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bradsbrew
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If you are worried about hop utilisation with hoppy handed beers, just use more socks.
Dedicated Grainfather Guide, Problems and Solutions Thread
- Thread starter HBHB
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tugger
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wambesi
brewer
Yeah that was found on the early ones but rectified for the main release. I haven't had a problem with mine.
HBHB
Well-Known Member
So far from the current crop, we haven't had any reported problems, but if any do arise, be certain to jump on the phone and it will be rectified as quickly and painlessly as possible.
HBHB
Well-Known Member
Keep in mind that hop oils are quite quickly washed out in hot/boiling wort. You won't need anything as big as a BIAB bag, which could reduce steam off-put by totally covering the surface of the boiling wort. Just use a hops sock and if it's looking a bit over full drop the next one in a fresh one. They can be lifted over the side and locked down by the lid when you get to chilling stage and transfer, allowing the bags to drain freely, reducing wort loss. Etc.moodgett said:
Did my first batch on the GF on Monday night. Here are some of my observations:
I love the GF. I think this will end up being the best money I've spent in a long time!
One thing I found interesting about the chiller and transfering wort to a fermenter (keep in mind I'm used to no-chilling, so I wasn't certain about exactly when to transfer): The chiller is great and works fast. I began by recircing through the chiller and watching how fast the temp dropped. Of course, the GF unit itself retains heat (and thus keeps applying some heat to the wort, while the chiller chills the wort). I wasn't really sure when to start pumping into a FV, so decided just let it chill as far as it would while recircing. (from memory it got down to 36C before it wouldn't go down any further, and it didn't really take that long to get to 36C). At that point I started pumping out into a FV (and it was most definitely coming out quite cold. The temp in the GF started climbing again quite fast, ending up at around 90C by the time barely any wort was remaining).
I used a hop sock (2 actually, each tied to a currently superfluous lid clip), and I noticed after recirculating through to sterilise the chiller that the silicon hose had a lot of hop debris collected on it. (some of the pellets I used had crumbled into powder in its packaging before I used them, so I'm gonna put it down to that).
I tasted my gravity sample and, even though I followed the same ESB recipe at ~40IBU as I'd made many times before (but now scaled up to 23L GF from 10L BIAB), it was the most bitter sample I'd tasted. Is there something I need to be taking into account? Additions were at 60min and at 10min both for BIAB no-chill and then also for GF w/ chill, I didn't move the timings around at all (and I would've though BIAB no-chill would have been more bitter because the wort stayed hotter longer, but that's not what seems to have happened here).
My volume into fermenter was ~1L less than expected (already taking into account the expected 2L loss to trub). No big deal, but just unexpected. The only explanantion I could come up with (besides human error) was that I could have been more patient waiting for the last of the sparge water to drip through (but really, I guessed that would've been only 0.01L max still in the grain bed).
My OG was spot on (something I'd always undershot during BIAB, so that was a first for me).
I love the GF. I think this will end up being the best money I've spent in a long time!
One thing I found interesting about the chiller and transfering wort to a fermenter (keep in mind I'm used to no-chilling, so I wasn't certain about exactly when to transfer): The chiller is great and works fast. I began by recircing through the chiller and watching how fast the temp dropped. Of course, the GF unit itself retains heat (and thus keeps applying some heat to the wort, while the chiller chills the wort). I wasn't really sure when to start pumping into a FV, so decided just let it chill as far as it would while recircing. (from memory it got down to 36C before it wouldn't go down any further, and it didn't really take that long to get to 36C). At that point I started pumping out into a FV (and it was most definitely coming out quite cold. The temp in the GF started climbing again quite fast, ending up at around 90C by the time barely any wort was remaining).
I used a hop sock (2 actually, each tied to a currently superfluous lid clip), and I noticed after recirculating through to sterilise the chiller that the silicon hose had a lot of hop debris collected on it. (some of the pellets I used had crumbled into powder in its packaging before I used them, so I'm gonna put it down to that).
