claudiobr74 said:That was what I did! I have used 98°C and boiling was great but the counter didn't start, once never passes 97,5°C. And when I tried 97°C the boiling became weak. That is the reason I want made this firmware change. I believe that is not a hard work, but my arduino skils are limited.
Thats a great idea! How didn't think this. It certainly has the manual incovenient but it is a solution for now.QldKev said:My method may not be the best as it does need manual input, but I find it works for me. What I do is leave it at the original 98c (in your case set to 97c) so it triggers the boil timer, but it is not hot enough for a potential boil over. Once it starts timing I then use the up arrow to set the temperature to 111c so the element stays on 100% duty, and I can monitor for a boil over. I also have it set to a 70min boil, rather than 60min to allow the extra time to get to a full clean rolling boil.
Hi Max,MaxN68 said:Why did you change the code?
Beware that there are so many variable that influence the system on several occasions corertto operation of the entire firmware
eresh666 said:I managed to get my kit put together today however managed to get a few transistors around the wrong way (display was scrambled with only AC in live). When trying to de-solder I managed to burn the board and the little metal ring that you solder the transistors to came off. I'm not sure how to solder the transistors back in now!
Can it be saved or do I have to get another board and de-solder everything (this time properly with a pump).
excuse the dog breakfast of cabling it will all be secured once I know everything is working.
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