Grain Mill Motor

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Coreflute is dirt cheap. It's about $8 for a 4 x 1220 x 2440mm sheet from plastic/ packaging suppliers in WA so should be cheaper over East. Great stuff, definately what my hopper will be made of when the mill is finished.
Cheers
Doug
 
Go to the wreckers and get and early XA-XF falcom wiper motor. heaps of torque, and they are great for spit motors as well.


These things I do know... :ph34r:
 
For those that have build their own hopper - should the bottom opening be the full width of the mill rollers or much smaller / narrower, concentrating the grain feed into the centre of the rollers?
Cheers
nt
:beer:
 
I have just put my new mill motor on the marga and gave it a test drive today, nice slow crush 20 minutes for 4 kilo of grain. The motor is from this place Oatley electronics and is a motor and gear box out of a coin dispenser :blink: . The motor operates at 22volt (I have a benchtop power supply) and does about 110 rpm with a 1.5 amp draw under load.

Price was a massive $12.00 plus $9.00 freight to Qld. These would be great as a stirrer for a HLT or mash tun because you can reduce the voltage to reduce the RPM.
Mill_004.jpg

Cheers
Andrew
 
Go the Marga!! :beerbang:

Sounds like no land speed records were broken though Andrew. I routinely crush 8.5-9kg grain, so I'd be looking around 45 mins. Sounds like I would have to busy myself with other tasks in the meantime. :lol:

FWIW The wiper motor takes around the same amount of time.

Thanks for the pics Andrew. Top stuff and you're right, they look like they'd make great HLT stirrers. :)

Warren -
 
Looks good Andrew and now looks even better after sitting in front of my Marga with drill in hand ;) doing a crush, I am getting a new hopper made so a motor is next.
 
I have just put my new mill motor on the marga and gave it a test drive today, nice slow crush 20 minutes for 4 kilo of grain. The motor is from this place Oatley electronics and is a motor and gear box out of a coin dispenser :blink: . The motor operates at 22volt (I have a benchtop power supply) and does about 110 rpm with a 1.5 amp draw under load.

Price was a massive $12.00 plus $9.00 freight to Qld. These would be great as a stirrer for a HLT or mash tun because you can reduce the voltage to reduce the RPM.
View attachment 7779

Cheers
Andrew
I'm experimenting with one of those too Andrew for my continuous hopping machine.

Doc
 
Do you think the motor was dodge ? or just not up to the task ?
Wouldn't have thought a 1.5amp draw would have indicated it was working hard :huh:
 
I would say that it didn't have enough torque. The amps stayed at around 1-2 amp but the motor heated up quite a lot on the last crush.

Cheers
Andrew
 
Maybe just too slow for it, too much slip generated ?
Doesn't much matter now though I guess :(
 
UPDATE
WARNING
Do not use this motor for Milling.
After 3 crushes the motor has burnt out, but I am sure it would be great for a stirrer or Docs continuous hopper.
Don't want anyone to waste their money, oh well it only cost me $12.00 :lol: .

Cheers
Andrew

I got mine from oatley as well but went to a 300 watt one that come compleate with a warning that it is not to be used on bikes and scooters as it exceedes the Australian limit of 200 watts. The highest currant draw I have measured is about 12A but theraetical is about 16A. I also use one of there dc speed controllers and a gear and sprocket to reduce the speed. Crushes our ten kilo batches in about 3-5min.

Derrick

Edit removed quote pics
 
I find this works very well; as we are crushing a fair bit of grain my first criterion was that it be reliable.
It cost about $100 and required some creative surgery but hasnt missed a beat over a couple of tons of malt.

View attachment 8040
MHB
 
I find this works very well; as we are crushing a fair bit of grain my first criterion was that it be reliable.
It cost about $100 and required some creative surgery but hasnt missed a beat over a couple of tons of malt.

View attachment 8040
MHB

Can you give a little more detail MHB, what is the motor and where did you get it from?
Thanks
Andrew
 
For those that have build their own hopper - should the bottom opening be the full width of the mill rollers or much smaller / narrower, concentrating the grain feed into the centre of the rollers?
Cheers
nt
:beer:

Someone has referred to my plastic hopper (with brewmunchkin!) I made the opening in the bottom a full width slot. I havent had much chance to follow AHB much lately but will get the camera out and post some piccies of my hopper if you would like.

