Hermit Coil Heat Exchange Build

[Batz]

Those look the ducks nuts.

I have never seen anything like that around any of my local woolies...

Myself included and I've been watching for an asparagus cooker for a couple of years. As stated above most are $100ist and even on ebay way too expensive, they will be perfect for a hopback. BTW you do not need to seal the top, just keep your flow below this.

Anyway this has drifted miles away from the original Hermit Coil Heat Exchange Build thread. my apologies.

Batz

 

[QldKev]

Just went and got one, they are now $19.98, but I think still a good buy.

 

[Batz]

Just went and got one, they are now $19.98, but I think still a good buy.

Thanks Kev,
I'll tell ya to put it in the car and head down for a beer or two...but I have Winkle and Rowy here this week and limited beer supplies, it'll be near on zilch by the time they leave the cave. :lol: :lol:

Batz

 

[Batz]

The only issue I see with the urn, is the bigger thermal mass of the water. It just means it takes a bit longer to respond, so when it turns of the heating element you are more likely to get more overshoot. A decent pid would probably work it all out for you. Also the bigger urn just means a bigger size vessel taking up space on the brew stand.

Also I have not checked if the size is suitable, but I think it looks good. The Woolworths up here had asparagus cookers, basically like a tall s/s pot with a basket. They are 210 tall and 135 wide. They were a decent quality build using good stainless and fairly heavy. They were just $15.

291220121525.jpg

If I was building one I would seriously look at these, but I don't really want to redo mine.

They had these at Woolworths Gympie at other day, $19.95. My guess is most Wollies stores must have them ATM, they really do look good for Hermit Coil Heat Exchange or a hopback (hop rocket) build.

 

[Camo1234]

Ok... First run using the HERM-IT controller and stupid me didn't double check the settings!

Doing a 5 step mash with 55,57,63,68,77 but when I looked up the forth step was actually set at 72c instead of 68c! So I had 30 mins at 63 and then20mins at 73!!!

What will this effect be do you reckon? I have never mashed this high or done a step mash except simple mash out.

camo.

 

[Camo6]

Hi all, been following this thread and slowly piecing together bits for the new system. Purchased one of Nev's coils w/ plumbing and very happy with quality of product. Had some 150mm stainless pipe from a friend's father's old still and have utilised it to suit the coil. Using a standard kettle element and a kaixin pump I did a trial run with water and had a ramp of 1.3 degree celsius per minute. Vessel holds 4.5l and is controlled with an STC1000 which seemed to hold temps without more than .3 degree overshoot. Admittedly this was with pump at full flow but should I expect similar results when recirculating wort through a grain bed?
FWIW new build is a 4v Herms using 3 x 50l kegs, single tier, 2x kaixin pumps, electric HLT, false bottom MLT, gas fired kettle, all stainless/silicone. Still yet to build the brewstand but taking my time to get it right and not overlook any design flaws. I'm a biaber and happy with results but just feel like overcomplicating things and spending money frivolously!
Also, I planned on placing the herms vessel on lower level of stand to help with pump priming. Is there any pros or cons to herms vessel location?
Sorry for all the questions, some of which off topic, but I've got a dozen more and appreciate any advice from more experienced brewers. Thanks Cam.

 

[Truman42]

Camo Here is my setup with the herms below the brew stand. It allows the wort to gravity feed down through the herms coil and up to the pump where I then switch on the pump to transfer up via the insulated line to the MLT. I fill up the MLT from the HLT located on the right via the same way. Then switch the ball valve over to recirculate through the MLT. (Which you can see is whats happening in the picture)

if I still have problems priming the pump I disconnect the line from the MLT and drop it down into a bucket until wort starts to flow out of the line then re-connect up to the MLT.

It works great for me.

Heres how my herms is setup.



And heres a close up of the pump setup.

 

[Camo6]

Thanks Truman. During my trial run I had the herms vessel and pump at the same level and the kaixin pump had no troubles priming a one metre head with only gravity assistance. Still trying to figure out best plumbing arrangement. Planning on using one pump for transferring water from hlt to mlt and another for mash recirc and transferring wort to kettle. Might use my little brown pump for kettle whirlpool as it seems to handle 100C flawlessly for extended periods. Anyway should prob post this in dedicated herms thread which I'm reading my through. But good work to Gryphon on producing a quality piece of bling at a good price.

