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If your serving pressure is within usual beer ranges then the line length is not the problem here.

Unless the line diameter were mis-marked, I'd be looking at the variables of temperature or the agitation introduced by your 1/2"TC and reducer. If you're confident there are no temperature changes across the line (e.g. if the tap or line are warmer) then maybe try switching out the 1/2"TC with a 1/4" outlet.

You could give this a go but I would be a surprised if this made a significant difference.

How big is the tank that you are connecting to? What is the difference in height from the tap to the top surface of the liquid?
 
You could give this a go but I would be a surprised if this made a significant difference.

How big is the tank that you are connecting to? What is the difference in height from the tap to the top surface of the liquid?
My tank is 40 ltrs and the taps are level with the centre of the tanks.

My beer line is glycol chilled as well as the flooded font. All of which are insulated in 2 layers of k-flex foam tubing.

I extended my 4mm beer line to 4.5m in total and it now pours perfectly.

The beer is definitely not over carbonated as the tank has a pressure gauge and I also have the inline regulators and both are as they should be.

So I am now happy with it all, but am still stumped as to why I needed 4.5m of the line, with 12.5psi beer, you would think that would be too much resistance and the beer would drip out of the taps, if at all.

Anyway, it works, so can't complain.

Thanks
 
My tank is 40 ltrs and the taps are level with the centre of the tanks.

My beer line is glycol chilled as well as the flooded font. All of which are insulated in 2 layers of k-flex foam tubing.

I extended my 4mm beer line to 4.5m in total and it now pours perfectly.

The beer is definitely not over carbonated as the tank has a pressure gauge and I also have the inline regulators and both are as they should be.

So I am now happy with it all, but am still stumped as to why I needed 4.5m of the line, with 12.5psi beer, you would think that would be too much resistance and the beer would drip out of the taps, if at all.

Anyway, it works, so can't complain.

Thanks
As long as it works :drinkingbeer:. Some setups are just weird for reasons nobody can explain.

I have a kegerator, carbonate and serve at 15PSI. 50cm (yes, 0.5 metres) of 6mm ID hose from keg to tap. it's always poured perfectly (apart from the obligatory "cooling down the tap" bit of foam at the start of a pour).
 
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My tank is 40 ltrs and the taps are level with the centre of the tanks.

My beer line is glycol chilled as well as the flooded font. All of which are insulated in 2 layers of k-flex foam tubing.

I extended my 4mm beer line to 4.5m in total and it now pours perfectly.

The beer is definitely not over carbonated as the tank has a pressure gauge and I also have the inline regulators and both are as they should be.

So I am now happy with it all, but am still stumped as to why I needed 4.5m of the line, with 12.5psi beer, you would think that would be too much resistance and the beer would drip out of the taps, if at all.

Anyway, it works, so can't complain.

Thanks

Yeah I am totally stumped. The numbers don't seem to add up and I really can't work out why you would need so much line.
 
Everyone is chasing the same old Ventmatic design here. There are many ways to open and close flow of a valve. Rotary concept is more in line with how all modern plumbing fixtures work.

2. They have a cavity inside the tap that is not particularly sanitary.
3. I dont think they have less parts at all. They have more parts as far as I am aware.

1. Greater thermal mass also means they stay at temperature longer. So when cooled, they stay cool longer. But in a new design, there's no reason the mass couldn't be reduced. I'm not suggesting releasing the same product someone else already has - not much point in that.

2. No. There's no cavity at all. The path exposed within the valve when rotated is the same diameter as the hole in the shank. There's nowhere else for beer to go. The "business" parts total (what opens and closes the flow of beer), is basically two pieces. A faucet body and a rotating valve which features two integrated o-rings. That's it. Rated to over 1 million pours before the valve cartridge even needs to be considered for replacement. There's nothing else on the market that's even remotely close in terms of hygiene.

3. No, not at all, not by a long shot. Maybe you're thinking of some chinese rotary valve. Take a look at the Intertap parts list and then one for the Rototap.

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That's a fair point. I will bring this up with the others. To move from fully open to fully closed you need to rotate the knob a couple of complete revolutions so graduations on the knob would be a bit tricky but I will talk to the others about this and see if we can find a solution.
I was thinking a mark machined on the top of the knob, whether proud or indented. Perhaps a dot, or a line from the centre to outer edge. Or a "master spline" somehow distinct from the rest of the rest of the knurling on the side of the knob.