I tasted my gravity sample and, even though I followed the same ESB recipe at ~40IBU as I'd made many times before (but now scaled up to 23L GF from 10L BIAB), it was the most bitter sample I'd tasted. Is there something I need to be taking into account? Additions were at 60min and at 10min both for BIAB no-chill and then also for GF w/ chill, I didn't move the timings around at all (and I would've though BIAB no-chill would have been more bitter because the wort stayed hotter longer, but that's not what seems to have happened here).
My volume into fermenter was ~1L less than expected (already taking into account the expected 2L loss to trub). No big deal, but just unexpected. The only explanantion I could come up with (besides human error) was that I could have been more patient waiting for the last of the sparge water to drip through (but really, I guessed that would've been only 0.01L max still in the grain bed).
My OG was spot on (something I'd always undershot during BIAB, so that was a first for me).
HBHB
Well-Known Member
kaiserben said:
Not sure I've got the full gist, so bare with me. Your previous 15L BIAB's were then made up to 23? L batches at the FV? if so, then the hops would have a lower utilisation than you're now getting, thus the higher bitterness. Hope that makes sense.
Doesn't matter about crumbly hops, it all gets broken down in the boil anyway. Fuggles this year was really loose pellets and so was Galaxy among others.
When you get to the stage of chilling and recirculating the chilled wort, it's nice to see the temperature drop, but isn't really necessary. Even at this time of year when the tap water is quite warm in most parts (ours is today 32 deg C from the cold tap) after 20 minutes of recirculating it, you can safely move the outlet hose to the FV. The temp control unit can be powered off with the red button and there won't be any heat applied via the element. The other thing you can do is just disconnect the element from underside of the control unit. sounds like it was still trying to get to mash temp. If you really need reassurance of the temperature, then switch the bottom setting to mash and the top switch to the middle setting (off). If you need more reassurance, drop the set temp to 20 Deg C so it won't switch on no matter what. There will be some radiated heat from the element for quite some time after powering off though.
Always worth while to check to ensure you're at 28L pre-boil for a 23L batch and 60minute boil. Might have been a bit more than you thought left in the grain bed.
Martin
Cheers.
Yeah - I think I ended up setting the controller to 20C (because I'd read about this happening) just to be sure, but that was right at the very end of the transfer.
Numbers for my previous BIAB (full volume) brews were always ~14L into boil, ~9L into FV, and ~7.5L into packaging. And I was using 23g @60min and 7.5g @10min (which apparently gave 42IBU according to the "BIABacus" spreadsheet I was using).
Exact numbers for latest GF brew ... I don't have in front of me but was calculated to be 40IBU by BrewMate software after changing some default settings to suit GF. (and for exact water amounts on brew day I reverted back to the formula provided by iMake for the GF.
Yeah - I think I ended up setting the controller to 20C (because I'd read about this happening) just to be sure, but that was right at the very end of the transfer.
Numbers for my previous BIAB (full volume) brews were always ~14L into boil, ~9L into FV, and ~7.5L into packaging. And I was using 23g @60min and 7.5g @10min (which apparently gave 42IBU according to the "BIABacus" spreadsheet I was using).
Exact numbers for latest GF brew ... I don't have in front of me but was calculated to be 40IBU by BrewMate software after changing some default settings to suit GF. (and for exact water amounts on brew day I reverted back to the formula provided by iMake for the GF.
matt211181
Well-Known Member
Does anyone know if there's plans to release the GF without the chiller? I already have a plate chiller and an immersion chiller, and I don't think I'd find a use for the included CFC....
postmaster
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- 19/10/14
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- Reaction score
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Hi
I am yet to receive my GF, but have done a few BIABs using both BS and BIABacus.
The attached information on which I claim no credit for was found on the internet.
I have put this profile into both Equipment and Mash profiles.
It does seem to work.
After completing the profiles and putting in 5 kg grain. BS Mash 18.60 litres Sparge 13.57 total 32.17 litres
Grainfather Calculator 17.00 litres Sparge 15.00 total 32.00 litres
The mash volume was high, but the sparge volume was low. Not sure if this will have any effect.
