• Please visit and share your knowledge at our sister communities:
  • If you have not, please join our official Australia and New Zealand Homebrewers Facebook Group!

    Australia and New Zealand Homebrewers Facebook Group

Dedicated Grainfather Guide, Problems and Solutions Thread

Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum

Help Support Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
kaiserben said:
I'm guessing that it not turning off immediately was because my Pd (Set heating period interval) was set as 5 (seconds)? Would that be correct? I'm thinking I should change this to the minimum of 1.
I have this occur too. I may be totally wrong, but I think that the stc just heats until it reaches desired temp (as it should) but the element takes time to cool down which causes the overshoot. My system overshoots for a small amount of time then drops below the desired temp by 1-2 degrees before the element warms up again and the temp starts climbing back to and past desired temp again. I assume this is just the temp throughout the mash equalizing and hence why I overshoot when stepping. I really hope I'm wrong and someone can tell me exactly what it is I am doing wrong though. I do not claiming to know what I'm doing, just speaking from my experience with it :p (8ish brews)
 
thank christ for that. i thought i was going to have to photograph it and learn how to post. me no good with modern technology. :ph34r:
i also thought there must have been a different design on the newer gf.
so yeah - it were the spring thingy that holds the mash cannister. it's a new game you can play when you get bored of 'throw the mash pipe out with the spent grain'.
 
wambesi said:
He's talking about the support ring (that the tabs/legs on the mash tun rest on when raised) that is removable at the top of the Grainfather body.

Looks like he removed it for cleaning and forgot to put it back in. Bugga.
yep

i'm with meathead, above....
(quote)... Note to self never clean support ring... (unquote)
 
banora brewer said:
Just wondering how you guy's have got your grainfather set up, do you have a stand? I'm not sure how to set mine up, I would like to keep it off the floor. I would like to put my urn above it so I could sparge. Any ideas would be great.
Mine's on the floor but a couple of bricks would work, I got some hose to save using a jug to sparge. I can just use the urn to regulate the sparge. I fill the urn to the sparge volume from the grainfather calculator.

NWPNvHL.jpg
 
Looks good to me. mine stays on floor without bricks - but that's an ergonomics choice, i guess. and mine is done in kitchen, so it gets moved in every time i brew. i assume your chiller has easy access to a tap from the top of the gf.
 
Anyone had any issues with the original controller?

Mine read 23 when I started heating up the mash water and only made it's way up to 26 when my thermometer is reading 66.
 
BrewedCrudeandBitter said:
Anyone had any issues with the original controller?

Mine read 23 when I started heating up the mash water and only made it's way up to 26 when my thermometer is reading 66.
I did, early days...my first one wouldn't turn the heat off regardless of the switch setting...got a replacement with no hassles, and it was playing up a bit too, which I realised was due to a loose wire inside the unit. Tightened it up and it's been fine every since.
 
Hey guys!

I ordered my Grainfather last night, it's due to be delivered next Wednesday, can't wait to get into all grain!

It's coming with a free black jack dry stout kit, has anyone brewed this kit?
 
kaiserben said:
When it reached the target mash temps it didn't turn off immediately. In fact it kept rising another ~0.2C before the element would switch off (and as a result it overshot the main mash step by 2.0C). I'm guessing that it not turning off immediately was because my Pd (Set heating period interval) was set as 5 (seconds)? Would that be correct? I'm thinking I should change this to the minimum of 1.

N3MI said:
I have this occur too. I may be totally wrong, but I think that the stc just heats until it reaches desired temp (as it should) but the element takes time to cool down which causes the overshoot.
Yeah - I understand that overshoot will occur, but what's bugging me is that it was still heating when it is 0.2 above the set point (I could tell because the light was on to tell me that the element was still on).

If I can work out how to make it switch off exactly on my set point it won't overshoot by as much as it did. It'll still overshoot, but won't be as drastic.
 
