KegLand Questions and Answers

[KegLand-com-au]

Interested in this, what basic shape is the tap? Still an Intertap / Perlick style body?

Just interested to see if you have been happy with this design in general. We have a new flow control model that is due to be released and if it's small adjustments we can still include changes into the new design but we would have to know right away as we are just about to push the button on the new flow control model. Just interested to hear if you have any issues or can find any areas of improvement on the previous models.

 

[KegLand-com-au]

Interested in this, what basic shape is the tap? Still an Intertap / Perlick style body?

The external shape is quiet similar but internally they work completely differently and we have started to use a couple different composites inside the new design that enable us to make the flow control parts work better.

 

[KegLand-com-au]

@KegLand-com-au when will you have the seriex x keggerator in stock again?

The Series X are back in stock now but they are close to being sold out. Once this last container sells out we will not have another container until Jan 2020. We do have more Series 4 units arriving but honestly I don't know why you would bother with the Series 4 anymore. The price difference is quite similar and the Series X fits an extra keg, is more electrically efficient and also has better cooling performance especially in hot climates. About 70% of our sales are in Series X now and I would not be surprised if we discontinue all the Series 4 at some stage in the future.

 

[KegLand-com-au]

That sounds good, but unfortunately I need something now.
My lines are balanced but I serve off of an ssbrewtech Brite tank and the flow is just way too fast, just need to slow it down. This is even with using over 3m of your 4mm beer line at 12psi

That strange. With 3m of 4mm ID the flow rate should be less than 200ml/10sec. Are you sure you are using the 4mm ID?

 

[KegLand-com-au]

Hi Kegland

Any idea of when new stocks of the flow control beer disconnect KL09041 will be available. I note that other suppliers have stock

Cheers

Yes sorry about this. We do have these seconds ones that work fine so these are a good deal at the moment given the much cheaper price:
https://www.kegland.com.au/flow-control-ball-lock-disconnect-flow-restrictor-seconds.html

The new models are getting some upgrades to the shape which is taking a bit of extra time so the next stock will not arrive until end of Jan unfortunately. Sorry about this wait.

 

[KegLand-com-au]

what are keglands christmas trading days/hours?

Our customer service and support will be limited from 25th December until 6th Jan and phone calls and emails might not get answered during this period. The guys in the warehouse will still be picking and dispatching orders as per usual except for Christmas day, Boxing Day and New Years day. So you can still pickup orders and get orders shipped out as per usual.

Also just so you guys know we now have free Reverse Osmosis water. So if you use our pickup lockers you can bring your own plastic cube/bucket and fill up some buckets of reverse osmosis water if you like. When you go into the secured area where the lockers are you will see a foot pedal the dispenses the water for you. Some of our staff seem to think it improves the beer as we can brew with a more controlled water chemistry so we thought we may as well offer to our customers for free.

 

[KegLand-com-au]

What's the pressure rating of the pump?

Can the nozzle be replaced with a CIP ball? Will the pump provide enough pressure?

Just wondering if it works effectively enough to remove the krausen ring with no direct spray at this location.

Thanks

You can use with the CIP ball but it simply doesn't work as well. I would not recommend the ball and you really would be wasting your money. The jet that comes out of this moves much more liquid than the ball and definitely will remove the krausen ring. Just use about 1 spoon of this powdered brewing wash and let it run for 5min.

 

[KegLand-com-au]

How about dump the cardboard box and run with just a bucket?

The main issue with that is if we do not pack in a box we get charged a manual handling fee by the courier company. The manual handling fees are about $8. So although the box is ok for pickup we would then loose a lot of money for the ones that get shipped out to customers.

 

[KegLand-com-au]

Hi Kegland,
Do you still do Gift Vouchers/Certificates? The link on the website is broken.
Cheers

Sorry about this. We have a new website that is going to be released early next year. As a result the old gift card scheme will not work on the new website. As a result we took down the gift card ad-don to our website a couple months ago.

So for this festive season for gift cards we can direct you to a link on the website where you can print out this image and maybe give to your loved one with some cash in an envelope.
Here is a link to our standard gift card template:
http://www.kegland.com.au/media/mt/giftcard/template/background1.jpg

Here is a link to our Christmas theme gift card template:
http://www.kegland.com.au/media/mt/giftcard/template/background6.jpg

Sorry about this. It's not a really nice solution but it's only temporary and gift cards will be working again in a couple months.

