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Does anyone use the 96% Phosphuric acid for their pH adjustments?

If so what is the flavour threshold, as in is there a maximum mls/ltr or mls/Kg of grain? I know it comes down to grist and salts in the water etc but a ballpark figure would be good. I cannot find anything on the internet as to limits. Even when using 10% or 85% amounts that the Americans use.

For instance the 88% Lactic threshold comes in at around .4mls/Ltr

Thanks
 
Does anyone use the 96% Phosphuric acid for their pH adjustments?

If so what is the flavour threshold, as in is there a maximum mls/ltr or mls/Kg of grain? I know it comes down to grist and salts in the water etc but a ballpark figure would be good. I cannot find anything on the internet as to limits. Even when using 10% or 85% amounts that the Americans use.

For instance the 88% Lactic threshold comes in at around .4mls/Ltr

Thanks
I use Lactic acid 88% around 2.6ml / 26L mash which is only 0.1ml/L same ratio for sparge water
As per MHB post
"Phosphoric acid reacts with Calcium in your water, forming insoluble Calcium Lactate and leaving a bunch of Hydrogen ions behind (making it acidic) but it will remove Calcium and anyone using RO water is paying good money for an acid that will remove some of the Calcium, so you need to add more... it gets sort of circular."
https://aussiehomebrewer.com/threads/brewfather-and-water-chemistry.101325/#post-1546828
 
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I 100% agree with the need for a valve, for fixed and portable setups, as I don't trust having to turn the reg down (and with a portable setup you often want to make fine adjustments / leak test when you set everything up).

I have raised this with KK and KL in the past, however neither seemed interested in including the outlet ball valve with the regulator. I have a very old KK reg that came with a 1/4" valve and have subsequently fitted ball valves to each of my other regs.

Pin extraction on a SS reg would achieve this.
 
I was referring to the FC disconnect in the post you quoted, but since you asked....
  • Better retention of the nylon washer. Damn things keep trying to run away! So far only one has escaped :mad:. If not, could you make the washers readily available as a spare part like the $2 10 pack of keg post o-rings
  • Instead of having to use a barb fitting if you want/need to use hose, could you fit an MFL to the reg so duotight fittings can be used?
If I think of anything else, I'll post here again.

Yes that is a good point. Having a washer that holds captive in the female side would be ideal.
 
Don’t worry about the bells and whistles on this one, from what I have seen (from all the various manufacturers) you want to be spending 99% of the engineering/quality effort on making them more reliable. If you can do this then you will probably find there is a much bigger demand for them.

Thanks for that. We will take this into consideration.
 
@KegLand-com-au for some reason i can't log into my account on your website, tried resetting my password but i haven't received the reset email. Tried multiple times, even creating a new account but it won't let me because i already have one. Any ideas?
 
Not sure if it's AVG overreacting or if your site really is trying to inject a browser script but I got this message when trying to load the bucket blaster link earlier

upload_2020-1-13_21-57-29.png
 
G40 takes 4 days to go from 28⁰ to -10 , then can't keep fermenter at 18⁰.

Not good enough for a warranty claim!
 
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@KegLand-com-au for some reason i can't log into my account on your website, tried resetting my password but i haven't received the reset email. Tried multiple times, even creating a new account but it won't let me because i already have one. Any ideas?

We did up grade security recently so longer passwords are required. If you are in this category then we need to manually reset this on the back end. Any chance you can give us a call to sort this out out for you. It will only take a couple moments once we have the related email address.
 
Not sure if it's AVG overreacting or if your site really is trying to inject a browser script but I got this message when trying to load the bucket blaster link earlier

View attachment 117261

This has also been changed yesterday at about 5pm. So if you have a look now this has also been fixed. Please let us know if you have the same issue but to my understanding this has been resolved already.
 
G40 takes 4 days to go from 28⁰ to -10 , then can't keep fermenter at 18⁰.

Not good enough for a warranty claim!

Can you please send a photo of your setup so we can see how much heat ingress you have. The G40 have approximately 1kw of cooling capacity.

What is the size of your fermenter, what is the type of insulation? Can you please give us a bit more information so we can better understand the conditions and make some estimations of the heat load.
 
Yes we have made this very slight adjustment and technically these new versions with the new firmware are called a 3.1.1 model. The change in the firmware is only very minor and for many home brewers you may not even require this feature. Customers have already been making consistent prize winning home brew on the BrewZilla without this feature. With that said we will sell the upgrade boards separately if you really feel this upgrade is something you want to do. Flashing the firmware is really very complicated so would recommend just replacing the board if you think it's necessary.

I am out of the office at the moment but on Monday I will check with the dates and let you know the switch from 3.1 to 3.1.1 has been done and let you know.
Hi KL, just wondering if you've been able to find out from which date the version changed to 3.1.1 and is this the same date for both the 35 and 65l units?

To clarify/confirm, the change is to make sure the step timer doesn't start until the BZ has reached the step temp?
 
Can you please send a photo of your setup so we can see how much heat ingress you have. The G40 have approximately 1kw of cooling capacity.

What is the size of your fermenter, what is the type of insulation? Can you please give us a bit more information so we can better understand the conditions and make some estimations of the heat load.
1bbl unitank with neoprene jacket. When I last used it in October it had ice over chiller lines and was able to drop it to 0⁰c , now it doesn't even move the temp.
I have turned the recirc to chiller lines off and it hasn't even dropped 1⁰ in 2 hours.
 
We made the change in the manufacturing process several months ago however the changes take quite a few months to trickle through to all the various distributors internationally and it's hard to pinpoint exactly when every distributor had the new stock. Definitely all the stock at KegLand in Melbourne has been the new 3.1.1 stock for more than 4 weeks.

You can see some information on how to do the upgrade if you really want to and also the difference in the upgrade in this PDF here:
https://www.kegland.com.au/media/pdf/Brewzilla-Gen-3.1.1-circuit-board-instruction-manual.pdf

You can purchase the upgrade kit here:
https://www.kegland.com.au/brewzilla-generation-3-1-upgrade-kit.html

With that said it's really not a necessary upgrade in my opinion and the difference is really quite minor.
Hi KL, just wondering if you've been able to find out from which date the version changed to 3.1.1 and is this the same date for both the 35 and 65l units?

To clarify/confirm, the change is to make sure the step timer doesn't start until the BZ has reached the step temp?
 
1bbl unitank with neoprene jacket. When I last used it in October it had ice over chiller lines and was able to drop it to 0⁰c , now it doesn't even move the temp.
I have turned the recirc to chiller lines off and it hasn't even dropped 1⁰ in 2 hours.

The neoprene jackets are really not great method of insulation for something that ideally you want to crash chill for up to a couple weeks. The energy lost in this fairly basic insulation might warrant you upgrading to more substantial insulation.

With that said if you see a degradation in cooling performance can you please look at the vents and see if your condenser is blocked up with dust. This is the most common cause of performance degradation. You should air blow these fins out once every 12 months or so (depending on how much dust you have around).

Also when you put your hand in front of the condenser is the fan blowing the air out this vent at a reasonable velocity?
 
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