Cheers :beer:
 
Has anyone thought of running their 12v windscreen wiper motor at 24v or more? I am going to give it a go this weekend and see what sort current it pulls and how much heat is produced. I plan to run the motor with just the mill (no grain) until I get 200rpm and then load it up with grain and see what the current draw is.

Below is a good explanation of how a 12v motor will react to 24v and how to monitor it for signs for pending failure. Not my words and if you are not able to monitor current draw then I wouldn't do it. a bit of stuff on motor controllers that isn't really applicable, but I left it in anyway.

K


12v Motors on 24v

Motors are specified to run at a stated rpm at a particular applied voltage with a specified loading. The specified loading is usually that at which the motor takes its maximum continuous current. If you run the motor under a lighter load than this 'name plate rating' its current consumption will reduce and its speed will increase slightly. If you increase the load, then the motor's current consumption will increase and its speed will reduce. Obviously you are now exceeding the motor's continuous rating so it will start to get hotter than it should. The greater the overload, the quicker the motor will heat so there is a time limit on such an overload. However it is usually safe to run a motor at a 300%-400% over current for, perhaps, a minute - although this will vary from motor to motor.

If you run a 12v motor from 24v its current drain and speed will still depend on the mechanical loading. However under no load it will now run at twice the speed at which it ran with 12v. Heating in the motor is still related to the current so you can still run it at its full rated mechanical load/current. However if the motor is badly balanced you may expect noise and vibration as the general construction may be inadequate for the faster speed. There may also be a problem with brush wear since the brushes are being asked to switch the current twice as fast. These effects are, however not very likely and usually the speed increase is quite OK.

There is one caveat on this. The motor is an inductive device and the commutator and brushes are a mechanical, switch. Such a mechanical switching system will have a limit on the maximum rate at which is can work and if this is approached, the commutation breaks down. Exactly what the limits are, I would not like to say but one effect o(noise) - and extreme noise can, on occasion, cause a controller to fail. The effect is quite rare - but beware of excessive over-revving.

However, limits on motor speed are not simply bearing quality. If you rev a motor hard enough - centrifugal force will take over and the rotor will fly to pieces. Also brush and commutator design is important. Depending on the design these will have a maximum switching rate and operating above this speed will cause tremendous brush arcing. In extreme circumstances this will generate severe noise transients which can destroy the controller. This is unlikely: we have only ever seen one customer do this: he was running 12v motors on 36v and blew two controllers! These motor limits are not things a controller manufacturer can really comment on: you need to consult the motor manufacturer.

If you overload the motor, its current rises in the same way whether the motor is running from 12v or 24v. However on stall the current from 24v could be twice that from 12v, so the motor could get four times as hot (heating is proportional to the square of the current). This however won't happen when you are using a good controller as the controller will limit the current to its designed value. Also the controller varies the voltage on the motor so you are probably not going to use the motor at full voltage in any case.

Another consideration is that, if you put too much current through a permanent magnet motor, it is possible to slightly demagnetise the magnets. This is cumulative: the motor's performance will drop slightly each time you do it. However, for battery motors, is is probably fairly safe to assume that, at the rated voltage, the current drawn when the motor is stalled will not reach this demagnetisation level. If you were to run a 12v motor off a 24v battery the stall current could then be excessive if it weren't limited by the controller.

Therefore, provided you chose a controller suitable for the motor you use, you can usually run a motor 12v motor from a 24v battery with no effect except that full speed is doubled.
 
Sorry made a complete mess of trying to put the picks in the right places

Take two

The mill is a Phil Mill 2 from G&G
View attachment 8200
I had a cabinet made from melamine, this is on casters so I can move it around, the door lets me close the noise and the dust in (well most of it) and takes a 25L bucket.
View attachment 8202
The hopper is gal and when full all the grist will fit into the bucket.
View attachment 8203
The drive is a cheep 5 speed drill press so it is doing around 350 RPM at the lowest speed.
View attachment 8204
Just finished cracking some roast malt so it needs a clean
View attachment 8205
MHB
 
Just to add to MHB's post.

As a regular customer and haivn about 20 all grain brews under my belt, I can say that the "machine" that MHB has is quite an excellent machine. Most of my mashes have come out at over 80%: It is said that a good efficiency is the result of a good crush!

cheers

Steve
 

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