 

[hsb]

I pump up through my HEX to guarantee its full of liquid. Down to pump, up through HEX, back across to Tun. Means I can see there is liquid behind the pump inlet to know i gotta the real good flow. Probably makes no difference ymmv etc

 

[Camo6]

Thanks HSB, that's what I had in mind. HLT to pump1 to HEX to MLT inlet (use this config for fly sparge also). Then MLT outlet to pump2 to HEX to MLT inlet for recirc. Then MLT outlet to pump2 to kettle. Prob should post sketches to clarify but figure with this setup I only need 2 male and 2 female quick disconnects and the rest can be hard plumbed. Also means only one pump used for wort transfer, the other only water. Considering two kaixin landed for $115, the extra pump is probably cheaper than additional taps ( nice find wolfy et al). Tapped my first belgian tonight ( Duvel clone) so apologies if post is a bit confusing.

 

[Tex083]

I ordered my Coil on Friday and it arrived Monday. Very happy with it, I still have to build the HEX.
Can someone explain how the compression fittings work. The 2 collars that sit against the pipe confused me.

Thanks
Dan

 

[Online Brewing Supplies]

I ordered my Coil on Friday and it arrived Monday. Very happy with it, I still have to build the HEX.
Can someone explain how the compression fittings work. The 2 collars that sit against the pipe confused me.

Thanks
Dan

As you tighten the retaining nut the taper olive is compressed onto your coil tube forming a seal.
You have to tighten quite well but not excessive.
Nev

 

[Tex083]

Cheers I take it that this should be done AFTER I put it through the lid of the HEX.

 

[Online Brewing Supplies]

Cheers I take it that this should be done AFTER I put it through the lid of the HEX.

Yes that would be a LOT easier/essential, also when putting them on the tube pull them apart (noting orientation of the rings) and put the pieces on the tube individually,
if you dont it may be hard to slip the fittings on.
Nev

 

[QldKev]

Is anyone running 2 heating elements in a HERM-IT setup? I remember one person a while back mentioned he put 2 elements into a setup, but then has been missing in action.

QldKev

 

[Online Brewing Supplies]

I was thinking the same, cant see why it wouldnt speed things up.
The reason we used the setup as is , is because the parts and the build was very easy .
We have upgraded from a 10A to a 40Amp SSR so that side of things will not stop a larger KW element.
The HX case may need to be upgraded to metal though ??
Camo6's stainless one looks the goods.
Nev

 

[philski]

Thanks HSB, that's what I had in mind. HLT to pump1 to HEX to MLT inlet (use this config for fly sparge also). Then MLT outlet to pump2 to HEX to MLT inlet for recirc. Then MLT outlet to pump2 to kettle. Prob should post sketches to clarify but figure with this setup I only need 2 male and 2 female quick disconnects and the rest can be hard plumbed. Also means only one pump used for wort transfer, the other only water. Considering two kaixin landed for $115, the extra pump is probably cheaper than additional taps ( nice find wolfy et al). Tapped my first belgian tonight ( Duvel clone) so apologies if post is a bit confusing.

I do the same, connect HLT down to the pump, then up to the HEX and across to the MLT inlet. It just primes by gravity. It's also good to add an additional outlet ball valve at the inlet of your pump. Put a tee piece on the pump head inlet and connect the hose to one side and have a ball valve on the other. That way if you have air in the system you can open the valve into a bucket to purge. Gravity does the rest.

The morebeer sculptures out of the US have this as part of their design. I've adopted it and it works a treat

You can kind of see it in the image below.
.

 

[Online Brewing Supplies]

That is so obvious that I didnt think of it :blink:
I assume you need a hex nipple as well to join the T and valve.
Nev

 

[bradsbrew]

I recently added a tee peice at the pump inlet, that way I have the hlt and the mash tun both hooked up to the pump at the same time, I just open the ball bal valve to which ever I want running through the pump. I then have another tee peice on the exit of the hex, one to mash return and one to kettle. No more playing with hot hoses and only one pump.

 

[philski]

That is so obvious that I didnt think of it :blink:
I assume you need a hex nipple as well to join the T and valve.
Nev

indeed you do. It works a treat.