Carlton Draught AG recipe

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jaypes

It is, a nice!
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I have been asked by my bro-in-law for a Carlton Draught clone, anyone here have a good recipe that they can share?

I did search but most of the hits that came back were "worst beers you've ever tasted"
 
AG it's quite easy. Very hard to replicate Aussie lagers via kits or extracts, however.

Now before the usual comments of "hold a cat over the fermenter and get him to piss in it", this is a serious brewing forum - or used to be - so try this AG recipe, works ok for a Standard Aussie which should turn out about as close as you can get to CD - it's not only in the recipe it's in the procedure as well, which is somewhat different to Euro lagers.

Recipe:

Aussie Mega
Australian Lager

Recipe Specs
----------------
Batch Size (L): 24.0
Total Grain (kg): 4.900
Total Hops (g): 25.00
Original Gravity (OG): 1.050 (°P): 12.4
Final Gravity (FG): 1.011 (°P): 2.8
Alcohol by Volume (ABV): 5.12 %
Colour (SRM): 4.5 (EBC): 8.9
Bitterness (IBU): 22.0 (Average)
Brewhouse Efficiency (%): 75
Boil Time (Minutes): 90

Grain Bill
----------------
4.500 kg Pale Malt Barrett Burston (91.84%)
0.400 kg Cane Sugar (8.16%)

Hop Bill
----------------
25.0 g Pride of Ringwood Leaf (8.3% Alpha) @ 60 Minutes (Boil) (1 g/L)

Method:

Single step Infusion at 63°C for 120 Minutes.
Mashout 78°C for 20 mins
Edit: boil for 90 mins adjusting with boiling water if it's getting a bit too concentrated on your equipment. Hops in after 30 mins.
Ferment at 13°C with Wyeast 2042 - Danish Lager for five days then let it slowly rise to 19°C over four days
Lager at -1°C for ten days only.

If you can get isohop then use some of that instead of the POR - the hop flowers actually make it a bit more like a Cascade Brewery lager. If you prefer a dried yeast then use S-23 and just run the whole thing through at 18° then lager.
 
With respect Bribie I believe going with W34-70 would be the dry equivalent.
 
I agree with stakka82, 2 x packets of W34-70 is my " Carlton" dry yeast for the clones. Same fermentation method.
 
Find a horse place a glass under its pizzle. ..........await urination.......cool to a suitable temperature........drink
 
^^ As I mentioned in post #2

I haven't actually used a dry yeast in an Aussie Lager since I learned from a CUB employee that the Danish is a very similar strain. From Ross's recent post Bacchus uses S-23 in their Aussies and S-186 in others so I was going on that,
 
never used w34-70, read its a bit messy on northernbrewer - true or bs?
 
I find it chucks massive sulphur but is great for Pilseners which have a tiny bit of sulphur in the nose. With Aussies you really don't want to taste anything much apart from some grain and a little bitterness in the finish.
 
I found a low mash (63C) with 100% BB Ale malt and PoR to 20 IBUs at 60 minutes with 34/70 cracks it. That said, any lager yeast will do - the complete lack of flavour is what this beer strives for.
 
I've used 34/70 and s-23 at warmer than ideal lager temps and IIRC the S-23 was by far the more sulphury of the two.
 
The CUB tap beer I really like is Reschs Draught, it has some hop character and a tiny bit of roast barley to give it that darker gold colour. May have mentioned that last year at Woolgoolga Diggers I drank some Paulaner then straight into the bar for a few Reschs and it held its head up proudly. Sadly it's gone from most NSW pubs, squeezed out by Fat Yak, Coopers and James Squire tap contracts.
 
jaypes said:
never used w34-70, read its a bit messy on northernbrewer - true or bs?
It's extremely clean and a great yeast if handled correctly, decent pitch and keep it under 13 degrees, I always employ a d rest too.

I have used it at 15 and it totally goes to shit, also without a d-rest it throws a lot of diacetyl. Letting it get to 19 after 5 days vigorous ferment after decent pitch as bribie suggested will serve the d rest function. Benefits greatly from 1-2 weeks of lagering too, so the rest of Bribies post seems spot on, that said I have never tried to do a CUB clone.

S-23 is lower maintenance and more forgiving by I find it to be less clean (ie it HAS a flavour where 34/70 i find to be completely neutral).
 
Might try a touch of roast barley in my next CUB beer, thanks for the tip Bribe G.
 
With all due respect to Bribie, the mash sequence would more likely go in ramps of. 40/70/75 c

70c is a funny temperature, no not really. Create lots of dextrine which can form the place of using crystal malt.

Well played on the bit if RB too ...
 
I've got a good idea.
Buy a slab, rip all the labels off. get out some steel wool and scrub the bottle tops clean.
Make a shitty label and stick them on.
Give them to your brother in law.

Your welcome. :D
 
I'll try that mash schedule as suggested by ///
The low 60s then up to mashout was suggested by a member who makes the stuff but that was a few years ago.

Wouldn't the 70 be more suitable for the likes of Carlton Mid or XXXX Gold which I believe may be all malt?
 
I've been doing a 72 D mash rest for 15 Min or so for the last couple of beers,good head and lacing on a beer IHMO
 
petesbrew said:
I've got a good idea.
Buy a slab, rip all the labels off. get out some steel wool and scrub the bottle tops clean.
Make a shitty label and stick them on.
Give them to your brother in law.

Your welcome. :D
Too much hard work!
 

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