 

[KegLand-com-au]

Hi @KegLand-com-au

What sort of cleaning chemicals can the bucket blaster handle? Eg. Can it be used with the caustic soda cleaner or will this damage the pump?

We have not done enough testing with caustic yet. Look at the specification sheets for the parts it should work fine but really caustic is ultimately not necessary and it's fairly dangerous. I really think the powdered brewing wash is a better product for the job and it's much safer.

 

[dkril]

Yes sorry about this. We do have these seconds ones that work fine so these are a good deal at the moment given the much cheaper price:
https://www.kegland.com.au/flow-control-ball-lock-disconnect-flow-restrictor-seconds.html

The new models are getting some upgrades to the shape which is taking a bit of extra time so the next stock will not arrive until end of Jan unfortunately. Sorry about this wait.

A suggestion for your next gen FC disconnects. Put a mark of some sort on the adjuster (on the top or on the side) so it's easier to tell how far it's been turned when adjusting it.

 

[Meddo]

Just interested to see if you have been happy with this design in general. We have a new flow control model that is due to be released and if it's small adjustments we can still include changes into the new design but we would have to know right away as we are just about to push the button on the new flow control model. Just interested to hear if you have any issues or can find any areas of improvement on the previous models.

I had some Intertap FCs, wasn't particularly happy with them but they were doing it tough in a fairly warm carport so hard to tell how much of the foaming issues I had were due to hot taps versus flow control mechanism. I've also got non-FC Intertaps - the Intertap design in general I think is pretty good, but I wonder if a longer and narrower spout might help a bit with foam suppression? Also the throw could be a bit smoother but no big deal given the price. Otherwise it would be nice if the spout finish matched the finish of the taps - this is the one area where Perlicks look a bit more polished with the integrated spout (to my eye).

What would be really nice for me is a tap that included an integrated cooling loop in the tap body. Obviously this would need a lot more metal and increase cost (if even possible to manufacture), and no idea if there would be a broader market for such a thing.

 

[3StringCigar]

I have just received my TILT Hydrometer from Kegland and although the test in distilled water all worked fine, putting it in my Kegland 58lt Kegmenter it just won't work. I was hoping to use this for pressure fermenting. Has anyone else had any problems getting it to send a signal from inside the Kegland kegmenter? It is advertised as: Universal: Works in most standard carboys, corny kegs, refrigerators, stainless steel fermenters, even under pressure! Am I doing something wrong?
Removing the lid of the kegmenter I get the signal, putting the lid back on to ferment, nothing.

 

[Cstew]

I have just received my TILT Hydrometer from Kegland and although the test in distilled water all worked fine, putting it in my Kegland 58lt Kegmenter it just won't work. I was hoping to use this for pressure fermenting. Has anyone else had any problems getting it to send a signal from inside the Kegland kegmenter? It is advertised as: Universal: Works in most standard carboys, corny kegs, refrigerators, stainless steel fermenters, even under pressure! Am I doing something wrong?
Removing the lid of the kegmenter I get the signal, putting the lid back on to ferment, nothing.

I'd be surprised if you could get a signal outside of a completely sealed keg. For iSpindel (which is WiFi not Bluetooth like the tilt) some users have had success by electrically isolating the lid (as would be the case with a Corney) looking at the kegmenters might be a bit more difficult to isolate the lid but shouldn't be impossible.

 

[DazGore]

That strange. With 3m of 4mm ID the flow rate should be less than 200ml/10sec. Are you sure you are using the 4mm ID?

Yes, definitely (it even says so on the tube lol). I originally had 5mm tubing but switched to 4mm because of the speed, and it's still too fast, even with 3.5m of it. It's got me stumped as all the beer line balance calculators recommend lengths much shorter than that.
I serve from Brite tank going from 1/2" TC - 1/4" mfl fitting with a duotight to the 4mm/8mm beer line so it may have something to do with that somehow????

 

[fdsaasdf]

Yes, definitely (it even says so on the tube lol). I originally had 5mm tubing but switched to 4mm because of the speed, and it's still too fast, even with 3.5m of it. It's got me stumped as all the beer line balance calculators recommend lengths much shorter than that.
I serve from Brite tank going from 1/2" TC - 1/4" mfl fitting with a duotight to the 4mm/8mm beer line so it may have something to do with that somehow????

