wide eyed and legless
Well-Known Member
I think he's a new starter. Go easy on him.Why on earth would you go to 30 PSI? Have you been brewing long?
I think he's a new starter. Go easy on him.Why on earth would you go to 30 PSI? Have you been brewing long?
I was not left with a lot of beer. I was left with a lot of trub because I leave essentially none in the kettle.Good to see some constructive conversation on this thread, this is what it should be all about, well played Rodney, though you are left with quite a lot of trub and beer in the fermenter you are willing to share the downside.
That's the magic word FORUM a place for discussion and exchange of ideas, but it seems that if the ideas do not represent a favourable view of Keg Land products then anyone making them are a Keg King employee. As posted earlier no constructive criticism or debate allowedFor **** sake just keep it on topic, keg king guys arguing with home brewers again after reading the last 2 pages the stale taste left in my mouth from the keg king employees has made sure I will not purchase anything from them again, It's deadset less than childish! I returned to this forum after a few years away due to this bullshit hoping it would have improved not gotten worse.
I sorta think you are wasting time on this thread weal no constructive criticism allowed.
That's the magic word FORUM a place for discussion and exchange of ideas, but it seems that if the ideas do not represent a favourable view of Keg Land products then anyone making them are a Keg King employee. As posted earlier no constructive criticism or debate allowed
Certainly seems apt for this thread.
I am with you there I hate vile lies, propaganda and insults, where were they?As I have repeated many times now, I am all for constructive criticism, and in the last 10 or so pages I am actually the only one who has provided any. What I am completely against is lies and propaganda, which this thread is full of. After calling people out on this they have moved on to insults which is real mature.
I don't think being called a beginner is an insult, you did say you have only just started pressure fermenting. does look like a fair bit of trub in there, did you cold crash to compact the yeast and any dry hops, makes a big difference.All through the last few pages claiming you have to leave a tonne of beer behind in an all rounder. Snarky replies about me being a beginner. Easy to find.
Hey mate, congrats on coming to the darkside of pressure fermentation. Don't let anyone try and tell you it's 'no good for the yeast' (imagine that in a snarky voice).I'm making the move up from bucket brewing to brewing with a FZ I bought last year. I have a few questions which, form reading other sources, have contradicting info.
Basically, I have a FZ and want to transfer it to bottles when done. From my reading, fermenting under pressure looks like a good way to avoid waiting a few weeks for the beer to carbonate. I'm all for that. I have a CO2 bottle, a spunding valve and will use a hose with a ball valve to transfer to the bottles. I have my FZ set up in a temperature controlled fermenting fridge.
My questions are:
Long term, I'll get a corny keg to serve my beer from then graduate to all grain brewing once I have more room and pots, etc. to do the job.
- When do I put the liquid under pressure? As soon as I sprinkle the yeast on top? I've seen videos on how to use the spunding valve. The beer I'll be brewing will use around 9psi. I was thinking of leaving the spunding valve open from the start to let the yeast start the process and then close the spunding valve to my desired pressure once the fermentation has stopped.
- Cold crashing. Do I just drop the temperature of my fermentation fridge to 2 degrees for a day or so once the fermenting is done and let the carbonation do its thing then transfer?
- Dry hopping seems interesting with the FZ. I'm assuming I close the valve, remove collection jar trub, replace with collection jar with hops in it, purge with CO2 and slowly open the valve again?
Rodney this is nonsense.I was not left with a lot of beer. I was left with a lot of trub because I leave essentially none in the kettle.
I'm making the move up from bucket brewing to brewing with a FZ I bought last year. I have a few questions which, form reading other sources, have contradicting info.
Basically, I have a FZ and want to transfer it to bottles when done. From my reading, fermenting under pressure looks like a good way to avoid waiting a few weeks for the beer to carbonate. I'm all for that. I have a CO2 bottle, a spunding valve and will use a hose with a ball valve to transfer to the bottles. I have my FZ set up in a temperature controlled fermenting fridge.
My questions are:
Long term, I'll get a corny keg to serve my beer from then graduate to all grain brewing once I have more room and pots, etc. to do the job.
- When do I put the liquid under pressure? As soon as I sprinkle the yeast on top? I've seen videos on how to use the spunding valve. The beer I'll be brewing will use around 9psi. I was thinking of leaving the spunding valve open from the start to let the yeast start the process and then close the spunding valve to my desired pressure once the fermentation has stopped.
- Cold crashing. Do I just drop the temperature of my fermentation fridge to 2 degrees for a day or so once the fermenting is done and let the carbonation do its thing then transfer?
- Dry hopping seems interesting with the FZ. I'm assuming I close the valve, remove collection jar trub, replace with collection jar with hops in it, purge with CO2 and slowly open the valve again?
Hey mate, congrats on coming to the darkside of pressure fermentation. Don't let anyone try and tell you it's 'no good for the yeast' (imagine that in a snarky voice).
I don't think 9PSI is going to be enough if you intend on not carbing in the bottle naturally. Bear in mind, 9PSI at 18 odd degrees is not the same as 9PSI at 2 degrees. So you will most probably have to ferment near the edge of pressure. Otherwise, ferment under normal pressure, cold crash, then put the gas on for a week to carb in the fermenter at 10ish PSI and THEN bottle.
Also consider counter pressure bottle fillers (even a home jobbie with a bung and some tube) to ensure you keep carbonation!
Ok, so in relation to:
1. I apply pressure as soon as I put the yeast in. This way I can set my spunding valve to the right pressure straight away, otherwise I forget. You could argue that this reduces the oxygen saturation in the fermenter however you should have properly oxygenated the wort itself, so yeah.
If you're not going to pre pressurise, I suggest leaving your spunder set so each time it's pre set. It can be a bit fiddley to get right.
2. Cold crashing should be 24 hours ONCE it hits 2 degrees (in my opinion) so I would allow 2 days for it. Just my opinion.
3. Can't comment on using the bottle as I dryhop using a snub nose, however give the hopsock with magnet a go. I think it's easier, neater and completely oxygen free!
What I do to dry hop is. Let the pressure out. Close the valve. Remove the collection bottle. Clean bottle and the bottom of the valve. Add hops. Re-attach. Flush with c02. Pressurises the collection bottle to about 15psi. Then open the valve as fast as you can.
In terms of filling bottles from the fermenter your best bet is using a bottling gun that you can flush the bottle with c02 first to minimise oxidation. If that’s out of the budget at the moment try a bottling wand or something so you can fill from the bottom of the bottle. Then you want have a little bit of foam on the top that overflows a little. Put the cap on straight away so that all the oxygen is pushed out. Same method applies if you are using a bottling gun.
If I am reading your post right, things seem to go pear shaped after, Brew as normal.Because my brew seemed to screw up, I didn't want to waste the hops so I just skipped that step. I got myself a bottling gun which I'll test out today to make sure I use it right on my next brew.
I also got myself a carb stone. Seems as though I forgot about that piece of equipment. For my next brew, probably next weekend, I'll be doing the following:
Have I missed anything there or done something wrong? Any tips are greatly appreciated.
- Brew as normal
- Attach carb stone and hose to inner gas post of FZ
- Attach spunding valve to outside of gas post of FZ, probably set to about 12psi
- Let yeast do its thing in my fermenting fridge at the right temp
- Dry hop using frosty3's method above
- When FG is reached, turn temp controller off and just use fridge temp to bring brew temp down to roughly 2 degrees
- After 24-48 hours, remove spunding valve and replace with CO2 line to carb the brew
- About 24 hours later, use bottling gun to bottle beer and drink almost right away
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