Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum

Help Support Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Not a good way to test.

Instead, leave the regulator set to the desired pressure. Turn off the gas bottle valve. Wait. Both, the high pressure and the low pressure side should remain stable.
Thanks, doing it now. Will post tomorrow the result.
 
well, in about 5 hours I have the initially set 50PSI on LP side, but HP went from 750 PSI to about 500 PSI. With that I conclude that the leak is stronger at higher pressure. I guess the reg is going back to amazon for replacement.

Also, it would be great if the vendor could post an 'official' testing protocol, it would make our life so much easier.
 
Hi guys,
If the thread is wrong, please redirect me.
I am kind of new to kegging and would teally appreciate a little help with my brand new MK3 from Kegland.
I bought it new from Amazon in the Great Whire North and having a very slow leak around 0.5-1 psi per hour.

Here is the test I perform having a gas line connected to the regulator but not to the keg:
1) With the knob completely removed from the reg, I open the CO2 bottle, so that the HP gauge goes to 750PSI.
2) I trun off the bottle and leave it ovenight. In the morning there is still 750 PSI, so I conclude no leak on the HP side
3) I turn on the bottle and set 50 PSI on the LP side by screwing the knob in.
4) I turn off the bottle and unscrew the know completely out leaving both the HP and LP sides pressurized.
5) In about 24 hours I have about 25 PSI left on the LP gauge.

The problem is that I cannot detect any leaks neither on the gas line nor on the regulator with both soapy water or by submergin the gas line and the pin lock QD into water.
Is that kind of leak something normal or shall I return the reg?
What psi did you carb your beer at?
How long did you leave the beer to carb?
Is the beer at the same temp it was when you carbed it?
I would bet my left and right nut you have no leak and the drop in pressure is because your beer is absorbing the c02. 50psi is way too much pressure for beer. Your carbing pressure should be around 8 to 12 psi depending on desired levels of c02 and temp of beer.
 
What psi did you carb your beer at?
How long did you leave the beer to carb?
Is the beer at the same temp it was when you carbed it?
I would bet my left and right nut you have no leak and the drop in pressure is because your beer is absorbing the c02. 50psi is way too much pressure for beer. Your carbing pressure should be around 8 to 12 psi depending on desired levels of c02 and temp of beer.
There is no beer. CO2 is disconnected. I am trying to make sure that there is no leak before the return window at Amazon closes
 
What psi did you carb your beer at?
How long did you leave the beer to carb?
Is the beer at the same temp it was when you carbed it?
I would bet my left and right nut you have no leak and the drop in pressure is because your beer is absorbing the c02. 50psi is way too much pressure for beer. Your carbing pressure should be around 8 to 12 psi depending on desired levels of c02 and temp of beer.
From my reading I don't think it was connected to a keg at all.
 
Hey Kegland. Do you have any plans to make a oneway duo fitting that threads directly to the regulator?
Also - there was some discussion around making universal ball locks that fit both gas and beer disconnects, are these still going to be available? Cheers.
 
I'd be ordering a few containers, wouldn't stop at one, they are going to sell! Although it would break the classic "out of stock" tradition..

Until we have the automation setup on the production line the speed at which we can manufacture them is going to be the constraint. So even when more stock is available we will be spreading the stock pretty thin here in Australia and to other customers in America, Canada and Europe. So definitely we will have stock issue to begin with but after some time the automation on the production line will be complete and this will not be a problem. Trust me, we are doing everything we can to speed the process up.
 
Not a good way to test.

Instead, leave the regulator set to the desired pressure. Turn off the gas bottle valve. Wait. Both, the high pressure and the low pressure side should remain stable.

Yes would agree with this method. Please also remember that if you have a keg hooked up and have liquid in the keg CO2 will dissolve in the liquid and the pressure will drop. I know to most of you guys here this is obvious but we get this happen quite frequently so just putting that out there.
 
Hey Kegland. Do you have any plans to make a oneway duo fitting that threads directly to the regulator?
Also - there was some discussion around making universal ball locks that fit both gas and beer disconnects, are these still going to be available? Cheers.


We have not had much of a request for this part. We did recently start making this part:
https://www.kegland.com.au/premium-...mfl-grey-gas-with-integrated-check-valve.html

We obviously have this one but I assume you know that already:
https://www.kegland.com.au/duotight-8mm-5-16-x-one-way-check-valve-non-return-valve.html

So the only check valves that will screw directly into the regulator body at this stage is this one:
https://www.kegland.com.au/1-4-inch-ball-valve-with-check-valve.html

I must say it's not something we get asked for much so we have not designed and have no plans to make a duotight fitting/check valve that screws into the regulator body.

I personally don't really like using a check valve between my regulator and kegs for a couple different reasons:
1. You get a small pressure drop over the check valve. So when i set my regulator at 12psi for instance, the check valve will drop the pressure to about 9-11psi. I dont really like this fact but that's simply how check valves work. They have an opening pressure that the gas needs to overcome in order to work and this results in a pressure drop.
2. Clearly you can sometimes in be in a situation where the you relief gas in the regulator side and then as the pressure is lower the pressure gauge doesn't read the actual pressure in the keg anymore.

So although I recommend beginners to get a check valve I personally just make sure I am a bit careful and i prefer not to use one myself. If you have a bit of experience and you are a bit careful you can easily get away without a check valve.
 