This was with a 60 minutes boil, so if you did a 90 minutes boil 1 litre would need to be added.
I am not sure that this will work, but the proof will be in the pudding. :unsure: opps in the brewing :beerbang:
I have also had a look at BIABacus and it could be used, but if you have a proven receipe for 23 litre why not just us the GF calculator.
There a a lot of unanswered question here, but food for thought.
Cheers
View attachment Grainfather profile - beer smith.docx
I am yet to receive my GF, but have done a few BIABs using both BS and BIABacus.
The attached information on which I claim no credit for was found on the internet.
I have put this profile into both Equipment and Mash profiles.
It does seem to work.
After completing the profiles and putting in 5 kg grain. BS Mash 18.60 litres Sparge 13.57 total 32.17 litres
Grainfather Calculator 17.00 litres Sparge 15.00 total 32.00 litres
The mash volume was high, but the sparge volume was low. Not sure if this will have any effect.
This was with a 60 minutes boil, so if you did a 90 minutes boil 1 litre would need to be added.
I am not sure that this will work, but the proof will be in the pudding. :unsure: opps in the brewing :beerbang:
I have also had a look at BIABacus and it could be used, but if you have a proven receipe for 23 litre why not just us the GF calculator.
There a a lot of unanswered question here, but food for thought.
Cheers
View attachment Grainfather profile - beer smith.docx
B
bradsbrew
Guest
[QUOTE="]
I am not sure that this will work, but the proof will be in the pudding.
Cheers
[/QUOTE]The proof of the pudding is in the eating.
I am not sure that this will work, but the proof will be in the pudding.
Cheers
[/QUOTE]The proof of the pudding is in the eating.
I rarely use a proven recipe (I like to create my own recipes).postmaster said:
But I reckon I'll just switch over to BrewMate (at the very least it gets me in the right area during recipe design and then I can switch over to the GF calculator for brew day).
Maverick
Member
- Joined
- 2/6/14
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- 7
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Hi all,
I have just competed my first brew on the Grainfather system and my initial thoughts are ... wow... this is brilliant and I can't wait to brew more. As I am very new to brewing and this forum i'll prime this post with this being my first all-grain brew and I was very nervous about the process and using a new tool.
Summary:
1. Total brew time including initial setup of the unit, testing, washing, dry-run of recipe, the actual brew, chilling, fermenting and cleanup (proper full clean as per GF manual) 10am start - 5pm finish
2. The experience was wonderful for a new brewer and the instructions in the supplied manual (together) with the Grainfather online videos leaves nothing to be desired.
3. Whilst there were lessons learned (below) on the unit and the brew process, most of these were due to my inexperience and I feel most brewers may reminisce on similar first-time experiences.
4. The hardest part was making my recipe, stumbling around for a BeerSmith2 mobile profile and working out what mash/sparge volume to use. In the end - the GF (NZ website) site has a great calculator or their math also works so just use that for now. There was a problem (below) with final volume into fermenter and i'm still working out what went wrong.
SIDE NOTE: I would like to give credit to David Moynagh over on the NZ beer forums for hist post on the BeerSmith profile - that was a world of help. This thread is located here: http://www.forum.realbeer.co.nz/forum/topics/the-grain-father?commentId=1500433%3AComment%3A210609&xg_source=activity
5. This kit is tidy - well thought out in terms of design (easy replacement parts etc) very functional, and it is forgiving. Great engineering and balance for cost/material.
6. For what its worth as a new brewer - if you have the dosh for an electric semi-auto system - this cannot be beaten for price point in comparison to the competition and rumour has it full programable controller upgrade and manufacturer beersmith2 profiles are around the corner for those who want it all. Keep in mind - the grain bill on this unit is like 9KG so you can do those BIG beers (out of the box) that some other competitor units need complimentary processes for.
NOTES ON THE PROCESS
* Mashed at 67c and the unit held this temp to 1 degree (when on mash setting with variable temp set to the smaller element)
* Ramp up times were very impressive with mashout taking 4 mins to get from 67 to 76.
