KegLand Questions and Answers

[MontPel]

How many grams of hops do you think you can fit in the sight glass? I suppose worst case you can do multiple batches.

You could either batch it, or could add a spool section to increase the hop drop volume.

 

[VicBadgery]

Interesting approach. (And with addition of a sight glass, may be possible to use tilt bluetooth hydrometer.)

@KegLand-com-au - in the attempt to chase an efficient and quality method of oxygen free dry hopping, would you be able to make a new 4" pressure lid for the kegmenter? I envisage it to be as follows:

View attachment 119753

The larger port would ideally be a 2" TC (a 1.5" TC may also work if dimensions are limited). A larger port here is desired to minimise hops getting stuck. The two smaller ports would be the male threaded ports for the gas and liquid disconnect posts (as are currently on your kegmenter 4" pressure lid). A PRV port would also need to be added between the two smaller threaded ports for safety.

Attached to the 2" port would then be a 2" TC butterfly valve (here), a 2" sight glass (here), then a 2" TC cap with a gas post and PRV for venting and safety (here).

The butterfly valve would be closed for most or all of fermentation. When ready to dry hop the sight glass would be added to the valve, filled with hops, then capped on top. The cap would be connected to a gas line and pressurised/vented several times to purge O2. Then the butterfly valve can be opened and hops drop in.

I have seen a similar set up on much more expensive fermenters (conicals and the like) and have wondered for some time how this arrangement could work on a kegmenter. I believe this is the best way but it all relies on the 4" TC adaptor lid to 2" TC port with posts.

Thoughts?

 

[Mick Chopps]

Any ETA on stainless and/or flow control Nukataps back in stock @KegLand-com-au ?

still listed for Dec 24th on the website.

 

[MontPel]

Interesting approach. (And with addition of a sight glass, may be possible to use tilt bluetooth hydrometer.)

That may be possible too, although I have heard you can now get boosters/repeaters that work with SS fermenters. The other issue depends on your setup. My kegmenter fits in a small fridge and would only be enough height to fit a valve. When ready for dry hopping I would take the fermenter out of the fridge, attach the sight glass, hops and cap, then purge/drop. Once dropped I would need to close the valve, remove the sight glass and return the fermenter to the fridge. So the sight glass is only on temporarily. This wouldn’t be a problem if you had a larger fridge or some other temperature control setup that doesn’t have a height restriction.

 

[fdsaasdf]

@KegLand-com-au if you were to manufacture the 4" TC lid described by @MontPel above then you'd also have customers of stainless fermenters like Spike conicals interested...

 

[Nickedoff]

@KegLand-com-au this might be covered in another thread, but can you add your thermowell to the fermzilla lid and still ferment under pressure?

 

[Ferment8]

@KegLand-com-au this might be covered in another thread, but can you add your thermowell to the fermzilla lid and still ferment under pressure?

Sure can

 

[Nickedoff]

Sure can

Awesome, thanks mate

 

[DazGore]

@KegLand-com-au if you were to manufacture the 4" TC lid described by @MontPel above then you'd also have customers of stainless fermenters like Spike conicals interested...

And one to suit SSBrewtech would also be good.

 

[Meddo]

You can already do airlocks with off-the-shelf parts for most conicals @fdsaasdf/@DazGore, see my build thread from a few years back (Google "Dry hop airlock for pressurised FV"). Stainless CCVs have a separate racking port in the body of the vessel so the entire top port can be used for the airlock, albeit 4" parts are bulky.

The same 4" airlock arrangement from my build could be applied to a kegmenter if you drill a hole in the top of the vessel to install a separate ball-lock bulkhead for attaching the floating dip-tube to, rather than using the one in the 4" TC lid.

Edit: BTW I suspect @MontPel's mocked-up layout above might struggle for clearance on the disconnects once the 2" TC butterfly valve and clamp are installed. For that design I'd suggest the ball-lock posts be installed on tubes welded through the TC cap with bends to clear the other hardware. Something like below (excuse dodgy paint skills).

Edit 2: Even better the below mockup if the elbow tube has a 19/32" male thread for screwing the ball-lock post onto, so it could also be adapted to 5/8" (5/8 Male x 19/32 Female (K-Lok to Corny Keg Adaptor)) for those of us with an abiding dislike of ball-lock fittings.

Edit 3: @MontPel, I can say from experience that 1.5" is definitely not big enough for the airlock if using a butterfly valve, the hops get bound up and won't drop past the butterfly. Maybe a full bore valve like a ball valve would avoid this problem but I haven't tested that.

Edit 4: Just remembered that you would already be familiar with the vessel in that build thread @fdsaasdf...

 

[AlexB]

@KegLand-com-au or anyone else that could help, just wondering the dimensions, mainly height of the all rounder 60L to see if it will fit my fridge, no info on the site. Also wondering if the base is any different between 30L and 60L. I already have a couple of 30L and could save a few bucks just getting a replacement 60L bubble as Ive already got all the other stuff

 

[RRising]

@KegLand-com-au or anyone else that could help, just wondering the dimensions, mainly height of the all rounder 60L to see if it will fit my fridge, no info on the site. Also wondering if the base is any different between 30L and 60L. I already have a couple of 30L and could save a few bucks just getting a replacement 60L bubble as Ive already got all the other stuff

They list the dimensions on the product page but it is very easy to miss, it's 352mm wide and either 864mm to the top of the ball locks or 926mm to the top of the airlock it comes with.

