Th
That only applies to a moving liquid. When static, the pressure behind the tap will be the same as in the keg.
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KegLand Questions and Answers
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Kezzbot
Active Member
Ok good to know, so it will make no difference if you go either 4 mm or 5 mm tube?
Yes it will make a difference. 4mm provides significantly more resistance than 5mm. You will need a longer 5mm line OR reduce flow by turning down the flow control disconnect. Another trick is to stretch the tube to reduce ID. See explanation and photos. https://www.kegland.com.au/bronco-picnic-party-tap.html
It will make a difference if you use 4mm or 5mm, but you can adjust for that difference with the disconnect to get the right pour
The Flow Control Ball Lock disconnect can be used with no beer line at all if you wanted to and you can put the tap directly on the disconnect. This works acceptably well.
If you do have beer line I would just not use too much as you can have the issue of not being able to flow fast enough. So for a standard direct draw kegerator setup 1-2 meters of 5mm ID or 80cm-1m of 4mm ID would be fine.
Just on this, any update on the new version of the FC ball lock disconnect?
I just plumbed in mains water to my kegerator with a soda water reactor lid. I have a few meters of 4mm ID EvaBarrier line siting outside the kegerator that is filled with water and I want to cover it as it gets exposed to sunlight. Any suggestions?
I'd be using blue water line for this. You could just wrap it with any old cheap foam, or flexible conduit, or heatshrink...
Mick Chopps
Active Member
Just connected up my new lines last night after setting up my new font. Running about ~1m lengths of the 4mm ID and it's pouring perfectly.
Forgot to order more duotights though.... gonna have mine them from elsewhere in the system to set up all remaining kegs!
I am really sorry about this we have some more urgent product development that has overtaken the FC Ball Lock Disconnect. It's very close to getting completed but I am very sorry this one has really taken way longer than we had expected. I don't have the final ETA but it's certainly something we will get stuck into very soon.
Yes I have done the same thing and have never looked back. For anyone with a soda stream or been filling kegs manually to make sodawater I would highly recommend just plumbing up the soda reactor.
I have my garden watering that uses EVABarrier and it's been outside in the sun with mains water pressure and has not failed yet and it's been 2 years. Mind you we do not use UV stabilisers so it will probably fail eventually. I would agree that Bunnings flexible conduit is probably the cheapest and easiest solution.
The Troll on the Moon
Member
Will there be a Black Phantom stout spout?
I like the idea of a black tap for a black beer.
I like the idea of a black tap for a black beer.
DJR
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Yes this is a good idea. What about we make a PCO1881 cap that can screw onto one of the PCO 1881 threads then on the other side we put the female thread for the PRV like this:
Is something like this more or less what you are after?
Similar thing on this topic... could you make a version of the carb cap that has a male PCO 1881 thread - so you could put it into the other side on the PCO1881 x PCO1881 ball valve as a standard gas disconnect after you finish dry hopping, e.g. for then transferring. That way you'd never have to unscrew the ball valve to put a spunding valve back on or a gas disconnect for pressurised transfers - just swap the top.
A PCO1881 x PCO1881 Male-to-Male adaptor would also work... then you just screw a carb cap on top.
i haven't got a fermzilla (yet) but looking at the dry hop thing it makes a lot of sense, just seems like you have to unscrew the ball valve to re-attach a spunding valve after dry hopping or to transfer things, or am i missing something?
FarsideOfCrazy
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Hi @KegLand-com-au. I've got an idea for the series X kegerator.
Would it be possible to make a half shelf that could be removed when not needed to be able to store drinks on one side of the fridge if there were only one or two kegs in use? All that would be needed is a vertical support and two or three shelves that could attach to this and then slot into the existing shelf supports on one side of the fridge.
I rarely have more than two kegs on tap at once but always have other cans or bottles in the basket in my keezer.
I'm asking this because my keezer is starting to die and an update is in my near future.
Cheers
Would it be possible to make a half shelf that could be removed when not needed to be able to store drinks on one side of the fridge if there were only one or two kegs in use? All that would be needed is a vertical support and two or three shelves that could attach to this and then slot into the existing shelf supports on one side of the fridge.
I rarely have more than two kegs on tap at once but always have other cans or bottles in the basket in my keezer.
I'm asking this because my keezer is starting to die and an update is in my near future.
Cheers
Engibeer
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https://www.kegland.com.au/kl16452.html
https://www.kegland.com.au/stainless-reducing-bush-1-2inch-x-1-4inch-908.html
The name in the link above is wrong, that actually links to 1/2 to 3/4in which is what you would need.
These two parts should work for your suggested application.