If your serving pressure is within usual beer ranges then the line length is not the problem here.

Unless the line diameter were mis-marked, I'd be looking at the variables of temperature or the agitation introduced by your 1/2"TC and reducer. If you're confident there are no temperature changes across the line (e.g. if the tap or line are warmer) then maybe try switching out the 1/2"TC with a 1/4" outlet.

 

[TheBeerBaron]

I have just received my TILT Hydrometer from Kegland and although the test in distilled water all worked fine, putting it in my Kegland 58lt Kegmenter it just won't work. I was hoping to use this for pressure fermenting. Has anyone else had any problems getting it to send a signal from inside the Kegland kegmenter? It is advertised as: Universal: Works in most standard carboys, corny kegs, refrigerators, stainless steel fermenters, even under pressure! Am I doing something wrong?
Removing the lid of the kegmenter I get the signal, putting the lid back on to ferment, nothing.

Tilt released a 'repeater' for this issue I think..

https://tilthydrometer.com/products/tilt-repeater

 

[JDW81]

I had some Intertap FCs, wasn't particularly happy with them but they were doing it tough in a fairly warm carport so hard to tell how much of the foaming issues I had were due to hot taps versus flow control mechanism.
.

I've got perlick FC taps which live in the hot garage as well.

My solution is a cup of crushed ice in the freezer and if I haven't poured for a while and the taps are hot is to immerse the tap in the ice to let if cool down for a few seconds. Makes a big difference on the first pour. Once the taps are cold you can pour as usual, but meant I wasn't pouring foam while the taps cooled down.

JD

 

[Beats_MC]

Hi,

I have some of the gen 1 flow control disconnects. They pour very, very slowly even when fully opened.
Using ~1m of 5mm line and a pluto gun.

Is this something that will be improved in the gen 2 model?

 

[razz]

Hi,

I have some of the gen 1 flow control disconnects. They pour very, very slowly even when fully opened.
Using ~1m of 5mm line and a pluto gun.

Is this something that will be improved in the gen 2 model?

I run a pair of these beats, no problems at all and I have 1 mtr lines also. Maybe yours are faulty? Have you pulled them part?

 

[Beats_MC]

I run a pair of these beats, no problems at all and I have 1 mtr lines also. Maybe yours are faulty? Have you pulled them part?

No I have not. Stupid question - how do they come apart? I can see the MFL can be removed by the hex nut. But how does the rest come apart?

 

[razz]

https://www.kegland.com.au/flow-control-ball-lock-disconnect-flow-restrictor.html
Failing that, you may need to give the shop a call or post your question on the Kegland FB page.

 

[Engibeer]

I've got perlick FC taps which live in the hot garage as well.

My solution is a cup of crushed ice in the freezer and if I haven't poured for a while and the taps are hot is to immerse the tap in the ice to let if cool down for a few seconds. Makes a big difference on the first pour. Once the taps are cold you can pour as usual, but meant I wasn't pouring foam while the taps cooled down.

JD

Awesome idea, might adopt this method.

 

[DazGore]

If your serving pressure is within usual beer ranges then the line length is not the problem here.

Unless the line diameter were mis-marked, I'd be looking at the variables of temperature or the agitation introduced by your 1/2"TC and reducer. If you're confident there are no temperature changes across the line (e.g. if the tap or line are warmer) then maybe try switching out the 1/2"TC with a 1/4" outlet.

I'm sorry, this is a bit off topic, but, I lengthened my beer line to 4.5m of 4mm beer line, and it is pouring perfectly. I am dumbfounded as its way more than is the norm. I run my tubing outside of a fridge, but it is all glycol chilled with no warm spots etc..
My brite tanks read 12.5 psi, my inline regulator is at 1 bar (14.8?), the wetting/cracking pressure of my carbonation stone is 2-2.5 psi, so all good there. Beer temp is 3 degrees.
So for me, in my system, I needed longer beer line. Weird, but as I said in earlier posts, it could be due to my setup, going from a 1.5" TC fitting to 1/4" mfl ... Anyway, very happy. And the FC taps will let me alter any variations that come my way.

Sorry for off topic.

Thank you Kegland for all the great products, at competitive prices. You guys are the best.

