You could give this a go but I would be a surprised if this made a significant difference.
How big is the tank that you are connecting to? What is the difference in height from the tap to the top surface of the liquid?
KegLand Questions and Answers
- Thread starter KegLand-com-au
- Start date
Help Support Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum:
You could give this a go but I would be a surprised if this made a significant difference.
How big is the tank that you are connecting to? What is the difference in height from the tap to the top surface of the liquid?
My tank is 40 ltrs and the taps are level with the centre of the tanks.
My beer line is glycol chilled as well as the flooded font. All of which are insulated in 2 layers of k-flex foam tubing.
I extended my 4mm beer line to 4.5m in total and it now pours perfectly.
The beer is definitely not over carbonated as the tank has a pressure gauge and I also have the inline regulators and both are as they should be.
So I am now happy with it all, but am still stumped as to why I needed 4.5m of the line, with 12.5psi beer, you would think that would be too much resistance and the beer would drip out of the taps, if at all.
Anyway, it works, so can't complain.
Thanks
As long as it works
. Some setups are just weird for reasons nobody can explain.I have a kegerator, carbonate and serve at 15PSI. 50cm (yes, 0.5 metres) of 6mm ID hose from keg to tap. it's always poured perfectly (apart from the obligatory "cooling down the tap" bit of foam at the start of a pour).
Last edited:
Yeah I am totally stumped. The numbers don't seem to add up and I really can't work out why you would need so much line.
Boxcar
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- 26/5/17
- Messages
- 63
- Reaction score
- 26
Everyone is chasing the same old Ventmatic design here. There are many ways to open and close flow of a valve. Rotary concept is more in line with how all modern plumbing fixtures work.
1. Greater thermal mass also means they stay at temperature longer. So when cooled, they stay cool longer. But in a new design, there's no reason the mass couldn't be reduced. I'm not suggesting releasing the same product someone else already has - not much point in that.
2. No. There's no cavity at all. The path exposed within the valve when rotated is the same diameter as the hole in the shank. There's nowhere else for beer to go. The "business" parts total (what opens and closes the flow of beer), is basically two pieces. A faucet body and a rotating valve which features two integrated o-rings. That's it. Rated to over 1 million pours before the valve cartridge even needs to be considered for replacement. There's nothing else on the market that's even remotely close in terms of hygiene.
3. No, not at all, not by a long shot. Maybe you're thinking of some chinese rotary valve. Take a look at the Intertap parts list and then one for the Rototap.
1. Greater thermal mass also means they stay at temperature longer. So when cooled, they stay cool longer. But in a new design, there's no reason the mass couldn't be reduced. I'm not suggesting releasing the same product someone else already has - not much point in that.
2. No. There's no cavity at all. The path exposed within the valve when rotated is the same diameter as the hole in the shank. There's nowhere else for beer to go. The "business" parts total (what opens and closes the flow of beer), is basically two pieces. A faucet body and a rotating valve which features two integrated o-rings. That's it. Rated to over 1 million pours before the valve cartridge even needs to be considered for replacement. There's nothing else on the market that's even remotely close in terms of hygiene.
3. No, not at all, not by a long shot. Maybe you're thinking of some chinese rotary valve. Take a look at the Intertap parts list and then one for the Rototap.
I was thinking a mark machined on the top of the knob, whether proud or indented. Perhaps a dot, or a line from the centre to outer edge. Or a "master spline" somehow distinct from the rest of the rest of the knurling on the side of the knob.
The outlet fitting will suffice as a reference point on the main body of the fitting.
onemorecell
Well-Known Member
Works in mine, but I have to have my phone sitting on top of the fermenter and then open the app
If the app is already open then I go near, it never works
- Joined
- 17/11/14
- Messages
- 50
- Reaction score
- 14
Bump. @KegLand-com-au if this is true, is this a new version, or just a firmware update on the 3.1 models manufactured after a certain date?
Cheers
Engibeer
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- 1/9/13
- Messages
- 376
- Reaction score
- 109
With the rising popularity of low oxygen brewing, any chance of making an affordable digital dissolved oxygen meter similar to the below?
https://mymeter.com.au/product/extech-do600-waterproof-exstik-ii-dissolved-oxygen-meter/
https://mymeter.com.au/product/extech-do600-waterproof-exstik-ii-dissolved-oxygen-meter/
Kegland - I just bought the AllRounder Fermzilla and I drilled into the lid as per the youtube video to install the thermowell.