* NOTE ON TEMP SETTING: if you want 66c then set it to 65 as she floats up and down a degree from time to time and the element does not click off till 1 degree over your set temp. Not an issue but thought I'd mention it.
* During the mash, at about 40 mins - lots of sporadic spurts of micro bubbles came from the pump into the top wort circulation. Not an issue but was not expected
* Sparge temp in the secondary boiler (pots etc) can be 76 as needed, but by the time you get it into a pourer, then have 10mm of water sparging above the mesh unit, I measured the temp of that 10mm of water being about 66-68 most of the time. I would make the sparge water much hotter next time to make sure 76 is getting to the grain.
* sparge time took about 35mins (due to trickling water through the grain taking time) so factor this in.
* lol... this is funny... always mix your pre-boil wort with the paddle before taking the SG reading... mine was like totally out then i realised it was probably mostly weak sparge water so i mixed it and my numbers were spot on.
* Handy trick with finding out what temp your wort chiller is pumping into your fermenter... as the pump is initially recirculating into the grainfather.. simply switch the pump off - pull out the hose and place it into your refractometer tube and then turn it on to get a small amount out. stop the pump again and test the SG and the temperature to ensure your getting what you want.
*It was 26.9 outside this day, My wort was recirculating (via chiller) down to about 80c and I was just trickling the wort out from the exit hose and the temp was about 30c into fermenter so I had to pop the full fermenter into my fridge for a few hours to get it to 22 for pitching the yeast. Next time - I'm going to recirculate the wort until the grainfather temp reads about 50 or below and i'm hoping that will get the fermenter wort down to about 22c.
* I was left with about 700ml of trub... now thats because I had to tilt the grainfather so I could get as much as I could as for some reason my fermenter was only at 18.7L and I wanted at least 20 but was aiming for 23L. My gravity readings were spot on but I think its due to my estimated pre-boil volume was 28L but I only got 25.5 so thats where I think it went wrong. Now I'm such a noob I'm not sure WHY... but I'll figure that out (and welcome any help please!) - perhaps the grains just took up more sparge water than I estimated or some loss to chilling perhaps..
* oh and please use a hop sock. My recipe had stacks of hops and the sock I got from CraftBrewer (Brisbane) was a bit ghetto to install but it worked SO well there was not much trub to worry about and the pump never got stuck.
* So the hotbreak threw me... do you put your hops in the min the boiler gets to 100 and then stir the hop break in for 10 mins while the hop sock is in your way or do you simply hit boil, stir the hot break in and then once its gone start your timer and add 60 min hops? I did the later - it added 10 mins to my boil time... now theres a bit of my 3L missing wort i should think
* a word on cleaning... do not forget to ensure there is NO wort or water left in the chiller. You'll only get a handful of uses out of it if you dont clear this out and follow the cleaning process set out by the Grainfather team. I am investigating getting a Co2 valve fitting so I can blow out any water etc.
MASH IN = 18.92L
SPARGE = 13.84L
Readings
Mash PH = 5.2 (used Calcium Sulphate for hoppyness and a PH stabaliser too. 5.2 before any additions and 5.2 all the way
Pre Boil Vol Est = 28L. The actual was 25.5L ---- this may be my missing wort?
Pre Boil Gravity Est = 1.050. The actual was 1.052
Post Boil Vol Est = 23L. The actual was 22.7L
Post Boil Gravity Est = 1.056. The actual was 1.059
Into Fermenter Vol Est = 23L. The actual was 20L ----- lost to cooling?
TRUB = 700ML ---- but I tipped the GF over a bit to get more wort out due to my fermenter vol undershoot.
THINGS I WILL GET FOR NEXT BREW
* more knowledge on where my 3L of wort went... lol
* much better clamping or holding device for the hop sock. During the chill... I wanted my 0min hops to sit there (like they would if you simply dumped them in) so I had to tie string to the grainfather external clamp (used for the spirit helmet) and let it just rest there while the glass lid and chiller did its thang.
* dedicated urn for sparge water with a sparge arm/dispenser or showerhead to make life easier so I dont get a temp drop from boiler to bucket to grain bed.
