Coopers Aussie Pale

[theredone]

one of the best beers i have made was Coops aus pale ale with BE #2(EDIT: kit yeast), so ive just gone about making it again with a bit more oomph

same base recipe with an extra .5 LDM and .5 dex. (EDIT: recultured US05) bought some galexy to try as well but given they are 13.8% ive only done a light schedule:
5g @60
10g @10
10g @5

this brings me to, in my opinion, a nice 31.5ibu(in IANHS spreadsheat). QUESTION: with the remaining 25g of galexy i have... should i dry hop after 4 days? or would that be way too fruity for a pale ale? nver tried dry hopping so im keen to give it a go.

one question though. when punching these figures into ianhs spreadsheat it comes up as 5.7% for the bottle but going to the brewcraft calculator it says 6.6% http://www.brewcraft.com.au/wa.asp?idWebPa...p;idDetails=172 any thoughts?

well im just about ready to go put the 10min adition in so ill report back with taisting notes. house smells great though

 

[bluejed]

one of the best beers i have made was Coops aus pale ale with BE #2(EDIT: kit yeast), so ive just gone about making it again with a bit more oomph

same base recipe with an extra .5 LDM and .5 dex. (EDIT: recultured US05) bought some galexy to try as well but given they are 13.8% ive only done a light schedule:
5g @60
10g @10
10g @5

this brings me to, in my opinion, a nice 31.5ibu(in IANHS spreadsheat). QUESTION: with the remaining 25g of galexy i have... should i dry hop after 4 days? or would that be way too fruity for a pale ale? nver tried dry hopping so im keen to give it a go.

one question though. when punching these figures into ianhs spreadsheat it comes up as 5.7% for the bottle but going to the brewcraft calculator it says 6.6% http://www.brewcraft.com.au/wa.asp?idWebPa...p;idDetails=172 any thoughts?

well im just about ready to go put the 10min adition in so ill report back with taisting notes. house smells great though

I have fiddled with coopers kits, and found that yeast is the key, I would recomend cultivating yeast from coopers bottles and using this in lieu of the kit yeast, this is where the flavour is .

there are a few previous threads on how to, its worth it

 

[theredone]

I have fiddled with coopers kits, and found that yeast is the key, I would recomend cultivating yeast from coopers bottles and using this in lieu of the kit yeast, this is where the flavour is .

there are a few previous threads on how to, its worth it

yeah i was thinking of that but not only do i not have any coopers on hand im also not realy looking for an imitation, just trying to make some nice ale

 

[enuun]

Hi,

I am not too sure about the Coopers' yeast (even from the bottle) but I think most breweries use a different yeast strain for their bottle conditioning to protect their main yeast. Thus you might not get the yeast that does the work. I have had success with using Nottingham with the Cooper kits and they taste pretty good. You might like to see if that works too. Hope your brew went well!

enuun

 

[Brewman_]

In reply to a few points.
Coopers bottle yeast. I've done it, and probably won't do it agian, but I say give it a try and see if you like it - keep in mind, what results a commercial size brewery get may not be the same as what you get at home.

ON THE GALAXY FRONT. Be very carefull with additions of this hop in the kit you are using. It's a hop that will generate lots of aroma. I use it, but I only add a dry hop addition of 6g. I find this is plenty and will add a distincy character.

Fear_n_Loath.

 

[MarkMc]

Just put a cooper pale ale down with kg brewing sugar and 400d ldme AND recultured coopers pale ale yeast.

I did a Coopers Pale ale a month or so ago with the kit yeast - its the best brew I've made so far.

 

[manticle]

Hi,

I am not too sure about the Coopers' yeast (even from the bottle) but I think most breweries use a different yeast strain for their bottle conditioning to protect their main yeast. Thus you might not get the yeast that does the work. I have had success with using Nottingham with the Cooper kits and they taste pretty good. You might like to see if that works too. Hope your brew went well!

enuun

Some maybe but a lot of bottle conditioned yeasts are openly the same strain. Coopers is one of them.

 

[theredone]

ON THE GALAXY FRONT. Be very carefull with additions of this hop in the kit you are using. It's a hop that will generate lots of aroma. I use it, but I only add a dry hop addition of 6g. I find this is plenty and will add a distincy character.

Fear_n_Loath.


[/quote]

cheers mate, your right its a bloody strong hop, had a taiste before pitching, yeah, strong. so i wont bother dry hopping any more.

has anyone got any ideas y the alc contents vary so much between spreadsheat and brewcraft site?

oh and all was going well untill i spilt about 200ml of wart on myself and kitchen bench. then to make maters better my lid musta been a little brittle as i cracked it while leaning on it(just a lil) to put the airlock in
fun fun, so i just made it into a 22 lt batch

 

[theredone]

more FANTASTIC luck. my replacement lid/airlock has a leak somewhere so i had to sanitise the one that was cracked and throw it on hoping that it still seals. was some nice activity on top so im not too worried about the 1.5seconds it went withought a lid while i swapped them over. and waddaya know the cracked one actually still seals.... nice
btw smells awsome in there

 

[theredone]

well fermentation has almost stabbleised and ive been testing the readings ive taken. the galexy has bittered it up alot but there is not a huge flavour hit, its very very subtle. so what the heck i sanitised a socket thing and through the other 20g(ish) in as dry hopping.

will update how it goes

when it finishes fermenting i will leave it for 4-5 days to clean up then cold crash for another 3-4

 

[megs80]

If your adding 30 odd IBU's to a coopers kit which starts out with about 15-20 IBU's. Its going to turn out pretty unbalanced since you've only added .5kg of DME for body.