Kaiserben, 2c is overshoot is normal for me when I have the base switch set to normal and 1c overshoot when I have it set to mash. What do you have your base switch set to ?
 
Well, for the purposes of STC1000 I've got the bottom switch set to "normal", because I then program the STC1000 what percentage of time the 2000W element should be on for.

When ramping it's on 100% (after it reaches temp to hold it's set at 25%, which mimics the 250W element, as if the bottom swtich was set to "mash")

Like I said though, I understand some overshoot is going to occur, I just want the element power to cut out at the set point I've chosen, rather than a little bit after.

This might be a question for the STC1000p developer on Github.
 
No worries.

I highly recommend the STC1000, by the way. Just trying to fine tune it.
 
alimac23 said:
Hey guys!

I ordered my Grainfather last night, it's due to be delivered next Wednesday, can't wait to get into all grain!

It's coming with a free black jack dry stout kit, has anyone brewed this kit?
no. just brew it anyway. it is probably tailor made for gf. after that, just enjoy the journey :)
and welcome to the wonderful world of gf
 
alimac23 said:
Hey guys!
I ordered my Grainfather last night, it's due to be delivered next Wednesday, can't wait to get into all grain!
It's coming with a free black jack dry stout kit, has anyone brewed this kit?
Haven't brewed the blackjack dry stout but have put down two other Grainkids kits. I think they are pretty solid. The grain and hops are vacuum packed and seemed fresh enough. I am drinking the Jacked Up APA now and the hops are very good. Grain crush size is perfect for the GF, pay attention to it, as you will want to replicate the crush size for your own recipes. I'm not sure about the yeast though. The Witbier I brewed first up stalled during ferment. Probably something I did wrong, but there is no way to know how old and in what shape the MJ yeast packs are in. They are certainly not refrigerated. To play it safe I'd suggest using new yeast from your LHBS, probably get the same MJ strain without too much difficulty. Might also be worth pitching an extra sachet if the OG is >1.050, but that's a topic for another thread.

Also, if you are planning on putting down some hoppy brews a hop sock or spider is a pretty good idea. The MJ hop spider looks to be pretty good kit. I have the Keg King version and IMO the mesh is too fine. The MJ version looks better. A hop sock works and is cheap.
 
Today was the day my process was finally tuned in exactly. Made a rye IPA (which is tasting delicious, can't wait until it finishes fermenting!). Everything came together perfectly. I think I got the milling gap spot on - the grain was nicely crushed without too much flour, sparge went well - took about 20 minutes which is fine and to my surprise the OG was dead on as was the volume.

Things I did was get the water amounts just right and adjusted my mill gap. I've got a malt muncher and the gap is basically half way between 0.025 and 0.05. Before the sparge, I took the top plate off and gave the mash a good stir. Not for long but a fairly thorough stir. I measured the loss below the tap in my HLT (a Crown urn) and added the extra water to make up the loss so basically the exact amount of required sparge water went in. I did a 90 minute mash - that was a 75 minute mash at 66c and a 15 minute mash out.

I'll be doing exactly the same thing next brew day and see if I can repeat.
 
Does the Grainfather come with the cleaner in the box? If not I'll have to run out and get some to do the initial clean.
 
alimac23 said:
Does the Grainfather come with the cleaner in the box? If not I'll have to run out and get some to do the initial clean.
It should have, a little bottle anyway. But lots of alternatives, it's just stainless steel. Got any napisan or other sodium percarbonate?
 
carniebrew said:
It should have, a little bottle anyway. But lots of alternatives, it's just stainless steel. Got any napisan or other sodium percarbonate?
I haven't but I can run out and get some, will PBW be ok for the cleaning cycles?
 
