I be doing myself a disservice by buying NPT? Am I likely to run into any issues other than poor mating with BSP or local supply?

Cheers,
Mick

 

[mofox1]

Oh yeah - the NPT retailer is slightly cheaper too.

Mick

 

[neo__04]

I'm no expert, but i've built and am building a new brew rig myself at the moment.

I havent ordered any ebay stainless in the past, but from memory someone on here said they had slight rust issues. So not 100% true stainless.

As for the BSP / NPT issue, ive always used bsp, readily available, everyone on here knows where to source it from, which may help you.

I've seen a few people ordering from here.
http://www.anzor.com.au/bsp-npt-fittings/bsp-unions/no-group-selected/12-bsp-316-union-nb15/product

As for myself, i've ordered from various brewing places and ended up finding my local stainless supplier had all the fittings i needed, 3 piece ball valves included, great prices, even better for cash. Might be worth an ask locally first.

Hope that helps

 

[Tex083]

I use a mix and it's fine. The reason - US camlocks are 1/2 the price.
Be careful of "cheap" ball valves u have 1 and it's very hard to open and close when compared to my local ones that cost a little more. If your building a brew rig and you are going to use it for a long time it's worth the investment in some good fittings. Some of the cheap ones don't thread together well at all. I have a few pieces a bucket that are useless as you can only get 2.5 turns out of it before the thread binds up.

 

[TheWiggman]

I'd advise to shop locally and use BSP exclusively. Any Aussie hardware store will stock plumbing gear with BSP. You don't want to have to skip to 5 different plumbing stores to find a 1/2" NPT.

The T in NPT = Taper. If you use a BSP on an NPT female you'll get a few threads on before it locks. You'll probably strip a thread before you realise.

Just go with the Aussie stuff because one day you'll want to upgrade or replace something and rue the day you saved $4 on that damn welded NPT socket.

 

[superstock]

All you need to know is here, including adaptors.
/Cmd+vhttp://pipeandhose.com/node/2

 

[MHB]

There is a vast difference between price and value, if you cant tell the difference I doubt anyone can help you much.
As for the "Basically - I'm a cheapskate (that's why we're here right?)" comment, speak for your self, price plays little or no role in what and why I brew. I want to drink the best beer I can. Whether I make or buy the beer is irrelevant to me if it isn't good I don't drink it.

Think of quality parts as a long term investment, if you buy on price alone - well the old "you get what you pay for" is very real and I doubt you will save enough on your parts to pay for one brew, if you loose one to leaks or infections you will be even further behind.
Buy good quality parts that are supported by someone you can trust, Sure look for the best deal you can but decide what you need to do the job and find parts that will keep doing the job and enjoy your brewing and drink to enjoy good beer.
Mark

 

[lael]

I faced the same issue when building my brauclone. Would go back and change to all BSP if I was starting again. So much simpler. As stated above - you will get one or two turns of a male bsp into a female NPT fitting before it locks up. Not worth the hassle, and the prices are not that different. Anzor was where I ordered a lot of stuff. Super helpful - fill out all the bits and pieces you want and send it through for a quote - they'll email back the next business day.

There was one group here in Sydney (roughly where are you? - ppl can give more specific advice) that said they would do cash sales min. $100 (at the time I thought I wouldn't go over that.... haha... ) but I don't remember who - they were southwest from memory.

 

[Fat Bastard]

If I had to pick one, I'd go for BSP, being the local standard and all. However, I am an inveterate cheapskate and scrap bin scrounger, so there is a mix of BSP and NPT on mine.

I've found that some NPT and BSP threads won't go in more than 2 or 3 threads before locking, but I've found the same thing occasionally with BSP-BSP before. It depends on which end of the tolerance they've made the male thread, and how deep they've gone with the tapered tap.

Buy a1/2" BSPP (parallel) tap and never worry about it again. Use a proper sealant like Loctite 577 or thread tape and you won't get leaks either.

 

[lael]

If I had to pick one, I'd go for BSP, being the local standard and all. However, I am an inveterate cheapskate and scrap bin scrounger, so there is a mix of BSP and NPT on mine.

I've found that some NPT and BSP threads won't go in more than 2 or 3 threads before locking, but I've found the same thing occasionally with BSP-BSP before. It depends on which end of the tolerance they've made the male thread, and how deep they've gone with the tapered tap.

Buy a1/2" BSPP (parallel) tap and never worry about it again. Use a proper sealant like Loctite 577 or thread tape and you won't get leaks either.

Any suggestions on where to get the tap for a good price?

 

[wide eyed and legless]

Lael, probably the best place to look would be eBay, its not like its going to be used day in day out.

 

[TheWiggman]

Most of the site sponsors have ball valves for about the same price.

I got a bulkhead and ball valve from ibrew and at $25 you can't beat it. The valve is actually a 2 piece with lock and is a better machined than the maxiflos.

 

[mb-squared]

I designed my system down to the last bolt and then ordered all my hardware from Bobby at Brewhardware -- so my brewrig started out as all NPT. I checked and re-checked different places and found out that he was the cheapest way to go for me, including the $80 in shipping. Since then, I've added some parts here and there and all of those are BSP -- not going to pay shipping costs for a single piece or two. So now I have a mix, but so far I haven't had to connect BSP directly to NPT. I personally think that you'll get your best value if you shop from an established brewers shop (like Brewhardware or Brewershardware or stainlessbrewing). You are really risking things if you go the aliexpress or ebay route (IMO).

Contrary to what someone said above, the cost of your stainless won't affect the quality of your brew one way or the other. Get the cheapest you can, but make sure it is quality -- just because it is stainless doesn't mean that it will last. I've seen cheap Chinese camlocks (ebay purchase) fail on the first go.

 

[wide eyed and legless]

I believe Lael is talking about a BSP cutting tap.

 

[booargy]

I would go with tri-clamp over BSM. h34r:

 

[lael]

yep sure was

 

[Fat Bastard]

Lael, I honestly can't remember where I got mine from. I don't think it was particularly cheap seeing as it's quite a big tap, but it's a worthwhile investment being able to get the threads in your brewery to go all the way home. If you use weldless fittings, the threaded pipe you buy is always a parallel thread and the ball valves are always tapered, so in fitting one weldless ball valve and fitting to your vessel you've payed for it in peace of mind.

 

[booargy]

Any suggestions on where to get the tap for a good price?

I got mine from Gasweld. you're looking at around $80

 

[Camo6]

Here's a cheapie from ebay with free postage and located in Australia. Only carbon steel though so care will need to be taken.

 

[Fat Bastard]

You couldn't pay me to use a carbon steel tap. It might only be 22 bucks but it'll cost you a minimum of 100 to get the ******* spark eroded out if it picks up and jams or you could just junk the bit you're tapping into and buy a new one.

Buy a HSS one and use it properly and you won't have a problem. It'll last you a lifetime too, and you can probably pay for it in beers from your mates tapping out their threads.

I write this advice as someone who made a lot of money out of removing broken taps from expensive parts in a former life.