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The advantage of a three roller mill is that the gap can be wider as the malt passes through another set of roller that ensures that it is broken.
Nonicman, next time you crush some grain and have a good look how many of the grains are cracked but the husk is not seperated.. Also look carefully to see how many are not really cracked at all. With two roller mills I estimate 1% of grain is left untouched.
 
Will have a good look this weekend for those one percenters.
I've been slightly moistening the grain just prior to crush (roughly half a cup of water to the grain bill mixed thoughtly by hand) and the settings of the mill will rip it to buggery if dry. I do not doubt the efficency/better crush of a three roller (a three roller just makes sence, but wouldn't fit in the budget).
When I was looking for a mill I often read of people having to re-mill the grain and with a hand cranked mill that scared me. In my experience this is not the case if a little care is taken. However I mill slowly (by hand) and swear by the moistening method as the grain husks are not ripped apart on the same gap that would shread the grain. I have not detected any uncrushed grains since settling into the my current mill gap and the above moistening routine. I can see this weekend I'll fishing through the crushed grain looking for those 1 percenters :)

Edit: Better yet, I'll take some pics this weekend and post for feedback. I wouldn't be supprised if my idea of a good crush is not really a good crush.
 
Nonicman,
My mill is motorised and probably running a little too fast (320rpm).
Those 1% probably contribute to final "haziness" of the beers.
Unconverted starch can be a bugger.
With a two roller it is always going to be a trade-off between ripped hulls/flour and uncracked grains.
Out of curiosity, How much more is the three roller mill?
 
Only $50 US between the 2D (what I have) and the 3D. I was luckly to get a 2D past the Minister for Finance, the extra $50 what have sunk the deal. Haven't had any clarity issues (except for the no Whirlfloc experiments but that is another story).
 
Nonicman,
I do understand. Nothing like gaining another portfolio such as the minister for war and finance :eek:
 
sluggerdog said:
yep I emailed frank a few weeks ago, VERY impressed with the service. Made my mind VERY clear straight away what to do and what to buy (crankandstien - CGM-2A - $99)

He even offered some suggestions on how to save money (i.e. he sends instructions how to build hopper and use surface mail etc)

Now I just gotta get the dough!

Slugger,
I have whittled my Crankstein selection down to the CGM-3 & a 1/2" shaft. I am tired of waiting for my oldest son to go over to the USA to bring it back. I have heard that Crankenstein are able to ship three mills by surface mail for the same rate as one.
If this is correct (we'd have to find out) & we could find another buyer to come in with us, would you be interested? :blink: :blink:

Edit --- maybe if the three of us could go for the air mail option?
 
nonicman said:
Better yet, I'll take some pics this weekend and post for feedback. I wouldn't be supprised if my idea of a good crush is not really a good crush.
[post="62208"][/post]​
N man - don't get too hung up on what others think is a "good crush". If you are making good beer and know the signs too look for that could result from milling faults then you can fine tune.

For example, I can close the gap on my mill another 0.15 mm and increase my efficiency to over 90%. Even then I don't get stuck sparges but everything just slows down and I would rather have a shorter brew day than stellar efficiency. How it works for you is influenced by your mash/sparge techniques and equipment.
 
Tidalpete said:
sluggerdog said:
yep I emailed frank a few weeks ago, VERY impressed with the service. Made my mind VERY clear straight away what to do and what to buy (crankandstien - CGM-2A - $99)

He even offered some suggestions on how to save money (i.e. he sends instructions how to build hopper and use surface mail etc)

Now I just gotta get the dough!

Slugger,
I have whittled my Crankstein selection down to the CGM-3 & a 1/2" shaft. I am tired of waiting for my oldest son to go over to the USA to bring it back. I have heard that Crankenstein are able to ship three mills by surface mail for the same rate as one.
If this is correct (we'd have to find out) & we could find another buyer to come in with us, would you be interested? :blink: :blink:

Edit --- maybe if the three of us could go for the air mail option?
[post="62239"][/post]​



Sounds good to me...
 
