Brewtech SS fermenting vessels discussion thread

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Has anyone sized up the BB in regards to fitting into a bar fridge?

I'm sure there's a few out there like me that have a bar fridge modified which comfortably holds the plastic fermenter, though fitting the brew bucket looks a close call...
 
Natdene said:
So will this work to passivate?
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bump - anyone as I want to clean mine tonight.
 
alcoadam said:
Has anyone sized up the BB in regards to fitting into a bar fridge?

I'm sure there's a few out there like me that have a bar fridge modified which comfortably holds the plastic fermenter, though fitting the brew bucket looks a close call...
Check Bribie's post in this thread, the second one. Looks like a bar fridge to me. Fits nicely too.
 
Bribie G said:
I'd agree with your thoughts.

Say for an ale, the first lot of shyte into the cone will be trub: some hot break and the cold break. I find that the cold break tends to get "pickled" and drops out fairly soon. So you can rotate the racking arm down into the cone, run off much of the break, thus getting rid of most of that before FG, then rotate back up into the beer.

Then during fermentation over the next few days, yeast will rain down into the cone, filling it up.

However at this point, (edit: particularly if doing a lager) if you wish to collect the yeast for subsequent brews, you need to decide whether you are going collect the yeast at FG then proceed to cold crashing, or cold crash and collect the yeast at the end of lagering or cold conditioning.

If kegging straight away without saving yeast, you can just position racking arm, hopefully, above yeast cake level and go about your business then dispose of the yeast.

However if you want to harvest yeast it's probably the best time to do so, because if you leave the yeast there then crash chill, you could end up with shocked yeast and other issues.

So if cold crashing and harvesting, I'd rotate down into the yeast cake at FG before chilling, then draw off yeast for reculturing, then lager the beer.

I'd speculate that if you don't have the long racking arm then, if you have disposed of the trub earlier, then the short racking arm as supplied should only be picking up yeast. Any remaining trub would be sitting in the bottom of the cone out of the reach of the racking arm.
Ah, BribieG - thanks for your thought, but I am getting the 17 gal chronical. I will therefore have 2 removal points. I think you answered my question assuming I am getting a brew bucket.
So, the racking arm sits up fairly high and the yeast dump valve is at the very bottom.
So, if you read my question again, with that in mind, why would I dump yeast early as I can take the beer off without disturbing the yeast at all, or dump the yeast out, crash chill etc.
Just throwing up ideas - I guess after FG is reached that is the best time to harvest yeast? Maybe thats the only reason, with option to remove beer without harvesting if you like?
 
Camo6 said:


Ooh ooh, did I miss something. Whatcha doing to the lid TP?
Have drilled a hole dead centre in the lid to accommodate a home-made thermowell (half a corny dip tube). Probe should sit in the middle of a 22-litre wort.
Have also enlarged the existing hole at the edge to take a 25mm length of ss tube from a 50-litre keg which should make for better blow-off capabilities since the BB is only 26.3 litres capacity.

Natdene --- What your pic shows seems to be less than half the strength of Starsan so to be safe in regards to the Brew Bucket instructions (one ounce Starsan per gallon water --- US measurements) I'd at least double the amount per litre if you plan to immerse.

Maheel --- I'd hazard a guess that part of the reason these products are cheaper than other similar gear is because they haven't been finished off properly to cut costs. E.g. cutting compound, coolant residue, etc still needs to be cleaned off by the customer. :)

Alcoadam --- Bribie's kegerator has more room than a normal bar fridge as it's custom built to fit 3 x corny's or 1 x 50-litre keg & that's probably why his BB fits inside with room to spare.
Brew Bucket fits inside my old bar fridge but mind you I've folded the freezer compartment back to make room for a 30-litre fermenter. You might be ok height-wise as some bar fridges are slightly bigger than others.
Brew Bucket is 530mm high X 337mm dia at its widest point & approx. 255mm at the bottom because of the taper.

Hope all this helps someone?




For anyone interested, here's the Brew Bucket\Conical Preparation & Cleaning Instructions for a bit of a read.

