Hermit Coil Heat Exchange Build

[Crusty]

When ramping from say 55deg to 66deg & your system ramps at 1deg per minute, does the timer on these only start the countdown once the set temp is reached?
For example, 55deg for 15mins ( 11 mins to get to 66deg ) 66deg for 60mins or would the 11 mins come off the 60min set time which would now be 49mins @66deg.

 

[iralosavic]

The next step counter starts when the target temperature is reached. You can tell because the A only appears in relation to the selected step once the target temp has been hit, which correlates with the timer starting. At least this is what I have observed in my unit.

 

[Crusty]

The next step counter starts when the target temperature is reached. You can tell because the A only appears in relation to the selected step once the target temp has been hit, which correlates with the timer starting. At least this is what I have observed in my unit.

Thanks mate,
Cheers.

 

[pommiebloke]

Just wondering if anyone knows the exact model of kettle required for this build? Had a look around BigW and KMart and couldn't see the ones mentioned here.

Failing that, has anyone used a Birko 5L urn to house the herm-it coil and if so, how was the performance?

 

[Camo1234]

I am using the Birko 5 ltr urn but get pretty slow ramp speeds anywhere from 2 mins 30secs to just over 3 mins per Degree with a 60-70 ltr batch.... Not sure if this is par for that size batch (tripple batch) but I am considering going to smaller vessle to get better ramp speeds.

 

[Smokomark]

A smaller vessel will give you shorter lag times and a lot less overshoot. The only way to speed up the ramp time is to add more heating power.

 

[pommiebloke]

I wonder if this would be any good? I would have thought 2000W would be enough for decent ramp times.


Rank Arena 8.8L Stainless Steel Hot Water Urn 2000W

 

[GalBrew]

I thought the same, 8.8L is quite a big volume though, when the coil is designed for 1.7L. I ended up getting the PVC pipe from bunnings. Easy enough even for a DIY train wreck like myself.

 

[pommiebloke]

Easy enough even for a DIY train wreck like myself.

That's good to hear as I am the same :unsure:. I might go the PVC route then.

What kettle did you use for the element? And what heat source did you use to flatten the pipe?

 

[leahy268]

I thought the same, 8.8L is quite a big volume though, when the coil is designed for 1.7L. I ended up getting the PVC pipe from bunnings. Easy enough even for a DIY train wreck like myself.

Haven't set it up yet and probably won't for a while but I got one of the 8L urns from Aldi for this purpose.
Planned on setting up a coil in the bottom with only around 2-3L of water.
That should work shouldn't it?
Otherwise it will be back to the drawing board..

 

[GalBrew]

I ended up mounting a keg king element through the bottom of the unit rather than using a kettle element. In my pipe setup, I basically attached the screwcap lids to both ends of the main pipe. Coild comes out one end and element the other and mount the unit horizontally. I wasn't keen on the whole pipe flattening part, so this was much easier. That being said I am yet to use the unit as I am awaiting my mash tun from the good folks at BeerBelly.

 

[WarmBeer]

Just wondering if anyone knows the exact model of kettle required for this build? Had a look around BigW and KMart and couldn't see the ones mentioned here.

Failing that, has anyone used a Birko 5L urn to house the herm-it coil and if so, how was the performance?

Found a corded kettle in at the Woolworths in Seaford, although can't find them anywhere nearer to home.

They are similar to the Abode brand shown earlier in this thread. Prices have gone up to $12!

 

[Truman42]

Any kettle from Coles Kmart etc would do. I used a cordless one and plug a computer power cable into it. To flatten my PVC pipe I put a piece of wood inside and flat pieces of steel until I was close to the top surface then used a heat gun on the outside and pressed it down with some more flat steel. But a hair dryer might do the trick too. If you dont use something on the inside to press against your wall wont be flat and the element wont seal.

@Galbrew....if your using yours horizontally ow will you stop the water leaking out where the coil comes out past the PVC lid? And if you seal it all up with silicone you need a vent hole of some sort.

If your going to mount your element from the bottom (Which is easier than trying to flatten the side wall of the PVC) I would use another section of pvc as a stand. You could get another end cap, cut out a hole large enough to cover the element part that protrudes outside and glue this onto the the other end cap back to back. Then screw a short piece of pvc onto this outer end cap and cut a notch in it for the cable to pass through. I would just make sure its stable on brew day by either tying it to your brew stand, make a bracket, or glue a heavy and wider base on the very bottom.

 

[Truman42]

I am using the Birko 5 ltr urn but get pretty slow ramp speeds anywhere from 2 mins 30secs to just over 3 mins per Degree with a 60-70 ltr batch.... Not sure if this is par for that size batch (tripple batch) but I am considering going to smaller vessle to get better ramp speeds.

With the hermit coil in a pvc pipe and a 2000 watt cordless kettle element I am getting a ramp time of 2 degrees a minute. Thats measured at the outflow of the coil.

 

[Camo6]

That's some quick ramp times truman. My hex is around 4 l and get around 1 - 1.3 degrees c per minute. Would have loved to use 100mm pipe but got the 150mm for free. I thought about insulating the hex but figure this would lead to overshoot.

 

[WarmBeer]

Ain't she a beauty...

Has had extra safety engineered in by way of additional black gaffer tape, and will silicone the kettle to a tile base for extra stability.

My wet-test using my STC-1000 saw me getting ramp speeds of about 1.3 - 1.4 degrees C per minute, recirculating 15 litres of water at maximum flow rate. Colour me happy.

Will be using it in anger this weekend, hopefully.

 

[Truman42]

Ain't she a beauty...

Has had extra safety engineered in by way of additional black gaffer tape, and will silicone the kettle to a tile base for extra stability.

My wet-test using my STC-1000 saw me getting ramp speeds of about 1.3 - 1.4 degrees C per minute, recirculating 15 litres of water at maximum flow rate. Colour me happy.

Will be using it in anger this weekend, hopefully.

Looking good mate. But I think that green tape being all crooked and wrinkled will affect your performance.

 

[Truman42]

That's some quick ramp times truman. My hex is around 4 l and get around 1 - 1.3 degrees c per minute. Would have loved to use 100mm pipe but got the 150mm for free. I thought about insulating the hex but figure this would lead to overshoot.

My hex is insulated with that grey foam that builders use which is about 10mm thick and self adhesive.. With my stc1000 it would over shoot 1/2 a degree either side so if set at 65c would get to 65.5 before falling again and drop to 64.5 before starting to climb. Probably not ideal but repeatabaility is the key.

With the Pid it pulses the element so is spot on.

 

[GalBrew]

You make a good point Truman, I didn't want to silicon up the end where the coil comes out so I will mount the unit vertically to my brewstand.

 

[Parks]

Is anyone putting coolant or other in theirs to increase the boiling point and/or keep the liquid "less nasty".

I'm thinking it would be good if I had a preservative of some sort in it so that I didn't have to empty it each time (and leave it mounted to my brew stand)

-- EDIT --

I just remembered the PVC pipe probably won't handle anything higher than 100 degrees so should be very careful.