For some reason they have the dimensions for 2 units and both are different.

 

[AlexB]

Thanks RRising!, I checked a bunch of times and couldnt find it and now im looking again and still cant find it, they hid it well. Guess Ill have to go with the larger height to make a decision.

 

[MontPel]

You can already do airlocks with off-the-shelf parts for most conicals @fdsaasdf/@DazGore, see my build thread from a few years back (Google "Dry hop airlock for pressurised FV"). Stainless CCVs have a separate racking port in the body of the vessel so the entire top port can be used for the airlock, albeit 4" parts are bulky.

The same 4" airlock arrangement from my build could be applied to a kegmenter if you drill a hole in the top of the vessel to install a separate ball-lock bulkhead for attaching the floating dip-tube to, rather than using the one in the 4" TC lid.

Edit: BTW I suspect @MontPel's mocked-up layout above might struggle for clearance on the disconnects once the 2" TC butterfly valve and clamp are installed. For that design I'd suggest the ball-lock posts be installed on tubes welded through the TC cap with bends to clear the other hardware. Something like below (excuse dodgy paint skills).

Edit 2: Even better the below mockup if the elbow tube has a 19/32" male thread for screwing the ball-lock post onto, so it could also be adapted to 5/8" (5/8 Male x 19/32 Female (K-Lok to Corny Keg Adaptor)) for those of us with an abiding dislike of ball-lock fittings.

Edit 3: @MontPel, I can say from experience that 1.5" is definitely not big enough for the airlock if using a butterfly valve, the hops get bound up and won't drop past the butterfly. Maybe a full bore valve like a ball valve would avoid this problem but I haven't tested that.

Edit 4: Just remembered that you would already be familiar with the vessel in that build thread @fdsaasdf...

View attachment 119760

I just read through your other thread and it seems you’ve encountered the same issues I was mulling over, including the use of a tee before the valve for liquid out (and PRV when/if the valve is closed).
I’d prefer not to drill into the kegmenter itself. There should also be a PRV in any isolated (or potentially isolated) section of a pressurised system.
Agree that 2” butterfly valve is minimum to allow proper hop drop without blockage. I have seen other forums where people suggest this is minimum size too. If a 1.5” port was the largest size in the 4” lid, then I’d go 1.5” to 2” concentric reducer before a 2” valve. Should be similar in cross sectional area without the butterfly valve.
I’ve also thought about full bore ball valves instead of butterfly valves for increased area. It seems people don’t recommend it in other forums but I don’t have any personal experience so can’t comment on it.

 

[enoch]

For some reason they have the dimensions for 2 units and both are different.

One unit but two orientations possible for the base.

 

[VicBadgery]

Yes, there may be a set of users who would be more inclined to go with an approach that doesn't involve them doing the fabrication/drilling work, and who would prefer kegland to do the work & testing.

I just read through your other thread and it seems you’ve encountered the same issues I was mulling over, including the use of a tee before the valve for liquid out (and PRV when/if the valve is closed).
I’d prefer not to drill into the kegmenter itself. There should also be a PRV in any isolated (or potentially isolated) section of a pressurised system.

 

[RRising]

One unit but two orientations possible for the base.

Huh... i didn't even realise that, it makes sense now.

 

[FarsideOfCrazy]

I've seen that the series X kegerator is in stock but the series X plus is supposed to be in stock today but is showing that it is out of stock.

Does this mean that is already sold out? If so did anyone manage to get one?

 

[crowmanz]

I've seen that the series X kegerator is in stock but the series X plus is supposed to be in stock today but is showing that it is out of stock.

Does this mean that is already sold out? If so did anyone manage to get one?

Got the email that they were in stock yesterday arvo, I didn't check or buy one, but reckon they are sold out now.

 

[RRising]

@KegLand-com-au or anyone else.

Will Nukataps screw into Intertap shanks or do i need to buy new shanks?

 

[ozdevil]

i'm a bit amused by this advertisement

was looking tonight for a friend who got all excited 8/1/2021 to find that above

That is not acceptable kegland, i get you guys have been on a break and well deserved.

but 8/01/2021 saying back in stock on 14th of dec 2020

its not just luaghable but dam right false advertising fromn your own website Super Fast duoTAP New Series X Draught Pack Kegerator- Double Tap - KegLand @KegLand-com-au

 

[fdsaasdf]

was looking tonight for a friend who got all excited 8/1/2021 to find that above

That is not acceptable kegland, i get you guys have been on a break and well deserved.

but 8/01/2021 saying back in stock on 14th of dec 2020

its not just luaghable but dam right false advertising fromn your own website Super Fast duoTAP New Series X Draught Pack Kegerator- Double Tap - KegLand @KegLand-com-au

The dates due back and stock availability on the website and notifications by email to subscribers have been all over the place since kegland launched their website, well documented in this thread which you've been a contributor to. It's frustrating for consumers but it's hardly false advertising.

