Matho's controller

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claudiobr74 said:
Hi Max, not yet. What did you change?
Release:
  • Fixed Error Display in Iodine Test (20x4) and Pause Stage (20x4)

Release Candidate:
  • Improves the PID. The value of KI was rescaled to 1/4 of the previous value and the interval setting was adjusted to -200 +400.
  • Removed Pause Pump on Mash Out
  • Recalculating Delta Temperature for abort Pause Pump
  • Fixed Error Display in Iodine Test (20x4) and Pause Stage (20x4)
 
Nice work! Does the program Maintain mash out temp if the malt pipe is not quickly removed?
 
It can be done and is already prepared to modify it but I chose not to keep the temperature as there is the possibility of having the double mash for high OG beers and in that case you prefer a lowering of the temperature.
 
Ah. That makes sense. Is there enough space left to make it a setting you can turn on or off?

Also, what happens if you don't hear the alarm for the iodine test or the machine is running unattended? Does it keep running the program in the background? I was running the program the other day and I came back to the screen and the test was on, but then I think it jumped to the end of the program after I ok'd it. Which I think is where it was up to.
 
The iodine test is an active pause: PID is ON, Pump is ON.
We can go to next step only with the button pushed.
If you want I can force to go at next step after x minutes in iodine test pause.

For change an passive pause in active pause is very simple.
For manage this choice I don't know if the space for code is enough
 
I would appreciate a forced progression if that fits on the board. Generally you'll have full conversion if your mash program is long enough. And for me... I built the braumiser so I could leave mashing unattended. Brewed yesterday and went out for 1.5hrs.... such a joy to brew on. If there is no space to manage the option (menus etc) then maybe just make it a configuration in code like the LCD?
 
MaxN68 said:
It can be done and is already prepared to modify it but I chose not to keep the temperature as there is the possibility of having the double mash for high OG beers and in that case you prefer a lowering of the temperature.
Can you tell me how to modify it?

You know... I wonder if it is worth finalising the code the uno version and moving onto using a larger board? like MEGA :)

I just received some boxes that are a good size and fit a mega (just) in the box. Very happy with that. The box is 140mm wide.
 
Have some uses for extra code space and pins, I'd explain but the fabricator isn't starting till monday on my system, it's like pulling teeth I tell ya!
 
Well, I can say with certainty, my eyes aren't what they used to be... :(
It appears there was a little stray solder across the voltage input to the LCD when I assembled my Brauduino... Seems I fried my ATMega chip on my arduino and consequently the transistors on the board...
Having replaced the transistors and the arduino, I uploaded Mathos code, but got nothing from the screen... So, I replaced the LCD with a 20x4 I had for another project... (I definitely killed the original LCD) :(
Therefore I have changed to ArdBir code (the latest in the Dropbox, I couldn't get the GitHub version to compile!?!)
However I still have a problem I don't get any temp reading just "0.0*C"
I have read that this could be a problem with the connections. But I don't know how to test the sensor... I also get zero when sensor is not connected...
Help please!!!!!
 
I bought a mega for experimenting. $22 from core electronics. Cheap as.

Of all the awesome functions and features being build into the controller, theres one thing id love to see.
Adding to lael's love of unattended brewing

I've been playing with a 1/2" bsp flowmeter and 12v solenoid.

There is some code out that can show flowrate in L/m and total water displaced.

I'd love to see some version of this added to the "Water added?" section where you can actaully say, 35l strike water, then it will open the solenoid,
fill till 35l then turn it off. That would be VERY cool.

Especially if we could get that set for the recipe, so you could delay it to start at 7am, automatically fill 35l, run the rest of the program and be waiting to be chilled at the end!

I don't have the coding knowledge to implement anything. But i think myself and others would see it as a great feature and an awesome addition to an already awesome controller!

Max?? :p
 
Out of curiosity, why not just fill up the vessel manually and then use the timer to start it? Does it matter that your pot has water in it overnight?
 
Edak said:
Out of curiosity, why not just fill up the vessel manually and then use the timer to start it? Does it matter that your pot has water in it overnight?
I was thinking this... unless you are concerned about a prolonged mash - in I guess.

Seems to me a more productive use of that code would be to go hard core and develop a 2 vessel automatic system. 2nd vessel with sparge water. Removal system for malt pipe (hydraulic to hold it in place during mashing and then remove it? but would stuff fall into the pot? I guess if you used food grade lube... ) and then sparge from 2nd vessel and start the boil. Heck automatic hopping whilst you are there... :) In fact - that is the one thing that I really wish I still had - auto hopping - an unattended boil would be nice.

Mash in, sparge, chill, transfer. Good brew day.
 
Pirate323i said:
Well, I can say with certainty, my eyes aren't what they used to be... :(
It appears there was a little stray solder across the voltage input to the LCD when I assembled my Brauduino... Seems I fried my ATMega chip on my arduino and consequently the transistors on the board...
Having replaced the transistors and the arduino, I uploaded Mathos code, but got nothing from the screen... So, I replaced the LCD with a 20x4 I had for another project... (I definitely killed the original LCD) :(
Therefore I have changed to ArdBir code (the latest in the Dropbox, I couldn't get the GitHub version to compile!?!)
However I still have a problem I don't get any temp reading just "0.0*C"
I have read that this could be a problem with the connections. But I don't know how to test the sensor... I also get zero when sensor is not connected...
Help please!!!!!
Some further testing has shown that my buttons dont work with the code (both versions a and b on the dropbox) either. (The buttons do work, I tried a basic code which proved the button on pin A0 works, and all work when tested with a multimeter)

With regard to the 0.0*C reading, I set up a little circuit to figure out the sensor wiring. (which is nothing like the ad on Ebay stated - My sensor is red=positive, yellow=negative and green=data) so I then uploaded an example sketch from the OneWire library and with the sensor connected to/through my Brauduino shield on the Arduino the temperature read fine - this was SOOOO exciting..., so it definitely isnt an issue with my wiring/soldering...

I have gone over the shield and all connections check out with continuity, component values and voltages...

I am at a complete loss... Unfortunately I dont have a great understanding of the code.

one question relating to the code/operation, does running the setup (which I cant do because my buttons dont seem to work) populate the EEPROM?
because if I run a script to read the EEPROM it comes back with '0' for all values!?!
I seem to be in over my head and would appreciate any help! :blink:
thanks in advance!
:unsure:
 
Hi Pirate323i
What PCB have you selected in the sketch?
There are several choices and some have different uses for the pins. So if it is not for the correct one the temp probe may not be connected to the temp pins the program is expecting?

The instructions for ArdBir do explain this setup on first page. But it does require some level of understanding to load libraries and make changes.

Maybe i can talk you through it one evening. Does the original code compile? Load? and work?

James


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 
Yes, the eeprom is not changed at all until you run through the setup.
 
In regards to my comments with the strike water, Its more a convenience thing.
Everything else is automated, why not the strike water too? Seems simple enough.

Also am going to have a play with the hopping too.
Make a small hop dropper, with a servo on each hop linked to the hop alarm on the controller.

All just things to make the controller even more awesome.
 
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