Matho's controller

[enoch]

Yey!

 

[Oggie]

Awesome work! Such a collaboration.
I got my PCB assembled and running off the bat, so thanks for such great detail and clear instructions. I'm building mine to go on a Grainfather too encoh, so may want to pick your brains later.

I did find the pid setup confusing but noticed the english screen output was missing the P,I,D after prompting for the constant. Possibly due to the double spacing after the Constant. I removed the extra space and it now displays clearly as in kP,kI and kD.
Also displaying Whirlpool after IodineTime there was a stray e from ...Time so added an extra space after Whirlpool to blank out the stray e.
I fixed the code below if that makes it easy for you just paste in, talk about gilding the lily, it just displays easier.


char *PIDName[] ={"Use ", "Constant kP", "Constant kI", "Constant kD", "SampleTime ", "WindowSet ms", "Heat in Boil", "Calibration " , "Hysteresi "};
char *stageName[] ={"Mash In ", "Phytase ", "Glucanase ", "Protease ", "\xE2""Amylase ", "\xE0""Amylase1 ", "\xE0""Amylase2 ", "Mash Out ", "Boil ", "Cooling ", "Whirlpool "};
char *unitName[] ={"Set Degrees", "Sensor ", "Temp Boil ", "Temp Boil ", "Pump Cycle ", "Pump Rest ", "Pmp PreMash", "Pmp on Mash", "Pmp MashOut", "Pmp on Boil", "Pump Stop ", "Pump Stop ", "PID Pipe ", "Skip Add ", "Skip Remove", "Skip Iodine", "IodineTime " , "Whirlpool "};

The good thing I noticed was I didn't loose my setting programming the Uno again.

 

[MaxN68]

Thanks

 

[Oggie]

Another thing I did was to change the buttons, so down is on the left and up is on the right, more standard convention for me, as I automatically seem to turn down from the left, does anyone else naturally press the wrong button, or just Kiwi's and Aussies on the bottom of the planet, our water goes the wrong way down the sink too. I also changed the naming from "Up* *Dwn" to just "Down Up" ties in better with the other button labels.

 

[arzaman]

Open ArdBir and all in one board used for grainfather controller replacement.

Almost plug and play substitutíon and huge improvement of functionalities ..from simple on / off thermo regulator to a complete automated system whit PID / PWM controller of heating element and pump controller..And much more

Full details in a dedicated post

https://picasaweb.google.com/mysobry.picasa/GrainFatherTransformationWithArdBir#6174463283379314866

 

[Oggie]

That looks really cool arzaman, I've been working on a similar project, just 3d printing the top of my case for it now(still just prototype). What did you do with your SSRs, not worry about a heatsink? Only 2kw 10amp I suppose, do they heat up? I don't have any experience with SSRs, was going to have heat sinks on the right side of the body.
I don't have all the high voltage side yet so a bit away from testing yet.
I was also thinking of puting a manual pump override switch, so if in full auto mode I can flick on the pump to sterilize the wort chiller etc.

 

[arzaman]

That looks really cool arzaman, I've been working on a similar project, just 3d printing the top of my case for it now(still just prototype). What did you do with your SSRs, not worry about a heatsink? Only 2kw 10amp I suppose, do they heat up? I don't have any experience with SSRs, was going to have heat sinks on the right side of the body.
I don't have all the high voltage side yet so a bit away from testing yet.
I was also thinking of puting a manual pump override switch, so if in full auto mode I can flick on the pump to sterilize the wort chiller etc.

[SIZE=10.5pt]SSR used is the classic 40A / 240V AC[/SIZE]
[SIZE=10.5pt]Heat sink is strongly suggested , I try to post a couple of picture of internal set up (has not build by me but from and ArdBir Italian supporter)[/SIZE]


Manual switch for pump override is not need: you can switch on and off pump from ardbir …softswitch J
Moreover you can decide during set up to keep the pump on during boil

Davide

 

[arzaman]

Some other nice picture to highlight how the Open ArdBir with all in one board is almost PLUG and PLAY for grainfather STC200 subsitituion!

 

[luisdepaula2001]

Experts,

My pot arrived and my mathos controller based on the 2.1 board is ready, the pump is not working and the element is heating the water extremelly slow.

I tested the outlets of the controller, and they have 127v for the pump and for element.

What may I have done wrong?

Thank you,

Luís

 

[zwitter]

Hi luis

Please be very careful as this is mains power and can be lethal. I strongly suggest asking some one with electronics experience take a look. An earth leakage safety switch is highly reccommended.

Can you hear the relay switch?
Does the led light for the pump and heater?
If your SSR has an led, does it light up when heater activated?

With power off.....
Do you have a volt meter and resistance meter?
If so measure the earth continuity from the power in cord to the sockets for the pump and heater. Repeat for the neutral connector. Both earth and the neutral should both be very low resistance and basically are connected straight through.

Then look at the active / line power connection. The active should go to one side of the relay switch section and also to one side of the SSR.

Let us know and we can advise further. Photos could also help.

James
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[luisdepaula2001]

Hi James,

I have some eletronics experience but it was 25 years ago, so I'm revisiting everything and going very slow to avoid risks.

In my apartment, in Brazil, the power outlets do not have ground but I did all the installation with the ground.

I have checked the fase and neutral from the wall outlet and all the controller wiring.

The pump and heat led lights on the controller work perfectly and the led light in the SSR also is on.

The only abnormal thing in the controller is the buzzer that is off all the time when I power on.

Cheers,

Luis

 

[MaxN68]

Heve you set all parameters?

 

[luisdepaula2001]

No parameter setting, I did the test in manual mode.

Also, when I tested the power out for pump and heat in the controller; if I do Line and Ground, I get 66 volts and the same for Neutral and ground.

 

[zwitter]

Hi
What is the voltage at the wall socket?
Have you connected the ground to a ground some where? In Australia we have 240v and every socket has ground and there are connections (earth bonds) to the water pipe and gas pipe coming into the house / apartment.

If the ground is not earthed to a good earth point then it will float and potentially be a shock hazard. The heatsink and pot may also float at roughly half the supply voltage.

Photos?
Thanks
James


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[MaxN68]

No parameter setting, I did the test in manual mode.

Also, when I tested the power out for pump and heat in the controller; if I do Line and Ground, I get 66 volts and the same for Neutral and ground.

You must configure ArdBir before using it in any part.

 

[MaxN68]

Hi
What is the voltage at the wall socket?
Have you connected the ground to a ground some where? In Australia we have 240v and every socket has ground and there are connections (earth bonds) to the water pipe and gas pipe coming into the house / apartment.

If the ground is not earthed to a good earth point then it will float and potentially be a shock hazard. The heatsink and pot may also float at roughly half the supply voltage.

Photos?
Thanks
James


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

ArdBir is a controller for your pot and use 12 volt DC.
ArdBir haven't any power output.

 

[luisdepaula2001]

Max,
What configurations to I need to set?
PID parameters?
What is your suggestions for the values?

I know Ardbir has no power output.

 

[luisdepaula2001]

picture of the wiring, I'm following Matho's wiring diagram.

From right to left; power in, Heat, Pump

The blue wire from power in to heat is Neutral, all the other white wires are neutral

All grounds connect to the SSR

 

[MaxN68]

All information can be found in the manual.
But you read the manual before you ask?

 

[luisdepaula2001]

Max, yes I did read.
The only part I did not configure any parameter in the settings, were the PID.
Rgs,
Luis