 

[ozdevil]

The dates due back and stock availability on the website and notifications by email to subscribers have been all over the place since kegland launched their website, well documented in this thread which you've been a contributor to. It's frustrating for consumers but it's hardly false advertising.

agree maybe not false advertising

i was probably a bit harsh in what i was saying as had 1 to many last night which not an excuse

just trying to point out the flaw and i could have went about it in a better way

 

[Bdogg]

I bought three of the flow control disconnects and I can get them to be anything but foam machines.

I have the duotight FFL ends on them, and am pouring from Nukataps, but have tried a picnic tap and a pluto gun.

I've tried long and short lines, high and low carb, different temperatures, different beer/cider styles and it's all the same - 100% foam.

If I have 4m of line from a basic disconnect to the Nukatap it's a perfect pour, but as soon as I put on a the flow control disconnect it's pure foam.

Am I doing something wrong? The FC disconnects came with a set of O rings, I presumed they were spares but maybe I'm meant to install them?

Any other ideas? They were expensive but I can't seem to get any use from them.

 

[MontPel]

I bought three of the flow control disconnects and I can get them to be anything but foam machines.

I have the duotight FFL ends on them, and am pouring from Nukataps, but have tried a picnic tap and a pluto gun.

I've tried long and short lines, high and low carb, different temperatures, different beer/cider styles and it's all the same - 100% foam.

If I have 4m of line from a basic disconnect to the Nukatap it's a perfect pour, but as soon as I put on a the flow control disconnect it's pure foam.

Am I doing something wrong? The FC disconnects came with a set of O rings, I presumed they were spares but maybe I'm meant to install them?

Any other ideas? They were expensive but I can't seem to get any use from them.

Might be worth disassembling the disconnect and giving it a clean. There could be something stuck inside causing the turbulence. I believe there is a video on their website that shows how to disassemble. It’s super simple

 

[kadmium]

Might be worth disassembling the disconnect and giving it a clean. There could be something stuck inside causing the turbulence. I believe there is a video on their website that shows how to disassemble. It’s super simple

Should probably clean stainless steel items etc first time anyway. I noticed a lot of the ball valves look like they have just been removed from a cutting oil bath. I've also found a heap of swathe inside the SS plate for the magnetic pump, so it's a good idea in my opinion to give it all a really good clean before use.

 

[Bdogg]

Might be worth disassembling the disconnect and giving it a clean. There could be something stuck inside causing the turbulence. I believe there is a video on their website that shows how to disassemble. It’s super simple

I'll give it a try, thanks for the advice.

 

[DTee]

@KegLand-com-au - in the attempt to chase an efficient and quality method of oxygen free dry hopping, would you be able to make a new 4" pressure lid for the kegmenter? I envisage it to be as follows:

View attachment 119753
Thoughts?

Are you in Perth? Luke from MWS would fabricate something like the above for you. Pictured below is a kegmenter they fitted out for purge-able dry hopping under pressure. (I have no relation to MWS - just heard good things about his work).

 

[KegLand-com-au]

Will there be a Black Phantom stout spout?
I like the idea of a black tap for a black beer.

Yes this is a product that we have now highlighted to get manufactured. The new black stout spout will have the part number KL21135. My guess is that these will be in stock in about May 2021.

I should also say that I have been doing a lot of testing on the various disks for the stout spouts and I highly recommend getting this set of disks:
https://www.kegland.com.au/nukatap-creamer-aerator-disc-kit-7-discs.html

These stout/nitro disks are good to test out and see which one works best for you. If you are able to lift your dispense pressures a bit higher I get really great results with the 5 hole 0.3mm disk for stout and then with espresso martini cocktail in kegs where I use a smaller glass and want a slower pour I use the 3 x 0.3mm hole disk.

Historically it was too difficult for us to make the 0.3mm holes on the laser cutter but now with the new upgrades to the laser cutter we have been able to make the 0.3mm diameter holes that give a really smooth creamer effect.

 

[KegLand-com-au]

Hi @KegLand-com-au. I've got an idea for the series X kegerator.

Would it be possible to make a half shelf that could be removed when not needed to be able to store drinks on one side of the fridge if there were only one or two kegs in use? All that would be needed is a vertical support and two or three shelves that could attach to this and then slot into the existing shelf supports on one side of the fridge.

I rarely have more than two kegs on tap at once but always have other cans or bottles in the basket in my keezer.

I'm asking this because my keezer is starting to die and an update is in my near future.

Cheers

Yes the half shelf is a really good idea. We have been talking about this in the office too and trying to work out what this should look like. We have been thinking about something that can double as a can dispenser on top then underneath it can be used to store wine bottles or beer bottles too. What specifically have you been after? Other than can's, beer bottles, wine bottles do you have any particular thing that you are wanting to store in the fridge? Alternatively just making a wire storage shelf that is modular and enable you to purchase a can dispenser and then stack on a 30cm high shelf for wine bottles or a 20cm high shelf for beer bottles for instance.