The outlet fitting will suffice as a reference point on the main body of the fitting.
 
I have just received my TILT Hydrometer from Kegland and although the test in distilled water all worked fine, putting it in my Kegland 58lt Kegmenter it just won't work. I was hoping to use this for pressure fermenting. Has anyone else had any problems getting it to send a signal from inside the Kegland kegmenter? It is advertised as: Universal: Works in most standard carboys, corny kegs, refrigerators, stainless steel fermenters, even under pressure! Am I doing something wrong?
Removing the lid of the kegmenter I get the signal, putting the lid back on to ferment, nothing.
Works in mine, but I have to have my phone sitting on top of the fermenter and then open the app
If the app is already open then I go near, it never works
 
Kegland - I just bought the AllRounder Fermzilla and I drilled into the lid as per the youtube video to install the thermowell.
When I pressure tested the Fermzilla I get a leak out of the thermowell where the o-ring connects to the lid.
Now I think I did a botched job of drilling the hole and it isn't even however before I went down the path of buying a replacement lid and having another go I wanted to confirm a couple of things:
1. I'm assuming if done properly the thermowell can still be drilled/installed and the Fermzilla still be used a pressure fermenter?
2. When fitting the thermowell connector, how tight should this be screwed onto the lid? I found that if tightened too much it slips and is then loose again. Is hand tightining enough or do you need spanners to ensure it is very tight?

Thanks
 
Sorry to hear about your woes. I was lucky enough to fit my thermowell without incident. Just hand tighten the nut inside the lid. You should find the plastic fitting cuts it's own thread in the lid which partially helps with sealing. Make sure you chamfer the lid to allow the o-ring to seat properly, as per the vid. Good luck!
 
In case anyone else was looking for it, the carbonation soda water keg lid is in stock. Once again, no "in stock" email sent out...

https://www.kegland.com.au/soda-carbonator-keg-reactor-lid-continuous-soda-water-solution.html
Yep. They became available about 11am yesterday, but the email notification arrived after midnight this morning.
I was refreshing my screen all day yesterday waiting for them to drop. PIcked one up along with a new corny keg and a bunch of hoses and fittings just to make sure I can install without issue. I just need to grab a water filter tap from Bunnings and then I'm going to install this on my kitchen sink, running through the wall to my Kegerator in the garage. Very excited to have cold carbonated water flowing in the kitchen. I love my Soda Stream but it's expensive and it's fiddly.
I bought a set of "syrup pump" lids off Amazon, designed to fit on a SodaStream syrup bottle and they work great. A couple of quick pumps into a glass, add the soda water and you're set.
https://www.amazon.com.au/Nifty-SP1-6-Soda-Stream-Syrup/dp/B00BTI9Z8A/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Nifty+SP1-6+Soda+Stream+Syrup+Pump(Pack+of+6)&qid=1578433123&s=home&sr=1-1
With six lids in the pack, I have six different soda flavours in the cupboard and can make up a glass of whatever I want.
With this hot weather, it will be great to have all the tonic water I can drink for G&T's!!
 
My first time fermenting with the FZ I found a trick don't know if it's been discovered or mentioned before but worth repeating if i has.
The tool for taking off the 10" under sink water filters fits the trub collection container perfectly if you need a little extra leverage. As in the photo https://www.kegland.com.au/beer-filtering-system-10inch.html
 
Triggered and off topic, but.. soda water and an appropriately flavoured garnish is all you need for a good gin.. ;)
Not really.
I mean if you like the taste of gin on its own sure then sure, that's true, but if you prefer the taste of gin with tonic, then a G&T is going to be better.
I personally am not a fan of scotch on its own but I quite enjoy it with coke. I personally prefer most spirits with mixers. That's a personal taste preference.
You can't actually state as a fact: "this way of mixing a drink is better than that way" because it's completely a personal preference thing.
I personally hate a lot of beer styles that folks around here make (NEIPA's taste terrible to me) but that doesn't mean they are inherently bad or good. I was on holidays in the UK last year and really enjoyed drinking John Smiths Extra Smooth in the Nitro cans but a lot of folks will say it's bloody awful. I liked it so that's all that matters

What I think you meant to say was: "... soda water and an appropriately flavoured garnish is all I need for a good gin.." ;)
 
Hey Kegland, what's the permeability coefficient of the EVABARRIER tubing?

Cheers
 

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