* dedicated scrubbing brush to ensure you get ALL the resin on the bottom of the grainfather or you will get a power trip if it builds up
* refractometer
* bulldog clips
* more cleaning agent (from GF manufacturer)
* investigate Co2 valve for chiller to 'blow it out' for cleaning purposes.
If you are on the edge about getting one of these bad boys - do it and if you are not keen on it sell it online while demand is high. I would caution to have very established fermenting processes (temp controlled fridges etc) and a good cleaning processes before investing money into this kit but thats really a given isnt it! Oh and Kegs are just great inventions!
I think its something that you'll get good return on if you leave the hobby etc but damn its a nice bit of kit and made the whole brewing process really fun and enjoyable. I cannot wait to brew again - this time a BIG beer... and more of a point... can't wait to taste the Beer that comes out of this batch. If the wort is anything to go by its a nice balanced beer coming in the next few weeks!
Enjoy!
I have just competed my first brew on the Grainfather system and my initial thoughts are ... wow... this is brilliant and I can't wait to brew more. As I am very new to brewing and this forum i'll prime this post with this being my first all-grain brew and I was very nervous about the process and using a new tool.
Summary:
1. Total brew time including initial setup of the unit, testing, washing, dry-run of recipe, the actual brew, chilling, fermenting and cleanup (proper full clean as per GF manual) 10am start - 5pm finish
2. The experience was wonderful for a new brewer and the instructions in the supplied manual (together) with the Grainfather online videos leaves nothing to be desired.
3. Whilst there were lessons learned (below) on the unit and the brew process, most of these were due to my inexperience and I feel most brewers may reminisce on similar first-time experiences.
4. The hardest part was making my recipe, stumbling around for a BeerSmith2 mobile profile and working out what mash/sparge volume to use. In the end - the GF (NZ website) site has a great calculator or their math also works so just use that for now. There was a problem (below) with final volume into fermenter and i'm still working out what went wrong.
SIDE NOTE: I would like to give credit to David Moynagh over on the NZ beer forums for hist post on the BeerSmith profile - that was a world of help. This thread is located here: http://www.forum.realbeer.co.nz/forum/topics/the-grain-father?commentId=1500433%3AComment%3A210609&xg_source=activity
5. This kit is tidy - well thought out in terms of design (easy replacement parts etc) very functional, and it is forgiving. Great engineering and balance for cost/material.
6. For what its worth as a new brewer - if you have the dosh for an electric semi-auto system - this cannot be beaten for price point in comparison to the competition and rumour has it full programable controller upgrade and manufacturer beersmith2 profiles are around the corner for those who want it all. Keep in mind - the grain bill on this unit is like 9KG so you can do those BIG beers (out of the box) that some other competitor units need complimentary processes for.
NOTES ON THE PROCESS
* Mashed at 67c and the unit held this temp to 1 degree (when on mash setting with variable temp set to the smaller element)
* Ramp up times were very impressive with mashout taking 4 mins to get from 67 to 76.
* NOTE ON TEMP SETTING: if you want 66c then set it to 65 as she floats up and down a degree from time to time and the element does not click off till 1 degree over your set temp. Not an issue but thought I'd mention it.
* During the mash, at about 40 mins - lots of sporadic spurts of micro bubbles came from the pump into the top wort circulation. Not an issue but was not expected
* Sparge temp in the secondary boiler (pots etc) can be 76 as needed, but by the time you get it into a pourer, then have 10mm of water sparging above the mesh unit, I measured the temp of that 10mm of water being about 66-68 most of the time. I would make the sparge water much hotter next time to make sure 76 is getting to the grain.
* sparge time took about 35mins (due to trickling water through the grain taking time) so factor this in.
* lol... this is funny... always mix your pre-boil wort with the paddle before taking the SG reading... mine was like totally out then i realised it was probably mostly weak sparge water so i mixed it and my numbers were spot on.
* Handy trick with finding out what temp your wort chiller is pumping into your fermenter... as the pump is initially recirculating into the grainfather.. simply switch the pump off - pull out the hose and place it into your refractometer tube and then turn it on to get a small amount out. stop the pump again and test the SG and the temperature to ensure your getting what you want.
