KegLand Questions and Answers

[KegLand-com-au]

Anyone had a pill separate in wort will my beer be OK its a very expensive NEIPA with a lot of hops? I think I may have angered Mr Boyle and his laws, went from a pressure ferment quick clean and starsan into the new wort post chiller. Guessing from cold crash and 15 psi to 35C and no pressure may have been the cause. NEIPA is now kegged will try in a bit to see if I get an ex-pill hiint
Phew the beer is Ok actually delish n juicy - pill not so much

Hey Paddy. We have heard of this before but its quite rare. As you would know from this Low2 O-ring video silicone has extremly high gas transmission rate. As a result when you have the pill in the wort at a high pressure gas can go into the housing of the pill. If the pill has been at a high pressure for the long time and also if the housing has been either been overtightened or unheightened it can be possible if you let the pressure out quite fast that the housing can blow open. It's rare but the way to avoid this is to:
1. Only tighten the two parts of the housing together enough so that both orings are covered. No need to tighten any more than this.
2. Try to avoid the combination of high pressures above 25psi for an extended period followed immediately by releasing all the pressure suddenly.

If you only used the pill at 15psi I would suggest that 1 is the issue not 2.

 

[clickeral]

@KegLand-com-au any plans to get more of the Voyager range of malt in?

 

[Meddo]

Hi @KegLand-com-au, could you please tell me what the thread size is for the bottom drain fitting on the Gen4 Brewzilla (35L)?

View attachment 123680

@KegLand-com-au bump again, can you please help with this?

 

[KegLand-com-au]

@KegLand-com-au any plans to get more of the Voyager range of malt in?

Yes we have more on the way now. It should be in stock very soon.

 

[KegLand-com-au]

@KegLand-com-au bump again, can you please help with this?

I am sorry but this is a custom thread. If you get a 3/8 nut it might be close enough to fit but unfortunately this particular part is a non-standard thread.

 

[Meddo]

I am sorry but this is a custom thread. If you get a 3/8 nut it might be close enough to fit but unfortunately this particular part is a non-standard thread.

Ok thanks for that. Are spares of this part available?

 

[KegLand-com-au]

Ok thanks for that. Are spares of this part available?

I am sorry it's not generally sold separately. If you contact our customer service office with a photo of the part you need they might be able to salvage one from a damaged unit. We sometimes get some BrewZilla units that get forklift damage and these end up getting used for salvage parts.

 

[Jeffmyers5265]

@KegLand-com-au

I’m guessing these were delayed as I haven’t seen any new information on this?

@KegLand-com-au

Is there a rough estimate of when these could be available?

 

[clickeral]

Hey if I hooked the heating output of this upto a 240v 40amp ssr do you think it could drive a 3600w element and manage a step mash via a herms?

https://www.kegland.com.au/products...QaHeVLd81qTsfAM8Ovj_yhND84qfZdGyDyPT6xOHI_uBg

 

[mauvebib]

Hey if I hooked the heating output of this upto a 240v 40amp ssr do you think it could drive a 3600w element and manage a step mash via a herms?

https://www.kegland.com.au/products...QaHeVLd81qTsfAM8Ovj_yhND84qfZdGyDyPT6xOHI_uBg

I do something similar with my rapt and a glycol chiller

The simplest is to box the SSR up and put a USB socket on to feed the optocoupler in the relay
Then plug a USB charger into the rapt to drive the relay
No mods to the rapt, full optical isolation and simple to repair

 

[TwoCrows]

Clickeral , you could use a Solid-state relay with 80 to 280 VAC control input switches up to 40 A and 240 VAC

The switch side would plug into the RAPT and input and output side to handle the load to the element.
If the SSR switch was 32 v or less you would need to step down the voltage to the SSR.

Only issue is it should be using the same power circuit.
Seek advice from a sparky. !!!

 

[KegLand-com-au]

@KegLand-com-au

Is there a rough estimate of when these could be available?

Clickeral , you could use a Solid-state relay with 80 to 280 VAC control input switches up to 40 A and 240 VAC

The switch side would plug into the RAPT and input and output side to handle the load to the element.
If the SSR switch was 32 v or less you would need to step down the voltage to the SSR.

Only issue is it should be using the same power circuit.
Seek advice from a sparky. !!!

15 Amp - Heavy Duty RAPT Temp Controller

This product above would be a better solution for you.

 

[Jeffmyers5265]

15 Amp - Heavy Duty RAPT Temp Controller

This product above would be a better solution for you.

@KegLand-com-au

Sorry, I was referring to the RAPT regulators and spunding valves in development, not the the temp controller.

 

[Vic]

Yes we have more on the way now. It should be in stock very soon.

Will you be getting any VooDoo? I have found this a very useful addition.

 

[KegLand-com-au]

@KegLand-com-au

Sorry, I was referring to the RAPT regulators and spunding valves in development, not the the temp controller.

RAPT Digital Regulator & Spunding Valve - RAPT Digital Regulator and Spunding Valve

The link above has some further information on the product. I think this product will be available in about 4 months. Sorry about the long wait.

 

[clickeral]

Clickeral , you could use a Solid-state relay with 80 to 280 VAC control input switches up to 40 A and 240 VAC

The switch side would plug into the RAPT and input and output side to handle the load to the element.
If the SSR switch was 32 v or less you would need to step down the voltage to the SSR.

Only issue is it should be using the same power circuit.
Seek advice from a sparky. !!!

Yeah plan was to hardwire the Rapt heat output to the SSR and drive the element via the SSR similar to running a pid but with the Rapt wireless options and mashing profiles etc.

If the Rapt has PID control it would be good to ramp the element up and down but on/off could work as well

Just swapped my HLT/Herms to a 4800w element but could go back to a 3600w if I really had too (could run the 15amp Rapt without any mods)

 

[TwoCrows]

I run two elements on my Herms, one to get to temp fast and one to maintain by pid control. 10 amp was all I had to play with back then.
Just running of two separate GPO's/ one for each element.

If you ran both of yours it would get to temp really fast.

 

[PeteRepeat]

Hi @KegLand-com-au

Are there any safety issues with storing a CO2 bottle and nitrogen canister together (for a future kegerator) under a weatherproof bench, alongside an LPG bottle for an adjoining bbq? The bench is in a shady location, but enclosed by walls and front cabinetry. Cheers.

 

[clickeral]

I run two elements on my Herms, one to get to temp fast and one to maintain by pid control. 10 amp was all I had to play with back then.
Just running of two separate GPO's/ one for each element.

If you ran both of yours it would get to temp really fast.

Yeah I have a 50amp supply to my shed and a 20amp plug right next to my herms/HLT my kettle has dual 15amp on a 32amp circuit (I won't be running both at the same time) Sadly I only have one element port on my HLT (don't really want to add another)

I have made up a dumb PID controller box that I need to add a wireless relay too so I can turn it on and off remotely but will have a go with that and then revisit the RAPT 15amp temp controller

I'm going to build a full control panel but looking for options for mashing control, pretty sure ill be getting an Auber EZBoil for the kettle side, can reuse my existing PID for MLT temp.

Was thinking of hacking up a RAPT controller and using it to run the HERMS/HLT SSR to run the element, though would like a way to read HLT temp, HERMS inlet and outlet temp etc

 

[Barãob]

Hey...Good morning...I heard that it is not necessary to whirpool in generation 4...due to the central hole in the pan...is that true?