No Boil For Malt Flavour

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clatty

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:)

I was doing some beer surfing and come across this...

"By controlling the temperature of your wort, you can bring out different, and to many, hidden, malt characteristics of your beer. To achieve this, it is a simple process one must have a thermometer to test the wort simply heat your wort no higher than 70-75 degrees C. (150-158 degrees F.) for the boil. This process leaves in many of the rich flavinoids, essential oils, and malt character of your homebrewed beer that the boil usually drives out. Note that during the "boil", the wort does not actually boil, although it is still heated at this high temperature for one full hour."

The full article is here http://www.beereducation.com/home-brew/tec...ome-brewed-beer

Any thoughts, comments or reports? :)
 
Its on the WWW so it must be right!

I just worked it out, someone posted 01/04 joke early.



MHB
 
Give it a try, tell us how it goes.

Sanitation might be OK but the hop isomeration might suffer a bit. It might take more hops to get the same bitterness.
 
Also leaves in all the proteins that would normally come out as hot break, not to mention the other nastied that don't get actually killed off during the mash. Have you ever left a mash tun for a day or so without emptying it ? Yech.
 
Give it a try, tell us how it goes.

Sanitation might be OK but the hop isomeration might suffer a bit. It might take more hops to get the same bitterness.

I'm actually a bit scared to goatherder :( . But I guess I could put it on the experiment list... what's the worst that could happen? :icon_vomit:


It's on the WWW so it must be right!

If you're retarded <_<
 
Have you ever left a mash tun for a day or so without emptying it ? Yech.
Yep, and all I can say is I will never do it again. :(

I have been wondering what everyone does with their spent grist though...
 
Remember how no-chill couldn't possibly work. It was against every brewing principle ever written. Then people tried it and it worked. A number of huge myths were broken by this - DMS and cold break being the ones which spring to mind. The big lesson for me was don't knock it until it's been tried.
 
Sounds almost like turbid mash.
I wouldn't be racing to give it a try, especially with pilsner malt.

The article seems to mention mead going through this process...which is fair enough because you're relying on strictly the honey for your flavour/aroma, but malt tends to be a bit less delicate.
But hey, i'm always one for experimentation. Try making the same beer, one with a real boil and one with a half-ass boil, see how you go!
 
This is actually how ales used to be made in the middle ages. With no hops being used, there was no need for a boil, so just mash and straight to fermentation.
 
Remember how no-chill couldn't possibly work. It was against every brewing principle ever written. Then people tried it and it worked. A number of huge myths were broken by this - DMS and cold break being the ones which spring to mind. The big lesson for me was don't knock it until it's been tried.

Agree totally goatherder, hence the post.

But hey, i'm always one for experimentation. Try making the same beer, one with a real boil and one with a half-ass boil, see how you go!

As if I don't have enough on my plate muggas!! :p Seriously though, it's not high on my priority list as I'm reasonably new to AG and I have so many yeast trials to run... patience......
 
If anyone is prepared to give it a go, it should be easy to run off a trial 5 litre batch. Do this mid run off.

You will want to do some reading on the correct procedure for Pastuerizing.

Most systems achieve about 75 deg when mashing out and running off and the wort from this is not stable. I suspect that a "no boil" approach will also not be very stable. The spent grain would also spend alot of time at 75 deg and everyone knows how quickly this goes off.

Brews in the middle ages were consumed fresh and drunk from solid metal steins so cloudiness wasn't a factor.

Noonan and Fix both go into quite a bit of detail about the changes in wort during the boil. These changes will not occur using "no boil".
 
A lot of hot break happens before the wort boils - sustained temperatures at the suggested levels will kill most of the bugs that a boil will - hops isomerise at reasonable rates right down to the mid 70C range

Do a little looking on the web for the term wort stripping - modern breweries are working their arses off to find different ways of avoiding or reducing the boil - energy and time for boiling is a major cost. The boil is needed for certain things... they can all be achieved without actually boiling the wort. Of course pretty much none of the techniques used could be done on a HB scale.

There would be issues with just not boiling your wort, a number of them - but it would be beer, and with less issues than I think most people assume.
 
There's a graph in this month's BYO (Palmer, who else?) which shows the rate constant of isomerisation vs temperature. At 75 degrees, isomerisation rate is an order of magnitude less than at boiling. At the very least, you'd need to use in the order of 10-20 times more hops to get the same levels of isomerised AA (bitterness, sort of) if you no-boiled for 60min. You might need to hold it longer or do it hotter than 75 to use less hops.
 

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