*It was 26.9 outside this day, My wort was recirculating (via chiller) down to about 80c and I was just trickling the wort out from the exit hose and the temp was about 30c into fermenter so I had to pop the full fermenter into my fridge for a few hours to get it to 22 for pitching the yeast. Next time - I'm going to recirculate the wort until the grainfather temp reads about 50 or below and i'm hoping that will get the fermenter wort down to about 22c.
* I was left with about 700ml of trub... now thats because I had to tilt the grainfather so I could get as much as I could as for some reason my fermenter was only at 18.7L and I wanted at least 20 but was aiming for 23L. My gravity readings were spot on but I think its due to my estimated pre-boil volume was 28L but I only got 25.5 so thats where I think it went wrong. Now I'm such a noob I'm not sure WHY... but I'll figure that out (and welcome any help please!) - perhaps the grains just took up more sparge water than I estimated or some loss to chilling perhaps..
* oh and please use a hop sock. My recipe had stacks of hops and the sock I got from CraftBrewer (Brisbane) was a bit ghetto to install but it worked SO well there was not much trub to worry about and the pump never got stuck.
* So the hotbreak threw me... do you put your hops in the min the boiler gets to 100 and then stir the hop break in for 10 mins while the hop sock is in your way or do you simply hit boil, stir the hot break in and then once its gone start your timer and add 60 min hops? I did the later - it added 10 mins to my boil time... now theres a bit of my 3L missing wort i should think
* a word on cleaning... do not forget to ensure there is NO wort or water left in the chiller. You'll only get a handful of uses out of it if you dont clear this out and follow the cleaning process set out by the Grainfather team. I am investigating getting a Co2 valve fitting so I can blow out any water etc.
MASH IN = 18.92L
SPARGE = 13.84L
Readings
Mash PH = 5.2 (used Calcium Sulphate for hoppyness and a PH stabaliser too. 5.2 before any additions and 5.2 all the way
Pre Boil Vol Est = 28L. The actual was 25.5L ---- this may be my missing wort?
Pre Boil Gravity Est = 1.050. The actual was 1.052
Post Boil Vol Est = 23L. The actual was 22.7L
Post Boil Gravity Est = 1.056. The actual was 1.059
Into Fermenter Vol Est = 23L. The actual was 20L ----- lost to cooling?
TRUB = 700ML ---- but I tipped the GF over a bit to get more wort out due to my fermenter vol undershoot.
THINGS I WILL GET FOR NEXT BREW
* more knowledge on where my 3L of wort went... lol
* much better clamping or holding device for the hop sock. During the chill... I wanted my 0min hops to sit there (like they would if you simply dumped them in) so I had to tie string to the grainfather external clamp (used for the spirit helmet) and let it just rest there while the glass lid and chiller did its thang.
* dedicated urn for sparge water with a sparge arm/dispenser or showerhead to make life easier so I dont get a temp drop from boiler to bucket to grain bed.
* dedicated scrubbing brush to ensure you get ALL the resin on the bottom of the grainfather or you will get a power trip if it builds up
* refractometer
* bulldog clips
* more cleaning agent (from GF manufacturer)
* investigate Co2 valve for chiller to 'blow it out' for cleaning purposes.
If you are on the edge about getting one of these bad boys - do it and if you are not keen on it sell it online while demand is high. I would caution to have very established fermenting processes (temp controlled fridges etc) and a good cleaning processes before investing money into this kit but thats really a given isnt it!
Oh and Kegs are just great inventions! I think its something that you'll get good return on if you leave the hobby etc but damn its a nice bit of kit and made the whole brewing process really fun and enjoyable. I cannot wait to brew again - this time a BIG beer... and more of a point... can't wait to taste the Beer that comes out of this batch. If the wort is anything to go by its a nice balanced beer coming in the next few weeks!
Enjoy!
