Lagering In A Corny

Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum

Help Support Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Well no I'm not sure but I thought when you distil something all the metals get left behind
so there wouldn't be anything to cause the rusting effect between the two metals.
 
Anyway she went into the corny last night and I'll report in May :icon_cheers: :icon_cheers:
 
I'll be having a crack at the Queensland, and if it does any good the State. Last year my lagers didn't do too badly (second in the Pale Lagers in the State) but I really left my run too late and brewed in June and they only got a couple of weeks cold conditioning - wouldn't even dignify it by using the word "lagering" :lol:
 
good luck with the comp. i have a local comp in sunshine coast hinterland coming up in august.
my beer last year wasnt up to standard so didnt enter, but hopefully will have one worthy this year.
 
Reviving an old thread...

If I'm planning to lager in a keg - would I also look to take a portion of the yeast with it into the keg? Plan to then transfer into another keg, leaving the yeast behind.

My understanding is that the yeast has a role to play in the layering 'process?'

Cheers
 
kevo said:
Reviving an old thread...

If I'm planning to lager in a keg - would I also look to take a portion of the yeast with it into the keg? Plan to then transfer into another keg, leaving the yeast behind.

My understanding is that the yeast has a role to play in the layering 'process?'

Cheers
I haven't brewed a ton of lagers so someone is more than welcome to disagree, but my thought is there's going to be enough yeast left in suspension of the beer for the lagering process to occur properly. I'd say don't worry about taking any settled yeast into the keg and let it lager and then serve in the same keg. Saves another transfer that risks oxidation, You'd hate to invest so much time in a top quality lager only for it to get oxidized on the second racking.
 
If after say three weeks of fermentation at 8-10C your lager is bright then I reckon you have a problem !
Otherwise carefully transfer (maybe flush the receiving keg with CO2) the beer cause its full of yeast and go for it...a simple hint is to use some CO2 to just seal the keg after you lock it away, the CO2 generated during algering (not a lot) will help to naturally carbonate the beer.
K
 
Reviving an old thread again.

So I plan to lager my Octoberfest in a corny (transfer this weekend). It's done its primary ferment at 10deg, been raised to 18deg for 48 hours diacetyl rest and is currently being dropped a few degrees a day down to fridge temps. Lagering will be almost exactly 2 months, to be served at (appropriately) an Octoberfest event.

I planned on burping the keg and then using a relief valve on the gas post of the corny to maintain some pressure but relieve excess.

Any ideas on what pressure to set the relief to?
 
I now have a dedicated lagering fridge with three kegs (shortened dip tubes) that have been lagering since the middle of June at 3 degrees. I drew off some beers for bottling a few weeks ago and they are now entered in a comp, then put kegs back in fridge.
When I bottled off for the comp the beer had a nice fine spritz to it but no foaming or undue carb.

Before posting I just went out to the brauhaus and checked them out and gave a bit of a burp to all three via the PRV. Nothing spectacular, a bit of a pfffft

Personally I wouldn't bother with a valve, just let it do its thing and maybe a quick burp once a fortnight. At this stage my lagers are clearly just cleaning up and getting poonced up, not too much active fermentation going on.
 
I agree with Bribie, not much if any fermentation occurs during lagering, it's pretty static so no adjustable relief valve would be required.
If it were me I'd just gas it up after initial filling to seal the Corny, leave it to lager as is until a week before serving and then put it on the gas. Check it during lagering though, just to be sure pressure is being maintained.
Alternatively, if convenient just leave it on the gas throughout, can't see that being harmful.
 
Traditionally in Euro breweries they ferment in primary down to a certain gravity (check Braukaiser for details) then transfer to lagering tanks to finish off. Considering that no commercial brewery in their right mind would tie up their primary fermenters for months, I'd guess there's a certain "free up the primary fermenters ASAP" directive going on there.
If you read Bronzed Brews you'll also pick up on the idea that one reason Australian breweries switched almost entirely to lagers after the Second World War was because having lots of beer in lots of lager tanks enabled them to even out seasonal demand swings, for example during heatwaves where ale brewing wasn't flexible enough and it must have been a logistical headache to match batches to demand if you only did ales.

Anyway back on topic as home brewers we don't have that imperative to get the beer out of primary while still not attenuated. Of course we shouldn't leave it too long on the primary yeast cake but as opposed to a trad German brewery my lagers, for example, are pretty much attenuated when I transfer to my tanks.

I'd opine (now that's a good old word) that the only time you'd need a spunding valve would be if you are following commercial Euro lager brewing to the letter.
 
Cheers guys, this one will have been on primary long enough to achieve pretty close to fg by the time it's down to lager temps.

I'll gas it in keg to seal, I will use the relief valve set at about 12psi. It serves a dual purpose as it has a gauge also. As I won't be able to have the gas hooked up through lagering, it will give me a quick visual indication that it's holding pressure.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top