Darren said:
Nonicman,
My mill is motorised and probably running a little too fast (320rpm).
Those 1% probably contribute to final "haziness" of the beers.
Unconverted starch can be a bugger.
With a two roller it is always going to be a trade-off between ripped hulls/flour and uncracked grains.
Out of curiosity, How much more is the three roller mill?

Darren,
As you can see from from my earlier post, I am aiming for the CGM-3. It takes a little more fiddling around to set the gap you want, but in MHO is value for money at US$129. I can't wait. :D :D
 
sosman said:
N man - don't get too hung up on what others think is a "good crush". If you are making good beer and know the signs too look for that could result from milling faults then you can fine tune.

For example, I can close the gap on my mill another 0.15 mm and increase my efficiency to over 90%. Even then I don't get stuck sparges but everything just slows down and I would rather have a shorter brew day than stellar efficiency. How it works for you is influenced by your mash/sparge techniques and equipment.
[post="62240"][/post]​

That's good advice, thanks Sosman.

Tidelpete, that'd be right, after I've purchased my mill, the prices drop. :(
 
I would be interested in a bulk buy if you need someone to make up the numbers and would also like airmail.
I am torn between the CMG3 and the 2 roller version.

BTW what is the difference between a detent and knob adjustment?
 
ODDBALL said:
I would be interested in a bulk buy if you need someone to make up the numbers and would also like airmail.
I am torn between the CMG3 and the 2 roller version.

BTW what is the difference between a detent and knob adjustment?

have a look at Crankenstien http://www.crankandstein.com/productsnew.htm & you'll see that a detent is a spring-loaded ball bearing that sits in a shallow recess & ensures that the setting will not accidently slip. Knob adjustment is just that. A tightened knob. The CMG-3D (with detent & gearing) at US$189 is a bit more expensive, but worth the money if it suits your budget. A three-roller mill is the way I want to go, but not if I have to sell the house. :lol: :lol:
Send Sluggerdog & myself a PM & we'll try to organise things in the near future.
 
is the 1/2" Drive Shaft necessary? Can you still use a drill without this?
 
Hi Slugger, I can't find the post at the moment, but Dicko has posted some information on shaft sizes and the reasoning for choosing one over the other. He also has posted some impressive photos (worth searching for as it is such a good job) of his mill setup. All I can add is that if you are going to hand crank, the 1/2 inch shaft will not take the crank handle that Fred supplies.
 
Thanks Nonicman, I will just go the normal with the handle, I'm done care about making it using a drill or not. Handle is sweet for me!
 
dicko said:
Bigfella,
If you can afford the bit extra go for the CGM 3D with the 1/2" drive shaft, from Crankandstein.
It comes with plans to build the hopper written in plain english and the bloke is fair dinkum to deal with. Mine was here in about 10 days from ordering, and that was at xmas time.
The 1/2" drive shaft makes it very easy to motorise if you wish and if not you can still drive it with a drill of the correct size.

There is very little "tearing" of the grain husks with a three roller mill as the first set just crack the grain and the second set of rollers perform the final crush.
The roller gap is easily adjustable with a detent controlled knob on each end of the lower roller with increments of about .004 thousands of an inch.
You could not get any better for the money! (unless of course you made one)

Generally the Crankandstein range of mills seems good value for money at the moment.

No Affiliation blah! blah!


View attachment 2368View attachment 2369View attachment 2370


Cheers
[post="55200"][/post]​

Here is the post guys,
It is on page 2 of this thread.
Cheers
 
And the photos of Dicko's mill are on page one. This would be the mill thread I didn't look in :)
 
sluggerdog said:
is the 1/2" Drive Shaft necessary? Can you still use a drill without this?
[post="62263"][/post]​
SD,
I have the standard shaft on the crankandstein and tighten a drill chuck directly onto the shaft no probs.

Roach
 
sluggerdog said:
is the 1/2" Drive Shaft necessary? Can you still use a drill without this?
[post="62263"][/post]​

Slugger,

Only being cautious. If the shaft does bend at some stage, It's almost impossible to get it running true again & a long way to send for a replacement. :) :)
 

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