Matho's controller

[nosco]

Do you mean replacing the lcd? The reflashing? Or using the controller for herms? Or changing the pump power over?

All of the above

But add to your reading and knowledge with the herms thread in gear and equipment, it has some really good system specific info.

Ok Ill get back to you about this time next year

Yep I knew it wasnt going to be a quick job. I guess Ill just use it as is for now with a LBP (not my ideal at all) and nut out what I can down the track. Changing the pump would be the first step though.

 

[malt junkie]

Note the box is still available from Jaycar if all the holes and hardware layout won't work for you

 

[nosco]

Note the box is still available from Jaycar if all the holes and hardware layout won't work for you

Putting it in a new case would be a good move. Sean_0 (the guy I bought it from) may be an electrical engineer but he did a **** job of putting it together :unsure:

Is that peice of wire in the pic supposed to be a jumper?

 

[malt junkie]

If your talking the red wire on the Bonjuino then you'd have to ask Bonj (AHB user name) or just replace it with an Arduino Uno ( less than $10 I may even have a spare some where )

 

[nosco]

I have an uno that I used to flash the my stc

 

[nosco]

I think I got dudded

 

[malt junkie]

I think I got dudded

PM sent

 

[nosco]

Thanks Malt Junkie for the support. The enormity of the task has finally dawned on me along with the missing plug screws, dodgey silicone and bend wire jumpers. Only day 2 and Im falling apart

 

[NealK]

Nosco, If you haven't already got this you should read this. This is the guide I used to build my first controller.
http://aussiehomebrewer.com/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_id=66015

 

[nosco]

Thanks Neal! Working out the history of it all is part of the puzzle for as Its all new for me.

Cheers!

 

[nosco]

Dam I would have never found that necro thread.

[SIZE=11pt]http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/69155-bonjuino-and-mathos-controller-30/page-5#entry1023959[/SIZE]

[SIZE=11pt]More reading.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=11pt]OT Im 43 and I'm getting reading glasses soon for the first time. Its very exciting! Really it is very exciting! Will it help me read faster? I hope so.[/SIZE]

 

[zwitter]

Hey Nosco

A little respect please for the years of development across the globe for the great Mathos controller and beyond.

I personally know of people who put incredible amounts of time and money into developing this controller. Both hardware and software have come an amazing way for a privately developed product. This is still growing globally. There is talk of a new board to upgrade the latest version adding even more capabilities.

Even the very first one I bought just like the one you now have in your hands still works and is so much better than not having one.

Back then it was literally home brew controller. Everyone built their own so they were all different and the quality varied. That is why Lael took on the enormous job of the almost pre built controller and it is a very professional product but the price was significantly greater than the early ones. I would think Lael still has them available for sale.

So before slating the controller think about the incredible product you are now potentially part of and enjoy the process of making what you have into the best home brew controller there is!
One you have personally been involved in constructing and improving.

It was a very long wait for some between stumping up the wads of cash and the final delivery of the controller. A very worthwhile wait.

Zwitter
James

We are here to support all those who have these controllers but embrace the love brother, have a beer, read the posts and we will help you get the controller to where you want to take it.



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[nosco]

Sorry zwitter! and others...No disrespect meant at all.

I wasnt referring to the kits/projects/info themselves I was refering to my individual second hand purchase and on that note Ill blame my total lack of knowledge rather than the controller that I bought.

I am in awe of the skill and know how that goes into these (and other Arduino/other) projects. The fact that its open source, in this day and age...is ******* incredible!

I am only just realising that some of the people posting on here are the ones who are creating/pioneering the stuff and giving advise for free.

No disrespect meant.

 

[malt junkie]

so in other news

has been ordered , now to chase down the parts. That way when it arrives in around 8 weeks I should be able to knock it together. I'll be sending a couple to Lael so Zwitter you might again be a guinea pig, hope you haven't lost you knack with the iron mate.

Mike

 

[zwitter]

Hi Malt junkie

Nah all good mate and I may have slightly more free time than Lael.

All good.

Zwitter
James


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[Futur]

Has anyone had any issues with the boil temperature setting to 110C during the ramp to boil, even though you've set it to something completely different in the settings?

This is causing me problems because once I'm at the boil and lower the boil temp to start the boil timer which works, but the PWM doesn't kick in!

So PID continues to try and maintain the boil temperature which is ultimately useless and can't maintain a boil. If I then exit and go into setup and then resume the auto mode, PWM then kicks in with a reset boil timer.

This is giving me a bit of a headache, there is a workaround but it's quite annoying. Has anyone got any suggestions?

 

[zwitter]

Hi Futur

No but I would suggest you double check ALL the setup parameters.

And then post the details here so the version and the variants you have like language, LCD, PCB, type of settings in the PID, etc and then we can try to replicate what you are seeing

Cheers
James
Zwitter

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[Futur]

Hi Futur

No but I would suggest you double check ALL the setup parameters.

And then post the details here so the version and the variants you have like language, LCD, PCB, type of settings in the PID, etc and then we can try to replicate what you are seeing

Cheers
James
Zwitter

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Hi zwitter,

Thanks for offering to help! I have laels kit with ardbir 2.8.3 from github.