 

[Talnoy]

This question was originally posted on a Facebook group for FermZilla users (https://www.facebook.com/groups/580441819141323/), but I post it again on this forum to be directly in touch with KegLand.

When I attach a grey disconnect to one of the SS carbonation caps from the FermZilla pressure kit, it starts to leak gas. In more detail: If I press the disconnect all the way down to the seat of of the carb cap, it remains fairly sealed, but when I let go of the disconnect, it springs back a few millimetres and then I can hear gas hiss. A lubed O-ring makes no difference, but a black disconnect appear to seal better.

If I do the same on the gas post of a corny keg, it doesn't spring back and I got perfect seal.

It seams like it is not only me, citing text on carbonation caps from William's Brewing: "This has a hybrid ball lock post that will accept beer and gas lines. A tradeoff of this design means when you use a grey ball lock gas fitting to charge your bottle, the grey fitting will leak if you leave it on. This is designed to quickly charge with gas and then remove the gas ball lock fitting, it is not designed to have a gas line attached for any length of time" (https://www.williamsbrewing.com/Stainless-Carbonation-Cleaning-Cap-P3609.aspx)

As all spunding valve assemblies I've seen comes with a grey disconnect and the spunding valve is permanently attached to the FermZilla during pressurised fermentation, it should be leak proof, especially during cold crash, when I use the spunding valve gauge to verify that I never risk having under pressure in the FZ.

Are grey disconnects supposed to seal well on your SS carbonation caps?
Have you ever considered mount a true corny gas post on the FZ lid?

 

[Tricky Dicky]

I read on a Facebook Brewzilla forum that the 35L has an enhanced version after the 3.1 apparently the step function timer only starts when the target temperature has been reached is this correct?

 

[pauly]

Are grey disconnects supposed to seal well on your SS carbonation caps?

One of my grey disconnects definitely does not seal well on the SS caps or the plastic ones, but I have other grey ones that work fine and also my SS disconnects work fine for both. Personally I have chalked it up to varying quality on them and I figure since they only cost $2 and $3 I can live with it (although I can see why it would be very annoying if you don't have spares).

I have just had a beer sitting there at 25psi for four days last week (with plastic caps and a cheap grey disconnect) with no drop in pressure. I always saw pressure drops with the SS caps although I am almost certain this was the seal between the CC and the FZ, not the disconnect.

I had a heap of trouble with the SS caps and the FZ, KL have suggested in the thread to use the plastic ones instead. I think they should be sending out replacement plastic caps to anyone who bought the pressure kits with the SS ones, as they just don't seem to work properly.

 

[arkique]

tldr; My StellarSan caps broke and I printed new ones.

I know this is no strictly the right thread but I thought I would add my 2c here as I lost both my StellarSan caps today ( RIP plastic caps) and its also likely the first place someone will come to complain and look for a solution.

Most likely I am also going to get flamed for this so let me start by saying this was a proof of concept and I may change to a more suitable material before I post the stl. If you want to the stl let me know and I will supply what I got. Caveat Emptor as there are no guarantees this will keep on working. For now I will see if they split like the orginals, if they are still fine after a week I will update my post with a link to the file.

Anyways are is a pic. Printed real rough and quick as a proof of concept. They seemed to seal without the paper discs but I migrated them across anyways.

 

[Nullnvoid]

tldr; My StellarSan caps broke and I printed new ones.

I know this is no strictly the right thread but I thought I would add my 2c here as I lost both my StellarSan caps today ( RIP plastic caps) and its also likely the first place someone will come to complain and look for a solution.

Most likely I am also going to get flamed for this so let me start by saying this was a proof of concept and I may change to a more suitable material before I post the stl. If you want to the stl let me know and I will supply what I got. Caveat Emptor as there are no guarantees this will keep on working. For now I will see if they split like the orginals, if they are still fine after a week I will update my post with a link to the file.

Anyways are is a pic. Printed real rough and quick as a proof of concept. They seemed to seal without the paper discs but I migrated them across anyways.

Normal PET bottle caps fit as well.

 

[Warwick]

So with the carbonation cap, are you recommending to run 4mm ID line directly from a mains tap to the quick disconnect (obviously with a inline regulator)? Can you recommend common attachments to achieve this from the tap end?

Bump