We have not had much of a request for this part. We did recently start making this part:
https://www.kegland.com.au/premium-...mfl-grey-gas-with-integrated-check-valve.html

We obviously have this one but I assume you know that already:
https://www.kegland.com.au/duotight-8mm-5-16-x-one-way-check-valve-non-return-valve.html

So the only check valves that will screw directly into the regulator body at this stage is this one:
https://www.kegland.com.au/1-4-inch-ball-valve-with-check-valve.html

I must say it's not something we get asked for much so we have not designed and have no plans to make a duotight fitting/check valve that screws into the regulator body.

I personally don't really like using a check valve between my regulator and kegs for a couple different reasons:
1. You get a small pressure drop over the check valve. So when i set my regulator at 12psi for instance, the check valve will drop the pressure to about 9-11psi. I dont really like this fact but that's simply how check valves work. They have an opening pressure that the gas needs to overcome in order to work and this results in a pressure drop.
2. Clearly you can sometimes in be in a situation where the you relief gas in the regulator side and then as the pressure is lower the pressure gauge doesn't read the actual pressure in the keg anymore.

So although I recommend beginners to get a check valve I personally just make sure I am a bit careful and i prefer not to use one myself. If you have a bit of experience and you are a bit careful you can easily get away without a check valve.
Thank you.
 
I am interested in the grain mill but as I work for Electrical Compliance here in Canberra I have my doubts about the compliance of this. https://www.kegland.com.au/24v-dc-2...60hz-with-anderson-plug-high-amp-current.html
I have seen where you state you have approval for this unit, and seeing that the laws have now changed in Victoria, coming into effect on April 1st 2019 for almost all electrical units. Can you give an assurance that it does comply and maybe even the compliance number.
 
I am interested in the grain mill but as I work for Electrical Compliance here in Canberra I have my doubts about the compliance of this. https://www.kegland.com.au/24v-dc-2...60hz-with-anderson-plug-high-amp-current.html
I have seen where you state you have approval for this unit, and seeing that the laws have now changed in Victoria, coming into effect on April 1st 2019 for almost all electrical units. Can you give an assurance that it does comply and maybe even the compliance number.
If its a grain mill you are interested in they can be powered with a drill or manually with a handle that’s usually supplied so you don’t actually need the linked power supply.

Can you elaborate on what the laws have changed in Victoria and how they may prohibit the power supply? Is it only Victoria the law has changed?

Edit: I can’t find the MaltZilla Grain Mill (KL07467) mentioned in the link so maybe that does need the power supply
 
Last edited:
So, I followed all the suggestions and left it with pressure set at 50 PSI with no keg connected and pressure dropped to 0 on both gauges in three days. With that I conclude there is a leak presumably somewhere inside of the reg., because I see nothing with soapy water. Therefore, reg, is going back to Amazon for a replacement.

As a suggestion, it would be fantastic if the vendor could post some 'official' protocol of leak testing. It would make life much easier for so many of us.

Thank you everyone for your inputs!
 
If its a grain mill you are interested in they can be powered with a drill or manually with a handle that’s usually supplied so you don’t actually need the linked power supply.

Can you elaborate on what the laws have changed in Victoria and how they may prohibit the power supply? Is it only Victoria the law has changed?

Edit: I can’t find the MaltZilla Grain Mill (KL07467) mentioned in the link so maybe that does need the power supply
Thanks for that, I will use a drill in that case.
This amendment will just about cover most electrical goods.


Victoria Government Gazette No. S 517 Tuesday 30 October 2018 By Authority of Victorian Government Printer Electricity Safety Amendment (Electrical Equipment Safety Scheme) Act 2018 PROCLAMATION OF COMMENCEMENT I, Linda Dessau, Governor of Victoria, with the advice of the Executive Council and under section 2 of the Electricity Safety Amendment (Electrical Equipment Safety Scheme) Act 2018, fix 1 April 2019 as the day on which that Act comes into operation. Given under my hand and the seal of Victoria on 30 October 2018 (L.S.) LINDA DESSAU The Honourable Linda Dessau AC Governor By Her Excellency’s Command LILIANA D’AMBROSIO Minister for Energy, Environment and Climate Change Justice Legislation Amendment (Access to Justice) Act 2018 PROCLAMATION OF COMMENCEMENT I, Linda Dessau, Governor of Victoria, with the advice of the Executive Council and under section 2(2) of the Justice Legislation Amendment (Access to Justice) Act 2018, fix 1 November 2018 as the day on which Division 4 of Part 6 and section 41 of that Act come into operation. Given under my hand and the seal of Victoria on 30 October 2018 (L.S.) LINDA DESSAU The Honourable Linda Dessau AC Governor By Her Excellency’s Command MARTIN PAKULA Attorney-General
 
Trust me, we are doing everything we can to speed the process up.
Thanks for the explanation and I can appreciate the time/effort it takes. Not sure why you guys are spreading yourselves so thin across America, Canada, Europe and Australia though!? Surely it's better to sell into your home market, make sure everything goes well with the product(s) and then then once your homegrown customers are happy (and supply has returned) then move into the other markets.. I'm sure there's a reason but that makes more sense to me rather than spreading yourselves so thin that the bulk of your customers can't get their hands on your products, get frustrated and move on. Plenty of other industries do staggered releases ..or is it as simple as the margins being better in other countries? I would have thought it would be worse (esp in America) but I could very easily be wrong about that..

You don't have to justify your business decisions, I'm just curious as to the motivations..
 
Back
Top