Coldspace said:
I double batch always with Grainfather , same time but get 2 cubes.
I start with 23 ltrs, at strike temp then leave on mash low heat setting while stirring in,then slowly mash in my 8.5 to 9 kgs max of grains, slow and steady stir and stab with paddle up and down like mixing up concrete.
Usually once I've stirred in about 7 kgs of grain, I swing the top pipe over the top of the grain bed, start pump, and pump approx 2 -3 ltrs of water ontop.
This then makes it much easier to mash the final 2 kgs in.
I usually then mash for 75 mins and do 20 min mash out at 78. This helps with sparging.
Then, I just keep sparging till I see it dripped upto the 30 ltr mark.
I then place the malt pipe into an old esky and sparge it with another 6 ltrs of water and just let the last goodness run out into esky while I boil. You can take top plate of, give the grain a stir and sparge with final water, I find I get the last sugars totally out. Then Usually about 7 to 8 ltrs trickles out into esky which works out perfect for top ups and keeps efficiency up. Sit the malt pipe ontop of a Tupperware container etc to keep it off the floor of esky or bucket to catch second sparge runnings.
I then use this final runnings to top up the boil while doing my additions,
Just top up slowly so the boil is not killed, or I have an immersion heater from my previous brewing days which is use to ramp up the temps in between strike and boils to save time.
When my boil is done, I top right to top , about 10mm from lip with runnings or boiled water .
I then wait for the temp to drop to about 90-92 degrees, then pump straight into 2 x 15 ltr cubes that I saved from fresh wort kits, or you can buy 15 ltr containers.
The full double batch Grainfather fills 2 of these perfectly to the top.
Seal, and leave, I also add my hop additions I would normally use at sub 15 mark into little hop socks straight into the cubes.
What I have now is an over gravity for style 15 ltr cube, actually more like 16 lts.
When time to ferment, I dump into fermenter and top up to 21 ltrs.
I usually get OG of 1.046 to 1.048 which is plenty for me, and I get 2 x 19 ltr kegs from one cook up.
Last sat, while doing yard work etc, I got 2 double batches , so 4 cubes of a nice pilsener and pale ale , and allowing for my immersion heater to save time and everything took about 7 hrs.start to cleaned and packed up. Also managed to mow yard and take kids to shops in between mash times to keep SWMBO happy. Lol
Espescially using no chill, saves heaps of water and about 30 mins per Cook up. It's a no brainer.
Unless doing a high grav brew, double batch all the way.
I've done about 25-30 double batches now, and works a treat.
Hope this helps.
Tried this method yesterday with the Rogers clone so not a large grain bill 6.5kg.
40 litres of water 23 strike 17 sparge
hit all my numbers and it does work a treat.

Observations

When adding water at the top as mash gets thicker take tubing off to make it easier
Can be fiddly topping up boil with running shoes so as not to kill boil but still better than brewing 2 seperate batches
I hopped at 175% of single batch quantities
Watch the hot break
Have a boiled kettle on stand by to top up to 30 if not enough runnings
Looking fwd to trying with a larger grain bill say a DSGA
 
meathead said:
Tried this method yesterday with the Rogers clone so not a large grain bill 6.5kg.
40 litres of water 23 strike 17 sparge
hit all my numbers and it does work a treat.
Observations
When adding water at the top as mash gets thicker take tubing off to make it easier
Can be fiddly topping up boil with running shoes so as not to kill boil but still better than brewing 2 seperate batches
I hopped at 175% of single batch quantities
Watch the hot break
Have a boiled kettle on stand by to top up to 30 if not enough runnings
Looking fwd to trying with a larger grain bill say a DSGA
Good to see you giving it ago" I never single batch now not enough time. When you get up over 7 kgs you will lose like 5 to 10% efficiency but as I only brew the doubles to 21 ltrs to fill 19 lts kegs I still get a full strength beer.

Who cares about getting perfect efficiency for the time saved. A few grav points under for double batch . Only way to go unless not time poor.