Put hops in after the hot break dissipates. And start your 60 min boil countdown from then. It won't evaporate much at all in that short period of time.Maverick said:* So the hotbreak threw me... do you put your hops in the min the boiler gets to 100 and then stir the hop break in for 10 mins while the hop sock is in your way or do you simply hit boil, stir the hot break in and then once its gone start your timer and add 60 min hops? I did the later - it added 10 mins to my boil time... now theres a bit of my 3L missing wort i should think
My preference (based on a hybrid of some German techniques and a lot of reading of Aussie forums) is to boil for 75 mins (so obviously hot break will have dissipated by my 60 min addition).
If you're really worried about losing wort to evap, then you could always calculate that early hop addition as a 55 min addition.
2nd brew on the GF done yesterday. Another mostly relaxing brew day. 6 hours including preparation and clean up, when doing a 60min mash and ~70min boil. I reckon that 6 hours can be cut down to 5 (see the 'obvious tips for beginners' below).
The only hassle (if you can call it that) is the need to prepare ~15L of 75C sparge water in some other vessel (meaning the GF isn't quite the amazing all-in-one system one might think it is). If you have a thermometer and a >15L container it's no big deal.
I'd never gone close to a hot break boil over in previous BIAB brewing (or even in my first GF brew), but yesterday I went sooooo close.
Some fairly obvious tips that might help beginners:
If you're in a small apartment, your shower is an easy place to rinse/wash the inner grain basket (take a scrubbing brush).
About half way through sparging, switch the GF temp controller to boil (and element controller to normal). Once you've finished sparging the temp will have a head start on its way to boiling. (could save about 20 mins of waiting for temp to reach boil).
During the post-use clean up, you're meant to use 55C water for the cleaning and rinsing. Try to guesstimate that temp as it comes out of your household tap, without overshooting that temp by too much (could save you another 25-30 mins mins of waiting for cold tap water to get to 55C twice).
The only hassle (if you can call it that) is the need to prepare ~15L of 75C sparge water in some other vessel (meaning the GF isn't quite the amazing all-in-one system one might think it is). If you have a thermometer and a >15L container it's no big deal.
I'd never gone close to a hot break boil over in previous BIAB brewing (or even in my first GF brew), but yesterday I went sooooo close.
Some fairly obvious tips that might help beginners:
If you're in a small apartment, your shower is an easy place to rinse/wash the inner grain basket (take a scrubbing brush).
About half way through sparging, switch the GF temp controller to boil (and element controller to normal). Once you've finished sparging the temp will have a head start on its way to boiling. (could save about 20 mins of waiting for temp to reach boil).
During the post-use clean up, you're meant to use 55C water for the cleaning and rinsing. Try to guesstimate that temp as it comes out of your household tap, without overshooting that temp by too much (could save you another 25-30 mins mins of waiting for cold tap water to get to 55C twice).
First time around I filled a stainless steel fermenter with boiling water before doing anything else. By the time I was ready for sparge that water was sitting at 70C (so just boiled and added a couple of kitchen kettles to the mix, then adjusted volume, then sparged through the snap tap and a funnel to direct it).
Second time around my SS fermenter was being used, so I just heated my sparge water to 75C on a stove top in a 19L Big W pot. (was a bit tricky because pot has no tap, so I scooped out 500ml at a time in a glass with a handle).
NOTE: Correction to earlier post- you need 55C with the cleaning solution, but only need cold for the rinse.
Second time around my SS fermenter was being used, so I just heated my sparge water to 75C on a stove top in a 19L Big W pot. (was a bit tricky because pot has no tap, so I scooped out 500ml at a time in a glass with a handle).
NOTE: Correction to earlier post- you need 55C with the cleaning solution, but only need cold for the rinse.
acarey
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Has anyone tried deviating from the grainfather strike and sparge water calculations? I've done one brew and it called for 14 litres of sparge water. This was painful.
So does anyone see any issues with using a greater amount of strike water so the sparge doesn't need to be so big? I'm not doing another brew for a week or so and would like to get others thoughts.
So does anyone see any issues with using a greater amount of strike water so the sparge doesn't need to be so big? I'm not doing another brew for a week or so and would like to get others thoughts.