View attachment cleaning_instructions__for_brew_bucket_and_conical.pdf
 
Bribie G said:
Yes. I washed the BB with Selly's sugar soap first, that solution ran off and I was expecting the Starsan to run off as well so I might need to fill the vessel.
This might be a dumb question - but why did you use Selleys Sugar Soap? Did you use the powder or the liquid?

In the SDS it doesn't appear to be the recommended Tri-Sodium Phosphate?

EDIT: Just read your next posts about not being sure of it doing the job - let us know how you go at Masters - I couldn't find any TSP cleaner.
 
'Diggers' brand sugar soap doesn't contain TSP either but I had it on hand in liquid form & it did the job.
Just my little contribution to (hopefully) saving the Barrier Reef. ;)
 
Selleys sugar soap is supposed to contain TSP. However I'm off to Masters shortly to see if I can get the pure stuff in the paint dept.
 
Thanks Pete, that's just the info I was looking for. I've done the same to my bar fridge. I noticed the BB gets narrower at the bottom but the specs couldn't be found.

Thanks again :)
 
Thanks Tidal Pete. Now for the next question after cleaning which one of the follow are you guys doing
1.spraying with starsan the inside/outside with the recommended 1oz/gallon
2. filling the inside (which will use a shed load of starsan) and spraying the outside
3. filling a bucket with the starsan and putting the the BB and lid in, fully immersed (which will use even more than a shed load of starsan)
 
Lot of work for a fermentor, a flash one at that :)
 
mje1980 said:
Lot of work for a fermentor, a flash one at that :)
You don't have to do it. But if you want your modest investment to last you as long as possible, it is strongly recommended.
 
I'm just kidding mate, it's not that hard and it's such a nice bit of gear I'd be doing the same :)
 
Bribie G said:
Sodium Tripolyphosphate is an alternative name for Sodium Triphosphate.
That's right but neither of those two [Na5P3O10] are Trisodium phosphate [Na3PO4], unless I'm horribly mistaken.

How'd you go at Masters? Only source for TSP that I can find in Aust is http://www.brewmart.com.au/brewmart-shop/catalogue/?detail&ItemID=309&SZIDX=0&CCODE=41200&QOH=32&CATID=227&CLN=1&pageCount=2 but i've found Challenge does one:


http://www.challengechemicals.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/Challenge-Chemicals-SDS-TSP.pdf
 
alcoadam said:
Has anyone sized up the BB in regards to fitting into a bar fridge?

I'm sure there's a few out there like me that have a bar fridge modified which comfortably holds the plastic fermenter, though fitting the brew bucket looks a close call...
I can confirm they fit in a Westinghouse bar fridge (RA-141S) with ease.
 
SnakeDoctor said:
That's right but neither of those two [Na5P3O10] are Trisodium phosphate [Na3PO4], unless I'm horribly mistaken.

How'd you go at Masters? Only source for TSP that I can find in Aust is http://www.brewmart.com.au/brewmart-shop/catalogue/?detail&ItemID=309&SZIDX=0&CCODE=41200&QOH=32&CATID=227&CLN=1&pageCount=2 but i've found Challenge does one:


http://www.challengechemicals.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/Challenge-Chemicals-SDS-TSP.pdf
Bought da good sheeyut at Bunnings, a kilo for about $14 - 99% TSP

TSP.jpg

It claims to clean out rusty washing machines as well and numerous safety warnings, so this should do the trick.

Was talking to a guy who knows all about stainless and he says it would have been passivated already and he's puzzled by why they are stressing passivation, you don't deliberately passivate your dinner knives and forks and they don't rust. Come to think of it my crown urn has been to hell and back and no sign of rust. Reckons they may have had problems in the past and probably covering their bums in case there were some rough bits / pitting on welds etc that they missed out on when they smoothed ("brushed") them out, and that as long as the metal is taken back to absolute clean surface it will passivate itself in the presence of air. Mine is perfectly smooth inside and outside although the feet welds are a bit industrial looking.

So I'll use da good sheeyut fairly concentrated, dry well and put in the sun.
 

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