A complete list of settings are:
Heating Mode - Gas
P - 100
I - 30
D - 10
Window ms - 2000
Sample time - 1500
PWM - 85%
Calibration - 0.3C

Temperature - C
Sensor - Internal
Boiling - 97C (I've played with this and it's made no difference)
Pump Cycle - 5
Pump reset - 1
Pump premash - off
Pump on mash - on
Pump Mashout - on
During Boil - off
Pump Stop 100C
PID Pipe - active
Skip add - no
Skip remove - no
Skip iodine - yes
Whirlpool - Hot


I've since completely wiped the arduino mega EEPROM and reflashed with 2.8.3 and have the same issue. I've also tried the development RC of 2.8.3 on github and the boil temp still starts at 110C no matter what boil temp is configured in the setup.

There was another bloke with the same issue in the other thread here.

I'm just wondering why this is occurring for me on a completely fresh install of ardbir. Unless it's a feature? I'm keen to try older versions of ardbir, however I can't find them anywhere.

I'm also curious as to why ardbir uses PID for the ramp to boil and doesn't just use a hard temperature set point and run full power? Seems like a lot of time is wasted during the ramp to boil trying to make it to the last few degrees unnecessarily.

 

[zwitter]

Hi futur

Lael's kit is electric NOT gas. Change that to electric and then set all parameters again.

Then give it a try

James
Zwitter


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[MaxN68]

....
I'm also curious as to why ardbir uses PID for the ramp to boil and doesn't just use a hard temperature set point and run full power? Seems like a lot of time is wasted during the ramp to boil trying to make it to the last few degrees unnecessarily.

Ardbir use the PID only during the mash.
Until reaching the boiling point the power are 100% and then is maintained through a PWM directly adjustable

 

[Futur]

Hi futur

Lael's kit is electric NOT gas. Change that to electric and then set all parameters again.

Then give it a try

James
Zwitter


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Well this is embarrassing - I never had it set to gas, I typed that by accident. If it was set to gas it would have never worked in the first place.

I still don't know what the issue is unfortunately.

Ardbir use the PID only during the mash.
Until reaching the boiling point the power are 100% and then is maintained through a PWM directly adjustable

Are you sure about that? The last few degrees when ramping to the boil temperature are painfully slow and I can see the element being switched on and off using PID!

 

[zwitter]

Hi Futur

Ok
I think you need to adjust your P, I & D values in setup.

There are several brief guides to help set the values. They change the speed to reach the temp and by how much you will over shoot by and the hysteresis or how soon it heats again..

I mess with mine often. In fact maybe Sunday arvo or monday as have just added a second element. 2400watts plus another 2400watts = big heat!

The values will vary for every different system. The element size, pot size, temp sensor placement, pump placement and volume etc, the mash pipe position and size etc.

You can sort of edit them on the fly. I usually use water and change the values and target temp and just keep playing to get it to reach target with minimum time and small overshoot.
'
James
Zwitter


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[MaxN68]

Are you sure about that? The last few degrees when ramping to the boil temperature are painfully slow and I can see the element being switched on and off using PID!

I'm sure

 

[Fatamorgana]

Im seling one controller who is just assembled never used. Contact med if interested

 

[MitchD]

I'm sure

Depends on the software version actually. Previous versions did use pid to reach boil then switch over to pwm to maintain. There may be a setting such as "use pid in boil" or you may need to update to a more recent version.

 

[ken_gilchrist]

Hey guys, I'm having a small problem with my controller and I have no idea why. When I fill my Grainfather up with my strike water and set all the automation settings, I then start the brewing process; well my controller starts beeping to say that I am at my strike temp even if it is only at 35 deg (I normally set it for 65). I just let keep beeping until it actually reaches temp then continue but it is a little odd and annoying that it does the "double beep" up until I hit continue button.

Anyone have any ideas what it might be?

 

[grimpanda]

Hey y'all.

I've got an original Matho's/Lael's controller that has been running great with the original Brauduino software, and thought I would upgrade to ArdBir take advantage of the newer features like delayed start.

I've just flashed my Uno to ArdBir 2.8.3 but am having issues on the Setup menu. When cycling through the PID settings my display only shows a faded barely readable text once I scroll past the first option (which is Constant kP)... then it comes good again when I reach the 'Heat in Boil' setting. Obviously not being able to see and set the kI and kD settings presents a problem...

I correctly set the PCB type (Brauduino Original/Matho's kit), LCD size (16x2) and language (English) prior to uploading 2.8.3.

I'm thinking that upgrading to a 4x20 LCD might solve the problem. Does anyone know which module I need?

 

[Neolithic]

Hi guys built my second controller tonight. Not done the 240v wiring side yet.

This one has a problem. When you power up from usb it boots into ardbir etc then the screen contrast starts to fade out and the screen goes blank. The mega leds also stop so its as if the power is fading out. Mega is ok I tried it in my other controller.

Could this be a screen or a board problem? Is the screen changeable?

Cheers

Matt

 

[grimpanda]

Unless something has changed since I built mine, you should have a 12v power supply for the controller.

I'm guessing 5v from the USB isn't supplying enough juice.

 

[Fatamorgana]

Hello my friends from down under.

I seem to have a problem with my brauduino, I think its the latest version, the arduino board is this type: "Board model Mega 2560 R3", and the Brauduino board is "braduino sparky Shiled V. 1.0" Its not been flashed or upgraded on some point

The problem is that my Pump Switch on the board is always in state "1", its always connected, so as soon as I power up my Brauduino the pump starts to run, when I go in manual mode and tries to manipulate the pump by giving command start pump nothing happens with the switch (besides the light go green and I can hear a relay that makes a sound, its just the same, state "1" (connected) all the time. Is there something I can do, or is the board somehow broken? The rest of the Brauduino works great.

Desperate need of help since I have fallen in love with this great little piece wich have taken me through soon my #100 brew <3