I might have read things wrong, but it looks like you doing a boil over an hour for your hops ( whats you boil volume? just water or with dme dex?). If your spending the time doing a boil its probibly a good idea to add some spec. grains to add body and freshen up your beer. Carrahell/ carrapils maybe if your after something light.

Also for yeast, Stick to US-05. Its just too easy to use and gives good results for not much care. Plus if your doing kits yeast is not your main problem for flavour.

Cheers

 

[theredone]

boil volume was about 4l.... used 400gish of BE2

 

[megs80]

Theredone,

If your keen, Try Bringing 3 Ltrs of water to the boil, add 30g of galexy hops. Boil for 10mins. After 10 mins remove from heat add 1 ltr of cold water ( this stops isomorization of the hops). return to heat and bring to 70 degrees. Once at 70, remove from heat, add 1kg of cracked carapils grain (27 % of malt), Cover and let steep for 30mins.

While thats steeping, make up a kit with 1 pale ale can, 1kg BE2, fill to 19ltr.

After 30mins, add steeped liquid sans hops and grain to fermenter.

If temps ok, hydrate a pack of us-05 and pitch.

After a week, add finnings stir and cold crash for 3 or so days. Then bottle/ keg etc.

That will give you a beer 5% 43 IBU(tinseth) EBC 12.8 which should taste pretty fresh.

Cheers

 

[theredone]

Theredone,

If your keen, Try Bringing 3 Ltrs of water to the boil, add 30g of galexy hops. Boil for 10mins. After 10 mins remove from heat add 1 ltr of cold water ( this stops isomorization of the hops). return to heat and bring to 70 degrees. Once at 70, remove from heat, add 1kg of cracked carapils grain (27 % of malt), Cover and let steep for 30mins.

While thats steeping, make up a kit with 1 pale ale can, 1kg BE2, fill to 19ltr.

After 30mins, add steeped liquid sans hops and grain to fermenter.

If temps ok, hydrate a pack of us-05 and pitch.

After a week, add finnings stir and cold crash for 3 or so days. Then bottle/ keg etc.

That will give you a beer 5% 43 IBU(tinseth) EBC 12.8 which should taste pretty fresh.

Cheers

sounds good. ive never heard of doing this method. but isnt 1kg of crystal too much? i was told not to use much more than 200g

ill give it a go none the less

edit: and when u talk of rehydrating the yeast u just mean add to some preboiled water with a little bit of malt in it? this just gets the brew kicking a little quicker yeah?

 

[megs80]

1 kg is alot of spec malt. Carapils is the lightest of the light spec malt at 3-5 EBC and can make up 40% of the malt in light beers. 200g of say a light crystal at 110 ebc would give you quite abit of colour and add a caramel taste to the beer. Which is great for some beers, but with a light ale like coopers you should be able to drink 10 of them and not have an overly sweet flavour left in your mouth. I ran through the numbers in beersmith but, If you are concerned with the amount, half it. The carapils is just about adding freshness alittle body and helping head retention. Id rather you add too little and have to adjust with the next batch than to have 2 cases of beer you dont want to drink

The method ive suggested is a hybrid method of hopbursting/steeping, really simple. 10 mins of boiling should add some bitterness the 30mins after that lets the flavour of the hop infuse into the water, Just like making a tea. There are a few breweries in england who like this tea style method. Adding the grain at 70 should drop the temp down to around 65 which should be good to extract the sugars in the grain to give you a dryish beer with a full body.

With rehydrating, just add the yeast to some boiled water without the sugar. The little guys just need to wake up in a non stressful environment before they go to work.

 

[theredone]

ok gotcha.

one last thing. good hops to use besides galexy? ive already got a brew coming through with galexy so i wouldnt mind somthing else. cascade or chinook mabe? i know chinook is a nice bittering hops

 

[megs80]

Definately try cascade and chinook. I reckon all new brewers need to go down the hoppy track of west coast usa for alittle while. Those two hops will give a nice balance. also have a look at perle and amarillo. There has been alot of great reviews too about Riwaka (D saaz) and its awesome citrus flavour.

http://homebrewandbeer.com/forum/viewtopic...t=bizier#p94447 Check out this recipe too. It was done by Bizier in the chat.

 

[theredone]

ok cheers mate ill post up when i buy ingreadients

 

[pokerpot]

If your adding 30 odd IBU's to a coopers kit which starts out with about 15-20 IBU's. Its going to turn out pretty unbalanced since you've only added .5kg of DME for body.

I might have read things wrong, but it looks like you doing a boil over an hour for your hops ( whats you boil volume? just water or with dme dex?). If your spending the time doing a boil its probibly a good idea to add some spec. grains to add body and freshen up your beer. Carrahell/ carrapils maybe if your after something light.

Also for yeast, Stick to US-05. Its just too easy to use and gives good results for not much care. Plus if your doing kits yeast is not your main problem for flavour.

Cheers

Your advice regarding yeast is the opposite I have heard from most people on this board.

 

[megs80]

Your advice regarding yeast is the opposite I have heard from most people on this board.

It depends what you've heard about yeast on this board. US-05 is a good attenuating yeast with a clean profile. Even if you dont have temperature control for your ferment. If you stick within the temp guidelines you wont have troubles with fusels or bad esters.

Theredone is looking at brewing clean ales with a hop focus. English yeasts are too fruity in their ester profile and so is coopers yeast.

If you were refering to the way ive suggested to rehydrate yeast. refer to the fermentis website.

If ive missed something let me know. Im happy to discuss

Cheers