Nullnvoid
Well-Known Member
I have a fill-o-meter, when I fill 1-2 litres into a bucket it's spot on. When I fill my HLT with 60l either through the ball valve or right over the top, it's 20l out.
I know the markings on my HLT are correct as I weighed each litre of water and also my brews always come out spot on.
Any ideas Kegland?
I know the markings on my HLT are correct as I weighed each litre of water and also my brews always come out spot on.
Any ideas Kegland?
Nullnvoid
Well-Known Member
Yes it is. I found a manual but I'm not sure it makes sense to me. I'll have to have a play I think
Is that a typo? Is it really 20l out or just 2l?
I gave it a quick read and you are right, its not very clear, it goes on about the "K-factor" or 9.4L/ min and pulses, which is used for fuel flow meters but its the same principal for water.
At what point in the fill start go astray? You'd have to tweak the k factor down a little and experiment from there.
RobB
Well-Known Member
For the best pour, is there a minimum length of line recommended between the KL flow control disconnects and the tap? I have seen photos of taps mount directly on the disconnect on mini keg systems, but I was wondering if this was just driven by the need to keep things compact. The KL video for the disconnects suggests that the benefits come from moving the flow restriction back from the tap, so directly mounting a tap seems counterintuitive to me.
I'm going to set up a mini keg system and I'm tossing up between directly mounting the tap or having a length of line and a Pluto gun. Looks don't concern me, I just want the best pour.
I'm going to set up a mini keg system and I'm tossing up between directly mounting the tap or having a length of line and a Pluto gun. Looks don't concern me, I just want the best pour.
Nullnvoid
Well-Known Member
Nullnvoid
Well-Known Member
I do
i don't know exactly but when it first appears on my sight glass at 16l, it was 19l on the flow meter.
Engibeer
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May be a rough workaround and not an ideal solution, but maybe a quick and easy solution if the error is consistent would be to fill to the correct mark in your kettle, note what it says on the flow meter, and then just set the flow meter to this next time.
Obviously not ideal, but if all you're using it for is to fill your kettle could be a quick solution.
@KegLand-com-au - any update on the digital gauge for inline regulator and blowties?
Thanks
Thanks
Nullnvoid
Well-Known Member
Ohh I like this idea for a short term solution!
kadmium
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For those asking questions. I note they are closed till 4th Jan on their website. I hope they are taking a well deserved break over new years. Probably wouldn't expect an answer before then. And happy new years to all those on AHB
@KegLand-com-au - in the attempt to chase an efficient and quality method of oxygen free dry hopping, would you be able to make a new 4" pressure lid for the kegmenter? I envisage it to be as follows:
The larger port would ideally be a 2" TC (a 1.5" TC may also work if dimensions are limited). A larger port here is desired to minimise hops getting stuck. The two smaller ports would be the male threaded ports for the gas and liquid disconnect posts (as are currently on your kegmenter 4" pressure lid). A PRV port would also need to be added between the two smaller threaded ports for safety.
Attached to the 2" port would then be a 2" TC butterfly valve (here), a 2" sight glass (here), then a 2" TC cap with a gas post and PRV for venting and safety (here).
The butterfly valve would be closed for most or all of fermentation. When ready to dry hop the sight glass would be added to the valve, filled with hops, then capped on top. The cap would be connected to a gas line and pressurised/vented several times to purge O2. Then the butterfly valve can be opened and hops drop in.
I have seen a similar set up on much more expensive fermenters (conicals and the like) and have wondered for some time how this arrangement could work on a kegmenter. I believe this is the best way but it all relies on the 4" TC adaptor lid to 2" TC port with posts.
Thoughts?
The larger port would ideally be a 2" TC (a 1.5" TC may also work if dimensions are limited). A larger port here is desired to minimise hops getting stuck. The two smaller ports would be the male threaded ports for the gas and liquid disconnect posts (as are currently on your kegmenter 4" pressure lid). A PRV port would also need to be added between the two smaller threaded ports for safety.
Attached to the 2" port would then be a 2" TC butterfly valve (here), a 2" sight glass (here), then a 2" TC cap with a gas post and PRV for venting and safety (here).
The butterfly valve would be closed for most or all of fermentation. When ready to dry hop the sight glass would be added to the valve, filled with hops, then capped on top. The cap would be connected to a gas line and pressurised/vented several times to purge O2. Then the butterfly valve can be opened and hops drop in.
I have seen a similar set up on much more expensive fermenters (conicals and the like) and have wondered for some time how this arrangement could work on a kegmenter. I believe this is the best way but it all relies on the 4" TC adaptor lid to 2" TC port with posts.
Thoughts?
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