When I pressure tested the Fermzilla I get a leak out of the thermowell where the o-ring connects to the lid.
Now I think I did a botched job of drilling the hole and it isn't even however before I went down the path of buying a replacement lid and having another go I wanted to confirm a couple of things:
1. I'm assuming if done properly the thermowell can still be drilled/installed and the Fermzilla still be used a pressure fermenter?
2. When fitting the thermowell connector, how tight should this be screwed onto the lid? I found that if tightened too much it slips and is then loose again. Is hand tightining enough or do you need spanners to ensure it is very tight?
Thanks
When I pressure tested the Fermzilla I get a leak out of the thermowell where the o-ring connects to the lid.
Now I think I did a botched job of drilling the hole and it isn't even however before I went down the path of buying a replacement lid and having another go I wanted to confirm a couple of things:
1. I'm assuming if done properly the thermowell can still be drilled/installed and the Fermzilla still be used a pressure fermenter?
2. When fitting the thermowell connector, how tight should this be screwed onto the lid? I found that if tightened too much it slips and is then loose again. Is hand tightining enough or do you need spanners to ensure it is very tight?
Thanks
Sorry to hear about your woes. I was lucky enough to fit my thermowell without incident. Just hand tighten the nut inside the lid. You should find the plastic fitting cuts it's own thread in the lid which partially helps with sealing. Make sure you chamfer the lid to allow the o-ring to seat properly, as per the vid. Good luck!
In case anyone else was looking for it, the carbonation soda water keg lid is in stock. Once again, no "in stock" email sent out...
https://www.kegland.com.au/soda-carbonator-keg-reactor-lid-continuous-soda-water-solution.html
https://www.kegland.com.au/soda-carbonator-keg-reactor-lid-continuous-soda-water-solution.html
Yep. They became available about 11am yesterday, but the email notification arrived after midnight this morning.
I was refreshing my screen all day yesterday waiting for them to drop. PIcked one up along with a new corny keg and a bunch of hoses and fittings just to make sure I can install without issue. I just need to grab a water filter tap from Bunnings and then I'm going to install this on my kitchen sink, running through the wall to my Kegerator in the garage. Very excited to have cold carbonated water flowing in the kitchen. I love my Soda Stream but it's expensive and it's fiddly.
I bought a set of "syrup pump" lids off Amazon, designed to fit on a SodaStream syrup bottle and they work great. A couple of quick pumps into a glass, add the soda water and you're set.
https://www.amazon.com.au/Nifty-SP1-6-Soda-Stream-Syrup/dp/B00BTI9Z8A/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Nifty+SP1-6+Soda+Stream+Syrup+Pump(Pack+of+6)&qid=1578433123&s=home&sr=1-1
With six lids in the pack, I have six different soda flavours in the cupboard and can make up a glass of whatever I want.
With this hot weather, it will be great to have all the tonic water I can drink for G&T's!!
Engibeer
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- 1/9/13
- Messages
- 376
- Reaction score
- 109
i didn't get an in-stock email either.
Triggered and off topic, but.. soda water and an appropriately flavoured garnish is all you need for a good gin..
brisie
Well-Known Member
My first time fermenting with the FZ I found a trick don't know if it's been discovered or mentioned before but worth repeating if i has.
The tool for taking off the 10" under sink water filters fits the trub collection container perfectly if you need a little extra leverage. As in the photo https://www.kegland.com.au/beer-filtering-system-10inch.html
The tool for taking off the 10" under sink water filters fits the trub collection container perfectly if you need a little extra leverage. As in the photo https://www.kegland.com.au/beer-filtering-system-10inch.html
Not really.Triggered and off topic, but.. soda water and an appropriately flavoured garnish is all you need for a good gin..
I mean if you like the taste of gin on its own sure then sure, that's true, but if you prefer the taste of gin with tonic, then a G&T is going to be better.
I personally am not a fan of scotch on its own but I quite enjoy it with coke. I personally prefer most spirits with mixers. That's a personal taste preference.
You can't actually state as a fact: "this way of mixing a drink is better than that way" because it's completely a personal preference thing.
I personally hate a lot of beer styles that folks around here make (NEIPA's taste terrible to me) but that doesn't mean they are inherently bad or good. I was on holidays in the UK last year and really enjoyed drinking John Smiths Extra Smooth in the Nitro cans but a lot of folks will say it's bloody awful. I liked it so that's all that matters
What I think you meant to say was: "... soda water and an appropriately flavoured garnish is all I need for a good gin.."
Similar threads
