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Chilling the wort.

Discussion in 'Gear and Equipment' started by hooper80, 12/3/17.

 

  1. Bribie G

    Adjunct Professor

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    Posted 14/3/17
    I'll bite:
    Cold break has no adverse effects in the fermenter.

    The reason that commercial breweries dislike it is that it takes up $$$$ space in the fermenter when it sinks to the bottom.
    If anything cold break can contribute towards yeast nutrient. At a blind test at my old home brew club, the punters actually preferred the cold break beer as opposed to the one from which the cold break had been removed (from the same batch).

    cold break experiment 2.jpg
     
    Coalminer and technobabble66 like this.
  2. Matplat

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    Posted 14/3/17
    Another way to improve cooling performance is with your pre-chiller.

    Instead of running your water through a coil in an ice bath, just use the actual water in the ice bath. It removes a boundary that the cooling energy has to cross (the surface of your pre-chiller coil).

    I haven't done it yet, (as I've only just got an extra freezer to generate ice) but next brew, I will make an ice bath in a spare FV, connect the outlet to the immersion coil in the kettle, gravity fed, and run water in the top to maintain the level and keep the ice covered. Hoping to significantly reduce chilling time.... with current tap water temps it takes a good 30-40 mins to get to 30deg.
     
  3. huez

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    Posted 14/3/17
    I use a plate chiller and a pond pump in an old fermenter to pump ice water through it. I just buy a couple of bags of ice and dump it in the water as it melts, use the left over water to do a load of washing. Kettle to fermenter at pitching temp in under 10mins. I'd imagine the one you posted would just be less efficient if using the same technique, you wouldn't have to worry about clogging it though.
     
  4. Mics100

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    Posted 17/4/17
    I've been using the no chill method for a long time and wondering whether an immersion chiller might help to improve IBU accuracy. Does the no chill mean that there is greater contact time with hops, therefore my flameout hops become 20 min hops due to time wasted with whirlpool and no chill?
     
  5. Lionman

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    Posted 18/4/17
    I have recently started all grain brewing and am fast becoming a huge fan of no-chill.

    First two batches were delicious. Just polished off a 20l keg of IPA while camping and it was really nice. Bursting with hop flavour and aroma.

    Brew day is long enough without another step that takes ages and creates more cleaning.
     
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  6. Paddy Melon

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    Posted 19/11/19
    I was checking this post because I too wanted to get my wort temp down quickly. My question is can you simply put purified ice into the wort itself?
     
  7. dkril

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    Posted 19/11/19
    Yes, but you have to work out the dilution rate and boil the wort down to a much lower volume.

    I've only ever known one person who brewed that way. 8-10 litres of wort at the end of the boil, then add ice to hit pitching temperature.
     
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  8. Neil Jansen

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    Posted 19/11/19
  9. Daveykyevad

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    Posted 19/11/19
    I've had good success combining an immersion chiller and a paint stirrer attached to battery powered drill. There's lot of foam, but I'm not too concerned about hot side aeration.

    Using water straight from the tap I think I've been able to get from 90 down to about 25 degrees in less than 10 mins. Might use about 50 litres of water which can then be used in clean up.
     
  10. Paddy Melon

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    Posted 20/11/19
    Thanks dkril, I actually used the ice in my latest batch before posting the question. Then I thought about it, thus the post. Hopefully everything else I did was right. I certainly calculated the ice into the water volume so fingers crossed. I'll know in about a month.
     
  11. Paddy Melon

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    Posted 20/11/19
    While I'm on a roll, with this last batch I had my yeast starter going but the temperature sat at about 26 degrees, this was the ambient temperature because of the high hot spell we'd been having. I was using a lager yeast and pitched it at between 26 and 27 degrees then placed it in the ferment fridge dropping it to 11.5 degrees. would the higher temps in growing the yeast have affected the yeast? After two days there seems to be activity, albeit very slow, and there is a krausen ring around the fermenter. I know lager yeast is slow but just wondering if the initial temperatures would have affected it.
     
  12. dkril

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    Posted 20/11/19
    That's a good start. Hopefully you got your hopping times and rates correct too. I don't know what (if any) effect the increased gravity of the concentrated wort would have on hop utilisation.
     
  13. Coalminer

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    Posted 20/11/19
    I do all my ale starters at 26C.
    Does not have any adverse effects as you are making yeast not beer.
    You should decant the the crap off the starter and only pitch the yeast
     
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  14. thehomebrewchef

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    Posted 20/11/19
    I can get my 40lt batches down to pitching temps within ten minutes. I have a cooper immersion chiller and use a cordless power drill with a paddle attached to whirlpool the wort.
    I start slowly (the jury is still out on hot side aeration ‍♂️) once it’s below 50c (about 5 mins) I’ll speed it up to aerate the wort. Once at pitching temp, I’ll remove the chiller, and slow the paddle down to whirlpool again. By the time I’ve cleaned the chiller and paddle, all the crud is gathered in the centre and the wort is ready to transfer.
    Chilling water is diverted to soaker hoses in the garden.
     
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  15. Paddy Melon

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    Posted 20/11/19
    thanks for the replies guys, my anxiety has now been abated.
     
  16. Engibeer

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    Posted 21/11/19
    I'm planning to set up something similar but use a submersible pump to circulate ice water through the CFC, after the tap water has gotten it down as far as possible.

    I recirculate back into the kettle using a pump though.

    It's less cleaning/removes the second coil. And I always recirculate back into the kettle prior to turning the chilling water on to ensure the CFC is sterilised by boiling wort.
     

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