I'm going to get a grain bro or 40ltr urn soon, so I can punch out 6 to 8 , 15 ltr cubes on a full sat brew day.
 
meathead said:
Tried this method yesterday with the Rogers clone so not a large grain bill 6.5kg.
40 litres of water 23 strike 17 sparge

Coldspace, roughly what amount of water do you use for your 8.5-9kg batches? Same as Meathead here?
I can see you started with 23L Mash water, but then your total sparge water is a bit vague.



meathead said:
I hopped at 175% of single batch quantities
Can you just explain exactly why you've reduced it?

I'll design a double batch recipe in BeerSmith. That program allows me to build in kettle and fermenter top ups, so can I assume it'll get my hop utilisations right and I don't need to worry?
 
I did a bit of research on the interwebs re hop qty, I believe it's to do with utilisation. Beer smith will probably do it for you
Re water I went 30l + 1l per kg of grain + 3.5l boil off. Could have done with 2 more litres for dead space
 
I start with 23 ltrs, I then sparge out till the kettle is up around 29 to 30 ltrs, approx 16 to 17 trs .
I then lift the basket into an esky to let the last juice drain off, and sparge with another 5 to 6 ltrs or so .

The info was buried in my original post but I will try and make more sense I hope,

I use this to keep the kettle topped right up during boil to the 30 ltr mark. At end of boil i throw in another 2 ltrs of boiling water. This keeps the grain father up around 32 ltrs. Approx 10 mm from top.

I then pump this into 2 x 15 ltr cubes I have from FWK. Usually around 16 ltrs fits in. That's why I want 32 ltrs at end of boil.

These 16 ltrs then go into a fermenter each and topped upto 21 ltrs.

This gives me 2 x 19 ltr kegs at around 4.8% to 5.2 % beer.

Just be mindful , 9 kg is absolute max, but most of my pale ale receipes and lagers I've designed are around 4.25 kgs , so 8.5 kgs is a lot better.

Definitely after about 6 kgs has been mashed in run the pump onto top with about 3 to 4 ltrs and then mash in last few kgs. Makes it heaps easier.

Mash for standard time, but do a 25 min mash out at 78 to make sure the liquid has had time to slowly go through the thick grain bed. Makes sparge easier.

Start sparge straight away, receipes with wheat tend to sparge a lot slower.

I find the sparge to the 30 ltr mark is usually around the same time the grain father has nearly reached boil.

Go about 20 % less on bittering additions because of no chill.

Be mindful the grain weight basket is heavy on initial lift when sodden, so if not strong have someone help of keep grain father milk crate height to make lift easier.
Don't want to slip and plunge it down into the water and splash 80 degree liquid out.

Takes about 30 mins longer than single batch because of the extended mash out and slower sparge, but you get 2 brews out of it.
And because I no- chill , I save 30 mins and heap of water, plus I think my no chill batches seem better anyway because I cube hop my pale ales.

I am presses for time a lot because of work / family commitments and because I've got too many family/mates wanting to drink my beers I run out a lot despite 3 fermenting fridges lol.
So I'm gunna get a grain bro, so in 4 to 5 hrs I'll get 4 cubes/kegs. That way I will only need to brew once a month .


Easy as, done about 50 kegs like this now. With receipes. Only way to roll.

Cheers
 
Funny enough I was planning to do a double batch with grainfather next weekend. A big thanks for all the info posted by all. It definitely will help with my upcomming brew
 
My Grainfather arrives tomorrow, looking forward to getting my first all grain brew under my belt.

I've got the black jack stout kit coming with it but I'm thinking it would be wise to brew a beer that I've brewed with extract before so I can see the differences, thinking of a smurtos golden ale as my first one.
 
alimac23 said:
My Grainfather arrives tomorrow, looking forward to getting my first all grain brew under my belt.
I've got the black jack stout kit coming with it but I'm thinking it would be wise to brew a beer that I've brewed with extract before so I can see the differences, thinking of a smurtos golden ale as my first one.
Good idea
Because there's wheat in DSGA make sure u start sparge asap as otherwise it can take quite a while
Hop socks are handy
Stir in hot break at start of boil
Good luck
 
Back
Top