Matho's controller

[MitchD]

I'm on my phone but Google "arduino LCD pins" all LCD screens use the same pins and they are arranged in the same order on the PCB. But trust me if you connect the LCD back to front it won't kill it. That's how I worked it out.

 

[dblunn]

For instance for PCB_5.h we have

OneWire ds(8);

LiquidCrystal lcd(2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7);
// push buttons
const char Button_enter = A2;
const char Button_start = A3;
const char Button_up = A4;
const char Button_dn = A5;
// outputs
const byte Pump = 9;
const byte Buzz = 10;
const byte Heat = 11;


now in the Arduino site it says
Syntax
LiquidCrystal(rs, enable, d4, d5, d6, d7)
LiquidCrystal(rs, rw, enable, d4, d5, d6, d7)
LiquidCrystal(rs, enable, d0, d1, d2, d3, d4, d5, d6, d7)
LiquidCrystal(rs, rw, enable, d0, d1, d2, d3, d4, d5, d6, d7)
which lists the various overloaded functions and the first line give the particular instance which takes 6 values (ie 4 bit data and no R/W, because we don't give a toss about reading stuff back from the LCD). So in this case we have pin 2 is rs (register select), pin 3 is the enable, pin 4 to pin 7 is data 4 to 7.
Regards, Dave

 

[dca]

Thanks - I think that clears it up. So, most of my pins will need rewired. :-( Additionally, all pins are wired in, but not all used. Also good to know. --Dave A

 

[luisdepaula2001]

Hello everyone,

I'm finishing up my Brauduino controller and have a doubt.

I found 2 wiring diagrams in the forum; 1 from Matho and another one from lael for the latest kit and they have a difference in the pump wiring.

On Matho's version, the load is connected to the pump and the neutral to the PCB
On Lael's version, the load is connected to the PCB and the neutral to the pump pump.

My PCB is version 2.1

How should I wire my 220v pump?

Thanks in advance.

Luís

 

[MitchD]

Post up your diagrams but with a 240v pump you will only be driving a relay which will control the pumps voltage.

 

[zwitter]

Hi Luis
The circuit Matho originally designed was setup to allow the relay to switch 12v dc or 240v ac. Some people use the LBP little brown pump on 12v and others use the chugger or march pump on 240v.

The relay will switch either but if you switch 240v you need to be very careful as the PCB will have 240v that can kill. I would have preferred it used a second SSR for 240v pump just like the heater.

Good electrical practice is to switch the active conductor in 240v circuits. The brown is the active. The relay is just a switch so it will work in either conductor. The relay is only rated for a low amperage and would be damaged if you tried to switch the heater at 10A. If you switch the neutral the wire to the pump will remain live even when it is switched off.

The relay on the board switching 240v is one of the reasons for the disclaimer that appears several times throughout the braumiser build notes.

I have 240 switched by the relay on mine and it works fine but I never open the box when it is connected to power.

I recommend that a safety switch be installed in the circuit you run the braumiser on. Water and power make a potential hazardous situation.

Make sure the pot and motor are connected to earth, it may save a life.

James

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[luisdepaula2001]

Zwitter,
Thanks for your answer and a 2nd SSR is a really good idea.
I plan to have the controller away from the pot as another safety matter.
Rgs,
Luis

 

[stevemc32]

I'm trying to learn how to tune the pid and have a quick question on the Ardbir pid ranges.

My research indicates that the P setting is a gain, and the I and D settings are units of time. The question is how do the negative values in the Ardbir software work? The ranges are listed in the manual as P from -100 to 100, I from -100 to 155 and D from -100 to 100.

A simple tuning method starts with removing the I and D terms from the calculation by setting them to zero. Does this mean setting them in Ardbir to 0 or to -100?

Cheers,
Steve.

 

[stevemc32]

No-one's looked at the PID settings?

The reason I'd like to do some tuning is that I noticed a few updates ago that my system seems to waste 5-10 minutes ramping up the last degree to each of the setpoints. I've unsuccessfully played with the numbers and now want a baseline for tuning but don't know whether to start with zeros or start at the bottom of the ranges.

 

[dca]

You should begin with I & D terms at zero. This will be purely proportional gain.

The 'I' term integrates (adds up) the error, which will force it back toward the setpoint after gathering enough error (depending on the gain setting.

The 'D' term is the derivative term and tends to force the process back to the setpoint more quickly, as its gain number increases.

I think you would want to stay away from the negative numbers all together, as they are probably just there for special cases.

My $0.02, without getting into too much detail. My advice is just to only change one term at a time in order to isolate it's effect. So, using water, tune with just P, making I & D zero. Go next to the I term, keeping P the same and D = zero. Then, if needed, you can adjust D. But, you probably will want to keep it a relatively low number to prevent overshoot.

Dave A

 

[stevemc32]

Thanks Dave.

I'll give that a go.

 

[enoch]

There is a post on tuning on the ardbir Facebook page which works ok with my Grainfather.
Also the final 2.8.3 (whenever it is released) I think has a tuning interface.

The Facebook post follows:
"PID tuning!!!
Here you are a test of my BIAB after PID tuning...amazing good temperature control.
Setup:
100 KP
50 KD
10 KI
1500 Sampletime
3000 Window ms
Set Point was 65°C
2800W heater
20 liters of water"

 

[arzaman]

Tuning of PID constant is not easy task
If you look on Wikipedia there are few suggestions on how to find the correct triplets

For sure starting with Kd and Ki set to 0 and just running Kp is a good suggestion

Don't under evaluate also the other parameter configuration that ArdBir provide like sample time and window size...this again depends on your set up and thermodynamic behavior

Davide - ArdBir team

 

[claudiobr74]

Tuning of PID constant is not easy task
If you look on Wikipedia there are few suggestions on how to find the correct triplets
For sure starting with Kd and Ki set to 0 and just running Kp is a good suggestion
Don't under evaluate also the other parameter configuration that ArdBir provide like sample time and window size...this again depends on your set up and thermodynamic behavior
Davide - ArdBir team

Hi Davide,

Do you suggest any place to learn about the Sample time and Window size? I didn't find at any place.

Cheers,

Claudio

 

[MaxN68]

WindowSize must be >= 2×SampleTime.
You should have these values ​​as low as possible, but with the electric heating that is not possible.
A good compromise might be SampleTime 1500-2000
WindowSize 3000-4500
You need try

 

[woodwormm]

Is there an instruction list and or working example of Mathos controller?

I'd really like to understand all it can do.

Lael are there any left?

 

[MaxN68]

You can find the all information and the user manual at the link on my signature (dropbox)

 

[arzaman]

In my vessel set up with low inertia (no external insulation) I try to use lower range value, 2000 sample time and 3000 window size is a good compromise

Consider that reducing window size increase stress of the SSR so maybe add a proper heat sink

Davide

 

[MastersBrewery]

Is there an instruction list and or working example of Mathos controller?

I'd really like to understand all it can do.

Lael are there any left?

Lael's kit is listed in the bulk buys section, he has said he's happy to add further orders to the list. Best to PM him.

 

[arzaman]

Open ArdBir NEW Release 2.8.3RC8 is now avaialble !
https://goo.gl/qMhPgu
New features, some enanchements and corrections...lot of work since the original code adoption hope you appreciate it !

RELEASE NOTE
-Cooling process automation added
-Whirlpool process automation added
-pwm control for boil enhancement
-EEPROM remapping
-Bug Fix

Davide - ArdBir Team